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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Parepin, Nov 25, 2012.
So a KLR engine for sale in the flea market.
It was like $450 or best offer.
Then changed to BEST OFFER.
Even has video of the engine running.
If I find the link, I'll post it here as an edit.
Here it is
I would have cut the frame clean thru where the other frame broke, drilled the factory frame for plug welds and stuffed full tubes inside the existing tubes, shoved it all back together and welded it up. What you did will definitely help, just another way to skin a cat.
It's about $800 in parts to fully rebuild a KLR engine, new bearings and a 685 kit. 16 hours labor. Something to shoot for.
Nice work on your project!!
I was just thinking ~
This thread needs more Alex
I need an engine that can be upgraded with a big bore kit. I was aiming for a mid to upper 90's engine. Anything before a 96 can't be upgraded, which is why I didn't keep the engine that came with that '94 Donor bike. The engine that I've got now still has a strong bottom end. There is nothing in there that makes me thing I couldn't get several more YEARS out of that bottom end. As for the top end, I just keep wearing them out. Valves, sleeves, pistons. But all this is talk unless I've got the cash to wave around.
I considered that, but I would have been all in at that point. If you cut the frame, you're halfway to a V-twin swap already. I just can't open that can of worms..... yet.
A great and inspiring thread. It is somehow starting to remind me of the anecdote about the 100-year old axe (that's had it's blade changed three times and the handle twice).
no one can accuse you as being a weight wienie.
That's a shitload of work to put into something that, in the end, is still a KLR.
I admire your fortitude, though.
I think you would be surprised just what this KLR can do. I've already converted a few to the milk crate.
You have been warned.
that's wrong, you need to pipe the bottom-outlet to the rad's, and the top one (connected in your pic) is indeed the overflow, just let it leak if it wants to. Plug the one outlet just under the cap.
C'mon, man. Give me a little more credit than that. Everything is plumbed together and functioning fine. That little tab you see at the bottom of the tank isn't a hose fitting. It's a solid piece of extrusion. I assume it fits into something on the Yamaha it came from to add some stability. The hose at the top goes in, through the rubber cap, and to the bottom of the tank. This allows for the siphoning action that brings the coolant to and from the radiators. The tank's overflow is just to the left of the rubber cap. There is a hose on it now, routed down towards the bottom of the bike.
As someone who owned a welding and metal fabrication bussiness i just want to say that its damn nice to see someone not overthink the job with jigs, tig welding, heat treating etc!
Making things work with what you have and having it come out bitchin' is, to over use a horrible cliche, "what its all about!"
"Fuck the HAZ"...
LOVE all the pics with Janis in the background.
I've wathched the young FN do his work for like ( about 288 miller lites +/- 60 or so) and the dude
knows what he is doing. I would hire him in a second but? (we know the rest)
P.S. I should start that sucker and give it a real ride. DIG., Sorry,BYE.,Buzzed again.
Thanks for the update!
Cool post, brother. The infamous KLR has bitten more than one of us here and there and for some reason, we put up with them, pat them on the head and keep em going.
Yours, perhaps, should have been put down with a shovel to the back of the head....
but I respect you for your efforts.
The KLR is like the stone hammer of motorbikes.
"A firm, satisfying ride with ALL of the information from the road being transmitted and shared with the operator".
Inspiration to jump on my KLRer and head out into the unknowen!