Radioman Rides the World.......

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Radioman, May 19, 2011.

  1. Radioman

    Radioman Moto rider

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,322
    Location:
    HOME (at least for now)
    The Yungas is the area that Coroico is located. It is a semi tropical area it huge valleys that separate villages. It is about 180 Miles of gravel, rocky roads that go up and down from 9,000 feet to 4,000 feet. it is a 2-3 day ride depending ..... No need to rush.

    We started the day having breakfast in town. We parked in front of the Majors office :) but were asked to move ..... We did with a smile.

    [​IMG]

    Then we headed south on some beautifully scenic roads... toward Chullimani, Bolivia. the large road to the left is the "death road" bypass, the small road to left is death road.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Overlooking the valley below.

    [​IMG]

    Road was gravel, fine dust, rocky etc. Switchbacking up and down the hills and valleys.

    [​IMG]

    I think in Chullimani, Mike and Jill Loaded up on some Coca leaves, and an older couple come up to talk. The have a daughter in LA that they will be visiting soon.

    [​IMG]

    They were very friendly and kind!! It has been an interesting time with people in Bolivia. We have had about 50 /50 with people very friendly and warm and others not so nice as I will talk about a bit later on. The extremes are interesting.

    Mike and Jill with a fresh supply of coca leaves and some additives....

    [​IMG]

    The colorful local folks walking by.

    [​IMG]

    Through the paved part of town. Mikes Mapset and GPS were better at getting as onto the right roads.

    [​IMG]

    Was really hard to capture the sense of the vastness and beauty of this area. Trust me it was awesome. Some of the roads had all the exposure of the death road, which is why you read that there are many of these types of roads in Bolivia.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Beautiful

    [​IMG]

    Not for the faint of heart!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    We stopped in a small town for lunch. The best option is the Menu de dia. It was 15 Bolivianos ($2.18 USD) for Soup, Main dish of usually chicken or thin beef grilled + rice, Potato and or Banana's.

    The soups are very good, but always have a big piece of ??? as a surprise!

    [​IMG]

    Every once in a while a sign. we were shooting to ride to Cajuata to find a plac eto stay for the night.

    [​IMG]

    Down the dusty roads we ride.....

    [​IMG]

    Was really great to be riding with Mike and Jill. Mike speaks good spanish. which helps in finding directions and figuring out options. Plus it really has made this part fo my journey great sharing it with these two adventurous travelers!! Thanks you two!! :wave

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The roads just keep climbing the hills or switchbacking us to the bottom to cross over the rivers and up the other sides.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Stopping to enjoy the views!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Stopping to ask directions.... Yes carry on. The road got real rocky as it headed down in this valley. Was wondering if we are on the right "road" but it hooked back up to another road later on that seemed right.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is coca growing country. We saw lots of crops terraced up the hills, and also drying along the road.

    [​IMG]

    The roads just kept going .........

    [​IMG]

    Changing textures and road composites around each bend.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In through another town at the bottom of a hill, then back up into remote areas.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    every once in awhile we would pass a bus along these dirt roads.

    [​IMG]

    We arrived in Cajuata around 5:30. The only hostel in town was full, as there was a big festival the next day. Fortunately for Mikes spanish, the lovely manager Marta said we could stay in the large store room if we wanted for 25 Bolvianos (3.65 USD). She then found a bed for me in a shared room upstairs, while Mike and Jill stayed in storage room!

    [​IMG]

    After a long days ride, I headed to the local store for some water, Beer and snacks.

    [​IMG]

    lots of bulk pasta and grains for sale.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Mike and Jill, Sitting out from enjoying the rest.

    [​IMG]

    The local kids joined us sitting outside ....

    [​IMG]

    As there was a TV set up outside for everyone to watch. Of course the kids had questions about our bikes, travels etc. Working on my spanish, and Mike jumping in to help translate as the questions grew! Great night in a small town!

    [​IMG]

    A view down on our bikes, and kids watching TV

    [​IMG]

    In the morning our bikes were still there....

