removing/replacing swing arm 1150gsa

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by pharme, Jan 3, 2017.

  1. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

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    And so i removed my FD and upon reinstalling it back to swing arm, stripped the pivot threads. i must be the first one who did that. So in this situation (awkward without rear wheel), the only way around seems to me, is to replace the swing arm isn't it? Can't seem to find good documentation on removing / replacing swing arm. Does it need to be hoisted coz i dont have a workshop? Honestly how hard is it, i am only a home mechanic but i do most things myself on this bike. Thanks.
    #1
  2. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    gyah!

    I have a spare , but its for an 1100...
    put the bike on center stand, use a ratchet strap to pull the center stand towards the front wheel.
    put something heavy in front of bike, tie handle bars to that.

    after you get the swing arm free, put a jack or blocks of wood under the exhaust/engine to shore it up.
    #2
  3. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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  4. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

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    i saw this
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/371376445782?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
    thanks mfol for your share.
    Have cross checked that RT has the same part number. It comes with both pivot pins threaded in which is excellent. I have phobia with threads now.
    Yes, i've the bike stand tied with front wheel.
    So about removing/replacing swing arm, will it involve disassembling other parts, any special tools, what about drive shaft... any documentations around here that i can read on. My manual didn't help much.
    #4
  5. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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  6. Beecher Snipes

    Beecher Snipes Fool

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    How about a Clymer manual. They are very helpful. And you are not the first person to strip those threads. There is loctite or equal in there and heat is needed.
    #6
  7. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Sure, if you want poor photos, missing data, and wrong torque values! :lol3
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  8. YesRush

    YesRush Long timer

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    If you have a slide hammer wire it to shaft.That was what I thought would be easy but don't have one.So I used a small pry bar with blunt hit to pop off.
    #8
  9. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    Tie a concrete block to the shaft and throw it behind the bike?

    :D
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  10. Jim Moore

    Jim Moore The Real Deal

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    If you got the final drive off you can get the swingarm off. heat the pins on each side until they're damn hot, just like with the final drive. It slides right off. The driveshaft stays attached.

    It's VERY easy to cross-thread those big bolts, as you have discovered. Do two things to ensure you don't do that again. First, clean old threadlocker off the threads. I mean really clean them. Clean it until you can screw everything together by hand. You don't want to be pondering if you are cross-threaded or just pushing through some old locktite. Second, make doubly sure that everything is lined up when you start screwing in the bolts. It's easy to get one of those heavy pieces cocked a little sideways. I rest the swing arm and final drive on a floor jack while I'm attaching them, just so I'm not wrestling with them as I'm trying to thread the bolts.
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  11. BluByU

    BluByU Been here awhile

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    Yep, easy to mack up the thread, BTDT.

    Use a propane torch to heat up the pins before removal (DAM HOT)
    Use the torch to heat the pins again with a wire brush to clean the threads of the pin. Locktight turns back to liquid when heated.
    #11
  12. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

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    I had torched with mapp gas on the pivot pins but i guess it was not up to temp before i struggled to loosen it. A lesson learnt, gotta go DAMN HOT. Thanks Jim for the leads. Just to make sure that doing this, drive shaft will not have to be removed and i am guessing with the rear shock it'd be just bolt/nut loosening only. ANd next to find the torque # for the pins in front. Some brilliant people here, thank you.
    #12
  13. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

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    Both right side pivots are 160nm.
    Both left side floating pivots are 7nm.
    Locking collars on left side are 160nm.

    Clean and dry fit all before actual install. If not smooth and easy, clean more.
    #13
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  14. Jim Moore

    Jim Moore The Real Deal

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    Speaking of putting it back together, there are a few tricks. First, most people don't use the super-duper locktite. I use the blue stuff so I don't have to heat it the next time I remove it. Second, for both the swingarm and final drive, get the right side started, then get the left side started. Then torque the right side to spec. Then torque the left side to spec. Starting both sides will ensure that the swingarm and final drive are lined up correctly as you put the big torque on the right side.

    Once everything is lined up the right side is easy. The left side is a little tricky. You are supposed to torque the pin to 7 nm (some people say 10-12 nm), then hold that still while you torque the locknut to spec (105 nm on the 1100, maybe different on the 1150. Well how the hell do you do that? BMW makes a special tool. I simply hold the pin in place while I use a big-ass 30 mm open-faced wrench to snug the locknut to "damn tight." Then I use a torque wrench to ensure I have at least 105 nm. All the true aficionados just cringed when they read that, but it's worked for me for a long time.
    #14
  15. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

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    ...And while the swing arm is off, make sure you have the drive shaft marked to correctly reassemble in phase. I put a paint mark on the yoke at the FD and on the shaft so that I can align the dots.

    If not phased correctly, you will introduce a driveline vibration.
    #15
  16. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

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    Mine is an 03 1150gs adventure. Read somewhere that the phasing of drive shaft from certain year onwards is not necessary, can anyone verify this?

    Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk
    #16
  17. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

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    I don't know when BMW started it but easy to see. If yours is indexed the final drive can only go together one way. Look at the teeth on the yoke attached to the FD. The index is basically a double wide tooth.

    If all the teeth look the same you need a paint mark.
    #17
  18. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Mark the pin with a sharpie, then just use a torque wrench. you will know if it moves, though it almost never does.
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  19. Staszka

    Staszka Adventurer

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    I have a question according to this thread. Can you heat the pins through the footrest plate (see attached)? There is a decent hole in there, but I am not sure if the paint or material will be damaged/melted (assuming I am gonna heat the pin only and be aware of the wires etc).

    [​IMG]
    #19
  20. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    I would remove the foot peg bracket, it is pretty easy to discolor the OEM powder coat with a torch.
    #20
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