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Discussion in 'Racing' started by wrk2surf, May 4, 2011.
Nope. Generous bend radius and the right alloy.
This is what two of us have come up with
3rd pic is the vac bagging and epoxy infusion of 2 layers of 650 gsm carbon and 2 layers of 200gsm carbon/twaron (roadbook holder). We made the mould from 2 mil ally, just bent it to the right shape in a bender. Weight of the RBH is 240 grams. It won't shatter in a crash due to the twaron (aramid like kevlar, only black not yellow), and they'll be baked for 8 hours. The nav tree will fit any bike.
The right alloy is important for sure.
How thick is that Alloy plate?
Tileman, it's 6 mil.
Well it won't break to easy I figure :eek1
Exactly. Could go less I guess, but I wouldn't want any less than 5 mil really.
Great piece of engineering and machining for sure!
Bolted up to my Husaberg with no fuss whatsoever:
Next step is getting the Fuzeblock and mounted and wired up, and then adding the F2R roadbook once I get my Rally Raid Products mounting plate and RNS parts in. One week to go before I have to drop off the bike for shipping to Tunisia!
I'm looking at 1 of these for a new 501 Berg.
How did it fit with the bottom triple clamp and fender mount?
Fits perfect, you just replace the black plastic thing that holds the fender and the headlight shell on the newer Bergs, and replace it with:
50308009100 FENDER BRACE BLACK '99 $11.40
This uses the same hole and hardware in the front of the fender, and in the rear gets sandwiched between the lower triple and this lower HDB bracket:
I used a longer bolt to get the same thread engagement after the added thickness, M6x25mm with a washer under the head worked nicely. If you don't have those bolts at home and want to avoid a trip to the hardware store, order two of these along with the brace:
0025060256 HH COLLAR SCREW M6X25 TX30 Retail: $1.89
Nice one BigMike,
Too thick IMO, I went for 4mm and if I remember correctly Tony used 3mm and it held fine. Of course you cannot go wrong using thicker plates so that is fine.
Dave/Jesusgatos, what alloy did you use? I am going to change the radius in mine to get 2 x thickness in 50xx series but I am not sure at the moment as the ones I have, sustained serious cracks from the bending machines. As expected the cracks opened due to vibration... Most designs do not use 90 degree bends so the alloy does not suffer that much, but there should be a solution. I am looking for somebody who knows what he is doing, but here they seem lost in space. Most of them will not change the tool and the result will be sharp bends and cracks. Anyways, will deal with this later as I am looking to make everything out of HDPE blocks and CNC them. The HDB HDPE parts are really amazing. Not only in they are lighter but they are flexible and they will eat vibrations for breakfast.
Lukas, ... The installation is way too easy. In the beginning you see all these parts and start wondering :huh but it is so easy to assemble. Like playing with Legos
The 640A is engineless, so the ''shark'' was employed
Never mind the tablecloth, cant argue with that as it is not me who decides the decoration ...
I love buttons
The quality is ''jewelry'' type and you will be amazed by the CNC engraving and spotless anodizing
I started stripping down the berg for the first time
Now, this is the way I put the Tower. The way I put the Roadbook holder plate is such that in case of an emergency the plastic bolts will break and the thing will fold away. Dont want to test it in real life but when I pushed it away without the plastic bolts it moved away from me so hopefully it may save my chest one day :huh . This design feature I think is the most importand in this Tower.
Now... We are off to the Handguards...
I used Acerbis Rally Handguards before, the ones with the metal stiffener inside them. I thought they were tough.
The HDB Handguards are something completely out of this world (Paul is an Alien? :huh) ... Although I could see the difference in thickness in HDB's website, seeing it in real life is an eye opener . You think you can break a wall with these things.
I am going to make some sort of supports for the LED lights I already have from ADVmonster and until then I will keed the original mask on the bike for a dirty look . Too much trail rides this time of year so I am keeping the good one for later, once I have the light supports ready.
I only need to re-route the brake cable but because the front fender has the plastic stiffener I could not mount the cable guides (name? :huh ) . They are ok now the Tower plate is off the bike, will do this once I put the plate on.
Next month the Rally Raids begin so I have this boy to put on
Later this month I will be reviving the 640 again with a Rev02 Tower and lots of goodies ...
The last one is my little friend who helps me during installations
Once again, thumbs up to Paul's excellent service, international postage took only four-five days
Hope the Tuareg goes well for you.
...those are some fancy bottles in the background.. I know who's house to visit if I'm ever thirsty in Greece
Thought I'd add what happened to mine yesterday. Since the road book mount for the 640 isn't really how I'd like I thought I'd see what I could build from stuff in the shed. Its not how I'd like exactly but it does have the ability to change in the future once I get my road book holder finished. Its steel at the moment and a bit heavier than I'd like, also I'll lose if I decided to get a closer look at the front wheel unexpectedly. There is plenty of space to fit the tacho, and I will fit a taller clear screen soon which the instruments will hide behind. Its made of 4mm alloy, a 40 x 20mm piece of delrin at the bottom with 10mm side plates, with a 20 x 40mm piece in the middle.
For what I am going to use it for (recreational stuff, nothing hardcore etc) this will probably do. I plan to use some of the ABS sheet I have lying around to make a cover similar in shape to the original cover (which housed the instruments) which will make it look closer to stock. There will be quite a few changes to this before it gets left alone, bolt diameters etc, but for now and with zero dollar expense I'm happy with how it turned out.
Plus there hadn't been a post here for a while and I thought this might spark a debate........ :huh
very nifty !!!
Anyone know the current draw from the f2R roadbooks? I blew the 1A fuse and seemed to kill 2 switches testing a circuit. The switch manufacturer needs to know the amps, I dont have an ammeter.
Funnily, second set of switches worked perfectly with no change to the circuit so no idea what I did wrong the first time.
Im using 2 switches instead of toggle to drive the motor forwards and backwards without the use of a controller chip.
F2R RB-730 and RB-750 models are shipped with 1.5A fuses.
Use of two switches without a controller is "at your own risk".
Im aware of what fuses they are shipped with as i had to replace one.
I doubt mecasystems uses a controller chip and i daresay they run the same circuit design as me which is currently working perfectly fine with my second set of switches with no short circuit even if both buttons are pressed at once. Pressing of one switch breaks the circuit for the second switch so it cant short.