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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Eatmore Mudd, Nov 6, 2017.
It's and Oberdan Bezzi.
That guy does some amazing renderings.
Thanks! He's up in Alaska so I don't think he'll track you down.
Ahh its not like kaput is stealing it for commercial purposes or personal gain he's just sharing it. It's art. Damn fine skilled art. Inspirational.
The avant-garde can keep their random monkey doodles and interpretive crap. Renaissance classics and masterful works like Bezzi, that gives me warm the warm and fizzys when I behold them.
Spoke wheels can be sealed to run tubeless too.
Remove the wheel....easy, prevent the bike from tumbling again, find a clean workspot in the grass or mud, force the tire off the hump(s), get one wall over the rim, cut your hand while wresling in a tube, take it out again because you forgot to remove the tubeless-valve, get the outer tire inside the rim again, pump it up with??, ..........DID YOU EVER !???
Correct, but only for the really brave....
The guys at HD Wheels http://www.hdwheels.com did a great job sealing the spoke steel wheels for my VTX1300.
They held air better than the OEM cast wheels. And looked better too!
How much did that run you to get them sealed? Do you know what they did exactly?
$40 a wheel, does not include shipping and that was 10 years ago.
I don't know their exact procedure.
But they clean and prep the rim, then apply sealant whilst maintaining the raw balance of the wheel.
Google, sealing spoke wheels, for more info.
There is probably someone in your area that will seal spoke wheels, as shipping would be a budget buster...
I met folks who bought Alpina wheel/spoke kits & had them installed. Both raved about them...thousands of miles with no prob. at all. These are new rims & SS spokes that seat into sockets in the rim with special O rings. An advantage is that you can order 17" rims, & use modern rubber sizes & compounds. This is not some sort of goo & tape homemade solution.I've heard horror stories about those.
Big drawback is the eye watering price, $600 per wheel as I recall, for the spokes, rims & O rings. Then you have to either lace & balance them yourself, or send them off to Buchanans at further expense. It looks like a good solution if you've got deep pockets.
I sealed the wheels on my Tbird a couple months ago with 3M extreme sealing tape, no leaks to date, but meticulous prep is the key:
Riders have been doing this for years, from what I read before trying it. If you do have a spoke leak, you can apply the green loctite 290 to the offending spoke from the outside to seal it, after deflation, of course.
There is a risk with anything; but my fear of the minute chance that this would wind up killing me was far outweighed by the thought of having to deal with a tube flat. I hate tubes!!
EDIT: If this does indeed end up killing me, I'll be sure to let you all know.
I used the Outex kit on my SR400 in August and 1,500 miles later I've had zero issues.
There are several ways of sealing your spoked rim, and most of them work pretty well. Problem is that the tape and/or kit gets damaged when you take out the tire and you have to renew the sealing before putting on a new tire, this can be messy. Besides that, not all rims are suited for sealing off air sideays, especially the well can be a weak point. Than, consider that you want to seal at least 37 holes and the centrifugal forces are trying to lift the tape/kit at high speeds. On my racer I use tubes for 15 years, never had a problem, I do change tires at leat once a year. And what do you mean by "look better"? Can you see the difference between tube or sealing on the outside?? Ciao Umberto.
Oops,sorry wrong thread I thought it was about Royal Enfield Twins
You may want to review your understanding of centrifugal force.
Edit: I may want to review it myself - never mind. It will be interesting to see how the tape holds up the next time I have a tire off.
Don't the RE twins have spoked wheels?
Even though there is a force pulling it out isn't there also a force pushing it in to the tune of 40psi trying it's best to escape?
Obviously, not an expert. But, I think yes, at the spoke "pockets" the pressure differential is trying to push the sealing tape out through the gaps between the spoke nipples and the spoke holes in the rim, so this opposes the centrifugal force at these areas. But, I think the tape outside of these areas only "sees" the pressure inside the tire, and would just be affected by the centrifugal force. If I knew the mass of the tape, I could figure the lifting force vs rim speed. I'll try to dig up something on that. (for my own entertainment, I'm sure.)
EDIT: here's my stab at it , using my front wheel numbers:
1 sq. in. of 1mm tape = 0.64516 cm3 x density of 0.82 g/cm3 = 0.529 g/in2
At 100mph, v = 31.27 M/S (at the 18" rim).
F= (.000529 Kg x 31.27 M/S squared) / .22875 M
F= 2.26N = 0.51 lbs
So, the lifting force due to centrifugal force on the 1 mm tape is 0.51 PSI at 100 MPH, I think. The tape is rated for what looks like a working strength of 2.5 PSI and a peel strength when prepped with primer of 15.1 PSI, so looks good to me.
A good thread will eventually involve tangents.
I would seal the rims on my Royal Enfield Twin.
There back on topic.
If the bike comes with tubes I will just not buy it unless I want to go to the trouble of having them sealed my self. I think it is ridiculous of manufacturers to put tubes in a wheel these days. If some one wants tubes, then they can just pay extra for them and not the other way around.
I think that manufacturers are just lazy and it will take a lawsuit to put an end to tubes on road capable vehicles. These new REs are gorgeous in person. So too is the new Triumph Speedmaster. I would never buy a modern car with tubed wheels. Never.
Can you just make your own thread about how you dont like:
Sub 300 mile fuel range
Bikes without built in luggage
Because it's boring as piss that you keep popping up to say the same shit about bikes you never had any intention of buying