Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Racing' started by wrk2surf, May 4, 2011.
Here's a better pic, it survived a fair bashing on my test ride.
Are you planning on putting a fairing on this setup?
Got any more pics Michael?
Designed these roadbook mounting brackets for Rally Management Services a while ago. Charlie was able to tell me pretty much exactly what he wanted, which was cool because I'm not a rally racer and had never used roadbooks before. Wondering if any of you guys used these mounting brackets. Just curious because I do a lot of my own testing, and would love to hear how these are working out.
Not nearly as neat on the other side...
A mirror mounted to the top of the roadbook?
ok, I have been doing a lot of things lately, mainly testing, measuring going back and forth but I am finally so close ... The first supplier screw me up big time with the quality of the things that he supplied but I will see it as a good thing as (1) he could not do any text engraving/cutting end (2) he allowed me to modify the design in order to make it better ... So here is my progress so far, I hope you enjoy it as much as I do designing the thing It is the first time I am using my skills to built something for me so please excuse my excitement ...
I wanted certain things from a Navigation tower. Mainly the following sum up my needs...
1) RB holder, GPS and IMOs should fit on the NavTower.
2) Switches for fan, aux lights and imo should be easily accesible
3) Made from 3 and 4 mm aluminium sheet
4) NavTower will hold the lights. LED lights were chosen to be bought from ADVmonster. Two spots and two wides. Very happy with the purchase, Lights are spot on. A head light was also bought from advmonster. All four lights should be fully adjustable, tilt left and right, up and down, going in and out, up and down etc :huh
5) Should be fully adjustable. Angle, height etc.
6) KTM speedo should fit somewhere there in order to keep the fuel and the temp lights.
7) A 12V battery should fit somewhere in order to keep the IMOs and the RB running in case of an electrical failure.
8) The same for the lights. Auxiliary cables for an auxiliary lithium battery in order to be prepared for these dark moments in the race ... It will be a 24 hours rally so I am going anal with the lights
9) Fuse box should be on the tower. LED fuses will be used in order to check blown fuses during the night stages.
10) Light bases should be able to convert for everyday riding. (i.e. put something to create the cut off effect so as not to blind oncoming drivers.)
So... Here I go ...
When I design something in the computer, I use the sheet metal design feature which unfolds the sheet metal for you. Then I print it in A4 pages. I use this as a base to cut the thing from a special material that is being used by architects to build models. ... The process looks like so :
once I cut the parts, I bend them in the right shape and use duct tape to hold them in that position. And yes my other bike is an Angry BerG
So here we are with the very first version of the thing...
The screen needs to be modified, but this will be done in a later stage. Never mind the elastic bands, they were there to keep everything in place as I have not done any welding yet...
So. the conclusions so far are that (1) it is way too big with the KTM speedo, (2) the switchboard looks a little big and (3) the minimum height is way too high for me ... :eek1 ... One could get taller as time goes by but I doubt it for me at this stage , plus the race is late November so I guess only an operation would give me this extra push ... I think I ve gone over to the bad place again... ...
Anyways, I was back to the drawing board and in the next couple of hours I modified the whole thing...
The next thing I have done in order to perfect it is the following.
I seperated the whole thing in three parts.
a - The main unit which will hold the RB, IMOs and GPS
b - Switchboard for the toggle switches with the LED lights.
c - KTM speedo assembly with toggle switches onboard.
This allows me to run quite a number of configurations. For example I can discart everything and keep only the KTM speedo on the Tower assembly. Or run the KTM speedo with toggle switches. Or the RB main unti with toggle swiches on the bottom. Or on the rightside of the RB... Imagination is my friend at this stage
ok. So here are the first videos that I have done...
<IFRAME height=315 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-JTBslF9jWM" frameBorder=0 width=560 allowfullscreen&hd=1></IFRAME>
You can see that the above is only in one part. Now the second try...
<IFRAME height=315 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/j0K9L628dbw" frameBorder=0 width=560 allowfullscreen&hd=1></IFRAME>
You can now see clearly the three parts. Main, KTM speedo holder and switchboard.
