Rebuilding my VW Type One 1600cc motor

Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by svs, Mar 1, 2013.

  1. svs

    svs All Hands on Deck!

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    I'm going to rebuild my VW Air cooled Type 1 engine. Currently it has single port heads and is running with a 30-PICT carburetor. The vin on the motor starts with AH so it's dual relief 1972 case and should be a good to use if it all checks out at the machine shop. RIMCO is in my area and they know the VW motor better than about anyone and they are the machine shop I plan on using for parts inspection and I'm leaning towards them assembling the long block when I get the parts sourced and together.

    Around $2500 is my budget... Used parts, New parts, keep the heads, use DP heads, single carb, dual carbs, turn key motor.....??

    I'm entertaining thoughts and opinions. Not looking for HIGH horsepower, but strong, reliable and semi-good gas mileage. Old motor revved to 4k and I want a more usable power band.. at least rev to 5k with power would be fine.

    Swing Axel, stock drum brakes and it's a BAJA BUG... low end torque and gas mileage work great when off road... Pleasure vehicle not a race vehicle.

    Parts, thoughts, crass humor... what ya got?

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    #1
  2. Heyload

    Heyload Remastered Classic

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    I'm pretty sure something about a "TDI" will surface soon enough...
    #2
  3. d mc gee

    d mc gee Been here awhile

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    Definitely go with DP heads. Theres lots of info out there on which ones are good and which are not. Hell there was a two part artical a couple years ago in Hot VW's that was a good read. Have you talked your plans/needs over with RIMCO? they may have some pretty good ideas.
    #3
  4. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    This is probably a little tail happy though.

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  5. bobfab

    bobfab Long timer

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    :lurk

    Im in, i love an old aircooled!
    #5
  6. svs

    svs All Hands on Deck!

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    The red one is nice... A Factory convertible like mine...Not a CHOP.

    I have spoke with RIMCO and they want me to tell them what I want.. So many choices most of which are dictated by budget...as with most things in life.

    Most likely use the stock crank and rods, which means 1776, 1835 or 1915.. Will keep the compression low so I can run 87 octane. Had a friend who's an off-roader and fabricator said keep the single ports, 30-PICT and go to 1915cc's with the piston and cylinders...run a 110 long duration cam. Torque monster and real good gas mileage...

    Not sure, most everyone else says DP's and that means new carburation..
    #6
  7. FPGT72

    FPGT72 Long timer

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    This one is a 1776 and has plenty of power, I am doing a 1300cc bug right now.

    I understand the rail is quite a bit lighter, but after the snow melts it is going to get driven to work from time to time....quite often I think.

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  8. Chuck Pryce

    Chuck Pryce Been here awhile

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    The sanba,is a good site for VW info.
    #8
  9. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    That VW was in Laguna Beach a few years ago, so not too far from you. If on a budget, just a light going over would probably give you the most bang for the buck. I don't know anything about bugs though. Closest I ever came to owning one was when I bought a Corvair.:lol3 Try Bugformance.

    http://bugformance.reachlocal.com/?scid=1248060&kw=8045856:19720&pub_cr_id=182866790
    #9
  10. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    Upgrade to 2.3L Type4, turbo, and never look back.. :D I use Adiran at Headflow Masters for my Type4 rebuild... He was reasonable.. I wanted bigger valves (42x36), and in hindsight, I should've ordered different cam..
    #10
  11. d mc gee

    d mc gee Been here awhile

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    Keeping the SP heads may be best for you. Especially if you can save or re purpose your funds in other areas of the engine. You were happy with them before? You will most likely be happier with them freshened up, and the rest of the motor upgraded.
    #11
  12. svs

    svs All Hands on Deck!

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    Pulled the heads and cylinders off...

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    #12
  13. Toadady

    Toadady Push'n parts

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    at first i thought you were wierd for leaving it bolted up to the trans, then i realised you are using it for a motor stand
    #13
  14. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

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    Always amazed they don't use head gaskets.
    #14
  15. Maccoul

    Maccoul Bam Bam

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    I would look at building a 85.5x76 stroker motor. No need to fly-cut case and heads but you will need to clearance the case. Single port heads will limit your rpm but on a stroker its all about grunt and gas milage. I will be doing this to my manx clone when the time comes.
    #15
  16. FPGT72

    FPGT72 Long timer

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    Don't forget shoptalk as well.
    #16
  17. groop

    groop So much to ponder

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    It's thesamba.com

    I have a 2L, single Weber 44 IDF in my 1974 Thing. Stock transmission. I live pretty close to you, so I would assume that we have the same weather, traffic patterns and driveability needs. The motor I have is plenty strong to propel me down the freeway, but since there is no choke, it can be cold-blooded to start.

    It's the green camo one
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    #17
  18. svs

    svs All Hands on Deck!

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    That's nice Groop..

    My build is totally dictated by funds. If Money was no object I'd trick out the Bug with good suspension, IRS Bus Trans and a motor muy better than $2500 will allow for..

    But such is life...can't have everything ya want and the WIFE "wants" more than I do. I have an older RV, a plated 2005 KTM 525 and a 2004 1K V-Strom plus the bug as the adventure machines and a 420 Horsepower daily driver..

    Far more shinny stuff than I ever thought I'd have...

    Taking the case into Pierside Parts (use to be Vee Dub Parts -VW America "asked" all the aftermarket companies to stop using "VW, Bug and Beetle") next week ...Jeff the manager is going to see how much motor my budget allows for...As this progresses I'll update the thread...

    Any all ya'alls got heads, carb(s) counter weighted crank ya don't need post back... used parts are cheaper than new ones if they are in good usable shape...
    #18
  19. MODNROD

    MODNROD Decisions, decisions

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    Listen to your friend, he knows his crap.

    SP heads are much better at handling heat and high load conditions (eg: a heavy Baja at low revs up a hill or dune) than DP heads. Best way to get torque is throw a crank in it. Stock Solex and CB Performance centrebranch works really well, adding a SVDA dizzy will cool it better and use a lot less fuel. 110 cam is too big, a 1835 with SP heads will rev clean thru to 5000 with only good valve seats and chambers, a good exhaust (like a cheap Trimil Baja or 2-tip) and 1.25 rockers using a STOCK cam, a 110 cam will only kill the torque under 2200 not add HP until over 4500 (and even then only a few HP). I wouldn't go out as far as 94mm bore personally, with SP heads I'd prefer to run a 76mm crank and 90.5mm "B" pistons (1955cc vs 1915cc), less chance of cracking the cases and better cooling.

    Never thought I'd say all this crap on ADVRider! :lol3

    The other option is to do what everyone else is telling you to do, then put up with soggy throttle response (coz it's only a little engine.......), crap fuel economy compared to other 4 cylinder vehicles (coz it's got really tall tyres........), and limited heat capability and engine life (coz after all it's a 50yr old design........).

    But until you've tried a well-built big cc SP motor Superstocker, you'd never know there was anything amiss with everyone elses cookie-cutter VWs. :deal
    #19
  20. marksbonneville

    marksbonneville Been here awhile

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    +1 listen to this guy, great advice here. The other option is a 74mm crank and machined thick wall 88mm jugs, not sure if any of that is still available in these "bigger is better" days. I also stick with basically a 100 profile cam or better yet just leave it stock, I live in the desert and want my engines to run cool, get decent fuel mileage and last, I actually prefer a stock single port 1600.
    #20