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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Disco Dean, Mar 7, 2013.
No pun intended.
Did it today first heat and it came right off.
The the forks in. Careful to line them up. Put the axle in loose then adjust. Then tighten and make sure the axle spins freely.
Then put the baby on!!!
Dab of red paint for safety.
Then bleed the brakes.
Tomorrow I wire an aux plug up front. Then wheels. Woodys will be coming this week. I'll post tomorrow the fender and clearance for the 21incher. Wish we didn't have much snow but no bother I'm riding tomorrow!!!
Done. All good. But check the fender screws. The oem ones I had are smaller than the Rallymoto's. All cool unless you have to search for some short M6's on Sunday!!! Had to dig a trench through the snow to get out but made it and now for a wonderful early spring sunny day ride. Next week I slide the wheels on.
Was surprised to find that too. I had plenty of bolts the right size, but seeing as clearance is the whole point of the replacement clamp, I will try to find some with very thin screw type heads to retain the maximum clearance.
I wonder if Quirky's bike which was used for the development of the clamp has larger fender screws than ours does. I think his bike is newer.
I checked the fiche and the 2010 has the M5 like ours - so they must have put in the M6... I don't mind either as I think those are the only M5's on the bike. And, M6 is alright - but I too will have to find some nice low profile bolts.
I now have had my memory jolted and do remember Mark telling me they went up a size on them 4 bolts. Why? nope, I don't remember.
Think he likes the beefier bolts.
Could also have something to do with a few less tool changes on the mill and or longevity of the tools.
Hi guys, Im really sorry about the no bolts in the package..... It was my bad I simply forgot to put them in with the first 4 clamps that went out
We made the bolts bigger because they are simply stronger and the M6 screws are what almost every bike uses for the front mudguard.
We us a M6 x 20mm button head cap screw stainless steel.
I think that these bolts are such a big issue for me that you should give me a integrated steering dampener to make me feel better for it!!!
...seriously all good. The little oem "turd" like bolts that came off - stripped the head of one anyway as the Torx was so small... so having to get new ones regardless. Good choice on the bolts. Just hard to find them at the hardware store on Sunday.
No probs mate here you go a free steering damper!! Just see the bottom to read terms and conditions!
Photo only damper not included!!!
But at least it can give you something to work towards
Cheers mate hope you find those bolts if not let me know and I can organise something for you?
Pay attention to the fit of the ball joint into the trailing arm. When I pulled mine, the joint shaft had obviously been orbiting in the oversize hole. The non-tapered shaft was quite sloppy on my '07 GS (21" Woody, Wunderlich triple clamp), enough so that BMW offered to replace the arm, though the bike was out of warranty. When the new part arrived, it had the same sloppy fit. I solved the problem with a section of brass feeler gauge as a wrap-around shim.
The stiffer triple clamp will give you a lot more than just clearance for your 21" front. At least with the Italian Wunderlich clamp, the bike steers much sharper and is less forgiving than with the original softer lower clamp. Feels more rigid, like a race bike, and requires more of the rider, like a race bike. Fun, but like everything else, you get something and you give something up.
Interesting. My ball joint has a tapered foot and straight shaft. The shaft fits very tightly to the a-arm hole and I twisted an Allen socket tightening it to torque so I think your unit must have been loose for a while.
Either way here are the disks for the new woodsy wheels coming. Very nice units. And the ft fork top clamp bushings to make it all fresh and tighter than a.....
Interesting you had the issue with the oversize hole..... Like Dean said the bike's we have fitted to have had a hardened steel cone washer to seat into the arm. Did yours have this washer/spacer? The other thing maybe to check is the surface finish on the seat in the arm, if it is a bit rough the chatters can be pushed back down and create a tiny tiny clearance that then over turns into SLOP!!!
I have to admit it would not be the first out of tolerance parts I have seen on BMW's over the years and even a few less on KTM's but they are far worse when they do happen on the orange bikes......(frame twisted from the ktm factory to the point of 25mm miss alignment of the wheels)
I rode a 06 with the wunderlich clamp on and motard wheels a few years back and it was great!! Exactly like you say it became very responsive and sports bike like!
We wanted to make this product some time ago but hours were not on our side! But now we have an even better part that is even stronger and in my completely bias opinion looks heaps better too!
Just a quick one Dean, when you push the bushings out maybe spay some penetrating spay around them first, I have replaced quite a few of these and every now and then you get some that have completely seized in the alloy clamp from corrosion. Do it the night before, it wont hurt and it might just save a few headaches!
Also use a socket or turn up a sleeve to press them in and out from the outer casing not on the internal part as the outer casing is very thin almost just tin, it will just stretch the outer casing and give it more freeplay than the ones you pushed out!
I know you probably already all over it but on the chance you or someone else had not done those bushes before these are quite handy tips that can possibly save someone a few hand fulls of hair!!
Thanks for the notes on it. I haven't done it yet and was planning on doing it this weekend. So good to know thanks.
Next up the new skins!!! After much deliberation and soul searching I settled on the TKC80's. So have the Skouts on the oem rims and TKC's on the dirt. If I do some hard core dirt then I can get me some Moto tires.
Good notes for the bushings. They were tough. But all is well. Everything went in straight. But had to remove the top clamp which should be easy but the bolt was insane. Even with the impact driver it took a slow careful hour to do. Those damn Germans and locktite. Cleaned it out and it turned on with my fingers. Anyway now all I do is wait for the wheels to arrive.
Decided to stay with TKC80s on mine too after years of being pleased with them.
Seeing as I'm still waiting for my wheel, do you have any updates on how the front end feels with the Ralle-Moto clamp installed?
Still waiting for the wheels but have ridden with the 19x17 inch oem set.
It is cold here so I haven't pushed it yet - and of course it is just seat of the pants - but it feels great.
Overal all, tighter in the bars - that is where I really feel it. It has actually seemed to help the Scout front tire from feeling as vague. So all I can say is it really does seem to help quite a bit. Much more instand input kind of thing.
It is going to be warmer tomorrow and I plan on a good long ride along many roads I am very familiar with - so a better comparison will be in order.
So far - much improved and much tighter feeling front end. I did also replace the orbital bearings in the front triple clamp but do not really think they needed it and do not think that has contributed as much to the front end feel.
Interesting when I did replace the top clamp and the bottom clamp supported the forks completely - how much movement is in even the new clamp - I cannot imagine (as I did not test this before on the old one) how bad that would have been. It really highlights the stress here and how much the new clamp is helping.
I get my new rims next week now....
I also liked the TKC80's and did the same. IMHO in the 21" size they are crap on big heavy bikes.
Flimsy weak thing that needed 35psi minimum pressure. It's square flat profile had me looking for something with more edge grip for both tar or dirt.
Currently using MT-21's. They walk around a bit more than the TKC-80's but i can push them harder around tarmac corners and simply a better off-road tyre. It's also one of the cheaper options here in Oz.
Please do tell about the how the bike feels with the clamp.