RPM Erratic Rev Issue 990 KTM Adventure 2007

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by dgjackson40, Mar 26, 2014.

  1. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    When I started the bike up to ride home from work I noticed something concerning the warm up idle. When I started the bike it was out of gear but no neutral light so I had to have kickstand up and clutch pulled in. The bike was idling at about 1100. When I pulled the clutch lever in about 1/2 inch the rpm went to 2000. Let it out and back to 1100. Pull it in 1/2 inch 2000. This was with a cold bike and no neutral light but out of gear. I rode 3/4 mile to quick mart and still no neutral when out of gear. Pull in clutch 1/2 inch no change in rpm but it was idling at about 1500 rather than 1100. When I got home a few minutes later bike was idling still at 1500 out of gear and neutral light came right on when I took it out of gear.

    Clutch switch??? Gear indicator switch???? Replace both????? Lever switch jump test????? Disable switch???? Oh the woes! But at least its running!!!
    #21
  2. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    Try 0.55, 0.60 0.65 and see where it idles better with warm motor.
    Neutral sensor usually malfunctions when dirty... I don't know what happens to yours, can't help, sorry
    #22
  3. Sumi

    Sumi Long timer

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    Glad you are one step closer to joy:)

    IMO you should really figure out what's causing the funny neutral light behaviour, as that surely messes up the FI and can be the reason of the stalls/wandering idle. Normally, when in gear and with a closed throttle the FI will somewhat cut the fuel to achieve engine braking. So if the bike misinterprets whether it's in gear or not, if it's sensing a non-neutral signal when the bike is really in neutral (or with a pulled in clutch), it'll also cut the fuel leading to a engine stall.

    If the bike is shifting 100% normally mechanically (ie. no false neutrals between gears, etc.) I'd suggest a new gear-position sensor (60011023100) probably with a new O-ring right away (0770275025). Also before purchasing the items, it would be a good idea to trace the gear-position sensors circuit back to the main harness, and then to the ECU to see if there is damaged insulation somewhere.
    #23
  4. StevenD

    StevenD Hmmmm, dirt!

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    your commute is 1!! JUST ONE MILE and you take the bike??? Thats pure engine murder as it will never reach operating temperature..

    Walk or take a bicicle!
    #24
  5. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    You just may have something there! I did say that perhaps the bike doesn't like its urban environment!! I do let it warm up to two bars before leaving and its at 4 before reaching work. Past 5 years of riding bikes to work no issues with either the VStar or the GoldWing but you may be right it could be wreaking havoc on the KTM!

    Gefr, I'll give that a try.

    Sumi, I ordered the sensor and will run down the wires also before installing. The neutral light issue began the day I bought the bike and drove it home. When I got home with it and put it in the garage the light would not illuminate in neutral. I called my friend I had purchased it from and he hadn't had the issue previously. It worked the next morning and then intermittently until other issues arose. I wish I had ran that gremlin down at that time but then the snowball effect began with the other issues with the bike including the WP failure and rebuild and the neutral light got lost in the fray!! I was sort of hoping that with everything else done to the bike (clean oil jet, swap a couple clutch plates, water pump rebuild, R&R fuel filters, ITG filter kit, SAS removal & canisterectomy, valve adjustment, new plugs, R&R TPS , R&R cluth fluid and new oring in slave, etc) that the neutral light would miraculously fix itself!!

    I am getting poor StevenD I may have to start walking!!! I am just glad I am not paying $90 per hour shop fees to fix this thing or it would still be sitting in my garage!!
    #25
  6. Aasdasdasddd

    Aasdasdasddd n00b

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    Hi. I had the same idle issue. Adjusted the closed TPS to 0.60 V. Full open position is now at ~3.7v - Tuneecu displays this as only 96-97% when throttle is fully open (TPS values are linear from closed to fully opened position). Does this affect engine perfomance at full throttle? Are such values fine for TPS or does it need to be replaced?
    By the way, mine seems to depend more on battery voltage, than the engine temperature - was 0.60 with 12.3 at battery, 0.63 with 12.7 v battery.
    #26
  7. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    Found this with my clutch switch. Will add to this shortly. Not easy typing on phone.

