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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by RoninMoto, Apr 14, 2012.
Nice. You have more pictures from Portugal?
Nov. 8 Manvilla Spain to Manzanares Spain. 478 km.
I was still riding with Craig and Adam from Morocco. The other guys were still in Morocco because the weather wouldn't let the Ferries cross. We lucked out and were on the last ferry the night before. Craig needed to get his Triumph running right and I desperately needed to change the oil in the KTM. Malaga just so happened to have a KTM shop and a Triumph shop. By 1:00 we were back on the road heading north. We made it to Manzanares about the time it started to get dark.
Oil change on the sidewalk outside this KTM shop.
KTM makes peddle bikes also.
Nov. 9 Manzanares to Vinebre Spain. 553 km.
I split up with Craig and Adam and went east toward Barcelona. Long day. Just trying to cover ground to get to the WRC rally. November 9 was the first day of 3 for the rally. It was the only day with dirt stages so I missed those unfortunately. 21 Euro for a small private room and a garage for the moto at a hostel in Vinebre. They even had great food and cervesa.
Nov. 10 and Nov. 11 WRC Rally Espainia
I was up with the sun to get on the bike and get to a good viewpoint. Having a moto means you can take tracks to the side if the rally that most people cant. Saves you from walking a long distance. Thorough prior planning is necessary and will save you lots of time getting to a good vantage point. I took 1600 photos. About 50 of them were good enough to post.
Here are a few of them. For the whole album (55 total) go here
Chris Patterson checking out my KTM. Apparently he has a 640adv. He is Petter Solberg's codriver and we chatted for a while about Morocco and Dakar.
WRC champions for the pas 7? years...
Nov. 12 Vinebre Spain to Asson France. 337 km
Before Morocco I left all my camping stuff and warm cloths at Keith's house. So after leaving the rally I went north back into France. On the Spanish side of the Pyrenees mountains it was warm and sunny. When I went through the tunnel to the French side there was snow on the ground. It was a cold ride to Kieth's house without my warm under layers.
Neat rock layers.
On the Spanish side. Looks cold up there.
French side :huh
Nov. 13. Asson France
Took all day to share photos with Kieth and try to get caught up on blogs and such
Nov. 14 Asson France to Comillas Spain. 432 km
Nice sunny day. I left Keith's house and did motorway most of the way to Comillas Spain. About 1/2 way to Vigo Spain. I wanted to make it to Vigo for my birthday.
Nov. 15 Comillas to Vigo. 521km
My 29th Birthday! First one out of the US. I had a nice ride to Vigo along the northern coast and through some mountains in northern Spain. I like traveling in Spain because I can speak (some) Spanish. I made it into Vigo just before the sun went down. There was a huge protest for the banks in the streets. It was very loud and crazy. I found some good live music that night at a local bar.
Nov. 16, 17 Vigo Spain.
I spent the weekend celebrating my birthday. I met some good people and had some good times. I don't like to bring my camera out when I "tie one on". Unfortunately thats about all I did in Vigo. I also got a hair cut.
Hey Noah, nice pics mate. We'll have to catch up if ya ever come down under; New Zealand is a perfect fit for 690 adventuring!!
Happy Belated, Noah.
Sounds like it's one you'll always remember.
(well, IF you can remember the actual night, that is).
Awesome RR! I found it a couple of days ago but i'm now up to date! You've really inspired me to take my Katoom out for a longer spin. I'm thinking either Morocco or maybe Iceland this summer! Keep those pictures coming and good luck!
Do it! I'm pretty glad I did. (and thanks fr the props)
Thanks Cord. I remember the important stuff.
....sent you a PM on a possible world war 2 off road mountain route in the alps you might be interested in if the weather is right
Surprised we've not met.......had i seen this sooner you could have stayed with us in England,
would have saved you 50GBP,you were only a few mile away on your way past Stamford.
Then Morocco,you arrived a couple of days before i.Was nice to see my home of Scotland,
sorry it's been a 'pants' summer(why i was working in England!).
To other ADV'rs.......where the front end of my Arizona based DR650 came from,a Honda
Hope the rest of your trip goes without trouble!
