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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by longtallsally, May 15, 2008.
I can't tell from the pics, but is the R1200GS bars 7/8 pr 1 1/8?
thanks .. order en route :)
Question.. could someone who has moved the throttle cable please advise as to how it is correctly unhooked from handlebar area? And re-attach? much appreciated. Also, as u can see from my photos.. my clutch side, the cables had to come behind (towards rider) my forks. It works, but the "bend" of the clutch braided line, borders on too tight a turn.... any thoughts on that.. I think just loosening that Clutch line and opening it up (turning it counter-clockwise) a bit... that may help the tightness.
Any one who had worked with such problems (year 2012), would be appreciated.
Try taking a look at this pictorial done by inmate xq89olp. Took me 25 minutes to move my throttle cable start to finish with this thread. Brilliant simple instructions.
I installed my Rox Risers last night, following the instructions in this threat. I've got a 2012 12GS triple black (not that color should make any difference.. but you never know with those crazy Germans!)
Risers went on OK. I found that I was able to tighten the torx bolts down fine - I tensioned the small torx (closer to the tank) with a closed wrench (7 or 8mm I think it was) then becuase of the angle of my Rox, I was able to use a socket stright on the front main torx bolt. Have not fully tensioned yet. Less than an hour work to this point.
After reading some recent posts here I was half expecting that my cables would be fine without adjustment, however that was not the case.
My clutch side was seriously tight - could not achieve full lock even after cutting the cable tie up front as per instructions. I followed the clutch cable down the left of the frame to make it "horizontal" per instructions in this threat, but it was already horizontal :eek1. BMW is on to us!
I dropped the left front shock (very easy to do, thanks for the guidance on that.. took less than 5 mins) and cable tied the braided clutch line to the small bracket that secures the trottle cable, about the middle of the bike where the throttle cable passes under the fuel tank.
I zip tied it with some free-play left and it seems to be working. Without it the cable was moving all over the place as I went lock to lock, but now it is anchored in the center. That small bracket for the trottle cable is very thin so I'll have to keep an eye on it, but for now looks OK. Lock to lock does not move the bracket at all it seems, so no problem with interferance with the trottle cable.
Tomorrow night I'll do the throttle-cable-under-the-bars trick as described and linked in this threat. Currently I cannot comfortably achieve full right lock without fiddling the throttle cable around with my hand, because the throttle cable is too tight. I see hardpackrider managed to get his working with zip ties.. I'll try that but may just relocate the cable as it sounds like such an easy job.
Looking over the threats again tonight, I think the difference between (a) people being OK with their cables and (b) people having to make adjustments to the cables as I am, comes down to the angle that the rox risers are positioned (and year model of the bike, I'm sure). People with their rox directly upright from the stock risers will have an easier time than people like me that are positioning them at about 45 degrees. Something to keep in mind if you are planning to fit bars. I'm fitting mine more for sitting down touring comfort/reach rather than for standing on the pegs comfort.
Will post pics and final thoughts when I get the throttle cable adjusted and final fitting adjustments/torque down complete (hopefully tomorrow night... if the kids don't have homework I need to help with...).
Thanks all for your previous posts and pics, sure makes it easier for those of us that follow in your footsteps.
Never did see anyone post the torque values for the fork tube nuts...or did I miss it?
Got it. Sorta.
Steel handlebars to fork bridge, M8 x 30
1st front, 2nd rear -> gap at rear only (as viewed in forward direction of travel)
21 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
Is this right???:
Fork bridge, top, with fork fixed tube, M10 x 1.25
Mechanical thread lock
40 Nm (30 ft-lbs)
im fearing the handlebar will come loose in time, is that possibel? what if you jump or hit a ditch? I need risers and this is a good option, only the way they work, im wondering if anyone had any problems with them? update : i guess not!
can i install them on a 2009 gsa? or only 2010 and up?
Mine (the one I started the thread with) is a 2007. Let's just say, I've "used" mine and no issues at all- other than being more comfy.
Mine just arrived with the mail!
72 euro's shipped from the usa, i had to pay 29 euro's import tax.
Don't steal, the gouvernment hates competition!
I want to replace the E bolts with standard bolts...what do I need?
(2) M10 x90
(2) M8 x 30
Is that right? What thread pitch? I need to order online, so I want to make sure I get the right thing.
Sorry guys to dig this out again,
but I am looking up the ROX risers for a friend and his 2011 ADV.
May I ask which size of the risers you got?
Thanks, appreciate your help!
Call or write Ryan at ROX. He's sharp, and will explain the options for that specific bike:
Finished the install today, rerouted every cable, and had to tighten all bolts several times. of course, I don't own a torque wrench yet (but it's coming).
I am wondering how hard I should try to pounce the bars to test them.
Also, if you look at the front brake cable in the op, it runs the neck of the forks. Will it rub through the coated, braided cable?
Aside from those thoughts, I'm pleased with the install. Next step is to replace the e-torx bolts. Anyone know what size Allen bolts to get (my searches came up with different answers)? (same question as lilmonkey above)
Long story short, this tutorial made the job much easier than if I struck out on my own. Thanks again!
I got the 2" riser for my GS. I am 1.80m tall and I had to bend my back or my knees a little bit, while standing on the pegs, to comfortably hold the handlebar, so I knew 2" would be more than enough. Regular spacers would suffice, to be honest, but I wanted the flexibility ROX risers give you. Highly recommend it. After I bought it I noticed they carry a 1.5", that one would do as well. Perhaps you will have more space to work on the bolts with the taller one. More than 2" and you will have problems with you cables.
After spending many hours reading all the threads on ADV, I purchased the 2" Rox risers. I did a dry run leaving the cables in front of the forks to test out the concept. When I noticed that the cables were tight, as everyone here indicated they would be, I preceded to remove the fork caps to drop the forks in order to re-route the cables and brake lines.
What I found was that the nuts were somewhat corroded and apparently bonded to the studs. I was unable to get them off without the bolt starting to feel like it was starting to round off. Fearing mission creep and a trip to my BMW dealer in my future, I gave up.
Are there any secrets to getting off corroded nuts without destroying the stud and it's associated parts? I thought about trying to heat up the nut, but there are too many wires in the area that possibly could be damaged in the process.
thanks Tex (throttle link) helped !
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Put a little liquid wrench on the bolts and let them sit for an hour.