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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by kirkster70, Oct 3, 2010.
I could use some help getting decent penetration myself. Too bad this thread is all guys.
Gettin' all fancy...
Lids fabbed, 1 1/2" stainless footman loops installed.
Weight of an 18"L x 9"W x 14"H pannier. Hmmm... why so much?
Okay. Now that makes sense. The beefy latches weigh 0.75 lbs each.
...getting loaded onto a big brown truck bound for Ohio...
Whew! I can go to bed now! Good thing it's my Friday. I'm beat!
Those look pretty cool!
Looking Forward to them showing up on my doorstep!!!
Thanks, Jim! I took your lower design and ran with it.
You should have them Monday. Thanks for taking a chance and flying Rookie Airlines!
you had them powder coated aluminum color? :huh
That would be the natural finish...
Coater isn't finished yet with two other sets.
Okay, now I decide to "fix" the pannier experiment that didn't go as planned when I tried bending a different way...
I weld the bevels together, and nothing is square because I didn't get a full bend in the brake on the bevels. I tweak the bevels by using the pannier as a trampoline. Here is a demonstration of how strong .080 aluminum really is...and I'm putting 170lbs on the weakest part. Now you can see why I couldn't just hand bend the incomplete bevel bends...
Someone mail me some clothes, please.
...and I had to JUMP up and down to get something remotely resembling square to weld the back/bottom piece.
Now imagine how strong they've become. The bends on these panniers look like a dog's rear end, so I will not sell them as a top shelf product. They were nicer than scrap, so I did decide it was best to finish them off as best as I could. They will be on that unmentionable site starting tomorrow at one penny...
I'm just looking to get my material cost back. They should be a nice upgrade from ammo cans or the like.
That kinda ticks me off... I wish I could get something that nice looking. Been at it for about a month and I can get some nice looking welds on the thicker stuff but I'm trying to make a gas tank and every now and then I can get some beads to look real nice. 85% of the time they look like REAL dog poo- not that nice pretty stuff you've got there. Thought I had practiced enough to finally do some actual welding on the tank. Grrr....
Thinkin I might need something with a lower amp range and maybe a foot pedal. *sigh*
So is that one continuous weld, or do you have to stop every now and then to let it cool off?
This is really enlightening! I knew they would be strong, but I didn't realize how strong. I bet you could easily rest 500 pounds on one of those bags turned upside down with ot without a lid.
Someone is going to be very lucky to get your blems!
PS I would give you some work clothes, but I doubt 2X would fit in a safe way around all your machinery!
Looks great. I love the footman loops.
I installed footman loops on my Jesse's and KLR boxes. It's so easy to strap on my tent and sleeping bag.
I used small stainless screws backed with washers and nylok nuts. I put some RTV under each one to weatherproof the boxes. I thought about backing them with some small rectangular aluminum pieces, but the washers are working just fine.
That's one complete pass with no stops. I'm also "freehanding" (not resting either hand on the box for support). I've learned to anchor each elbow into my waist area and pivot my arms from there.
I've been seriously TIGging for about a year now. I was just thinking tonight how quickly one can get good by TIGging every single week. Some pages back someone made mention of getting good enough and then forgetting due to time between projects, and that is spot on. I think I have rapidly improved solely to having the hood time on a day to day or week to week basis. You WILL get good by repetition.
It almost becomes a reflex after a while. What I mean by that is that sometimes my joints arent 100% perfect. One may overlap by as much as an eigth inch or so. But as you go, you learn to burn that edge in and wrap it around with no filler and maintain your bead heading and width. Then, as the joint comes to the part that IS proper, you start introducing filler. When all done, it all looks the same. That's sort of a reflex of knowing what to do after TIGging for so long.
Another thing I've learned is that the bottom will not drop out if you get the pedal control down. So, say you're not manipulating the filler very smoothly and need to stop for a second to get your filler hand acting right, there's no need to stop the weld. You probably want to let up a bit, but the bottom will not fall out of the weld if you modulate the pedal just right. You can sit in that same spot all day maintainig the puddle. Once I learned that little trick, life was good! I didn't feel like I had to roll to keep from falling out.
Just stick with it. It takes determination, but once you get it down, you feel like doing backflips! I still see much room for improvement in my welds, but I'm very happy with where I am right now.
That settles it. Time to sell my old school welder to help fund the purchase of something with a foot pedal... Anyone in the Idaho area interested in buying an older Century 5 Star set up for TIG?
Also curious- what amp range are you using for that thickness of aluminum?
It looks like there would be some way to retrofit your model for a pedal or even a finger remote of some sort. I'm no expert, but someone should know.
Cyberweld and BR welding supplies out of MD (I think that's right) have helped me in the past for figuring things out. Just add dot com to cyberweld, and the other folks have a strong presence on ebay...
That is pretty amazing, isn't it? Imagine what my bumper will do to Bambi.
My KLR fell over in the concrete parking lot at work last year due to a slow leak in the rear tire. Just the outer, lower pannier corner got scuffed, and that was my very first set ever made. I would like to think I have gotten better on building the panniers, so they are probably even stronger now.
I also got a scuff on the lower forkleg. Nothing else touched down at all, and the fuel tank was 8" away from touching. Built-in crashbars! The bar ends and mirrors were 100% damage free. I was amazed by that.
I am convinced that OEM hardbags on an ST1100 saved my leg in a bambi strike a couple years back. It created a pocket while I slid on the pavement with the bike on top of me. From that point forward, all of my bikes have had / will have hard bags of some sort, be it OEM or aluminum panniers.
EDIT - there was a small scuff on the bar end weight...
Hey Dave, I have a title change for ya!
welder to weldor.
Welder = machine.
Weldor = person using said machine.
Not much, but it's something!
Yeah - in general use, everyone spells it "welder", both the person and machine. I forget when I first learned the difference, but my fingers just don't spell check me the way they should as I type it.
I agree on well built bags helping to limit damage. The hulking monster that is my R1200 GSA has been down on its side multiple times, and the combination of the bar end and panniers have limited damage to a few scuffs on the cylinder head guards.
You can have your thread title be whatever you would like it to be (within reason ). The reason some have suggested changes is out of respect for your current skill set - quite impressive
Thanks, Dave! I do appreciate the kind words!