Rally-Raid Products Honda CB500X

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by ktmmitch, Sep 22, 2014.

  1. ThirtyOne

    ThirtyOne I got my wings back.

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    Looking forward to see what's coming in the future. I'm sure that whatever you guys come up with it'll be a well made and well designed piece of kit. I'll stay tuned.
  2. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    You are quite limited with the choice of bars on the CB500X as the tank/fairing sits high around the top triple clamp, so you need a rise of around 80mm for everything to clear on full lock.

    For Fat-bars, you are therefore really limited to either the Renthal RC High bend (which Rally-Raid stock) that have an 84mm rise and a straighter sweep than stock; or the bars I have fitted to my own bike which are the ProTaper ADV low (90mm rise) which have a similar sweep to the stock bars and also fit with the stock cables etc. - although in either case it really is necessary to release the cables from the OEM clips and brackets around the headstock so you have the maximum free length:

    [​IMG]

    Hope that helps!

    Jx
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  3. KI6HNB

    KI6HNB Been here awhile

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    Thanks again.

    Anyone here in the states know what the ship time is? I ordered the skid a while back and I want to say it only took 4-5 days but this box is going to be a little bigger.
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  4. wintu

    wintu Adventurer

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    My took same time as engine guard so about 4 days once shipped
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  5. Hootowl

    Hootowl Long timer

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    Hee hee - you mean hangers of course, we already have the actual pegs ;o)

    Jx[/QUOTE]

    Oops! yes, the hangers. I already have the pegs.
  6. wintu

    wintu Adventurer

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    Yesterday i was working to fit the front part of the lvl.2 kit on my CB when i realized that there are no adjustable fork caps in the package so i just thought that they forgot to pack those but super quick response to my email ( remember its a weekend) to rally raid reveled that those are not part of the kit and have to be bought separately. so my question to you guys is should i bother with ordering these or its better to save some money at least for now since they probably don't do much other than adjusting a sag right. so what you guys think?
    Thx
  7. ben2go

    ben2go Moto Flunky

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    They will be super helpful for setting up sag and spring preload.
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  8. Garde

    Garde brainz 4 sale

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    Did the swap from the level 2 back down to 1. Its been a rough few weeks though - and I mean the forks. The ride has been downright painful!

    I got the exact same setup as I had for the L2. The forks have been rebuilt twice (third time tomorrow with a real good cleaning), practically every combination of oil level, preload and tire pressure has been tried. Clear, new oil immediately comes out black.

    I can feel every small bump in seat and handlebar - new seat somewhat improved matters - got new brake pads (rebuilt caliper) and new chain and sprockets. Its worst anywhere above 35mph, particularly at 5k rpm and actually put my entire right arm out for a day. Now it puts my hand to sleep in about half an hour.

    This is my only vehicle, and everything has been tried during commutes consisting of suburbs, school zones, and highway.
  9. No-Fret

    No-Fret DeplorableTanker

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    You have any noises coming from the skid plate at all. Mine was cracked and caused my bike vibrate like crazy around 3000 rpm. Handlebars vibrated at almost all rpms. Got it welded and its great now.

    Did you get new fork valves and springs with the L1 kit?
  10. Garde

    Garde brainz 4 sale

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    My bash plate had a failed weld before, but the vibration was at 4800rpm. That was taken care of last year. This is less vibration (though that is certainly there) and more jerkbumpthud with an undertone of vibration..if that makes any sense!

    Yes, new valves and springs. Everything was swapped out. Will be disassembling everything again tomorrow after a too-early doctors appointment. The contrast between this setup and the nigh-on-perfect L2 has been quite stunning. I hope it's something I did wrong and is easily corrected, as I'm going on a road trip in a few weeks.
  11. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Garde - sorry, I've been off the grid the past few days and only just seen this... fwiw. I think it has to be an assembly issue of some kind (did you fit the bushes from the old damper rods to the new ones for example?) as the internal parts of the LEVEL 1 and 2 fork kits are exactly the same, other than the length of the damper rods themselves - so other than the overall travel, the ride should be pretty much the same up until the point the LEVEL 1 forks run out of travel (ie. sooner).

    In general, if you have any set-up issues, you can always email Rally-Raid directly and discribe the symptoms - although it is always hard to diagnose something like this remotely. Do check you followed the fitting instructions correctly - the damper rod bushes is something some people forget to do - and the oil level/volume and weight is correct for L1 (less oil required than L2), and that you do bleed the air out of the lowers when initally filling - by pumping the forks slowly with before topping off with the correct amount of oil.

    Hope that helps get things sorted...

    Jenny x
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  12. Garde

    Garde brainz 4 sale

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    Yep, did all that. I'll be tearing it down and giving things a good clean out one more time before I'm satisfied I haven't done something wrong. I may refuse to touch engines and the rear shock - a lifetime of clumsy (in)experience prevents me from doing such things unsupervised - but I've done fork rebuilds on all my bikes.
  13. Garde

    Garde brainz 4 sale

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    Everything is apart, but I came across something I've never seen before: the new damper rods, which have been installed for maybe three weeks, are corroding. This indicates water got in there somehow, but this much in less than three weeks, and practically no rain? No puddle jumping, either. From what I could see, there is no apparent corrosion within the stanchion or on the slider itself internally.

    I'll be the first to admit that I'm no expert. Is this all right to leave as-is? First image is from the right fork, second from the left fork. The right is significantly worse.

    damper right.jpg damper left.jpg
  14. ben2go

    ben2go Moto Flunky

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    That's not good. You'll want to clean that up with some fine emery cloth or scotch bright pad.
  15. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    Hi Garde - if you ask the internet about this sort of thing you're likely to get a dozen different suggestions. If you contact the company directly I'm sure they will be able to advise.

    Jx
  16. UKJeeper

    UKJeeper Adventurer

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    Where's the fun in that ? :lol3

    Of course, it would be nice if they replied to emails. Still waiting to see if they know why my left fork preload adjuster is untightening itself.. .
    Manray likes this.
  17. Manray

    Manray Killing Time

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    WOW....thanks for the post and pictures. How many people disassemble their forks within weeks? Shouldn't the (420ml LVL 1 and 450ml LVL2) oil in each fork leg totally submerge the damper rod in oil making corrosion impossible?
  18. ben2go

    ben2go Moto Flunky

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    I'm not sure on the RR kit but you would think that there would be enough splashing of the fork oil to keep it coated and free from rust and corrosion. The only time I have seen bad fork internals was because of them being run dry and the seals leaking.
  19. Garde

    Garde brainz 4 sale

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    I've emailed them. I asked here as well due to the timing: I own only the one vehicle, and the forks have to go back together today regardless of what I do or don't do. I have this weird thing called "work" and a commute that doesn't work with the bus.

    I was suspecting as much. Thanks.

    Seals are new. They looked fine, but there's always that chance.
    Regardless of the cause, I have to get the forks reassembled today. Now that I know this is abnormal (as suspected, and Google wasn't my friend in this search), I can approach it with a mind that there may be something else wrong here besides my mechanic's initial assembly (he hasn't messed up before) and my own continuous rebuilds. Hopefully the clean up will suffice and this will be the last rebuild.
    I'd like to actually go ride outside of my commute!
  20. OHjim

    OHjim Been here awhile

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    Garde - some thoughts: Was there any sign of water/moisture in the fluid you drained out? Seems odd to me that since this surface is so high up and water is heavier than oil (and they don't mix well) that water could have gotten on this surface to corrode it. That being said, since RR's emulator fits so tight to the inside maybe that could have trapped moisture?? Did the bike get power washed recently? That kind of pressure could blast past the seals.