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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by kirkster70, Oct 3, 2010.
Glad to see the progress continues! Nice work and terrific reading!
Thank you very much!
Just remember that I am a rookie as the title correctly says, so I'm trying to post from a beginning perspective.
I've been asking a bunch of questions in other threads, and I've been receiving excellent info. from others to get this far.
I'm always open to criticism from those in the know. If anyone sees me screwing up, please keep me straight!
And those with zero experience welding as I once had, you can see it's about as hard as baking a cake. Follow the directions and it usually works out well.
More pics to follow...
My kids like riding with me, so I always want the rear pegs functional and not blocked by the bags. With that in mind, I tape a boot in place for measuring purposes.
I plumb off the heel of the boot and stick another piece of tape on the bike.
I measure over an inch for clearance to the bag, then another inch to the edge of the hoop.
I mark where I want the top of the hoop with yet more tape, then hold the hoop in place while eyeballing a measurement. I bend a stub 90, and cut both ends where I need it to be. This pic shows everything already tacked together.
The above pic shows drilling the tube for a "fish mouth" to make a solid joint.
The bottom mount is a chrome spacer I had left from a chopper I built several years ago. I ground off the chrome and drilled out the inside to accept an allen bolt.
L side complete.
Once one side is complete, the other side is a snap. Measure off what you did on the other side. The above pic shows a segment bend I made to match the contour of the R plastic.
Using a straight edge to line up the tab for the rear support.
Both tabs tacked in place.
Using a carpentry tool used to duplicate angles.
Transferring the angle to the tube by eyeballing it.
Rear support notched and tacked in place.
Mock-up complete. Now I need to disassemble and final weld everything, and shape the tabs better.
Buying in 3' lengths wasn't as wasteful as I thought. I have 2) full 3' pieces left, and a piece over 2' left. So I guess I used about 16' total.
More to follow when I have something to show.
Great work. Guess you are a "pastry chef" now.
Nice job on the metal shop and all the cool projects!
You saved yourself a trip to the dump too! Reuse is the name of the game.
Nice work on the rack and boxes.
Looking great! You are making me want to get out and do more!
More progress on the DR350S racks...
Exterior welds blended, tabs rounded, and 3/16" x 1 1/2" flat bar cut 6" long and welded in the rear for ebay mounting knobs. (3/8" nuts tacked behind the flat bar)
The whole rack weighs just under 7lbs. That's 10lbs. lighter than the KLR rack out of 1" square tube. Go figure.
Again, everything is spraybombed with 3 coats of rustoleum industrial grade semi-gloss black enamel.
Now I'm just waiting on ebayed mirrors and rear signals to put her on the road.
If I have time, I'll start back on the bags tomorrow. I'm going to spray bomb them black as well.
Until next time...
I like the use of multiple hardware grades...a true backyard handyman utilizing what's at his disposal...
I only bring it up 'cauze I've done the same myself...
Yep! Ha Ha!
Looks like a grade 3, 5, and 8! Good eye!!
I've got buckets full of crap from hoarding disassembled parts.
Believe it or not, I think the grade 3 bolt came from a Honda generator that I recently stripped down. I've never seen SAE hardware on a Honda.
You're supposed to be marvelling at how close I tacked those two pieces of plate together. Ha Ha!
yep, I've got 5 gallon buckets full of hardware from old switchgear tear outs.
GE, Pringle, Siemens from back in the day all used top notch gold chromate grade 5 or 8 bolts, nuts, locks, flats and belleville washers.
None of it's any good for bikes or newer cars but for plain old fabrication they save having to go to the hardware store...
Rookie, my ass. Inspiring DIY stuff. Looking forward to the panniers.
As usual, great work ... but I must mention: the baseplate for the bender stand has beautifully square corners and edges = not good for bare feet. I have a tendency to round off the corners and bevel or round the edges, just in case I do a bit without my boots on (most of the time ). I also have other people in my shed from time to time. Just a thought ... keep up the great work mate.
If you are wearing bare feet in a shop you are asking for trouble. Gotta use common sense.
i don't know anything so i'm just asking. is that upper mount going to support anything?
Heeeyyy .. gimmy a break willyu? .... I'm an Aussie ... we do things a little different down here.
Can't tell yu how many times I got hot spatter between my toes .. but not wanting to ugly-up my run ... just keep welding ... dancing can come later ..
im the same way over here in california. i weld in my flipflops and jump around when i get slag on my feet. also all my socks have holes from welding too!
who need common sense when you've got cast iron feet .. ... but I'd still trim that base-plate
My friend is a good welder and when looking for material for a project I looked up fabrication shops in the area. The one I went to had dumpsters full of "junk" to them that was just what I needed. You guys should check some fabrication shops for cheap materials.
The owner was implying I could learn to weld for him if I wanted.
Lincoln Electric has some week long courses if you can spare the time.
Also there is this thread.
Ask your WELDING questions here.
How to (almost) kill yourself with brake cleaner
Homemade aluminium panniers
It's nice to see other NOVA garages full of fab tools
a hole saw notcher works well for cutting the fish mouth. (I have the harbor freight one it works and is cheap ~$35) If you plan on doing a lot of 1 3/4 you may want to do a hydro conversion and add one of these http://www.tubebandit.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16133 as well as the bend tech software.