Richmond Va chatter

Discussion in 'Southeast, The Lair of the Dragon - The Blue Ridge' started by mikeinrichmond, Dec 19, 2008.

  1. burtonrider3889

    burtonrider3889 Been here awhile

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    Richmond, VA
    Just got back in from jgiacobbe's house. Much thanks is owed for helping me lower my stock linkage and forks. Plus he helped me get my stock spark arrestor back in. Now all I need to do is try and get my suspension set up for my weight and I will be good to go.

    I would possibly be down for a ride Saturday. I know I'm going to ride I just don't know how far.
  2. toddzacker

    toddzacker Just the Shame

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    That was pretty sweet...I think it's time to go riding...who has a GoPro!!!
  3. burtonrider3889

    burtonrider3889 Been here awhile

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    I have a go pro!
  4. jgiacobbe

    jgiacobbe Long timer

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    Do you end up removing and disassembling the forks or do you siphon the oil out? Never did anything with forks before.
  5. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

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    Just remove the forks, remove the caps and springs (and emulators if you've installed some) and dump the forks to drain. Usually let them drain upside down for an hour or so.

    Pushrod forks have super simple internals. I did a full disassemble once to install emulators because you've also got to drill out the stock valving holes to allow for full flow to the emulator. Since then I've just removed and drained them.

    With 27, 000 miles on the clock I think you'll pull some dark and dirty oil out of those things.
  6. Jeff Munn

    Jeff Munn Just along for the ride..

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    Eddy,
    If you don't get him, I'd be happy to answer any questions you have about the Trans-Lab, as long as they don't involve the new section from Goose Bay to Cartwright. Haven't ridden that yet. But you can read my ride report here if you have the time. Brian (BECoyote) and I did it a while back. I'm sure most of the info is still good.
    Goose Bay and Beyond

    I'd be happy to help out in any way. I still want to go back, and may take a Richmond contingent, to do the entire route without the ferry. But alas, this summer is already booked.

    jeff
  7. btblueskies

    btblueskies BTBlueSkies

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    Richmond
    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HQvmpQi8rad8vmAH-tD7EdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KbMBXNW7vzE/UO4TPEo-TgI/AAAAAAAADi4/wS16aqi21HE/s144/Trailhed.jpg" height="141" width="144" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/116503219624691437716/Adventure?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Adventure</a></td></tr></table>

    Ok... I am starting to figure out how to post images again... my how stuff changes fast. As a software developer... I sorta tune out web changes anymore... now all of a sudden I have to remember how to do it :)

    Here is a snapshot from google earth with a yellow trailhead pin in the lower right and the well known intersection in the upper left.

    I am trying to figure out how to actually post a live link. I'll keep trying.
  8. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

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    I'm pretty sure that's the route Eddie(?) took a bunch of folks on Vstroms and GS's earlier this year.
  9. MADSTROM

    MADSTROM Long timer

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    Powhatan, Va


    Looks suspiciously familiar. :lol3 :muutt:eek1 :muutt:lol3
  10. biker128pedal

    biker128pedal Super Lurker

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    It is not hard to do. If you can change your oil and remove the front wheel you can do it. A 15/16 wrench fits the fork caps. This fits a little snugger than a 24 mm. Loosen this before removing the fork. Remove pre-load. Just torque everything back correctly. Ya don't "tighten the piss out of all the fasteners."

