Removing truck wheel with locking lug nut

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by arcanum, Aug 6, 2013.

  1. arcanum

    arcanum Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    317
    Location:
    Arcanum OH
    My BIL died recently,and I am fixing his truck to sell,a '94 Dodge with alloy wheels. My main task is replacing the brakes. While doing so,I noticed that the PO to Tom must have removed a wheel by drilling around a locking lug nut with a drill bit and breaking the alloy wheel recess out:huh. some of the other wheel studs are damaged and I figure that that also might have been related to the same issue.

    I am wondering if any of you have ever had to remove a locking lug nut after you lost the key? How did you do it,or how would you do it? It seems like drilling the stud out would be the way to do it,but what do I know?

    BTW,the brake job went well.Replaced both calipers ,one rotor,and new pads and rear seals for the bearings. Re-packed the bearings.
    The rotor on one side had huge divots an the rear side and had turned a pretty shade of blue.

    Found a new wheel at a local scrap yard,and the net price was $30.00 for the thing after he bought back the old wheel for the metal content:clap Everyone else wanted $100.00 to sell me a wheel. The same guy turned the good rotor for $5.00. And de-mounted /mounted the tire for another $5.00
    #1
  2. anotherguy

    anotherguy Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    6,630
    Location:
    the hills
    Weld a large nut to the locking nut. Then remove it.
    #2
  3. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    13,082
    Location:
    San Francisco,Ca.
    There are sockets with a reverse twist that you use with an air impact gun. The ridges of the twist grab the locking lug nut and spin it out. Easy-Peasy.
    #3
  4. ohgood

    ohgood Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3,216
    Location:
    alabama
    I like the way you talk
    #4
  5. gravityisnotmyfriend

    gravityisnotmyfriend Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,707
    Location:
    ((kg*m)/s^2), IA, USA
    Most auto parts stores sell a locking lug nut remover. Which is why locking lug nuts are pretty useless.

    <iframe width="480" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/LGpuFwEKpUM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


    Not sure why the video won't embed. Here's the link:

    http://youtu.be/LGpuFwEKpUM
    #5
  6. Auto-X Fil

    Auto-X Fil Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2013
    Oddometer:
    702
    Location:
    Montrose, PA.
    Yep, I've done this. Piece of cake.
    #6
  7. mjydrafter

    mjydrafter evil boy for life

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,252
    Location:
    dsm, ia
    Get an impact socket that is slightly smaller than the OD of the lock, pound the socket on to the lock and spin it off. Punch the lock out of the socket in a vise.
    #7
  8. wmako

    wmako bored in NJ

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    664
    Location:
    Andover, New Jersey
    I have worked them around with an air chisel. Probably could be done with a chisel and hammer with enough patients.
    #8
  9. troidus

    troidus Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Oddometer:
    16,344
    I once had to remove an overtightened rounded off standard lug nut that was in a recess. I'd read that you could remove the other four and just break off the stud, but whoever did that must have been some kind of gorilla. Anyway, I ended up drilling out the stud until the lug nut separated, then drove out the remainder and installed a new stud and nut. A hardened, closed-end nut would have been harder to drill through, but an air chisel might fracture one of those.
    #9
  10. rdrce698

    rdrce698 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    202
    Location:
    long Island,New York
    Split it down the middle with a cut off wheel then split it with a tapered chisel. Worked for me
    Pete
    #10
  11. arcanum

    arcanum Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    317
    Location:
    Arcanum OH
    Ok,here's the situation as of now.
    Even though I replaced the front brakes ,installed by someone who obviously did not care, now the rear lug nuts will not come off. By not come off,we are talking about a 3/4' Ingersoll Rand Air Impact. At least 500 Ft Lbs. What the hell kind of air wrench monkey tightened those things??? The rear drum brakes are making a dragging noise. No way am I gonna sell a truck with that issue.
    Once you hammer long enough,the chrome cover on the fancy smanchy lug nut spins free and then still no dice on the remaining lug nut. I do have a spiral damaged nut remover set, but do not have the correct size to bite the nut.
    Since my wheel has a recess, I will go with Troidus' suggestion to drill out the stud. I was already able to determine that a decent drill bit is hard enough to drill out the stud by doing a small test hole. I plan to use only quality drill bits to complete the job as a broken bit would be a disaster.
    Thanks again,will report back in a week or so when I have the chance to work on it again
    #11
  12. Mrmerlin

    Mrmerlin K1300S fast as shi..

    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    341
    Location:
    Philly PA
    Any chance the nuts are unscrewed CW as opposed to CCW,
    it wouldnt be the first time this has happened
    #12
  13. troidus

    troidus Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Oddometer:
    16,344
    I use silver anti-seize.
    #13
  14. Bigger Al

    Bigger Al Still a stupid tire guy

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2004
    Oddometer:
    8,011
    Location:
    Auburn, CA
    If the truck is a Dodge 1/2-ton pickup, then the lug nuts were 3/4" across the flats with the tin covers. Without, they're 18MM, and can be a real first-class bitch to get off with either a 19MM or 3/4" socket. Get ahold of an 18MM impact socket and give it another go.
    #14
  15. Dave in Wi

    Dave in Wi Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,053
    Location:
    Madison WI (40 Square Miles Surrounded By Reality)
    What a great idea THOSE things were.
    #15
  16. Bigger Al

    Bigger Al Still a stupid tire guy

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2004
    Oddometer:
    8,011
    Location:
    Auburn, CA

    No shit. :lol3
    #16
  17. MitchG

    MitchG Iron Collector

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    504
    Location:
    Fort Simpson, NT
    Jeeps have them as well, a real pleasure in the bush.......
    #17
  18. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4,748
    Location:
    Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
    :splatThem things...GM was using them in the 70's and later. Replaced on sight on all my vehicles ever since with the good ones. I was the only one in the shop with the "special" sockets to remove them after the chrome cap came off, they never took the impact well so we did most of them with the lug nut wrench.

    Not many sockets around in the x/32's. I think I still have them.:wink:
    #18
  19. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    7,755
    Location:
    NorCal
    Use a 12pt socket that you have to pound on the lug nut. Remove with breaker bar, not an impact gun. Have done many of these.
    #19
  20. HapHazard

    HapHazard Waiting for Gudenov

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,370
    Location:
    Central CT
    Also, squirt 50/50 acetone & ATF on the fronts and backs of the lugs and let it soak.
    Couldn't hurt.

    Also, heat can be helpful.

    Good luck!
    #20