    Now curious if this busted switch connector at the clutch lever could be causing any of my issues. I am going to replace it regardless but it appears wires are in tact but cannot be sure. I am guessing this has been this way for quite some time, at least since I bought the bike.

    I think I have solved my neutral light issue with the gear position sensor replacement this weekend. So far I have had no problem with getting the neutral light but I only installed yesterday and tried it about 10 times or so. Time will tell. I haven't hooked the bike back up to TuneECU since TPS was set at .68. I think I will order the clutch switch before adjusting the TPS again as the bike is running pretty good now. Only a couple of instances of stalling when coming to stop sign and abruptly pulling in clutch. It is still idling a bit on the low side.

    Aasdasdasddd your figures look pretty good to me. If after replacing the clutch switch my problems go away I'll post a listing of what all I have done to get to that point. I still have not determined beyond a doubt that my TPS was bad before replacing it. Someone else may be able to answer your question about full throttle performance. I am really new at TuneECU although as many times as I have hooked it up you would think not! Plus I really haven't had mine on the road at full throttle for any length of time!! I had not really paid a lot of attention to the battery voltage comparing to my TPS voltage. I'll be more cognizant of that forward.

    Attached Files:

    #27
  8. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    Cheers
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  9. Sumi

    Sumi Long timer

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    If the efi does not sense the clutch engaged and in gear, and the throttle closed, it cuts the fuel IMO. So a faulty switch could be the cause of the stalls.

    you can test it by trying to start the bike while in gear (on centerstand). If it starts 10/10 with the clutch pulled and doesn't start with the clutch released, then the switch should be ok.
    #29
  10. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    Solved my neutral light issue with the new gear position sensor.

    Bike idled fine at .68 tps but didn't seem to run smooth. 1st attempt today to set to .65v with warm bike. Rode bike a couple miles and it started stalling when pulling in the clutch.

    Now going to try .55v and see what that gets me. I am adjusting the TPS manually with the star screw while I have the bike on TuneECU and with the "throttle adjustment" feature ingaged. I am going to insure the throttle cables are adjusted correctly with sufficiant slack this time and set to.55v.
    #30
  11. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    Ok, so adjusted the TPS to .55v with throttle fully closed. Made sure the throttle cables had recommended slack. After adjusting to .55v I checked TuneECU after turning key off and back on. TPS now reads .60v and bike not stalling on first test ride just about 2 miles. Seems to be idling find and has good power. Keeping fingers crossed that sweet spot has been found for this bike. I'll take it out tomorrow for a much better test.
    #31
  12. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    Ok, so I rode the bike for about 160 miles on Saturday. Half or more of that was gravel roads. The bike ran great all day long. No idling, high rev or stalling issues and power was good. Gave the bike a pretty good workout enough so that when I opened the garage Sunday morning I find that the back tire is flat! A fairly new tire at that! Didn't have the gumption yesterday to tear the tire down and fix it. I'll do that this evening so I can ride it to work the rest of the week to see if it continues to perform well in the urban environment.

    If this solves my issues then I am guessing the TPS R&R and setting the TPS to .55V with warm bike fully closed throttle to result in a .60v TPS reading as mentioned earlier would have most likely been the fix. Still keeping fingers crossed.
    #32
  13. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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  14. Aasdasdasddd

    Aasdasdasddd n00b

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    Can you post your TPS voltage for full throttle please?
    #34
  15. Hipster

    Hipster Long timer

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    Next time pull the 15 amp fuse for the headlight and keep the bike on a battery tender during the test, your voltage should be more stable.
    #35
  16. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    If I get time tonight I will hook up TuneECU and check that for you. I failed to do that when last hooked up. I have had no issues with throttle this week riding to work and a bit of riding gravel after work last evening. Still keeping fingers crossed that this fixed my issues.
    #36
  17. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    I checked voltage with semi warm bike. Had 2 to 3 bars on thermostat reading. TPS read .57/.58v closed and 3.72v at 98% throttle.
    #37
  18. Aasdasdasddd

    Aasdasdasddd n00b

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    Thanks. It seems, that my TPS is ok with 3.7v at 96 %. By the way, i did pull headlight and taillight fuses(12.3-12.7v is a good enough voltage for battery, right?).
    #38