I didn't go very far south in Portugal.
Nov. 18. Vigo Spain to Porto, Portugal 191 km
After the birthday weekend I am feeling like I need to start moving again. I had no idea where in Portugal to go, How far south, how much time, where I would stay.. I just went. Leaving Vigo I stopped at a cafe and had some coffee and Empanadas for breakfast. The lady who owned the shop was great to talk to but she wouldn't let me take a picture. She was in her fifties and kept showing me a picture of her self in her twenties. My Spanish is not very good but I think she was saying if she was in her 20s she wanted to come with. I stayed next to the ocean some then climbed on some secondary roads into the hills. By the afternoon I was crossing the river into Portugal and by the evening I was in Porto. I found a hostel near the center of town. I made friends with Frederico who had a bar across the street from the hostel. I only wanted a cup of coffee but he kept giving me beers. So after a handful of beers later with him and his friends he had to go. So I went to eat with a French guy who was a traveling DJ and another Portuguese bar owner. We all had francesinha and way to much wine. Francesinha is a rich sandwich (ham, cheese, chirizo, and roast beef) smothered in sauce like gravy. It was good and you should try it. I think there were to many flavors though.
Looking north toward Vigo
Some guys were using the wind from the ocean to hover in the hang gliders.
Not sure what this place was... but it looked neat.
Frederico and the Frenchman.
I don't remember what this alcohol was called. but it it was good. and the container was pretty cool.
Nov. 19. Porto to Peso da Régua, Portugal 165 km
The night before, Frederico said I should go to the family farm in eastern Portugal where his brother lives. This was the new plan. I saw the town quickly on the way out and I now realize I need to spend more time in Porto. The people were amazing. The food was good and cheap, so was the alcohol. I rode east along the Rio Douro and found some great trail on the south side of the river. I wasn't lost but I came out on small landing strip.. not really in the plan. A dude in his 20s was flying a model airplane and we had a good chat. His dog would chase the plane until it could not even run anymore. Days are really getting short now. If I don't get an early start I am always riding in shadows. When the sun goes behind the mountains it gets very cold. I stayed the night in Peso da Régua in a hotel.
The main square
Some authorities didn't like that I parked there.
They look like toys?
Ahhh.. dirt. Low road or high?
Washouts. My favorite.
Can you tell I am by myself again? Picture of my bike with out me on it
Everyone and their mother were burning brush.
Nov. 20. Peso da Régua to Almedra 173 km
I found some more great roads on the way to Almedra. Twisty dirt/rock/mud tracks in the vineyards. I found it amazing that the leaves of the vineyards change color also. It seems I have been in fall colors since Poland. I arrived at the farm in the evening and met my new friends. The plan was to stay for one night and go further south but I ended up staying a lot longer. No regrets.
Looks like it should get good soon...
After following a dirt 2 track along a ridge-line I came to this castle which was overlooking a small town.
A view from the other side
Joanna and Vera with fresh fungi.
Me, Joanna, Diogo, Pedro and Alex
Nov. 21 and 22
There were 5 people at the farm when I got there. Diogo ( Frederico's brother), Vera (Diogo's girlfriend), Alex (a freind with a WR250), Joana (Vera's friend from Lisbon) and Pedro (traveling one man band from Spain). We spent the days exploring on motos, exploring by foot, or picking almonds. I worked on the KTM, fixed some stuff on their land rover and installed some outlets in their house. In the evenings we would all eat together then play music and drink wine until the late hours of the night. I think it is easy to see why it was hard to leave.
This was a very old grain mill. The water rand down this shoot to turn the wheels.
Quick and nimble!
I think this one really captured the moment.
Breaking fresh almond shells with rocks.
Exploring the next day.
These are bricks in a wall. It doesn't take long for nature to do its thing.
An old bread oven.
We went out to eat that night. It was amazing.
My diner. Some sort of traditional sausage. Yum yum.
