Replacing the Internal Battery in an X76 Garmin

Discussion in 'Mapping & Navigation' started by tsizmo, May 19, 2008.

  1. Freddie Rides

    Freddie Rides Can't find the door

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    Maybe not pertinent now so long after the fact . . . but . . .

    1. My antenna seemed to have some kind of locktite on it -- blue in color -- so I had to be a little forceful with a pair of needle-nose pliers angled around the connection housing. Get the tips in the nut notches and don't crush connection.
    2. I cut a strip out of an aluminum can -- as wide as the broken tab and about 3/4" long. Sand both sides to get any paint/coatings off. Use a needle-nose to slide the piece through the silicone. Position it so that it lays over the good contact on the back and creates a new contact on the front. You can do this without taking the whole case apart -- just need to take the battery out.
    #81
  2. Freddie Rides

    Freddie Rides Can't find the door

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    After reading all the reservations about replacing the internal battery -- I have good news: It's Easy!

    The best way to remove the old battery is indeed to cut the tabs off with a sharp, thin knife. Bend the battery up gently and hold it with a pair of pliers while carefully PRYING, not cutting off the tabs.

    I wasn't patient enough to wait for delivery of that new battery with tabs that everybody's talking about so I went to Ace Hardware & bought a Duracell 1025 battery -- it's a 3 volt battery about the same thickness as the old battery but roughly 2x the diameter -- it still fits in the case.

    ANYBODY CAN SOLDER IN THE NEW BATTERY. I scuffed up the battery with some 60 grit sandpaper (rough). I bent both tabs almost vertical, cut a piece of resin flux solder about 1/8" long and laid it/wedged it between the battery and the bottom tab (negative side of the battery). Holding the battery immovable with a pair of pliers and using a 35 watt soldering iron, I held it on the connector until the solder melted like a cheese sandwich between the tab & the battery. It took all of about 8 seconds.

    I bent the battery down and after making sure the battery was cool to the touch, repeated the procedure on the top/positive side. I double-checked the tabs to make sure they weren't shorting on each other, checked the battery voltage: 3.2. Done.

    My main battery is a different story. After trying to charge it after sitting unplugged for over a year, I get the "Battery Missing" message. This site recommends charging the battery with an external charger, the idea being that if you put enough juice into the battery, the 276 will recognize it again and start charging it. Since I already had a charger connected to my 950, I took a couple wires and with the charger still connected to the bike, "jumped" the 276 battery from the 950 battery cables. It sparked briefly when I first touched the terminals. Is that a bad sign? The Battery Tender went off, presumably because it detected an incorrect connection even though it was still connected to the 950. I released the wires from the 276, put them back on, and this time the charger stayed on and charging. I jumped the battery for about 15 seconds. I figure being DC, the difference in voltage wouldn't be an issue. Maybe I was wrong. Now when I connect the power to the GPS, it says "Charge Complete". But it still isn't charging. Did I fry my main battery? Was it already beyond recovery?

    Or maybe there's something screwy with my broken-connector fix from #2 in the above post?
    #82
  3. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    No, that site recommends charging using an external charger direct to the battery cell bypassing the charging circuitry on the battery. You did do this right? You didn't try and connect it to the external charging connectors on the battery?

    So you connected the Garmin Battery (7.4v 2200mA/hour) directly to the 12v motorcycle battery which has to be able to produce enough current to turn the starter motor. You didn't give this a lot of thought did you :lol3 2200mA/hour is it's output capacity of the Garmin (Samsung) battery and generally you charge at 1/2 this rate which would be about 1A/hour.

    When I fixed mine I think I used a 12v 1/2A power brick and some resistors to get the voltage in line, current was arguably high but only charged it for 15 mins and then let the Garmin charger do the rest.

    edit: If you connect a voltmeter to the battery cell terminals (i.e crack open the case of the battery) what does it say for voltage?
    #83
  4. Freddie Rides

    Freddie Rides Can't find the door

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    Right on all counts. I had two thoughts: 1. The battery is 8 years old and most likely at the end of its useful life and 2. I didn't feel like tearing the battery case apart and 3. I don't have a charger with the correct voltage/amperage (or even one I could modify) and 4. Resistors -- what are they? and 5. Maybe, just maybe, this will work. Is that a little thought or a lot?

    I suppose if I hadn't been so impatient I would have bypassed the charging circuitry and used a standard 1.5 volt battery with a paper clip connector for a few minutes. I imagine that circuitry is welded together and that's why I get the "Charge Complete" message. Oh, well. :1drink
    #84
  5. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    The one I fixed is easily that old. Been working fine ever since.

    As the URL you linked makes clear the entire point is to bypass the smart charging circuitry on the battery. Directly connecting a motorcycle battery to the cell terminals is a bad idea, directly connecting it to the charging electronics is, well, err .......
    #85
  6. Freddie Rides

    Freddie Rides Can't find the door

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    I'll take a look before tossing it in the trash -- I mean recycle it. I'm pretty sure the charging circuit is toast even if the cells are still good.
    #86
  7. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    After all this I figured your preferred method of disposal would be incineration :D
    #87
  8. Freddie Rides

    Freddie Rides Can't find the door

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    1.487 v
    #88
  9. 9Dave

    9Dave Bazinga!

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    It's not that hard to do. Just need to do it carefully.

    I'm not sure what you are referring to about prying the battery. I just used a low wattage soldering iron, heated the tabs at the circuit board and removed the battery.
    #89
  10. Freddie Rides

    Freddie Rides Can't find the door

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    I left the tabs in the board, pried the tabs off the battery & replaced the battery. (Soldered the old tabs to the new battery w/o taking them off the board.)

    Got a new main battery for around $30. It all works like a charm.

    Anybody tried gluing the stock connector that keeps falling apart when you try to unplug the unit?
    #90
  11. Wadester

    Wadester Rides a dirty bike

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    Hello ya'll.

    I found and followed this thread a couple of years back - but I didn't keep up with turning the unit on, and the replacement battery died.

    So I got another battery, opened the unit up, warmed up the soldering iron, clipped the top lead off the battery, held the battery with tweezers while heating up the lower lead - no problem. Then I held the other lead with tweezers while heating it, and again, off it comes. Except:
    [​IMG]

    It brought the pad up with it! Crap. So, I can still see the trace that went to the pad, and the "plate thru". What's the best approach for connecting? I can glue down a foil replacement pad - but then I have to connect to the trace and the battery tab. Would it be better to solder a wire to the trace? Metallic glue? I don't want to kludge it too bad - or at least no worse than it is currently.

    Thanks for any help.
    #91