    [​IMG]

    Marta the Manager was really nice, as she let us use her shower and bathroom instead of the "rustic" ones for the other guests.

    In the morning she offered us coffee and breakfast. Fresh eggs!

    [​IMG]

    The kitchen

    [​IMG]

    Marta and another lady cooking breakfast.

    [​IMG]

    Chickens coming to check out what was going on and looking for food.

    [​IMG]

    Mike and Jill enjoying breakfast.

    [​IMG]

    Nice view out over the surrounding area.

    [​IMG]

    With our gracious host!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Turning bikes around.

    [​IMG]

    Then a ride right through the main street that was in full festival swing. Lots of funny looks riding big bikes through the cross. Thanks Jill for the photos!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then back on the road in the morning headed for Quime.

    [​IMG]

    Some nice little water crossings.

    [​IMG]

    The terrain keeps changing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Rode into another small town. Kids were playing. They looked like they were having a great time rolling old Moto tires up and down the road!

    [​IMG]

    Just another day riding the roads in The Yungas!

    [​IMG]

    We are at the top of one hill, and you can see the switchbacks on the other side of the hill. Down 3,000 feet, then up 3,000 feet!

    [​IMG]

    Kind of sandy uphills.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Really spectacular views.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    More roads cutting across the sheer rock faces.

    [​IMG]

    riding the dusty roads!

    [​IMG]

    Then we arrived to Quime. Has a nice little square.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    found a hotel in town with Parking. Single room was 100 Bolivianos ($14.60 USD)
    [​IMG]

    They had a monkey tethered to the garage door....

    [​IMG]

    It liked Jill.

    [​IMG]

    But as i approached.... Not so much!

    [​IMG]

    Tried to find internet ..... at the local Library. But no Wifi so it kept me from updating my ride report.

    [​IMG]

    Always interesting sights like this "manhole cover"

    [​IMG]

    The typical Bolivian Woman with her Bowler hat on. Not sure how they keep them on in the wind?

    [​IMG]

    and the local color selling all kinds of goods on the street.

    [​IMG]

    Including bulk eggs! None of the eggs get refrigeration at all.

    [​IMG]

    Another great day riding in the Yungas.
  2. IceCreamSoldier

    IceCreamSoldier suffering somewhere

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    494
    Location:
    "X" cramento
    Great update !! :clap
  3. Radioman

    Radioman Moto rider

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,322
    Location:
    HOME (at least for now)
    Hola Pablo! lots more to come. Finally got photos uploaded to smugmug and now trying to get updated.
  4. Parcero

    Parcero Mundial

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    580
    Location:
    Chicago physically, Colombia en mi mente.
    I am really enjoying your ride report from chilly Chicago and making some notes for my trip continuation next month. :clap

    Two questions: Where did you locate your GPS mapping (My SA Maps from Garmin don't have detail for Bolivia) and how long does Peru give on you TVIP and do they put any information about your moto in your passport?

    Ride safe, bro!
  5. InTheMuck

    InTheMuck So it goes...

    Joined:
    May 4, 2012
    Oddometer:
    416
    Location:
    Amongst the has beens & the addicts (Verona, WI)
    Amazing updates and photos! Looks like a great area and a really fun trip. That view of the switchbacks is awesome!
  6. Radioman

    Radioman Moto rider

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,322
    Location:
    HOME (at least for now)
    Hola Amigo. I am using an Open source Maps as Garmin maps suck for Peru and Bolivia. I can send them to you :)

    Peru was 90 import and I cannot tell if it is in my passport......
  7. Radioman

    Radioman Moto rider

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,322
    Location:
    HOME (at least for now)
    :wave iDave and Julie. Like many others I have always enjoyed your Ride Reports and the insights that you bring.

    Having a bit of lunch and about to write another update. Stay tuned :D
  8. Radioman

    Radioman Moto rider

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,322
    Location:
    HOME (at least for now)
    A couple random shots that I forgot. Riding the dusty roads makes you breathe lots of dust

    [​IMG]

    One section of rode before we arrived in Cajuata was down in a valley and had this amazing smell. We think it was the ripening Mangos..... But it was a great addition to the ride as all the senses were involved! And as we passed through this area it was labels Afro Bolovian as the folks that live here are black. The trucks have people hanging all over the tops of them!

