Rally-Raid Products Honda CB500X

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by ktmmitch, Sep 22, 2014.

  1. VFR

    VFR Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the reply and info. I notice that I don't see many ABS bikes, so that was the purpose of my question. I have six bikes and none are ABS. I even de-linked the ones that were linked brake.

    I notice you just sell front fork springs. Anybody ever try putting a cartridge fork insides into one of these?? That would at least give you rebound control. I have done that on a couple that were cartridge but had no adjustment.
  2. Garde

    Garde Been here awhile

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    I have a 29-30" inseam (depends on who does the measuring) I went with the Level 2/3. I can tiptoe both sides or get the full ball of one foot down. I can flatfoot one side when in a rut at a stop line. You can bet I pay a lot more attention to the tilt of the road and putting the right foot down instead of the left.

    Really haven't had any trouble adjusting, since even stock I was frequently on toe rather than flat-footed. The right boots help (there's no lifts in my Forma Adventure Lows, but they give me an extra 1/2"-1").
  3. Newstrom48

    Newstrom48 Adventurer

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    I don't actually have the level 1 kit. I just bought the rear shock.
    Reason why I bought the shock was due to chatter of the rear when on washboard roads as well as bottoming out rear on dip/holes in the road. I used the mid weight spring as I never ride double and I'm at upper limit of the mid weight (195 lbs with gear on). When I travel, I will add about 20 lbs.
    I am extremely satisfied with the new shock. I ride the same washboard at higher speed and the shock handles it so smoothly I have trouble believing there is washboard roads any more. As well, I tested it on the same dips and holes in the road and had trouble believing the road had not been repaired. I had to ride back over it the first time I tested it just to see if it had changed.
    The original front springs have worked well so I haven't changed them. YMMV.
    Rob-Houston likes this.
  4. Bultaco206

    Bultaco206 Back-to-back motos suck

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    I may very well draw the short straw and have to man a booth there. If I do I will ride out. If Rally Raid's shipping estimates are true to form then my Level 2 kit should arrive a week to ten days prior. If all of this comes together then you'd be more than welcome to throw a leg over.
  5. Cruz

    Cruz Lost but laughing.

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    The Level 1 kit will achieve what you are after. Just let them know your weights and you should be fine. The oem suspension cannot adequately deal with one person in board at average speeds let alone two people and gear.

    Have fun out there.
    visualizerent likes this.
  6. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi VFR - the LEVEL 1 (standard travel length) kit is sold separately front and rear for those who wish to upgrade in stages or may have already upgrade one end already... but the Rally Raid fork kit is much more than just springs - it completely replaces the internal parts including valve/shims and dedicated damper rods.

    To clarify - you get:

    • billet aluminium preload adjustable caps [with lock nuts and bleed valves]

    • new [longer] linear-rate springs [that also replace the OEM plastic spacer]

    • shim-valving assembly [that it tuned to provide slow and high speed compression damping, and rebound control]

    • replacement damper rods that are machined to optimise flow through the shim valves, and provide proper sealing (compared to the drop-in 'intimintor' style shims available on the aftermarket) for our shim valve stack.

    While this set-up does not offer user-adjustability [of damping rate] in the same way as a cartridge system can, the overall real-world performance is comparable to a simple cartridge system you might find specified on a mid-priced OEM bike, and was developed in conjunction with a leading European suspension company TracTive, who also make our dedicated CB500 and KTM690 rear shocks.


    for info. We have also been trialling a 3rd party open cartridge option, but currently this is only available in standard travel length, so until we can offer a cartridge in both LEVEL 1 and [longer travel] LEVEL 2 specification, we won't be offering those for sale through the Rally Raid shop just yet.

    I'm confident that if you were to invest in the LEVEL 1 fork kit, you'll be impressed with how the front end feels and reacts compared to the OEM set-up, and would go as far as to suggest that it is probably the best $300 you can spend on the stock bike - not least when you compare our fork component specification/performance with any alternative mix-and-match products that end up costing a similar amount.

    Hope that helps...

    Jenny x
  7. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Maverick52 - nice to see you here ;o)

    As I touched on over on the main CB thread, the main problem with the stock suspension on the CB500X is that it is very basic/budget, and doesn't have a very sophisticated damping circuit (basic to say the least in the OEM rear shock, and essentially non-existent in the forks), so while the spring soaks up bumps as best it can, the action of the spring is not particularly well controlled by the damping - which is why things can feel harsh and/or unsettled over differing bumps and conditions.

    While the [standard travel length] LEVEL 1 suspension doesn't have the same range of travel as the longer LEVEL 2 set up, the damping circuits inside both shocks are essentially the same - the LEVEL 2 shock just gives you greater adjustment control over high and low speed compression damping (that is short stutter bumps vs. bigger hits), and separate rebound damping controls.

    note. Of course should you want that full adjustability in standard travel length, there is also the LEVEL 1b shock, that is essentially the standard travel length version of the LEVEL 2 shock.

    Regardless of which shock you choose, you'll find that the damping action is far more precise than the OEM unit, and once you have the shock dialled in (preload to set the initial sag, and the primarily the rebound damping rate depending on the load you are carrying), you'll find the bike feels much more stable and controlled than before on the OEM suspension.

    During development we found that the 'sweet spot' for the CB500X chassis was to have around 7" of travel front and rear, which is why our LEVEL 2 set-up is what we consider optimum for this size bike. Not only does it offer more overall [bump] travel and ground clearance, but this allows you to set up the sag/ride height so that the bike floats more in the middle of a wider range of travel, offering more compliance without the risk of reaching the limits of overall travel so quickly...

