RTW with Noah on a KTM 690

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by RoninMoto, Apr 14, 2012.

  1. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

    Joined:
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    In the mountains?
    Some of the most memorable riding I have done.

    It left at about 9 in the evening and got to Split at 7 in the morning.
  2. Leminkainen

    Leminkainen Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2012
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    84
    How many pics do you take to get these?
  3. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    Location:
    In the mountains?
    A couple hundred on a good day. I have over 10k pictures already. When I am riding and I see stop, I usually snap 5 or 6 shots then keep going.
  4. chekamus

    chekamus Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    63
    Location:
    Was england now new Zealand!
    i always look forward to catching up on your latest up-dates, sounds like your enjoying italy!
  5. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    In the mountains?
    Italy was fun. I'm in Istanbul Turkey now though! I am 7 countries behind! Dios Mio!
  6. backdrifter

    backdrifter Wannabe rider

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2005
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    1,364
    Location:
    Belleville, IL
    Ahhhhh, I loved Istanbul, enjoy! If you happen to find yourself at a small park along the Bosphorus with a huge long metal slide, take a picture. My daughter almost died coming down that slide when she was two years old! :eek1
  7. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

    Joined:
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    1,706
    Location:
    In the mountains?
    Tomorrow I am checking my valves, putting a new blinker on and fixing my speedo. I miss the R version digital speedo. The E version fills up with white powder and It gets hard to read. So I will do surgury on it again tomorrow.

    Other then that... Happy New Year!
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    Who says an adventurer can't clean up once in a while?!?!:lol3
  8. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

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    N.V.I, B.C.

    Whata you doing, getting married or something?
  9. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    In the mountains?
    Naw.. We were about to go to a new years party.. to find my Future x-wife :rofl
  10. levain

    levain STILL Jim Williams

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    7,720
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    Providence, RI
    Nice hair:lol3
  11. ini88

    ini88 Been here awhile

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    Aug 26, 2009
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    147
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    New York, NY
    Classy! I dig.
  12. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    Location:
    In the mountains?
    Dec. 18. 2012 Split Croatia
    I got off the ferry in the morning and found a cash machine and internet. Once I had the address for Sheldon (rideforsmiles). He has been on the road for since May 2011 and has done Most of Africa and Europe on a F800GS. We walked around the town that day and that night. I didn't really want to leave Split. It was so beautiful. The town and the woman. I think there were at least 5 females for every guy. I was considering buying a house there. I guess I have to go back sometime. I say that a lot it seems!

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    Sheldon form OZ. :freaky

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    Our awesome cook/server/new friend.

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    :clap

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    Dec. 19 Split to Makarska Croatia. 73 km
    I knew there was a KTM dealer in Makarska and I needed to change my oil. I was hoping they would be as cool as the other KTM shops I have been to. In Germany they let me us a lift and do all the work my self. In Spain they gave me an oil pan and let me change it outside the shop. This guy insisted on doing the work so we just talked to him. I wanted to check the valves but I didn't want to pay him to take apart my bike.. something I can probably do in half the time since I've done it before.. many times. So he finished up and then changed the oil on Sheldon's F800GS. It was interesting getting a close up look at that bike. The wind that day was horrible. It was blowing off the martians into the Adriatic Sea. I started the day with the snowboard mounted sideways but after the oil change I figured out a new way to mount it. Strapped to my tank and giant loop. There is enough room to put my leg in between the board bike comfortably. That night we stayed in a pretty nice hotel. The Secure parking was a unfinished hotel across the bay. It had a locking gate and we locked our bikes together. In the morning they were still so that's a plus. We ate at a pretty nice restaurant and I had some sort of fish from the sea. It was a whitefish with both eyes on the same side of its head. It was great! We walked around the town for a few drinks then slept.

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    All bundled up.

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    We tried to go this way but the road was closed.

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    I let the grumpy Croatian KTM guy sign my bike. Thought it would get him to smile :D

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    He did have a sweet 660 supermoto that I wanted though.

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    W.I.N.D.Y.

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    Fish.

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    Dec. 20 Makarska Croatia to Neum Bosnia and Herzegovina . 147 km
    Beautiful morning in Makarska. It was hard to leave. This place is like a paradise. Snow covered martians over looking a historic vilage/harbor on the sea. We started to ride south and after about a half hour noticed some twisty roads up into the mountains and wet exploring. We got up to around 1200 meters before the snow was to slick to continue. We got to ride some dirt in the mountains then we continued south toward Bosnia and Herzegovina. It was getting dark before we got to Neum and we found a hotel. The sunset was amazing though.

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    Sheldon talking with a guy from Switzerland

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    Hard to see.. but there is about 20 buildings in this picture.. or remains..

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    Some sort of farming

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    In Neum. I wonder how old these are?

