removal of the FD. Need a little assistance..

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by roadtrip22, Sep 22, 2012.

  1. roadtrip22

    roadtrip22 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    332
    Location:
    Apex, NC
    So my time has come to remove the FD for repair. The pinion seal is leaking and since I don't have a way to get the whole bike to the shop I've decided to remove the FD and bring it in. Anyways I got everything apart but that big main bolt that bolts the FD to the swing arm is kicking my ass. So from what I could find there is BMW's fancy lock tight on the bolt. I took a heat gun to it and tried but it doesn't seem to want to budge. Am I missing something? Does it have to be really really hot? or is this a 2 person job? one to heat while the other unbolts or heat it and use a impact gun? Are these reverse thread? I don't wanna strip anything out. Any advice would be great help on how to get this damn bolt out.. untill then I'm headed to the store for more beer.. thanks..
    #1
  2. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    13,752
    Location:
    Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA. USA
    i don't like using impact on that one. lots of heat...lots.....then a long bar on your ratchet, maybe a piece of pipe, apply lots of force smoothly, anti clockwise. you did undo the lock nut correct?
    #2
  3. roadtrip22

    roadtrip22 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    332
    Location:
    Apex, NC
    [​IMG]

    theres that lock ring (#6) but I don't know of any lock nut? And no I have not removed that yet? I didn't think that would need to come out.
    #3
  4. MJS

    MJS Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,078
    Location:
    San Felipe, Baja
    No lock nut and #6 snap ring does not need to come out.
    #4
  5. holckster

    holckster dougholck

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,015
    Location:
    Lodi, Ca
    #5
  6. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2004
    Oddometer:
    2,204
    Location:
    S. Central PA
    #6
  7. MotorradMike

    MotorradMike MIL-TFD-41

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,043
    Location:
    Mallorytown Ontario
    His profile says he's got an R1200GS.

    Adjust advice accordingly.
    #7
  8. diabolik37

    diabolik37 Push Dumb C***

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    956
    Location:
    QLD AUS

    I got to ask.

    If you are good enough to remove the FD from the bike, why don't you just replace the seal yourself?

    Am I missing something?
    #8
  9. roadtrip22

    roadtrip22 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    332
    Location:
    Apex, NC

    I contemplated that from what it looks like you have to remove the pinion bolt to access the seal. I don't have the tools to my disposal to re install the set the proper bearing pre-load unless it's just a torque wrench. local shop wants $250 for it. sadly part it like $18. but I rather have it done right instead of guessing with did I pre-load the bearing right..

    Also when I have the seal replaced should I replaced the bearings too?
    #9
  10. MJS

    MJS Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,078
    Location:
    San Felipe, Baja
    It was only about $800 IIRC to have my 05 FD rebuilt. Depending on miles on the bike I would consider that since you're going to the trouble to work on it anyways. Problem may be in getting all of the parts (bearings) to do a complete rebuild. BM has changed what they display on the parts diagram. Old parts are usually still available if you cab get the correct part numbers.

    I'd talk with your dealer about it. I'd want to know the mechanic doing the work has the experience to shim the bearings and set the preload correctly. That appears to be key to a long FD life.
    #10
  11. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    13,752
    Location:
    Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA. USA
    for some reason i too thought it was a 1150....lock nut at number 11 on the left side
    #11
  12. jalal

    jalal Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2005
    Oddometer:
    74
    Location:
    PDX Oregon
    Hello,

    I am in the same boat, trying to remove the final drive on my '05 R1200GS to take it in, and get it rebuild. What size is the torx bolt (item #12) that holds the FD in place ? The biggest that I have is a T50 and it was too small.
    #12
  13. Disco Dean

    Disco Dean Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,385
    Location:
    The Great White North
    If I remember correctly (I might be wrong) you have to remove more than just the FD to change out that pinion seal - as it sits behind the ring/collar that holds everything in - to do that you need the BMW tool or make one on the mill and lather like I did and it took hours just to make the tool.

    [​IMG]

    Good idea to remove the FD and take it in.

    Note - there is no (preload) on this bearing - it is an angled roller bearing (set shoulder to shoulder) so it is shimmed in - pretty simple to change out once you get the thing apart.

    As for the bottom FD bolt the OP asked about - it is a pain and I needed a big extension on my socket to do it with heat - terrible and I thought I would destroy either the wrench or the FD... but it eventually came out.

    So lots of heat like others have said and it is fine - BUT the thread locker is on the inside part so best to heat the bolt side - when you do expect the fibre washer and or seals and bearing on that side to be toast so be ready to replace that - should anyways as it is cheap and easy for you to do it - I bought the bolt-pin-seals-gasket ring and bearings complete.

    D
    #13
  14. jalal

    jalal Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2005
    Oddometer:
    74
    Location:
    PDX Oregon

    I did some measurements with my cheapy calipers,and it looks like it is the same size torx screws as the hand-guard ones. Those are T55 right ?
    #14
  15. scooteraug02

    scooteraug02 Dog Rancher

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2003
    Oddometer:
    4,555
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    This may help http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15784265
    Do you have a wrench on both sides? Looks like you need too.
    [​IMG]

    #15
  16. Disco Dean

    Disco Dean Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,385
    Location:
    The Great White North
    Awesome Job that - I did mine about a month ago and apart from buying some seal pushers and pullers that worked and making my own - it worked out the same for me.

    And, I only made one mistake by putting the bearing on before the seal (dumb ass) but it all worked out well... especially if you follow the directions for heat and don't rush it.

    I have replaced two flanges on my bike and the first one slid on as the manual stated - with just finger and swoosh - clunk... perfect this time it did take a bit of a squeeze. I attribute that to a bit of corrosion (microscopic) on the flange surface and axle surface - but it went on fine...

    My results so far are the same as you and it was pretty easy with the right tools - next time even easier. I would suggest checking the backlash and tooth contact next time to ensure it is all good as mine (2006 1200GS) was off and I had to make some special shims to get it perfect.

    I will take it apart this winter again to double check and also check the needle bearing on the pinion - that is what went first on mine.

    Coolio - good job.
    #16
  17. roadtrip22

    roadtrip22 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    332
    Location:
    Apex, NC
    Yea i got mine off i feel like an idiot now.. I guess we all have our moments..
    #17
  18. scooteraug02

    scooteraug02 Dog Rancher

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2003
    Oddometer:
    4,555
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    I only surfed it. ElGringo is the machinist author.
    #18