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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by pharme, Jan 3, 2017.
did you strip the threads when removing the pins?
or when installing them back?
Those pins need to be heated to 247 degrees measured with an infrared thermometer, not any LESS. Mapp gas works well or a good heatgun. Then use blue loctite for reassembly and mark the pins with a sharpie. If you happen to strip some threads on reassembly run them in from the inside to help clean them.
I left the footpeg attached when I did it on my 1150.
Installing back. But high chance that I might have stripped them when removing because I did exert a little to loosen the right one. Hearing from the folks here, I would say i have faulted on getting enough heat temp on the pin. Also i find it hard to push the pin into the nushings and at the same time thread it correctly. Contact points for pin to nushing and pin to thread are the same.
When the used swing arm arrived, I'll make sure I practise a few times to freely thread them in easily in and out, before installing.
Yes mine is indexed. Exactly how you've described it. Missed the indexed point before and it didn't budge at all. Also it might be easier when engage into gear so the shaft doesn't rotate around.
Do yourself a favor and get a heat gun and an infared thermometer. The green loctite will release at 250 degrees F and you will not have to worry about burning paint or setting fire to your bike. Harbor Freight has'em.
I support the swing arm with a block of wood, or my knee. and the final drive with one hand
get down eye level, and use the socket like this BY HAND to start the pivot pins into the threads, it does take some finesse, and some force BY HAND to push while turning.
As to heat, I always just used a HF heat gun. Though I do have an infrared thermometer, I just use the spit test. A little on the finger, then touch the bolt gently. If the spit sizzles, you are ready to remove the fastener.
So, not to hijack the thread, but since Jim weighed in on how to apply heat, I have to ask. Do you prefer the HF heat gun to heat the area around the bolt, or using a soldering iron on the head of the bolt so the heat is more focused and surrounding metal / paint is not subjected to any unnecessary heat stress? I ask because I'll be removing the passenger foot peg mounts soon and I learned loud and clear from another job I did that BMW Loctite is nothing to be messed with.
I do not think a typical soldering iron would produce enough heat.
I am not sure what you have for a soldering iron, but few would come close to heating the bolt enough to liquefy the Loctite. The HF gun will not hurt the paint at all.
You know, just the standard sized iron you'd have laying around the house for small electrical repairs and the like...
That looks more like a light saber...
Might want to turn the volume way, Way DOWN. This guy's vocabulary isn't esp. broad, so he repeats words a lot.
ha, i referred to it quite a bit, hence had the idea with some torching, the pins would 'pop out' quite easily. It's my mistake to assume so.
Ditto on the HF heat gun, way too easy to mess up the paint with propane or mapp torch. I just strapped the heat gun to a cinder block and pointed it at the pin for about 10 min. Easy to get impatient if your holding it. Soldering iron doesn't put out enough heat unless its one of the hot-air solder stations for SMT. The swingarm is aluminum so it conducts the heat you apply from the pin fairly quickly til the whole thing gets hot enough
I did roughly the same thing. Set it up a quarter-inch away from the pin and let it run for ten minutes.
When I did this job on my RT I heated to 250 (Harbor Freight) degrees whatever temp that might really be. It came apart easily. I heated the pins again to clean them up with a wirebrush. I also used acetone and pick to clean the internal threads of ALL remnants of threadlocker.
I used blue locktite and when completed match marked with a paint pen so that I could see at a glance if anything came loose as the blue is not as high strength as a red or green locktite.
Front left right pivot pins removed, using heat gun and watched for sizzling saliva (that's the fun part). Thanks.
Pretty much all removed and ready to pull out the swingarm, but alas am stuck with the bolt holding the rear shock.
Is that bolt also typically locktited?
No, but it's on there pretty good. 43 nm? 50 nm?