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    The view.

    Dec. 21 Neum Bosnia and Herzegovina to Petrovac Montenegro. 198 km
    Sheldon and I split ways in once we were back in Coratia. He stayed in Dubrovnic and it sounds like he met some nice ladies there. I continued into Montenegro. The border police were great. They wanted me to drink beer and whiskey with them. I said tonight? "No.. Now. We drink beer all day. It keeps us warm and smiling". A couple hours later I got pulled over for speeding apparently I was going 65km/h in a 60? Its a good thing he didn't see me before I slowed down for the corner. So I paid the fine and kept going. After talking with the cop for a while I almost got him to let me go but his boss was on the other side of the street so he said he had to. Oh well. Ticket number 2 for the trip. Way cheaper then the one I got in Alaska. My plan was to stay in Budva but when I got there, it didn't feel right so I kept riding. When I got to Petrovac, I found a great Apartment for 30 euro. I wanted to see what the town was like so I found some dinner and drinks. For dinner I had pesto pasta.. only they added cream to the sauce. It was the most epic pesto I have had in a very long time. The bars in Montenegro were not like the ones in Croatia. Not many woman at all. I learned later that Montenegro and Albania have a substantial Muslim population so in the smaller towns, it is still taboo for the woman to go out. My bar tender at one place grew up in Sarajevo and she was there during the war. It is so unreal talking to people with these experiences.

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    Bosnia and Herzegovina.

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    Dubrovnic

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    I regret that I didn't have time to stop. It looks like an amazing place.

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    :lol3 I did a google translate on it.. and its not as funny as I would have hoped.

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    On the left is a mosque on an island. On the right (above the bike) is a church on an island. I think.

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    Dec. 22 Petrovac Montenegro to Shkodra Albania. 121 km
    In the morning I went back the same restaurant that I ate at the night before. It was called Cafe Azur and I highly recommend it. On the way out of town I was going into a grocery store to buy some water and an old lady was begging for money for food. So when I was inside I bought her a loaf of bread. When I gave it to her she said "no money money". Next I met this huge guy who was said "my friend my friend, how much would you have to pay for this in America". He opened his trunk to show me about 30 different Adidas track suits. I had to explain that I really didn't know because I don't wear Adidas track suits. Maybe I should? I might fit in better? He was funny. Apparently he gets them from a friend who works in an Adidas factory in Montenegro then sellse them for about 1/3 the price. If he would have been selling Klim out of the back of his car I might have been interested. He told me I should go over the mountains to the town of Virpazar because there is a festival that is going on there. All sorts of local wine, veggies, meats, fish ect. My plan was to ride along Scutari lake on the way south into Albania. But once I got to Virpazar, it was a mad house! There were probably 10k people trying to park their cars along the road. There is only 1 bridge across the river and it was closed for the festival. Only foot traffic. So I was not able to go along the lake. So I headed back to the coast and rode south some more. Almost in Albania I went past a cafe and a guy waved so I decided to stop for some coffee. They convinced me to try the soup which was a bean and vegetable soup. Just what I needed. At the border the line of cars was about 2 km long so I went to the front and the police waved me into a different line. They had me go on the sidewalk between the main building and the booths. I handed them my passport and the stamped it and I was on my way. Going into Albania reminded me a lot of Morocco. It was a bit of a reality check. In the first main town I saw an electrical shop and I thought they might have a toggle for my heated jacket. I lost the inline switch so I had not been able to use it. The owner had me follow him to 4 different shops and we couldn't find a toggle. So he gave me a lamp switch and I wired it inline. Then we drank some Albanian moonshine from a clear bottle with no label. They found a hotel for me and said I would have a secure place for the moto in a gas station/garage next door. I had some sea bass that night and it was very very good.

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    Breakfast.

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    New friends.

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    You can kindof see the town on the left and the road I wanted to take on the right.

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    It only took 5 minutes before I got sick of this and went to the front.

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    So many clean MK2 Volkswagens!

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    They are all trying to find me a switch.

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    I told him if he found me a switch, he could sign it. :deal

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    Dec. 23 Shkodra Albania to Ohrid Macedonia. 259 km
    I left Shkodra after some coffee and sweet pastry things. I had to make it to Ohrid Macedonia that night because I had a free hotel room. My friend Sanja from Skokje had called in a favor to one of her friends. The day was going good and I decided to get off the motorway and go through some small towns. I felt the familiar realise of air from my rear and pulled over on the side of the road. Sure enough I had a flat. It doesn't take long to draw attention so I pushed the bike into a parking of a wood shop and asked them if I could fix my flat. They offered an air compressor and everything. I had picked up a nail and it ripped the tube so it was not fixable. After the spare tube was in and aired up, the guys made me have coffee with them. Good bunch of people. I continued on and got a bit lost in the capitol city of Tirana. Traffic is crazy. Once again I was having flashbacks to Marrakech. It was dark by the time I was climbing the pass to the Macadonian border. Heated jacket was a life saver. The border guards didn't keep me long and an hour later I was in a nice warm hotel room in Ohrid. I wanted to go explore the city but the owners of the hotel insisted I eat and drink in their bar. Since I was a guest I didn't argue. So from what I have seen from my moto.. the "scenery" in Macadonia looks quite nice.

