Rigid LED lights - need ideas on mounting switch

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by mknight, Feb 28, 2013.

  1. mknight

    mknight Been here awhile

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    Last year I installed some Rigid D2 lights (2005.5 950 Adv.). They're awesome and still performing well, but I'm struggling with the location and mounting of the switch. I had originally bought a PIAA wiring and switch harness. When I received the Rigid lights, I discovered they already had a switch with them so I sold the PIAA switch. This is the switch that came with the Rigid lights:
    [​IMG]

    I don't really want to drill a hole in my fairing and would prefer to keep the light switch accessible on my handlebars (left side). I find that when I use them at night, they are so bright, that I've got to be able to quickly reach the switch if encountering oncoming traffic.

    I had jerry-rigged together a mount using a bicycle reflector handlebar clamp but it broke and it also got in the way when I turned the bars sharply (with the KTM tank bag).

    Anybody got ideas or done something similar?
    #1
  2. traveltoad

    traveltoad Aaron S

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    Why not tie them into your high beam circuit?
    #2
  3. Mud Bucket

    Mud Bucket Adventurer

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    I used the PIAA system myself. Works great with a separate fuse and relay. The switch is small and easily mountable. I used a small fab'ed piece of aluminum so its right by my high beams. Easy movement of the thumb for on/off. The Rigid switches are good but more effort to mount. I used them on my 525 on a light system like the Trail tech but all of it is over the front of the fork. I'll take a pic and post it up
    #3
  4. DLH

    DLH Lurch the Lurker

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    ^^^^This...

    That's what I did, using the relay that came with them.
    High-beam switch on = Rigids + high beam Headlight
    Low-beam switch on = Low beam headlight only
    #4
  5. mknight

    mknight Been here awhile

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    I really like this. Can I just use the stock headlight switch? The only time I ever run them is in tandem with my hi-beams so this would be the perfect solution.

    I'm not an electrical master, but can work my way through most basic things.
    #5
  6. Dagwood_55

    Dagwood_55 Long timer

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    Buy the HDB top clamp and install the switch into it. Then if you get the top
    clamp, might as well get the handguards and the mirrors that go with it all.

    Then you be happy, happy, happy!!
    #6
  7. traveltoad

    traveltoad Aaron S

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    Easy... tap into the highbeam power line to switch the relay.
    #7
  8. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    The LED's are so bright, especially at night, I found there are situations where you want to use regular high beam with out the LED, so I switched mine separately. I have HDB hand guards and the bar top clamp I have had 4 switch positions, so that is where the switch is. HDB provides a led position above each switch which is handy for day-time use as very visible running lights. They are on the ACC2 circuit (switched) along with my heated grips.

    Left-most switch below:

    [​IMG]
    #8
  9. Peanuts

    Peanuts Long timer

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    You could modify your right handlebar switch to same as the 950. 3 positions. Could have lights off (for non highway use); Lights on stock lights only; Lights on and LEDS on with high beam.

    Pretty straightforward stuff.

    I did something similar with my LED lights, but I made it more complex by using a dimmer to use the LEDS as DRLs then fill power for main beam

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=821080
    #9
  10. timbo45

    timbo45 Been here awhile

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    Forget the switch tie them in to the high beam switch . I installed the switch and its sucks haveing to switch the lights everytime a car appears . If you tie it into the headlight switch just dim your headlights and they turn off
    #10
  11. Ranger Rob

    Ranger Rob Out and about...

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    I run RIGID Duallys on my 990ADV and love them.

    Personally i do not see the point in just using them as "Hi-beam" additions. You've paid good money for the lights so why use them for 2% of your riding time only? :huh

    I got the clear lens (spot pattern) lights and run them as Amber daytime RUNNING LIGHTS with just the addition of the Amber protective covers.
    At night i just change the covers to clear (or none at all if your tight for $) and then they are my SPOT LIGHTS controlled by the Hi-beam switch. :D

    This is all brought about by a 3 position toggle switch when you first set the lights up. The switch is an ON - OFF - ON toggle switch wired like this;

    • Even though the lights are low current draw i run a dedicated relay
    • The relay gets power directly from the battery
    • The relay is earthed as required
    • Naturally the "output" pin on the relay is connected to the lights
    • Here's where the 3 position switch comes in to play. (There are 4 wires attached to a possible 6 positions at the back of this switch) It's not hard. Don't be scared!
    • To run the lights in RUNNING LIGHT mode one of the "ON" positions the switch has a "hot wire" +DC brought from the switched Accessory circuit. The switch closes the contact that sends power to the "switch" terminal of the relay. When the ignition is turned off, so are the lights....no flat batteries if you forget to switch your running lights off.
    • For Hi-beam SPOT LIGHTS mode the other side of the switch has a "hot wire +DC from the Hi-beam wire going to the headlight. The switch closes the contact that sends power to the "switch" terminal" of the same relay. With the toggle switch in this position the lights will come on with your Hi-beam automatically. No extra switching every time a car appears. Additionally, as the hi-beam circuit is also switched by the ignition, when the ignition is turned off, so are the lights....no flat batteries if you forget to switch your head lights off.
    So....in short, 1 switch, 2 positions, 2 easy and fail safe uses from the same lights :wink:


    I am a big fan of redundancy in systems and TIDY wiring without crappy joints that will cause grief down the track.


    Just my 2 cents worth....


    Rob
    #11
  12. Sacal

    Sacal Been here awhile

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    #12
  13. mknight

    mknight Been here awhile

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    All good feedback guys and I appreciate the responses. Last night I pulled the stock switch (left side) apart and wired it into the high-beam circuit. I tidied it up as best as possible and it seems to work great.

    I'll give this a try for now as it is much better and cleaner than what I had previously.
    #13
  14. Katoom119

    Katoom119 Mmmm....Orange Kool-aid

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    If you find you don't like it, 3 minutes with some 90* angled aluminum from Lowe's works great when you clamp it between the handlebar clamps.

    [​IMG]
    #14
  15. Unstable Rider

    Unstable Rider Moto Fartografist

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    #15
  16. Qwik

    Qwik Adrenaline Addict

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    [​IMG]
    This is how I have the switch for my lights.
    #16
  17. Unstable Rider

    Unstable Rider Moto Fartografist

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    I like dat. :evil

    who's switch be dat?
    #17
  18. Qwik

    Qwik Adrenaline Addict

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    Its by IPF and its mounted with Velcro. It has indicator lights on it as well.
    #18
  19. Mttodd

    Mttodd Adventurer

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    Have you considered using the dimmer that Black Dog Cycles sells? Has multiple dim levels with your low beam, then full output with high beam. No switch required, (LED's will be on with headlight). It is actually a relay/ dimmer combo that simplifies all the inputs. I bought one for my D2's
    #19
  20. smj

    smj Been here awhile

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    Can you give us a source for this switch? I can find IPF lights in a kit, that appears to have the switch, but come up empty looking for the switch alone. Thanks!
    #20