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Discussion in 'Equipment' started by John Smallberries, Nov 17, 2010.
I hope I'm wrong, but I think you have an error in your website description of the PDM60:
"What if I have gadget that draws more than 15Amps?
Simple. You just run a 'parallel circuit'. You utilize two of the circuits (i.e. two 15A circuits (=30A), or a 15A and a 5A (=20A) to power your device. You just connect two circuit leads to your device power lead, ground your device to the frame or other suitable ground point, and youre up and running, fully protected."
I think this is half right. I went through this loop trying to keep my Stebel horn powered, but failed. I wired it to a 15-amp circuit and found that it actually draws ~ 17amps. Circuit popped on the first long blow. No problem - I had a spare 5 amp output on my PDM60 and wired it parrallel to the 15. The circuit tripped just the same.
My theory for why this didn't work: The two wires feeding power to the horn don't know their fuse value. The 17 amps drawn by the horn gets split equally by the two wires of equal size: 8.5 amps each. The 8.5 amps blows the 5 amp circuit, leaving the 15 amp circuit to carry the full 17 amp load. It then blows as well. If I were to bundle two 15-amp circuits together I would expect no problem. So, parallell wiring only helps if the paired circuits have equal fuse value.
The beauty of your programming service is that you could give me two 9 amp-limited circuits to feed this load in parallel.
I fixed my horn problem by inserting a relay triggered off the horn and an "old school" 20-amp inline fuse to the battery. Not too elegant, but it works.
Do the engineers at Rowe agree?
Hmmm... Well, that's not how it's 'sposta work :huh, so I will have to give it a whirl, and check with the guru's at Rowe. I've setup several Stebel's on a 15AMP PDM60 tap, and no issues that I know of.
Stay tuned - 'film at Eleven...'
Can you highlight the changes between the V1 and V2?
What he said.
Version 1 had a heavy power and ground lead coming out one end, the output leads from the other end of the unit.
Version 1 had a 16 pin Molex-type connector for the output leads. You'd plug-in a hot and ground lead into the connector for each circuit. Version 2 has the leads coming directly from the unit, no intermediate connector, which is a better design.
Version 1 did not have the startup delay, version 2 has a seven second start-up delay so that all of the circuits don't come on while you're trying to start the bike.
There are a number of internal circuit improvements, as well.
Hope that helps.
OK - you are correct. The two parallel circuits must be the same ie. 2x5AMP or 2x15AMP. I've corrected the description on our site. We'd be happy to program any PDM60 previously purchased from us, at no charge, if y'all need.
Great, thanks. So, by default, all V2 outputs have a seven second start-up delay?
Seems to me if you're worried about that, you just don't use that circuit. Pretend it's not there and your concern goes away. You still have numerous switched and delayed-off circuits to use for whatever you want.
The 'external switch trigger' blue lead has to be grounded *AND* the grey wire input for the ignition-switched power must be at +12 volts for there to be +12 volts output on the white wire.
The blue lead can be grounded all the time, if desired, and the white lead will then have +12 volts output when the ignition is switched on. This behavior of this, and any other circuit is programmable with our dashboard software and programing tool.
Hope that helps to clarify how it works.
Forgive me if this is a 205 - but Blake at Rowe sent me this excellent video on the operation of the PDM60. I think this is one-generation old as it still has the battery tender SAE plug - which I believe is now gone.
This gives you a great idea about what this thing can do:
I just installed mine a few days ago. From my very short time with it working, it appears to be a very functional little gizmo. It was nice to clean up the mess going to ACC2 that the previous owner of my KTM left for me.
My one criticism is about the length of the leads coming from the harness and the length of the power lead. I'm sure some installations will work out just fine with the short leads, but others could benefit from a few more feet of wire on each lead for a cleaner install. It's a mess quite frankly and I've just spend a small fortune on wires, harnesses and pins so I can put together something that I think will be cleaner and more reliable over the long term.
Our wiring kit makes a big difference.
The SAE battery charging connector is still there - but it may go away down the line.
Props to those who take the time to snap pics along the way. My iPhone (and camera) is usually docked and providing music while I'm in my shop. I'll see what I can do next week when I clean it up. Basically, the PDM60 is in the glove box with a dangling USB port and the wiring harness is in the space between the fuse box and the head tube. I ran two 10AWG cables down the right side of the frame to the battery. Most of the important wires end up behind the headlight and a few of them run up to switches on the HDB bar mount.
RocketMoto, I'm sure your wiring kit is great and it appears to go part of the way to making it much better. I'm convinced that we'd be better served with two more feet of wire on all the leads in the harness. I'd happily pay an extra $30-$50 for the additional length if it means I don't have to waste time discovering that there aren't any hardware/automotive/electronics shops in Portland that carry suitable wire for the installation.
Over the last couple of days I've beeen emailing Rowe for info and they now offer, to quote..... " We just (last week) developed a method to program the units at home, right off your PC, using just a custom USB cable connected to the PDM60."
Sounds very good to me!!
Cool - may need to upgrade!
This has been my biggest complaint against the PDM60 and I had to verify myself. I just heard from Rowe and yes, It's true!. You can now program them yourself via a USB cable (or at least, in the very neat future you can!). This one is a dream come true! What a killer product!
Of course, Rowe neglected to tell us. Geesh...
I'm finishing my 2nd full year of use of my PDM60 with no major problems. I like this gadget.
My one issue is minor, but puzzling. The Green LED for one of my unused circuits (#3) stays on, even after the bike is turned off and all timers run out. I have three unused circuits, but only this one glows green - the others are fully off and dark.