    [​IMG]

    And in some places we encountered large loaded trucks that we needed to squeeze by.

    http://radioman.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Ride-the-World-3/i-N2Z2TN3/0/L/DSC01292-L.jpg
  9. Radioman

    Radioman Moto rider

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,322
    Location:
    HOME (at least for now)
    As we headed out of Quime we are at about 10,000 Feet, but going over another pass then back to the Altoplano.

    It is a beautiful mountain road that heads up the valley.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    We cross the pass at 15,501 Feet (4724 meters)

    [​IMG]

    Just before the top, Mike and Jills bike needs another adjustment. He had blown out his air filter in Quime, but it was still very dirty. His 89, transalp is in need of a new one, but they cannot be found here. He has one coming with a friend soon, but needs to make due right now.

    [​IMG]

    The scenery changes as we head over the pass.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then we make it back to the paved road that heads south through Oruro.

    [​IMG]

    We stop for Gas. Mike attracts some interesting characters. Like this guy who keeps trying to get Mike to have a beer, before he starts offering me.... Never like dealing with drunks. Fortunately he was friendly and it did not change.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    While getting gas they end of making two bills for us, wanting our names, passport number for the transaction. The one receipt is for the normal price, the second is the Gringo tax.

    [​IMG]

    We roll on down the road toward Challapata. There is some strong winds and slight rain as a big storm is just east of us. Lots of lightening .... so we decide that we will not ride on to Potosi via the pavement but will stay here and ride the "direct" route down to Uyuni in the morning chopping off 125 miles of riding.

    We found a hotel in town. The people were friendly and we parked the bikes in the restaurant below the hotel. Nothing too special but probably the best place in town

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    We walked in town looking for an internet connection and some dinner. No WiFI in the town at all, so I am off the grid again :evil

    As we walked through the town a guy in a truck slowed down, catch my eye and then flipped me off :huh It is the strangeness of Bolivia that is strongly divided. Not sure why..... but did not feel very welcoming. But has been part of my experience in Bolivia.

    With great expectations we are just 4 hours ride from Uyuni and the Salar de Uyuni. It was over a year ago, that I sat with IdahoSam in Skip and Cathy's dining room talking about riding the Salar. Cathy put "Hello Kitty" on Sam's bike with a charge to get her to the Salar in Bolivia....... When we parted in Belize, Sam transfered "hello Kitty" to my bike for the rest of the journey. I am almost here! :deal most of a year, and 12,000 miles riding to get here! :freaky Cool!
  10. Ruan

    Ruan Adventurer to be

    Joined:
    May 1, 2012
    Oddometer:
    81
    Location:
    Portugal
    Great RR. Congratulations:clap
  11. Radioman

    Radioman Moto rider

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,322
    Location:
    HOME (at least for now)
    Headed out of Challapata in the morning. We decided to ride the direct route, knowing it was a dirt and gravel road. We were told 3-4 hour for the 120 miles (and on big moto probably 3 :lol3 )

    So down the valley we go. There was a military checkpoint just outside of town.

    [​IMG]

    We stopped in a small town and had breakfast on the street. people were friendly here. As in many towns, there are lots of items for sale on the street. Fresh fruit out of the back of the truck. Pineapples, watermelons etc.

    [​IMG]

    Just a bit more pavement as we head south.

    [​IMG]

    Then the pavement ends at the sign to Uyuni. 164 Km to go.

    [​IMG]

    Hard to capture road conditions .... But it is a gravel washboard with many places of sandy covering the washboard. about 20 miles south of Challapata the sand gets worse.

    One place was really deep....... Ooops front end just dove out from under me. Had to step back and get the photo.

    Jill snaps a photo to capture the moment!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Yup its deep! Glad Mike and Jill were there to help me right the bike.

    [​IMG]

    Off we ride through some more patches of deep sand. No more get off's as I figure out how the ride through this stuff.

