Real world KTM 350 EXC impressions?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GravityDT, Apr 25, 2012.

  1. Lutz

    Lutz Fuzzy Rabbit

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    I'd really bet there is some resonance occurring within the part itself around the specific RPM range that is being sustained with those very similar gearing and speed combinations. Could be induced by other engine vibrations or the just the magnet pass frequency at that specific RPM. Either the pulse generator is simply shaking itself to death, or it's shaking far enough to make contact with the flywheel.

    Either way, I would verify the cruising RPM that this is occurring at, and then regear or adjust sustained cruising speed higher or lower to avoid holding the engine at that RPM for extended timeframes.

    And I agree, carrying a spare on a long trip would be a good idea.
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  2. gplassm

    gplassm Been here awhile

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    I know that people frequently gear their 350's down, so I am a little bit shocked when I read about the highway travel some of you are doing. I experimented with gearing and eventually went back to the OEM 14/45 for general dual sport use. I still would not travel for even an hour at 70-80 mph, even with my tall gearing. Call me a scaredy-cat, but I want my bike to live a long life. 2012 model, with no significant problems so far...


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  3. haggeo

    haggeo Been here awhile

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    I'm looking for just the pulser but it's not clear to me if they are bike specific or what. Also, it would have to somehow be spliced in Without the benefit of a soldering iron. They few I have found cost around $70, I found the complete stator for $114.
    I found a forum post claiming that the problem is associated with a high oil level:

    http://husaberg.org/mechanical/22806-2014-fe250-crankshaft-position-sensor-fail-twice.html

    It's hard to find an email address for KTM but I did find one for KTM Europe and sent them a short email with pictures. They actually wrote back asking for my phone number so we'll see if they call.
  4. drsib

    drsib Adventurer

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    My mechanic mentioned this to me as well, but I do my own oil changes and I am in no rush when refilling. No chance that I had overfilled prior to failure #1. Then after replacement, the mechanic was darn sure he did not overfill, and it failed anyway. So, I'm going to call BS on this particular theory...
  5. henrys

    henrys Adventurer

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    I was thinking of putting a quick-connector of sorts inside the stator housing so you could swap out the pulse generator quickly on the side of the road.

    Hrm that's interesting. I do recall my oil level being high in the sight glass. Do you recall how high your oil level was?

    My bike is a 6 days and actually came with 13/52 from the factory. It's now 13/50. I've tried running 14/50 which did great on the highway but was geared way too high for technical single track so switched back to a 13.
  6. drsib

    drsib Adventurer

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    Yeah, I'm forming the same opinion. This is a street legal dirt bike that might not be sufficiently reliable for prolonged freeway use. I really liked hearing from Bitingdog and RideFreak that I wasn't stupid for taking this bike on a 2 week trip with a mix of slab and trails in CO. If I take this bike on a trip again, I might cruise at 55-65 mph instead. But there is no way that I would go back to 14/45 gearing...the bike is just too good at 13/50 off road! I did bring along a 14 CS, and could have changed it out prior to highway, but thought the bike was dealing with 65-70 mph without issue, so I didn't bother. I will reconsider this next time, but again, hindsight is 20/20...
  7. wizz

    wizz Up a creek......

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    When I did a 2200 mile loop on the IDBDR, across wa and down the obdr I ran 14/45 and had no issues, and kept it under 65 on highway stretches. 13/50 is really low for highway cruising, on a big dualsport id rather be on the high side rather than the low side.
  8. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

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    *Firstly please seek @RideFreak as the final arbiter*
    Freeway on the 350 is hard on the rider, but I don't think that it's hard on the bike. Contrary to popular belief, the motor isn't running particularly hot on the highway. It's doing some revving, but not much load while cruising. On the freeway, the higher rpms ensure that the water pump is circulating coolant effectively, and there is excellent airflow through the radiators.

    We put a temperature gauge on my 350; where it gets hot is low rpm lugging on gnarly trails. Throw in some cavalier clutchwork, and it'll spit coolant occasionally on grunty and technical climbs. This despite the OEM fan.

    Racers climbing serious hills simply pin the throttle and modulate the clutch - that's maximum revs, high load, and insane heat. Running down the Interstate is a cakewalk in comparison.

    I wouldn't shy away from riding the 350 anywhere. It's a great motor.


