regulator question

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by the cavalier, Dec 5, 2011.

  1. the cavalier

    the cavalier adventurer

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    HI!


    I have recently tested my regulator rectifier after a few weeks of tending my battery every night to get it running. You see, the battery itself was not holding it's voltage over night. Well i spent $200 on a yuasa battery and am wanting to protect my investment.

    turns out my regulator is not running perfect...

    At 1,500 rpms it's producing an average of 14. volts. great!
    at 5,000 rpms it's producing an average of only 13.8 volts... hmmm.
    this means that the battery is getting some charge when i'm riding at speed.
    My commute is an even mix of about 5 miles on the hwy and 5 miles of traffic lights.


    my questions are...
    is 13.8 volts enough to keep my bike charged at hyw speeds?
    is this a sign of future failure?
    Am I at risk of killing my new battery?
    can i put this repair off till the spring?

    anyone have a spare regulator rectifier?

    Thanks for the advice!
    #1
  2. the cavalier

    the cavalier adventurer

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    There are no electrical accessories on this bike.

    I did check for loss of current and also the generator coils. no problems.
    #2
  3. Sumi

    Sumi Long timer

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    Did you turn on the low beam?
    #3
  4. K2m

    K2m ....58....

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    I'm on my 3rd rec/reg........ Just replace it with the latest model. 13.8 is not enough.

    New/good reg. runs 14.4/5 at idle no lights

    14.4/5 at rpm lights/no lights

    Two invaluable gages are a volt meter and oil temp (correct eng. temp)

    A lot of people panic that their bikes are overheating because their cooling system does what it is designed to do. With an oil temp gauge you know what is really happening.:wink:

    I mounted mine on the glove box

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #4
  5. DeepInIt

    DeepInIt Long timer

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    The battery killing issue is not an insufficient charge issue. The batteries get a shorted cell and then will take but not keep a charge. This can be diagnosed on a battery tester. There are disagreements as to the exact cause but spikes from the rectifier, how the starter draws, using a charger at more than 1.2 amps and jumping the bike are all possible causes. The 950 is famous for shorting batteries and seemingly worse with gel batteries. You may have an additional problem of low voltage in which case change the rectifier.
    #5
  6. K2m

    K2m ....58....

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    Go and price a Rec/Reg, there reasonably priced/cheep compared to all the fucking around. Everyone should should have one handy.
    #6
  7. the cavalier

    the cavalier adventurer

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    thanks for the replies!

    i am now in search for a regulator...
    #7
  8. K2m

    K2m ....58....

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    I got one of eBay installed it and it worked perfectly for about 10 seconds. Total waist of money. The thing caught fire sort of. This stuff had a big rap through the Yamaha forums.

    So I am on my third KTM and forth rec/reg. I've had my bike since new 6 years. Change my waterpump every 15,000km ... now 20,000km. Fitted a vacuum fuel pump..... and recently fixed my starter sprang spring. That was quite funny as I rang the shop and was quoted $1,080 for the part which includes the freewheel. The broken part looks like a spring from behind an oil seal..... reached into my bag of old unused seals and gaskets and found one that fit...... I works perfect. Cost = $0,000 :lol3 Easy bike to live with. No other problems
    #8
  9. unaweep

    unaweep Uses lotsa band-aids

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    K2m- which oil temp gauge is that and where/how is it hooked up? Sounds like a real good idea. Thanks
    #9
  10. K2m

    K2m ....58....

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    The gauge is a VDO water-temp from a boating shop ...... a discount warehouse place. I got the sender from the same shop. There is a little lug on the back of the oil tank. I drilled and taped it :1drink It's been there nearly 6 years

    [​IMG]
    #10
  11. unaweep

    unaweep Uses lotsa band-aids

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    Thanks!
    #11
  12. Head2Wind

    Head2Wind MotorcycleMayhem

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    I will have to dig for the complete reference, but I believe that a Yamaha R1 regulator will work far better because of the MOSFETs used internally. Requires the harness plug to be spliced but that is pretty easy. The R1 regs run much cooler and as a result typically will last a very long time. Voltage regulation also tends to be more in line with ~14.2Vdc.
    #12
  13. Head2Wind

