Sad to say it took me this long to finally fit a Reiger Factory shock to the 2011 Raga 300. This one is from Stu at Jack's Cycles. Stu is the official Reiger Importer for USA. And yes, this really is a $1,400 retail shock! There will be few takers at that price, but some riders will seek out the best, and are willing pay the price. Some would pay for whole factory bikes, like Bou's, if those were for sale to us normal folk (they are not). I aim to find out if the Factory shock is really a significant step above the OEM Reiger. With the gaggle of adjustments, it'll take a while to figure that out comprehensively. I will first documenting the mounting, springs, some settings, initial impressions, and later specifics on settings versus performance and differences from the OEM 2-adjuster shock. Here are the two shocks, the stock 2-adjuster Reiger typical of Ragas on right, and the Factory version on left: Yesterday was all-day prep for the upcoming 2-day in the canyon country just SE of Amarillo, TX. As you all know, I have mellowed the Raga, first with an Econo ignition module, then with 2.5 degree of retarding the timing globally by modifying the ignition pickup plat to slide move it relative to the flywheel. The bike just keeps getting sweeter and easier to ride. Now with this significant change of shock, I will have more than timing technical to fiddle with at the Texas event. So what the heck is a Factory shock? More adjusters, two of which are unusual, and who knows what strange details inside, as no one I know of has been inside one. Here are the top four adjusters: The remaining adjuster is the typical rebound adjuster at bottom of shock (some newer model GasGas bikes have the shock inverted, so that would be at the top). Changing shocks on a GasGas isn't hard. Just roosen the air boot screw at the carb and remove the subframe. Then remove the top shock/muffler bolt and tilt the shock back. Then the swingarm can be tilted way down so you can access the lower shock bolt to remove the shock. BTW, that blue bolt is titanium. I have a few from discarded Otto Bock 4R31 prosthetic foot adapters from my prosthetic design and manufacturing years. Though I could have just pulled the shock, I went ahead and did all the suspension pivot maintenance re greasing. I was there mid last year, and already they were no longer fully packed, so it was a good thing to do. Buttoned all back up, you have access to three adjusters, the low and high speed compression adjusters, and the one rebound adjuster. The Hydrostop bottoming speed control and Bottom Rebound release speed control screws are masked by the carburetor and head stay, and not easily accessible. I can barely get at one, but it's better to just remove the subframe and upper shock bolt and tilt the shock back. The clicks are hard to discern if you struggle with adjusting. Here a photo of why: Initial impression from yesterday's ride. Tighter feeling with similar adjustments than the original shock (more damping). Backed off on rebound 4 clicks. Better. It did work quite well during its first ride, so no problem with it messing with my head negatively in the event. I'll know more when I go full maximum on the two end-of-travel adjuster today to see what they do (and make sure they are working). When I was moving the shock by hand, and with the two adjusters set to maximum, I didn't feel any change, whereas the other adjusters, event low-speed compression, made big changes. Perhaps the Hydrastop and Bottom Rebound adjusters only work at fast shock shaft speeds? I rode a bike with another of these shocks last year, and the timer for slow shock release after a big, max travel hit was definitely working. It was a bit disturbing the first time I felt it.