    [​IMG]

    The washboard gets rougher as we go. But we are committed to riding it!

    [​IMG]

    Very cool flat plains....

    [​IMG]

    it was 120 miles like this.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Always looking for a less rough line. Have to be careful of the berms and sand.

    [​IMG]

    Great views as we head south.....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Got to be careful of the sandy corners

    [​IMG]

    The rough washboards are taking a toll on my Cusco addition to the bike. He lost all his lower teeth and broke off his feet, pan flute and base. Was time to set him free! He was really banging around on the windshield.

    [​IMG]

    Left him at Mile marker 140KM. He will watch over the traffic here ! Say Hello if you ride by:deal

    [​IMG]

    We continue on riding toward Uyuni. Rattling our way .....

    [​IMG]

    finally we are close to Uyuni, and see a sign to the Salar.

    [​IMG]

    for some reason we did not really think about this being the entrance that we needed to take so we carried on the last 20 Km to the town of Uyuni. It was some of the roughest rough for the day.......

    [​IMG]

    It does not look too rough. But it certainly is.

    [​IMG]

    Almost to Uyuni!!

    [​IMG]

    Into town we go.

    [​IMG]

    We get set up in a Hostel. I opt for the nice place. Most I have spent on a room for many months, but they were the only place in town with WIFI. It was a great place but cost me $40 USD. After getting settled, we decided to fill up with gas. Tried two gas stations in town, but they said they could not sell to us. :eek1 So we went to the last one..... Big lines

    [​IMG]

    As we got in the left hand fill lane (it was way shorter) and the attendant was awesome as he waved us up to the front since we would only take a little gas..... 10-12 liters versus the tour jeeps that were loading hundreds of liters of fuel each! :clap Yea to the gas attendant. Again the contrast to being flipped off yesterday for no apparent reason.

    Hello Kitty Close to her destination!!

    [​IMG]


    Coming up next..... Salar de Uyuni!! :clap :clap
  12. Idahosam

    Idahosam Set Adrift

    Joined:
    May 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,179
    Location:
    Back in the Saddle
    That poor Kitty's been rode HARD; make sure she has a good view to set her free... she sure earned it.







    [​IMG]





    ................ :dizave :tb Oh God, I don't know if I hate you right now or just overly envious. Way to go Mark, way to go!!!!! Have a Cold one for me Mark, I'm with you in spirit. Never mind,I'll just go get one out of the fridge ...:dutch



    :moon
  13. Comrade Art

    Comrade Art Working stiff

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    669
    Location:
    Oregon
    Looking good Mark :thumb
    Thanks for the update.
  14. Ron from BC

    Ron from BC Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,453
    Location:
    Vancouver Island
    It never gets old Mark, just breathtaking......keep it coming and Ride Safe! :*sip*
  15. jmcg

    jmcg Turpinated..

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2011
    Oddometer:
    462
    Location:
    The Dandenong Ranges, Vic
    Hi Mark,

    Really enjoying your latest instalment.

    Thanks.

    JM.
  16. Parcero

    Parcero Mundial

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    580
    Location:
    Chicago physically, Colombia en mi mente.
    Gracias, amigo! I think you have mum email, but if not PM me. Mil gracias.
  17. C-Stain

    C-Stain Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    11,808
    Location:
    Canoodia
    Hey Mark!

    Was the guy flipping you off, or giving you the ADV Rider Salute?

    C.
  18. Ladybug0048

    Ladybug0048 Bug Sister

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2005
    Oddometer:
    12,399
    Location:
    Spokane Valley, WA (the dry side of the mountains)
    It's nice to see an update from you and I'm glad you are taking time to smell the flowers along the way. They are mighty pretty too. :D
  19. defib

    defib Portly Paranurse

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2011
    Oddometer:
    556
    Location:
    Winslow AZ.
    I know some KLR owners that would be " WTF that has better tread than the ones on my bike"!:lol3
    [​IMG]
  20. Radioman

    Radioman Moto rider

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,322
    Location:
    HOME (at least for now)
    It was certainly not a warm welcome :deal