    See here: http://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom...stions-discussions/75973-fork-oil-change.html
  11. Charles

    Charles Formerly known as Dr Whipit

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    Location:
    West End of Richmond, VA
    If you still want to explore new riding areas like off of Woolridge, I'd love to give it a go. There may be something off Patterson just west of 288 that I may want to try also.
  12. burtonrider3889

    burtonrider3889 Been here awhile

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    Yea that sounds good. Most likely I will be riding from around noon Saturday to dark since the wife has to go into work. There's also a trail starting where the Tuckahoe road exit ends off 288. It's going to be a development at some point I think. I leads to Broad street and there's people working at the entrance at Broad, but from the Tuckahoe side it's desolate. Type 37.625755,-77.656528 into google maps and check it out. You will see the trail pick up right where the road ends. It looks pretty straight forward, but with all the woods off to the side of the trail I'm banking that there are some trails off of it.
  13. Guy Young

    Guy Young Long timer

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    Jeremy, just sticking a long tube down into the forks will allow you to suck out the fluid (siphoning won't work), for sure, but, the suction tube stays inside the internal damper tube. Most/all of the grunge collects on the outside of the damper tube at the base of the slider. You cannot get all of it out by this method.

    Pulling the tubes, invert, pump and drain is the only way to get it out.

    I wrote the following procedure for the post-95 Concours. The procedure is pretty much the same for your forks, but please note the oil quantities are for that bike. Yours will probably be different.

    FORK OIL CHANGE

    1. Remove the plastic (not absolutely necessary, but makes it easier to get to the lower fork clamp bolts.

    2. Loosen the four (two per side) fork tube pinch bolts on the top clamp + the two (one per side) Allen head handlebar clamp screws. Absolutely necessary to be able to loosen the caps since the pinching action constricts the tube around the fork caps.

    3. Back out the preload adjusters to the last ring (or until you feel resistance) and break the top fork cap(s) loose. DO NOT loosen these any more than a couple of turns out, or try and remove the caps now.

    3a. Elevate the bike and remove the front wheel. Do not allow the calipers to hang on the brake lines.

    4. With the weight of the bike now off of the front suspension, remove the caps from the top of the tubes.
    CAUTION: There is some pre-load spring pressure on the cap so be prepared once the threads clear. Remove the springs slowly so they don't pull oil out with them and make a mess.

    5. Remove the fender.

    6. Loosen the two (2) bottom triple clamp bolts (per side) that secure the tubes.

    7. Grasping the tube. Use a back and forth twisting motion while exerting a downward force and work the tube out of the clamps. Repeat for the other side. Pay attention which side is the left and right.

    8. Invert the tube and dump the fork oil in a suitable container, pumping the tube/slider to get as much of the yucky oil out as possible.

    9. Add a couple hundred cc of low flashpoint solvent (I like kerosene or diesel fuel) per tube, then pump the tube up and down several times to loosen up some the crud in the bottom. Invert the tube and dump the solvent into a suitable container, pumping the tube/slider to get as much out as possible. Repeat this process several times for each tube.

    10. Add a couple hundred cc of low weight 'cheap' fork oil to each leg and work the tube up and down. This is to dilute any solvent that be be left in the tube. Invert the tube and dump the fork oil into a suitable container, pumping the tube/slider to get as much out as possible.

    11. Reinstall the tubes in the bike tightening the the lower clamp pinch bolts only.

    12. Add the fork oil. The rest is pretty much the reverse of removal. Follow the directions in the Manual for the proper torque values.

    Fork oil by volume: 379cc per leg (completely dry after full disassembly)
    Fork oil by volume: 330cc per leg (changing only)
    **Fork oil by level ('94-'up): 171mm from the top of the inner tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed

    ** Best method

    NOTE: You have not yet installed the spring(s).

    13. Now the fun part..... getting the cap back on. Like all things, there's a procedure that helps.

    14. In turn, take each cap and place on the top of the tube it will going in during final assembly. Slowly rotate the cap and determine the point where the threads just begin to grab. Using a magic marker, pencil - something - make a mark on the cap so you can reference it with a fixed spot on the top clamp (the slit in the clamp works). Repeat this for the other cap.

    15. The whole reason for this procedure is to help get the cap started when the springs are in place. Trying to push down on the cap (against spring pressure) and turn it to get the threads started (without cross-threading) can be a real PITA.

    Another hint would be to use a speed wrench. These make it easy to apply a downward force and turn at the same time.

