Rear main leak...or ???

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by woodly1069, Jan 6, 2013.

  1. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer

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    Not so sure about that. I would think that an over torqued countersunk screw could cause a crack easier than a flat bolt head.
    I realize that I'm comparing apples to oranges ( plastic vs. steel ) but I saw so many leaking neutral switch plates on RDs due to cracks from over torqued C/S screws. The key was loctite and just snug the screw enough to seat the cover and compress the O-ring. Let the loctite take care of the bolt retention.
    #21
  2. ME 109

    ME 109 Long timer

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    The counterbore for the bolt head is what caused the problem. The bottom of the counterbore is ever so close to the o-ring groove on the other side. Perhaps my cover was somehow over machined bringing it too close to the o-ring groove.
    Mind you, this cover was at least 25 years old and had only been taken off once. Possibly over torqued.
    #22
  3. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Woodly, don't know how far you are into the disassembly so apologies if this is 205. Please disconnect the neg cable on the battery BEFORE you remove the front cover. You could damage your diode board.
    #23
  4. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    Yeah, but on an RD the switch is made of plastic!


    Oops. Sorry for the drive-by posting there. I see you acknowledged the fact that it's plastic.
    #24
  5. woodly1069

    woodly1069 Long timer

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    The bike is totally disassembled at this point so the battery is long gone! Thanks for the heads up! I do have one question though, what is referred to as the RMS the rear main seal?
    #25
  6. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    Yep RMS = Rear Main Seal
    #26
  7. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    One thing. have you tried smelling the oil residue ? Transmission oil smells completely different from engine oil. That could give you a clue where it's coming from.
    #27
  8. backdrifter

    backdrifter Wannabe rider

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    Not to beat a dead horse - but please be sure to check if the crank has moved forward as jackd prescribed. If it has not, block it immediately. If it HAS, I've read of a few last ditch tricks that may help you re-seat the thrust bearings. If that fails, unfortunately, it's time for total engine disassembly.

    I got lucky in that I read about blocking the crank just before I got that deep into my engine.

    For the record, both my rear main seal and oil pump cover were leaking, but then again, so was every gasket and o-ring on the entire bike! :rofl
    #28
  9. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

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    I work on them for a living.
    #29
  10. ignatz72

    ignatz72 call me iggy

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    SS, Me109 was referring to himself - he is his own numbnuts PO. :D
    #30
  11. craydds

    craydds Long timer

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    It is time to get that oil pump cover off. Make more pictures.
    #31
  12. woodly1069

    woodly1069 Long timer

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    You are correct! I need to do that but his evening we had plans...I did get to steal a minute before dinner and eyeball the engine at the alternator brushes, it appears that the small amount of crank movement did no shifting! Things appear to still be in place! I will definitely takea few photos and update ASAP! Oh yeah, and block the stupid crank from sliding!:D
    #32
  13. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    Actually I wasn't too worried about your crank moving yet - you hadn't got involved in changing the seal out. But now you can go ahead with the confidence that everything will be alright.
    #33
  14. woodly1069

    woodly1069 Long timer

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    Sheeeewww! Glad you were not scared! Ozmoses scared me to death the other day! Actually I am super glad he did, another hour or two and I would have screwed up big time. Love the advrider, always learning something. Thanks Oz!
    #34
  15. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    It's only a fucking machine - remember that. Unfortunately some people like to become alarmist and post presumably just to increase their post count. A few come to mind. Enjoy your learning experience and one day you can become one of those if you so choose.... Hopefully you will have the self control and chose another path.
    #35
  16. ozmoses

    ozmoses Ride On

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    Do we have a problem?
    #36
  17. woodly1069

    woodly1069 Long timer

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    Nope, all is well! I've done PLENTY of rebuilds but this one caught me totally by surprise and am just thankful that he caught it when he did. I would hate to tear down a perfectly good engine...as a side note, the oil pump cover plate screws are soaking so I should be able to get them out very soon to inspect the seal.
    #37
  18. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    I have no problem with what Woodly is attempting - he is asking for good guidance and receiving it. I just raise my eyebrows at those who chime in on issues and have the need to contribute just to see their own words in print - and by doing so needlessly complicate issues. My failing I guess.
    #38
  19. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Even if you don't block the crank it doesn't usually move. If it does move the inner thrust bearing doesn't always fall off the pins. If the bearing comes off you can sometimes get it back on with out removing the crank. It's not a fun thing when it gets messed up but it can be fixed.

    It's just something to be aware of and know how to deal with . You'll never forget this one. Now you're an expert. :clap
    #39
  20. ME 109

    ME 109 Long timer

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    Blocking the crank is an issue that should be bought to the attention off anyone that appears to not know about it.
    Wouldn't it be a 50/50 chance as to whether the engine case or the crank wins the vacuum tug of war with the thrust washer?
    If indeed the crank gets pushed forward.

    A lot of noobs trying to remove a rms particularly on a clutch carrier bike might use the guide ring for leverage.
    Shit, I did.
    And I didn't know about blocking the crank.
    And I pushed the crank forward without realsing it.
    And I torqued up the clutch carrier with the washer sitting on top of the dowels.....
    #40