    However, we do appreciate that one of the key attractions of the CB500X in the first place was the low [standard] seat height, which is why we also offer the LEVEL 1 shock and fork kit, that essentially offers the same quality of ride, just within slightly narrower limits of overall travel.

    Hope that clarifies things!

    Jenny x
  8. KICKNBACK

    KICKNBACK Over The Bars Club

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    Seems the level 3 kits are always out of stock so people must be happy with them
    Garde and MattF44 like this.
  9. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Kicknback - yes - and this is probably a good opportunity to clarify the current situation...

    Firstly, the LEVEL 3 element is the 17/19" wheel combo, that goes with the +2" LEVEL 2 suspension kit - which can be sold and fitted separately, prior the wheels being fitted.

    Unfortunately, as you surmise, because the wheels take some time to build (the hubs need to be anodised, and then the wheels assembled by our 3rd party wheel-builder in the UK), they are often shown out of stock*, as demand means that currently the wheel kits are essentially built to order.

    *note. the web-shop defaults to '4-6 weeks' lead time whenever a product drops out of stock, although I'd add that replenishment times on in-house products are usually much quicker than that.


    Rally Raid have been taking significant steps [with investment in both people and machinery] over the past six months to reduce the lead time of the wheel builds particularly, but this has coincided with an increase in demand for the CB500X kits in general, which is why we typically still see a waiting time on the wheel kits...

    As an illustration, Rally Raid have essentially doubled their production batches on hubs now (50 rear CB hubs are due to be machined next week for example), but we are still limited by how quickly our wheel builder can ultimately assemble the wheels.

    With regard to the LEVEL 2 suspension kits (which I realise at the time of writing are also currently showing out of stock) - while these components are all manufactured in house (with the shocks built in batches by Tractive in Holland), because of the number of individual components, occasionally some [shared] items do drop out of stock... but rest assured that the team at Rally Raid are busy streamlining that process and pre-building both LEVEL 1 and LEVEL 2 suspension kits so that they will be on the shelf for immediate despatch in the near future.

    We can only thank you again for your continued support and patience.

    Jenny x
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  10. No-Fret

    No-Fret DeplorableTanker

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    DonBenito- I have about 800 miles on my RRL3 wheels and I am starting to get a weird squeeling noise from my front wheel when I hit about 30 mph. Is that similiar to what you were hearing? Thx
  11. surfsofa

    surfsofa Adventurer

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    Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks :-)
  12. surfsofa

    surfsofa Adventurer

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    I've not ridden a L1 bike, but I do have a very poor impression of the stock fork suspension. It's a progressive spring and not at all friendly if you're riding fast. I found its lack of predicability quite dangerous actually. This is probably not something you'll notice if you only use the bike in town. Switching to RR suspension (L2 in my case) made a huge improvement when riding twisty roads fast and greatly improved my enjoyment of the bike.
  13. BeanRidin'

    BeanRidin' n00b

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    Thanks Bultaco206. What booth will you be working at? I will look you up during the week. We have had many rainy days here so at least it is not saving up all the rain for the rally!
    Thanks for the insight Garde. My Toucan's have a 1.5" heal so that helps a bit. I am also pushing 210# so the suspension settles lower for me. Probably the only advantage to getting fatter!
  14. garzan

    garzan Been here awhile

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    My own biased opinion: while the new rear shock is great, and a noticeable improvement over OEM, I am FAR more impressed with the front fork guts replacement. Were I to do a bike half at a time, I'd start in the front. The difference to me is quite amazing. Thanks again to you for spearheading the project.
    Rob-Houston likes this.
  15. Bultaco206

    Bultaco206 Back-to-back motos suck

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    Let's see if this all comes together first. If so, we'll work it out via PM.
  16. Kops71

    Kops71 Adventurer

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  17. Kops71

    Kops71 Adventurer

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    Hi folks, I'm swapping over the oem bar riser with the fat bar riser, has anyone achieved this without removing the fairings to gain access to bolt connecting the riser to the triple tree?
  18. Be Gone For Good

    Be Gone For Good Been here awhile

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    Juan,

    You were one of my earliest influences when it came to recording rides and I'm glad you are back to reporting from the CB.

    I also just recently acquired the Mavic Pro to get shots for my upcoming trip from NC to SD via Chicago and Minneapolis. I look forward to experimenting so thank you again for further inspiration. Keep up the good work.
    pegote and visualizerent like this.
  19. DonBenito

    DonBenito Been here awhile

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    I mostly noticed the squealing at lower speeds. I had some intermittent squeaking/squealing right from the start, but it certainly got worse over time. My first thought was brake pad clearance issues, but that was easy enough to rule out by jacking the bike up and playing around with the brake lever while spinning the front wheel with my hand. I say playing around to highlight the fact that I am well under-qualified to perform any kind of actual diagnostic test, I'm really just goofing around and scratching my head a lot.

    I seem to remember reading that at least one other person found that their L3 wheel bearings were bad right after first mounting the wheels on the bike. I don't know if Rally Raid might have gotten a bad batch, or if there was an installation error on the part of either the wheel builder or myself, but if you've got squealing from your L3 wheels I'd certainly consider bad wheel bearings as a possibility.
  20. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Kops - there is not a lot of space around the headstock to wield tools (or even get your hands in there) without either removing the front headlight/fairing assembly (10 bolts, less than 5 mins) or at least removing the top triple clamp and flipping it over to gain access to the two bolts that hold the bar risers on.

    Remember these bolts need to be torqued up tight, and use blue thread-lock (they come preassembled from the factory when you buy the LEVEL 2 kit of course) - and so you'll need to make sure you've tightened them to spec, which might be difficult if you try to do it with limited access.

    As I always say, its worth spending a little extra time to do a proper job - especially with something as critical as the bar mountings...

    Jx