    16. Finally, install the springs and their flat spacers. Position the cap in place so your alignment mark is just to the left of the fixed reference you've established. With a straight downward force, push the threaded portion of the cap into the bore of the tube. Insuring that it is straight, rotate the cap clockwise at least a 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. The threads should have engaged easily to the point that you didn't even notice. Slowly relax downward pressure to make sure the threads are engaged, and if so, continue tightening the cap. Gorilla tight isn't necessary. Once you tighten the top clamp bolts, the tube will constrict and keep the cap in place.

    17. Repeat for the other cap.

    18. Replace the front wheel, calipers, and fender. Pump the front brake so the pistons will have moved back out to the disks BEFORE riding.

    19. Double check all pinch bolts that secure the fork tubes to the triple clamps.

    20. Replace any plastic that was removed.

    .
  14. burtonrider3889

    burtonrider3889 Been here awhile

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    Richmond, VA
    To add to my last post I just coincidentally saw an article saying Eagle Construction just purchased the land here (google maps, type 37.658828,-77.647569 in). That is off of the area I was just talking about. It looks like a dirt bike track of some sort. At first I was worried it may be someone's farm or yard, but now a developer owns it so I wouldn't be too worried with exploring it.

    You can see the land they bought here as well http://www.richmondbizsense.com/images/Markel-Eagle-Nuckols-Farm.pdf.jpg. It won't show you the trails cut in on that map though so you're better looking on google.
  15. Charles

    Charles Formerly known as Dr Whipit

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    Nov 13, 2011
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    West End of Richmond, VA
    Cool. Just name a time and place to meet. I'll be on a blue XT600.
  16. burtonrider3889

    burtonrider3889 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2010
    Oddometer:
    899
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    Where do you live?
  17. freaking RT

    freaking RT will golf for food

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    Nov 16, 2001
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    39,627
    Location:
    just outside Richmond, VA
    how much?

    and :scratch who would trade a RT for a HD? :dunno
  18. Dirtmonkey8

    Dirtmonkey8 VA is for Riders

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2009
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    1,700
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    I called the Forest Service and the gate I was talking about is closed as well as all of the other awesome roads that close for the winter. They re-open April 1st, but in my experience it seems they take a while to get them all open and this one, being where it is, is one of the last to open. I've seen it closed on Memorial Day weekend on that end. They schedule all of the gates to close January 5th to April 1st. It is possible that the gate is actually still open, but there is only one way to find out. If you guys have not seen this before it is an excellent dual sport resource:

    http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5392127.pdf

    I found the road numbers I was interested in and just got off the phone with the Glenwood/Pedlar Ranger District's office. The road you wanted to go up was 1167 from Map 28. When you plan a trip out there again, after winter, you should check out 1881 on Map 30. You can spot the rd # centered left to right about 1/4 way down from the top. If you like jumping waterbars it's a blast. It is the one with the tunnel under the Parkway if you have been through there or have heard mention of it. Ride em' while you can. They have very little money to maintain roads so when they become heavily damaged they close them. They are also closing them because folks do not stay on the roads.
  19. ddlewis

    ddlewis Long timer

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    South/central Va
    Not surprised to hear that all the gated roads are closed in January. That's a great link to the fs roads pdf.

    I have been led down that FS road with the tunnel before but didn't know where I was or how to get back. :D Cool, I'll have to check that out again when it opens back up. Watched a video of dljocky through there not long ago.. He couldn't tell me how to get back there either. :lol3 Probably your video.
  20. Eddy Alvarez

    Eddy Alvarez Always dreaming of the next big ride!

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    Oct 21, 2008
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    Location:
    Chester,VA
    I am riding on Sunday but on Saturday, I am looking for someone to help me do yardwork (blow/pick up leaves, cut/spread a bunch of monkey grass, spread mulch, etc) from around 0800-1630. Is $10/hr plus drive time and free lunch fair? PM me if interested, all work confidential.