Rear shock on LC4 / Adventure

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by mikeprod92211, Dec 29, 2007.

  1. mikeprod92211

    mikeprod92211 Desert Rat

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2004
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    589
    Just a curious question:
    Got a 2000 LC4E with 25k on the clock, routine maintenance includes fork oil change every year.
    Contemplating replacing the fork springs with a bit stiffer set (I'm 5ft 10, 210lbs).
    Also thinking about a new shock spring!
    When do you guys rebuild the rear shock, replace the inner fluid and fresh nitrogen?
    What's the necessary frequency of that process?
    BTW, there's no leakage, no oil visible on the shock, and the linkage gets fresh grease annualy!
    I don't race, ride some offroad, nothing extreme, bike handles ok for me.
    Thanks for your ideas / replies!
    #1
  2. johan

    johan Been here awhile

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    Exactly the question I was about to post, I'm interested in answers too!

    Additionally, I remember seeing a thread somewhere dicussing removal of the shock, claiming that if it was done in some smart way, it was a 2 minute operation. Which is the the easiest way to do this?

    I'll probably send the shock for service though...


    #2
  3. snaggleXR650

    snaggleXR650 Been here awhile

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    The shock will drop down through the swingarm. You have to raise the swingarm a bit and get it in just the right position. Then after the shock is unbolted top and bottom, you can maneuver it out by twisting it just right. It's difficult at first, but when you find the secret spot it's pretty easy.
    #3
  4. Zerodog

    Zerodog Long timer

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    From the LC4 shocks I have seen and been servicing 12,000 seems to be when a stock LC4 shock starts to show some signs of leaking. At 15,000 and up they are pretty shot and starting to leak pretty bad. This life expectancy is shorter if you offroad hard. If you ride hard offroad or in bad conditions like mud and wet sand you can expect to service your shock yearly like a dirtbike. So at 25K if the shock has never been serviced the bike has either only been ridden on the pavement or it is possible that there is no oil left in the shock. I can't wait to see inside BMWKTMBILL's shock after his mongolia trip. He put around 12,000 hard miles on a freshly built shock. It will be interesting to see the seal and bushing wear and oil condition.

    Signs of leaking are this.

    • Bottom of the shock seems to attract dirt easy
    • Rebound adjuster skanky
    • Dust cover at the base of the shock tube is black and oily
    • Drops of oil under bike
    • shock clunks on full extension
    • shock is lacking good damping or the adjustments don't seem to work
    #4
  5. fallzboater

    fallzboater Kiss My Shiny Metal Ass

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    Can't help on the shock life, as my SXC has only 6,500 miles. As far as springs, I'm 10 lb lighter than you (but also have the 18L tank) and would recommend 0.48 in the forks and an 8.5 on the shock.
    #5
  6. halfcab

    halfcab Been here awhile

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    Had my 01 shock rebuilt a few month's ago, the rebuild did make a difference.

    01 LC4 E with the large 18 tank, I'm 200 lbs and have 48's in front now, I'm going to 50's. Changed from 70 rear spring to 75.
    #6
  7. Castleman

    Castleman Guest

    My 99 LC4e's rear shock went 32,000 before it ever showed any signs of leakage. By 34,000 miles, all of the oil was gone and the shock needed attention. I serviced the fork oil for the first time last year at 30,000 miles. The seals are the original ones and have never leaked at all. The whole damn bike has been this reliable.

    Lets see, world class performance, handling, brakes, suspension and reliability. Now that's giving a person what they've paid for.
    #7
  8. johan

    johan Been here awhile

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    Thanks for all the info,

    FYI, my shock started feeling a tad worse at around 21000km, and is now at 25000km bad enough for a noob like me to actually feel a significant difference.
    #8
  9. mikeprod92211

    mikeprod92211 Desert Rat

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    Thanks for all the replies.
    I gues when the weather here in So CAl desert gets to be annoying to ride, it's time for the down time for the bike. Get those items taken care of.
    Or.......hmmmmm, get that nine ninety that I'd been lusting after, and then get the LC4 done.
    mike
    #9
  10. johan

    johan Been here awhile

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    Out of curiosity, how do you define annoying weather in the desert? Too hot or too cold?
    #10
  11. halfcab

    halfcab Been here awhile

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    :lurk
    #11
  12. Castleman

    Castleman Guest

    Here in So. Calif, we ride from about mid October to first of April. Any other time is to hot. The only problem during the riding season is wind. I ride alot at Ocotillo Wells. I just got back yesterday and left a day early because of pending wind and rain. Its almost always sunny (Ocotillo is a bit past Palm Springs) with daytime winter temps in the mid 60's to low 70's and night temp's in the high 30's to low 40's. A good reason why So. Calif. is a good riding location except for the greenies closing more and more riding areas.
    #12
  13. mikeprod92211

    mikeprod92211 Desert Rat

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    Hmmmm, let me see!
    110 deg +, inhale and burn your lungs, drink water out of the camelback every 5 minutes, and it burns your lips in the first gulp....facial redness from the wind blast with an off road HJC helmet...
    Get the idea?
    But the rest 9 months - like Castleman says....Paradise!!!!!!!!!!!
    #13
  14. johan

    johan Been here awhile

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    Like here then :D. 0 deg celsius -, inhale and burn your lungs, drink coffee out of the thermos every 5 minutes, and it freezes your lips in the first gulp....facial blueness from the wind blast with an off road HJC helmet...
    Get the idea? But the rest 9 months - Paradise!!!!!!!!!!!. Well, not entirely, but good enough april to november.

    Cheers
    #14
  15. mikeprod92211

    mikeprod92211 Desert Rat

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    Pretty good, Johan!
    Happy New Year!
    mike
    #15
  16. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    ...service shocks and forks that see "average" use every 20,000 ks.
    If used in anger (competition, hard riding) perform more frequently, same as other maintenance.
    #16
  17. ChubbyThumper

    ChubbyThumper Been here awhile

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    Top bush in my WP shock is showing wear, do I have to get it pressed out or can the job be done easily. Thanks
    #17
  18. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    I noticed that if i hold the nitrogen container with my hand I can move it right and left for a cca 3mm, it is not the container that moves, it is the whole shock&spring....that does not seem right to me.
    Could it be that the bearing on the lever link is shot? Or do you think it's something else...bushings....?
    And, yes, I checked if all the bolts and nuts are tightened.
    Thanks!
    M.
    #18
  19. Tseta

    Tseta Lost

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    Makazika: I noticed the same thing when adjusting the rear spring preload. My understanding is that the top mount of the rear shock absorber utilizes some type of ball joint, which brings a certain amount of "flex" or "play" into the shock mounting. However, I am uncertain as to exactly how much "play" should be considered allowable.

    Regards,

    Tseta
    #19
  20. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    Tseta, I might be wrong but this is what i got from a local forum on the topic; it's normal to have some play on the top mount of the shock and they say that the indication of a shot bearing would be increased play of the swingarm (up-down), before it gets into contact with the shock...

    Later today I'll measure the play of the shock and the play of the swingarm so we can compare values...

    Cheers!
    M.
    #20