Nov. 23 Almedra, Portogal to near Soria, Spain. 469 km
In the morning we said our "good byes" and they all signed Portugal on the moto. I then went back to the river on the dirt track that Alex and I had riding the day before except I continued into Spain. Once in Spain I put on some kms. I wanted to get on the ferry to Corsica on the evening of the 25th out of Marceilles France. During the summer there is a ferry from Barcelona Spain but all the info on the internet said it wasn't running. I stayed the night at a Hostel near Soria Spain. I met some guys there that were pretty excited about my trip. Since I didn't have Spain on my moto yet, I let on of them sign it. Early to bed after some cafeteria food at the hostel.
yeah.. bagpipes on my departure!...
Nov. 24 Solia to Figures, Spain. 531km
Up early and motorway for most of the day. Coming into a small town in North-eastern Spain, a police officer waved me over to the side of the road so I pulled over and stopped. He started yelling at me in Spanish that I can't stand on the bike. I made the mistake of saying "Porque no?" that lit him up further. After getting no where trying to explain that standing on a moto when you come into town is the way I stretch out.. I apologized in Spanish and he let me go on my way. Obviously he did not ride a moto. That night I found a hotel in Figures with a locked garage. To bed early again.
Hotel sunset view
Nov. 25 Figures Spain to Marceille, France. 381 km
I got on motorway early and I arrived in Marceilles around 3 in the afternoon. The Ferry was at 7 so I had time to get some Kebab in the town. I was pretty paranoid in Marceilles so I didn't venture out of eyesight from the moto. Waiting for the boat I met some nice people who were going to tour Corsica for a week on their Honda. I slept pretty good on the boat ride there except for the people in my cabin insisted on keeping the heat on. I was sweating my @$$ off and I didn't sleep very good. I tried to explain that they could use more blankets to keep warm, but I am sweating laying on the bed so we should turn the heat off. But they weren't having it. Pricks. Anyway, I did finally get some shuteye and woke up in Corsica the next morning to a beautiful sunrise.
Lone moto waiting for the ferry.
Those who own a honda.
FanTAStic pictures, and ride report!
Good to get the update Noah..ride safe...
It's so amazing to read and see those pictures. All the best from snow covered Poland!
PS. I figured out how to quote 3 people at the same time! Huge victory for me
Yup... I can definately see why you were not in a hurry to leave.....
Nov 26, Ajaccio to Calvi (Island of Corsica, France) 202 km
I woke up to a beautiful sunrise in the Ajaccio harbor. I spent about an hour looking for Wifi in Ajaccio but I couldn't find any so I headed north. About 30 km I found a hotel/restaurant/bar with wifi. A few coffees later I knew where I wanted to go on the island. The weather was sunny and there was not much wind. I was surprised how rocky and hilly Corsica is. The riding was beautiful. Twisty roads along the ocean for most of the way. On the northern part of the island I found some very interesting hollow rocks. I am not sure how they are hollowed out.. maybe the sun baked the top so it is harder and the inside was eroded by the wind? Probably BS but its a guess? I was obviously on the island during slow times. Most of the hotels were closed and it was difficult finding a room on Corsica and Sardinia. I was very glad I had one last warm sunny day to explore Corsica because the next few would rain. I stayed the night in a way to nice hotel in Calvi. The off season rate was 70 euro. A budget killer but I didn't feel like camping.
Hollow rocks. Not the best picture. I saw better examples of them but sometimes I am having to much fun riding to take pictures.
Lunch spot north of porto. French bread, cheese, sausage.
Sunset view from the hotels looking east across the bay.
Nov 27, Calvi to Propriano. 245 km
The first part of the day the sun was trying to come out and it rained in the afternoon. In the evening I did have a nice sunset as I was riding down into Propriano. Once again, the fall colors were very nice. I had some amazing spaghetti carbonara for dinner. For those of you who have not had it, you really need to try. It is bacon, sauteed onions, garlic in a creamy sauce over spaghetti with an egg and lots Parmesan cheese. You can feel yourself getting fatter with every bite!
If there aren't cows, goats, dear, elk, bear, moose, wolf or some other huge animal.. you are not on a good adventure road.
I saw quite a few little rally cars like this. looks fun!
Sun is *trying* to come out to dry this pavement.
On the rock wall on the side of the road. I have no idea.