    Head2Wind MotorcycleMayhem

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    Yamaha PN: 1D7-81960-00-00

    Requires plugs: FURUKAWA CONNECTORS

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_0w3_8DzoYFoKpptoCF_bSpw1WVU_uLHH6xjNdHb3pY?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3yC6cnxUY3w/TuOoVTYEDKI/AAAAAAAAADk/tSltvBS4eec/s800/connectors.JPG" height="512" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/112272203686511988431/DropBox?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJaBs66QtLOG_gE&feat=embedwebsite">Drop Box</a></td></tr></table>



    [​IMG]


    <table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td>[​IMG]</td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Drop Box</td></tr></tbody></table>

    #13
  14. K2m

    K2m ....58....

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    #14
  15. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    How do you connect to the OEM loom? Did you find the manufacturer of the OEM brown plug the yellow wires connect to?
    #15
  16. Uller

    Uller Long timer

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    My other ride is a 690 and I just went through the issue of a faulty regulator/rectifier. I was directed toward the Mosfet Style of R/R instead of the Sunt style as a possible upgrade/solution.

    I initally purchased the "Kit" from this guy: http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm

    but didn't like the breaker (vs. fuse) in his wiring for the wet pacific NW so I ended up getting some electrical components from this guy: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html

    and would just get the entire thing from him in the future if I did it again. (very prompt service for a large order of many small pieces)

    gefr - you get rid of that crappy connector all together and make solder connections to the wires to the stator. In its place you have a much better sealed unit and you can locate it anywhere on your bike you want. I plan on converting my 950 as soon as funds allow and think that I'll end up moving at least the starter relay, and maybe the R/R too, to a much more dry environment.

    I can tell you that the hole spacings in the Mosfet unit are the same as the stock unit so, it will bolt right up however, you have additional space requirements due to the connectors. I'm not sure if they would conflict with the skid plate/gas tank or not.
    #16
  17. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    I know from the mechanics they avoid soldering connections cause they tend to create stiff parts on the wires. That makes the ending of the soldering prone to cut, due to vibrations.
    Humidity doesn't seem to be a problem, since the OEM R/R get submerged often. Heat is their major problem as they produce their share as well, but better placement is a good idea.
    Cheers.
    #17
  18. Uller

    Uller Long timer

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    I do believe that no solder is SOP for airline electrical systems. I use waterproof heat shrink on each connection and then again on the outer cover. That stuff is rigid and would probably be enough to hold the wires together by itself. I have absolutely no worries about my soldered connection.

    In regards to the humidity, I was mainly referring to; a. that stock electrical connector going to the stator. It isn't a sealed unit and every one I have looked in was full of crap and had the wires starting to corrode. and b. The starter relay has been the culprit for many on here with running issues. It seems there is a thin piece of wire which corrodes. I've seen it in a few threads and in the HOW.

    When I was researching the R/R units I found a vat of info on Triumph forums. They were using the same (or very similar) shunt style R/R. So many of them were failing that Triumph warrantied them. Anyhow, in laymens terms, what I got was that the shunt style do not work very efficiently. The higher the rpm of the motor the more voltage is put out by the stator. The shunt style will have to work harder due to the increased load and will actually allow less voltage to the battery than at idle. Basically their technology is crap and they fail due to internal heat and poor components not really external heat from the motor and being in an enclosed environment (sure this doesn't help though). Plus, when they fail it is very irregular and in spikes that ruin other components and the battery. It certainly isn't good for the 990 folks with all the sensors. It can lead to running issues IMO.
    #18
  19. Colorado Uli

    Colorado Uli Motociclista Non Elegante

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    Outstanding! I've also replaced my RR twice already and (obviously) have some trust issues with the current one. Everytime one goes out I get straded somewhere and am out a battery, RR, hotel costs, transportation, etc.
    I'm in on this one!

    Thanks!
    #19
  20. Pax

    Pax shazam.

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    If you install will you do a write-up?

    I'm thinking this needs to be on the winter work checklist before adding a new Shorai battery.

    -pax
    #20