Rally Raid Products BMW G310R / G310GS

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by ktmmitch, May 25, 2017.

  1. mtnadvpnw

    mtnadvpnw n00b

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    Thanks Jenny! I think that is how I will run when it gets installed. That rock step that Adam climbed sounded pretty good. I appreciate the feedback.
    JMo (& piglet) likes this.
  2. azrunner

    azrunner Been here awhile

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    2EFDDAA2-143A-4C73-9E03-698AB88867DB.jpeg
    I had the opportunity to try out my Rally-Raid level 2 suspension and Continental TKC80’s today on some fairly rough terrain. Overall I was very impressed. The bike actually does better on the twisties than it did with the original tires and suspension. When hitting some really harsh areas I started to experience some clunking. I don’t know whether the suspension was actually bottoming out or something else was going on. My riding partner said something about emulators possibly being in the suspension. I’m not sure what that means.
  3. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi AZ' - this 'clunk' - do you notice it when the front wheel is skipping/leaving the ground - ie. when the fork is fully extending? (rather than fully compressing)...

    It is something I've noticed over the past couple of weeks, and I feel it is simply the fact that the OEM damper rod in the GS forks (there are no 'emulators' your riding partner refers to) do not have a very substantial top-out spring - therefore, when the fork fully extends with some force (ie. the wheel is off the ground momentarily), then what you are hearing is the damper rod fully extending to it's mechanical stop.

    This is more likely a limitation of the OEM damper in the 310GS leg (being more street-derived), although ought not to be something to be unduly worried about.

    Jx
  4. azrunner

    azrunner Been here awhile

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    Truth be told, I was hanging on for dear life when I noticed the clunking sound and couldn't tell at what point in the shock absorbing cycle the sound occurred. I'll make a point of paying attention the next time I'm riding rough stuff. Going down the paved side of the mountain (which I've ridden half a dozen times on the original suspension) I was amazed how much smoother and planted the bike felt. Even if I didn't plan on off road riding, the RR L2 suspension was money well spent.
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  5. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    A little community service today...

    If anyone is interested in how easy it is to access the air-box/filter, and or remove the front bodywork of the bike, it's not... dozens of sodding bolts (although most are the same size/shape at least) to get all the bitty panels off - and you do need to remove the tank cover and grey side panels as one piece to get the air-box:

    [​IMG]

    Once the panels are off, you can remove the snorkel pretty easily - just two clips on the top and it pivots forward to access the paper filer element inside:

    [​IMG]

    The coolant bottle is much easier to access with the tank/side covers off too, although the handbook does say you can top it up with the fairing in place...

    [​IMG]


    A handy hint that some of you may wish to incorporate, is to remove the side-stand cut-out switch - that way it cannot fail at an inopportune moment (of if it does, at least you'll know which wires to join together to bypass it):

    [​IMG]
    photo. basically join these two: the black/green and yellow/blue wires - leaving the red/green wire free.

    [​IMG]
    photo. with these two wires joined together, the bike will start and run in gear, even with the side-stand switch disconnected, and with no warning light on the dash - result!


    Another thing I've incorporated this weekend, which again a number of you may wish to replicate is to wire in a USB socket to the switched Auxiliary connecters next to the headlight:

    [​IMG]

    I bought a pair of female connectors from an ebay seller in Canada that connect directly to the connectors by the side of the headlight. One was wired to my USB socket, the other powers my Garmin GPS cradle, and both are switched with the ignition, which I personally prefer.

    [​IMG]
    photo. plenty of room in the wings of the dash panel for a USB socket and/or a 12v/powerlet socket if you prefer.

    [​IMG]
    photo. plenty of space on top of the headlight for the connectors.

    Hope that helps anyone planning something similar...

    Jenny x
  6. Dillo

    Dillo Almost Awesome

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    @JMo (& piglet) , I can't find the lowering fork kit on the Rally Raid site. If my wife ends up wanting to go with the lowered shock does that pair up with the standard fork kit (with the tubes moved a bit in the triple tree)?
  7. Monterey_BS

    Monterey_BS On or Off - not sure

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    Oh, yeah, much cleaner! With the tail tidy the plate is literally the end of the bike. Way on the other side of cool for me.
    [​IMG]
    One thing I didn't notice from the fiche was the additional tie-down option in the handle. Hmmm, more to think about...
    JMo (& piglet) likes this.
  8. WoodWorks

    WoodWorks House Ape

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    Is the R&G tail light as bright/noticeable as the OEM tail light?
  9. Monterey_BS

    Monterey_BS On or Off - not sure

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    Can't speak about the stock tail, but with tail tidy you should consider getting shorter screws when you move to the R handles. I installed M8-1.25X20, but only because I'm going to fab something for additional attachment points. You could probably get away with 16mm screws, otherwise. If you use the stock screws (M8-1.25x35), they intrude into the "free" space under the seat substantially. I've stuffed all the trailing tail end wiring into the adjacent space and was concerned about chafing.
    [​IMG]
    For those of you considering replacing the rack with the handles be sure to get the R closure panel, unless you have other plans, like me. It's in a different location on the fiche, but is necessary to close in the back end of the bike to complete the look. For those of us in the US, these parts are not available stateside. Since they must come from Germany, it's generally a slow boat and better to get it all at once. Compare the above picture with similar pictures of Jenny's bike to understand the point.
    JMo (& piglet) likes this.
  10. Monterey_BS

    Monterey_BS On or Off - not sure

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    Somewhere up in the chain I think I posted a picture. Yeah, it's plenty bright and the differentiation between light and brake is good.
    JMo (& piglet) and WoodWorks like this.
  11. azrunner

    azrunner Been here awhile

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    I purchased a set of the grab bars and the tail tidy in effort to lighten things up and reduce the possibility of something breaking off in a drop. I'm hoping this setup will lend to a streamlined attachment of a Giant Loop Coyote bag. Jmo might chime in on her setup. Will Rally-Raid be making side racks to suspend panniers out from the bike? I was able to pickup a set of the grab bars, as a take off, from Ebay for $45 dollars shipped. I believe the vendor has one set left.
  12. OlafofOregon

    OlafofOregon Long timer

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    Who’s going to Overland Expo West this weekend? I’ll be there walking the show. Find me and I’ll give you a coupon code, since we’re not selling there this year.