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    Some old factory..

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    A guy threw the nail before I had a chance to take a picture. Its probably waiting for the next RTW traveler in the street.

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    In Morocco they would be on the roof!

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    Is this a 3 wheeled vehicle or 5?

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    Capital city.

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    Dec. 24 Ohrid Macedonia to Larissa Greece. 314 km
    It was a sunny cold day when I started. They cooked me a great cheese omelet and a few cups of coffee. I rode from Ohrid to Bitola then south into Greece. I was a little bit worried about getting back into the Euro union because I arrived in Europe in August and you are technically supposed to have 3 months in the Schengen area. When I took the tunnel into France, I never got a stamp on my passport. All my worries were for nothing and let me through with no troubles. In the first main town I met a great dude from Belgium who is biking to Mongolia. Raf plans to go through Iran this winter and get to Mongolia some time next summer. He has until September before he has to go back to work. I predict he will get to Mongolia and continue to China. He said the dogs had been messing with him so he made a spear out of wood just in case. Here is his blog.
    After drinking coffee with Raf and continuing on, I was running out of daylight. I rode motorway for most of the way down through Greece. The thing I noticed in Greece was I never had long visibility. Sometimes it was fog. Sometimes it was smog. But it reminded me of LA. I made it to Larissa after dark and met up with my couch surfing host. I was taken in by an amazing family for Christmas.

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    I am running out of space! I might have to get a paint pen for the black at some point. :freaky

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    Ohrid lake

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    Interesting driving saw machine. These guys built them from hand.

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    I was tempted to take the board off and use it.. soon enough..

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    Beer from Macedonia! Its quite good.

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    Raf!

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    See his spear? :deal

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    This made me a bit angry.

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    I really wish I could have spent more time in these countries. I suggested that my brother meet me in Croatia instead of Italy but he wanted to go to Florence. I would have much rather spent a week in Split Croatia the Florence Italy. Such is life. I will have 4 months in Georgia to chill, snowboard and regroup.
    This is where I will end her for now. I need to go and check the valves on the moto and replace a turn signal that decided to commit suicide. I hope everyone felt as much love this Christmas and New years as I did.

    And I'll leave you with a teaser for Greece.
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  13. francs

    francs Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
    282
    Location:
    Ljubljana Slovenija
    There is no mosque in Kotor bay ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sveti_Đorđe ) Both are catholic ( men and a women "principle" ) .
    VW golf 2 is ultimative offroad machine in Montenegro. You should see where they can go with them.
  14. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

    Joined:
    May 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,706
    Location:
    In the mountains?
    Thanks for the fact check!

    I know what a golf 2 can do. my first car was an $50 86 GTI. All it needed was a clutch and some exhaust work. We beat the snot out of that thing. :deal
  15. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2007
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    4,089
    Location:
    Wanaka, New Zealand, Currently RTWing
    Lovin your report Noah ... want to get over that way so following with interest.

    Cheers Andi
  16. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

    Joined:
    May 12, 2010
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    1,706
    Location:
    In the mountains?
    Cheers Andi! Sorry to hear about your bike woes. Hope you get everything sorted. I'll be following yours in South America also. Do you know how you are crossing the Darian gap? I know a guy with a boat if you are interested :evil
  17. Cortez

    Cortez BAZINGA!

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,170
    Location:
    Croatia
    I bet even most VW buffs never knew an offroad version of the Golf 2
    existed!
    :deal

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    EDIT:
    It was called the Golf 2 Country - more pics here: http://tinyurl.com/am56veb
    (link to images search at google)
  18. Cortez

    Cortez BAZINGA!

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2006
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    Location:
    Croatia
    Bullet holes?
    1991-1995.
  19. Low594

    Low594 Adventuring Creep

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2008
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    1,162
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    Never been a Golf fan but thats cool looking! Needs a roof rack, lights and jerry cans!
  20. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

    Joined:
    May 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,706
    Location:
    In the mountains?
    The VW Golf country. There were like 3400 built and only a couple made it to the states.
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    This would be more to your liking?

    I would also love to get my hands on a Golf Rallye 16 valve g60 supercharged all wheel drive. :deal

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    There were only a handful of these imported to the US for the rally teams but in Europe you can still buy them.