Looking down at Propriano
Nov 28, Propriano, France to Cannigione Italy . 133 km (including ferry)
I woke up at 5:00 to catch the 7:00 ferry to Porto Torres but when I got to the dock. There was no one there, no ferry, not even lights in the parking lot. I KNEW the ferry was running on the 29th. What I didn't realize is that it was only the 28th. Once again I have forgotten the date. This is not a bad problem to have. I found out there was a ferry running from Bonifacio to Santa Teresa so I rode about 65km south to Bonifacio in the rain and got there about 1/2 hour before the ferry left. It was a short ride to Sardinia and I slept even though I was still wet. Once in Sardinia I was wet and cold and it was still raining so I started looking for a hotel. Most of the hotels were closed but I finally found one in the town of Cannigione, 50 km after getting off the ferry. I spent the rest of the day catching up on Italian dubbed US movies. You should see Dogma dubbed in Italian. Its pretty great.
Nov 29, Cannigione to Cagliari Italy 343 km
It rained on and off all day as I rode to Cagliari. In the evening I met up with Raminta and Simona and we went out for dinner. We had sauteed mussels, some amazing pasta and wine of coarse. They are both from Lithuania and going to medical school in Cagliari. For the next 3 days we hung out a lot. This was my first time actually using couch surfing and it was great.
My new ride! haha I wish!
He only wanted 25k euro for it!
My new friends Raminta and Simona
Nov 30, Dec 1 Cagliari Italy
There is a great market in Cagliari with fresh fish, meat, vegetables, cheese, noodles and whatever else you could want. I cooked for everyone on Saturday night. Prawns sauteed in garlic and olive oil and Chicken pesto on fresh noodles. The girls made a salad of fresh tomato, olives and cucumber. It was definitely a feast.
These tomatoes were soooo effing good!
I found a guy who said he could make me some stickers so I quick put together a design. I was afraid it would be to detailed for his machine. It turned out the machine could cut the stickers but it was to detailed to separate the junk from the wanted. So I will have to have another go at the design sometime. That night Raminta and Simona cooked for me then a few of us went out. It turned into a late night very quickly and I took many photos in the city.
I wish this wasn't blurry! Young Italians don't want to mess up their hair so they wear the helmet like this!
Exploring above the city.
For making salt I was told?
I don't know what this is. but its funny.
FYI to America. Ford already makes a sweet diesel for ALL the cars. Start demanding that shit!
In an elevator going up to the old part of the city.
Hiding from the rain. I look fast in this picture.
What do you do when the cobblestone streets get slick? this of course.
As I stood there taking this pic.. I thought.. what if this fell?
Hard to see. But the basement/dancefloor of this bar is a cave. Quite neat.
Vending machine on the street.
I think this was a political conversation. I'm not sure though.
Dec 2, 3 Cagliari to Rome.
I only had a few hours sleep when my alarm went off. The plan was to get on the ferry to Sicily at 10 in the morning and sleep all the way to Sicily. I got dressed, loaded the bike and I was at the dock by 8:30 just to find out they weren't running that ferry for another week. This time I had the date correct but they canceled it or something. The next ferry to leave Cagliari was an overnight ferry to Civitavechia just north of Rome. I would have to skip Sicily because of this. So I went back to Raminta's house and got some sleep then got on the evening ferry. This time my room was nice and cold. Perfect for sleeping but the sea was so wavy. I kept thinking the moto was definitely on its side. But when we arrived, she was still upright. A quick ride to Rome along the coast and I checked into my hotel, (which has locked private parking). For the past 5 days I have been doing the sight seeing tourist thing here in Rome. And i'm almost caught up on my RR!
My Snowboard gear and avalanche pack/beacon/probe are all packed up and ready to go. My brother and his wife are meeting me in Florence on Monday. From there I'll be loaded kindof heavy getting to Georgia.
Jameson wanted to inspect my bag. Lets hope the little furball didn't leave me a present!
Game over in Croatia!
We're completely covered in snow, most of the roads closed, highways too.
Don't even try.
Thanks man. I will probably end up taking a ferry from Italy.
Good call - you're welcome.
Too bad, though..