removing/replacing swing arm 1150gsa

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by pharme, Jan 3, 2017.

  1. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    231
    Location:
    Portland
    Went thru the repair manual, and it says
    " Spring strut to swinging arm
    (clean thread + Loctite 243).......................... 58 Nm "

    I think this is the 'bolt' i was referring to.
    #41
  2. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    231
    Location:
    Portland
    Here's the page

    Attached Files:

    #42
  3. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    70,840
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    Not typically, but heat it like it is. Sometimes people do use Loctite on them.
    #43
  4. Jim Moore

    Jim Moore Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2001
    Oddometer:
    22,281
    Location:
    Jax, FL
    Interesting. It doesn't mention locktite for my 1100.
    #44
  5. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    231
    Location:
    Portland
    Grrrrr.... heated it for 17mins at one go and not a bit of movement. I was using a hot air gun (=heat gun???) that blows max at 600C temp. I am hoping next to torch it will see something good.
    #45
  6. tallbaldrider

    tallbaldrider still a n00b

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2014
    Oddometer:
    306
    Location:
    Not OTB
    That's how I learned how to do it! Worked great. And then JVB came over and helped me get it back together. You are in good company here. Chris is awesome. Vocabulary and all. Team Monkey Productions on FB.
    #46
  7. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    231
    Location:
    Portland
    Yes, totally agree on this. I know I am in good hands whenever I am striving into sth unknown to me.
    Btw, my rear shock is aftermarket Bitubo, did a check on maxbmw, i believe the bolts are different. Got myself a longer rachet to give better leverage to get the nut out of sight. Will try again tonite.
    #47
  8. Zoef zoef

    Zoef zoef Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    693
    Location:
    Finn√ły Island, near Stavanger, Norway
    To remove the pins, I used a gas burner and moved it all the time, went fine. When I installed the pins, I did not use locktite at all. Just marked the position and checked if the pin moved, which it hasn't till now. Removing the locktite is a PITA.
    #48
  9. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    231
    Location:
    Portland
    Finally had the swingarm off, i have some questions now,

    1) spotted a round box with exposed wire, should this be a concern or it's supposed to go with a cover that's missing?
    2) while I am 'in' now, anything I should do or check (bearings?) as part of maintenance for a 140k mileage bike?
    3) LR bearings (on the front of swingarm) should be greased right?
    4) driveshaft has a coat of white greasy stuff, should i clean it and regrease it?
    5) the rubber boot on the front of swingarm, when installing would be just a wrap over, with cable tie?

    or any other business.
    Thanks heaps.

    Attached Files:

    #49
  10. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    24,733
    Location:
    The Berkeley of Arkansas
    at 140K miles I would remove drive shaft and articulate both U joints and feel/listen for anything noisey or notchy

    also, if you wish to replace the front swing arm bearings, they are common inexpensive bearings ( 30203)

    17x40x13.25
    #50
    rheritage likes this.
  11. Jim H

    Jim H Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 5, 2012
    Oddometer:
    272
    Location:
    NW WA
    1) The "round box with exposed wire" is the gear position indicator switch and it is supposed to have a cover on it. See OEM parts fiche or google for photo.
    2) In second photo near top you can see your clutch slave cylinder and the inlet fitting for the hose from your hand lever master cylinder. You can see that this clutch hose fitting is very rusty, which is a common problem. This may ultimately corrode so deeply that you will experience a blow out. Recommend you consider cleaning the rust and coating the remaining tubing or replacing this clutch hose. Also suggest removal of the last inch or so of the protective sleeve so that it doesn't cause corrosion of the end fitting.
    #51
  12. Jim Moore

    Jim Moore Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2001
    Oddometer:
    22,281
    Location:
    Jax, FL
    I've seen a few of those recently with the same damage / degradation. It's like the plastic cover just falls apart eventually. My 94 R1100RS looks just like that. Weird.
    #52
  13. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    231
    Location:
    Portland
    Expecting a used swingarm to come soon with about 24k miles used, so will keep the OEM bearings intact meanwhile and monitor further. Will grease them upon installation. Thanks MFOL.

    Thank you for the info about the gear position indicator switch, ebay hasnt got one that i can use. I'll see if i can do sth, wire tape it or fabricate a cover temporary to prevent water getting to the spot. As for the clutch hose fitting, now that i know, I will sand it down and coat it with some lubricant (dialectic type maybe) to prevent further rusting. Thanks Jim.
    #53
  14. PukaWai

    PukaWai Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2007
    Oddometer:
    875
    Location:
    Big Bear City, Ca.
    That boot is held in place with springy wires on the inside. IIRC I installed the boot on the swingarm first and then massaged the tranny end on after the swingarm was in place. Requires liberal application of swear words, preferably in German, but eventually you'll get the rubber to pop into place.
    #54
  15. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,698
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast B.C.
    Correct. Boot is retained with the internal ring clip on the swingarm end.
    Liberal coating of the white grease (staburags per manual) on the boot lip and trans flange. Push the swingarm firmly forward and the boot will pop right on.
    You can probably use red rubber grease or white lithium as well.
    #55
  16. pharme

    pharme Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    231
    Location:
    Portland
    Thanks Puka and Addict. Just want to report back that all is well and on the run now. A concern I might have is that with the nushing installed, the left piece going to the final drive, the pivot pin when locked in place has to go way beyond 10Nm torque. To keep it at 7 - 10Nm there's plenty threads left unscrewed. I have tighten it to almost how it looks like on the front left pin of the swingarm. It could be due to the blue threadlock i have put on, took a while to fit in and therefore needed a lot more effort to screw in. I am going to just leave it and monitor further. Thank you all for the confidence rendered, really couldn't have done it without the fabulous support, technically and in spirit. Thank you. I hope in time to come i too would be able to render this kind of support to others. Good day to all. :)
    #56
    GS Addict and lewisjr1 like this.
  17. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,290
    Location:
    The woods and mountains of Alabama
    My lower, rear shock bolt was factory Loctited. No loctite upon reassembly.
    #57