    Friday evening, @JMo (& piglet) Jenny Morgan and Giant Loop will host an Adventure Happy Hour. She’s riding the new Rally Raid BMW G310GS, and will have photos and details about her most recent trans-continental journey. We’ll supply the beverages. Other GL world travelers, such as Lisa Morris and Jason Spafford (Two Wheeled Nomad) will also be there.

    Learn tips and tricks from accomplished long haul “go light, go fast, go far” travelers, meet some amazing people and enjoy a beverage on us!

    More details soon!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  13. azrunner

    azrunner Been here awhile

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    • I'm heading up from Tucson this Friday. I was planning on attending the Expo on Sunday. But perhaps we can make it Friday evening. Is the entrance fee the same if only attending during the evening?
    JMo (& piglet) likes this.
  14. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Looking sharp Monterey!

    One thing I'd add (and I appologise I've not had time to compile my full build-up notes/hints & tips yet), is that I noticed my dealer* had added a couple of washers between the R handles and the mounting location on the subframe, primarily as the handles are very close to the bottom edge of the GS side panels otherwise (as people are probably aware, the R and GS have different profiled side panels under the edge of their respective seats, even though the rear rack is the same on both bikes)...

    *the dealer I bought my bike from was very helpful in actually swapping over my rear rack with the parts from an R model inthe showroom, prior to my arrive, so I could get straight on with building up the bike with the Rally-Raid parts.

    For info. The R side panels have more of a cut-out around their grab handles than the GS side panels do, but then the R panels are fatter in front of the handles which would restrict the way any soft-luggage bag fits over the rear seat.

    I'd suggest the combo Monterey and I have is the best option if you want to tidy up the back of the bike - keep your GS side panels, and just add the R handles and the small black trim panel that covers the two bolts where the rack used to fit. And fit the R&G tail-tidy of course ;o)

    Jx
  15. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    I think they have different 'day ticket' prices depending on which day/s you attend. The info is/was on the Overland Expo West website as I recall.

    Looking forward to seeing you there!

    Jenny x
  16. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi AZ' - the R handles have a slot in each side that you could put a strap though to secure luggage - however, with the Coyote I use, I like the fact it can be quickly released (from my CB500X) using the fender clips, although originally they were just a little too long to fit snuggly in the slots on the 310 R handles:

    [​IMG]

    The shape/profile of the handles means the clips actually work better the other way up too (ie. pulling/tensioned from underneath), and intially I just cut the corners of the fender clips off diagonally, but ultimately trimmed the ends with a Dremel and they now fit very securely in the slots:

    [​IMG]


    With regard to side racks - you may have seen on the bikes from Australia that Amy was running a pre-production of the soft luggage side racks (similar to those Rally-Raid make for the Cb500X and KTM 690), and they will be available for the G310GS soon too.

    They ought to work well with a smaller/tapered soft pannier like Giant Loop Siskiyou (as they do on the CB500X), however, be aware that there is not a lot of depth between the top of the seat and the top of the exhaust on the GS, so you might be better off just using a larger rack-less bag like their Great Basin if you need extra capacity?

    Keep it simple, keep it light I say ;o)

    Hope that helps...

    Jx
  17. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Dillo - yes, as you surmise - at the front you only need to slide the forks through the triple clamps a little to level the bike once you've fitted the shorter/Low shock. The Level 1 fork kit will give you the same travel as before, and there is enough room to drop the front an inch or so as required.

    Jx
  18. Rich in Panama City

    Rich in Panama City n00b

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    Gearing up for Alaska then the Arctic Circle. Got the two Rally Raid tools for wheel removal but the 15mm hex plug to fit the special recessed front wheel spindle (832) is poorly machined, rounded and too small to properly fit the front wheel spindel. I tried twice to contact Rally Raid but no response. I am running out of time, is this the another way to make contact?
  19. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Rich - I'm suprised to hear that, since I know John said he'd need to machine a specific hex for the front axle, since it was not a traditional flat sided allen socket, but had curved internal faces.

    It is by no means an essential tool, it just helps to rotate/pull out the axle once you've removed the flange nut on the other end. As long as you have the other wrench (with the 6mm allen head for the pinch bolts and the 18mm? Ring for the flange nut, you can remove the front wheel as needs be. You need s 27mm ring for the rear axle nut of course - personally I use one of the MotionPro T6 combo tyre iron/ring wrenches.

    For info. Rally-Raid office hours are 9-5 Monday to Friday - that's UK/GMT time of course.

    Jx
  20. ktmmitch

    ktmmitch Long timer

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    The Hex spanner is specifically machined with radius corners as the recess in the spindle has radius as well, it may look poorly machined to your eye, but we spent some time to achieve the correct design, we specifically designed the hex to fit, and have used it extensively in the workshop and on the trail, so have no worries that it will slip.