    @andrewgore has raced his, crossed states on the highway, and basically tormented his bike for many years. Check out his findings when he finally checked his top end for wear. It's quite illuminating
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  9. haggeo

    haggeo Been here awhile

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    the quick connect is a good idea, now to find a pulser that works with this bike.

    i have a rekluse clutch and the cover is bigger so i know that when i'm at the middle of the glass or above the engine has more than the stated capacity for the bike. i've never figured out how much more i just go to the middle of the glass but this last time i may have had slightly more oil in there.

    i will be regearing too, back to a 48 or 49 from a 52.
  10. henrys

    henrys Adventurer

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    The problem is I have to keep up with some 250 2-stroke guys that like to run fast on the highway as well as single track. I hope I can find a solution to this problem.. or just carry a lot of spares.
  11. andrewgore

    andrewgore Gôremā

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    It's an illusion. I've mostly given up on responding to long term reliability talks on these bikes. I know these bikes have their faults, but am quite realistic on how they'll hold up assuming dual sport use.

    My bike did have an overheating problem my last ride. Turned out a radiator hose clamp was loose :lol3. If it weren't for my precious knobbies on my bike right now and the f800gs sitting next to it, I'd be commuting daily on it.

    In conclusion, if you're frying stator parts, something is way wrong.

    Andrew
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  12. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

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    Well yeah of course. If you're on the Freeway at 9000rpm, the water pump is turning faster than it does grunting through a rock garden at 4000rpm


    Hey, since when do I look like a windmill???
  13. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

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    Apparently the pulse coil?


    We seem to have a containment breach in the Threadfest. Set your pulse coil to stun f18d6ae232cee46bd8ba44b501471bbd--sphynx-cat-hairless-cats.jpg
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  14. haggeo

    haggeo Been here awhile

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    i agree. this is the first problem i've had with my bike and i don't see it as proof that it is an unreliable bike considering the many bikes (350 exc-f) that have NOT have this particular problem.
  15. Eldon

    Eldon 950 ADV

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    My 350 was geared 14/45 and I hit quite a few sections of 1-2 hrs + @ 80-85mph on a 9 day Baja trip. The bike never complained nor failed.

    I'm geared 13/52 now and wouldn't hesitate running 60 mph for extended time. RPM's are still sitting low compared to red line.
  16. henrys

    henrys Adventurer

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    To add a little fuel to the fire I recently did an enduro event in Colorado and when my bike failed one of the mechanics told me that he would bet money that it was the pulser coil. He said that he had seen that problem a few times on 350s that were running high speeds on the highway. It may not happen to every bike but it seems to happen enough that the issue is known around KTM mechanic circles. I'd sure like to hear what KTM has to say.

    One thought I had was perhaps some engines have a flywheel that's perhaps not as true as others. It would be interesting to compare the flywheel runout of a failed sensor bike to one that has never failed under the same conditions. I bet the clearance is very tight and a flywheel even the slightest bit out of round can make contact under the right conditions.
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  17. goodburbon

    goodburbon Been here awhile

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    Can we maybe slot the pulser coil mounting holes to set it back from the flywheel by another 32nd of an inch.


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  18. SoilSampleDave

    SoilSampleDave Dr. Zaius was right!

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    Does anyone know of a replacement top triple clamp or Scott's mount (top or sub mount) that will move the handlebars farther forward than the furthest forward position available with the stock clamps? TIA.
  19. Black99S

    Black99S Been here awhile

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    Chris Birch states in his Enduro course ...
    Bar mount position furthest forward (1) and furthest aft (4) shouldn't be used. Use (2) if you are over 6' tall and (3) if under 6' tall.
    And at 6'1" he does not use and does not recommend bar risers. Adjust your bars so rise bend is parallel to forks and levers set 10deg below horizontal.
    Stand up, ass back (not knees forward), head up, elbows up and lower your rider triangle.
  20. wizz

    wizz Up a creek......

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    Yeah, birch is hard enduro racer, not an tall old washed up ww kayaker with bad shoulders. He knows assloads more about riding than 10 of me, but I know I can't spend a full day (6-10hours) in the saddle without the higher bars taking pressure off my shoulders. It's all idiosyncratic and a compromise when it comes down to it.