The two final ones are the ones I am going to be manufacturing, too bad the suppliers are closed for holidays at the moment but come september I will have everything up and running ... So the height is now better and the supplier can cut the text in order to create a great effect... If I manage to put some LEDs underneath it should be looking very nice during night riding ...
<IFRAME height=315 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/AavtnGfcS4c" frameBorder=0 width=560 allowfullscreen&hd=1></IFRAME>
Almost there ... Never Give Up !
How else am I meant to make sure I look good while riding?
Most people have a tendency to go very high with their nav towers. We have seen countless broken noses due to the this in rallying. There really is no need to have a nav equip that close to the face. When you are riding actively your chin is a few inches above the handle bars and it doesn't take that big of a bump so send the tower up in your face.
Just a friendly pointer!
Some of us don't have a huge chin.
No offence taken so it is indeed a friendly pointer!
As far as this particular problem is concerned, this is the reason that I modified the 'banana ' plates. The new design sits 40mm lower than the one that you see in the picture. It's highest point it's most,where the top off the fairing is. And it can go lower if need be because it is fully adjustable . With that position in mind, which is the one that I raced last year,I think I ''ll be ok. I will post again pics with the new plates and if I see that it needs modifying it will be redesigned to be perfected!
Keep the comments thought because once you are the designer it is very easy to miss things... :eek1
I built mine so the height could be adjusted.
At first my helmet chin hit it the road book on ocasion.
Its set a bit lower now so only my chest touches it on stupid hill climbs.
That's how they think Fabrizio Meoni died in the 2005 Dakar, RIP. Probably hit in the neck by his navigation equipment. I saw the bike and nav tower a little while after he fell and it was not pretty. Keep it as low and flat as you can and minimize sharp edges.
Check out Jonah Street's bike from the last Dakar. He made the navigation tower and fairing himself. It is much lower and further forward than most of the others out there and I think that this makes it safer, more aerodynamic, and easier to read when standing (when your chin should be out over the handlebars.) Nobody said it was pretty, though:
Thats what I love about this thread. Everyone brings some info.. try to keep these photos coming AND hosted so the links to the photos stay put!
Thanks Charlie.. always value your input!
Always appreciate the input of other riders / racers
Charlie, with the lower set up this is exactly how it is supposed to look when the fairing is on ! Plus, that the fairing will be modified to suit the Tower.
Great job, all those parts, that represents a lot of drawing work, keep it going!
Just came back from the garage, Charlie's post scared me a little bit to be honest, but in a good way ... So, the new plates, the ones that you see on the short version of the latest video allow the RB and IMO assembly to be either tucked in, behind the fairing at, let's say 20-30 deg inclination, and they can also be placed at 45 deg for racing. Because the bike will be used for commercial everyday riding It has to be adapted at different positions...
You can see the difference between the two below:
You can see below the adjustments of the Tower (if you look for some time at the picture ) , which I think will suffice to find a good setup at the end . The back up plan is to use a hacksaw to make a cut on the stud bolt (the one which adjusts the angle) in order for it to break if the blow is too heavy. A couple of these will be bolted as subassemblies onto the tower in case of failure... :huh
AntiPaul, many thanks for your support... a little preview of the drawings below :eek1
Will be back next week with more progress !
Earlier in this thread there was a discussion about using HDPE or equivalent to side plates or other parts of the structure. Have you thought of using this as it has a inherent amount of flex that alloy does not. I spoke to 2 different suppliers in regards to HDPE and both stated that UV (one of the issues) would effect the product but most likely not in the application like this. The guy that we used to water jet cut the plates we made would be able to cut HDPE as well, and as a side effect its also easy to mod in your own shed. From a strength/weight perspective it can be made about 3 times thicker. Which depending on the alloy used is about ~12mm (1/2 inch) which is a pretty solid bit.
Check about 30 seconds in. If you've seen this already then apologies for bringing it up again.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_vIJRxT7Dkw?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Tileman a thought HDPE with a carbon wrap .this would strengthen and make it more rigid (and look sexy ) in the advent of a crash the carbon should just crack leaving the HDPE to flex this would also block UV .
It would also mean the HDPE could be thinner . Just a thought to be proven