Rub 'n Buff

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 390beretta, Feb 12, 2014.

  1. 390beretta

    390beretta Long timer

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    Has anyone used this product on aluminum wheels, engine castings etc. and what was your experience? For those parts, it would be the "silver leaf" rub n buff. How about the "ebony"? Also, specifically, what method of application did you use, how long did you let it dry, did you "thin" it with something??

    Thanks in advance!
    #1
  2. 390beretta

    390beretta Long timer

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    Bump, anybody?
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  3. redprimo

    redprimo Been here awhile

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    It's Been a while since I've used any of the stuff and never on metal. I use my finger to apply it a thin a coat as possible and then buff it up to a soft sheen with a soft cloth. It's more like a shoe polish than a coating.
    #3
  4. xavier296

    xavier296 Alaska n'Back

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    I used it on a final drive, transmission, and aluminum air box. A little goes a very long way, and I cleaned each item very well before applying. I recommend it!
    #4
  5. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    if its what I think you are talking about I used some on my steampunk bike & was pretty impressed with it. my parts were chromed originally, I scuffed them and painted them with a most heinous epoxy primer, Scotch-brite buffed the cured surface & rubbed it with the antique gold (which really looks like brass,,, because it is). I tried everything I could get my hands on and of all the antiquing and pseudo paint coating things out there, it worked the best. of course, nothing beats real paint or plating

    edti: got to thinkin.... I also used it on bolt heads, brake rod & such... worked fine for that too
    #5
  6. squish

    squish Out of the office.

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    It's decent
    It's got a strong solvent smell
    It holds up decently well to UV light and salt air exposure

    Someone said it's like shoe polish and that's the closest way to describe it.

    If used on porous, like wood surfaces it takes a lot to get an even finish so I use shellac first.

    Ebony didn't work very well in darkening faded black plastics but it did even out the finish a little.

    Silver leaf is too bright for most cast aluminium, pewter is better, mixing pewter and silver also gives a decent finish.
    I just mix them together on something then I use that to apply it.

    Use gloves the stuff stains skin
    #6
  7. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    I do have some Ebony, haven't found a good use for it yet, lousy on plastics but does attenuate the differences between black and shiny Alu where paint may be worn out on painted surfaces.

    Maybe today??? I should do my boots, a little on the leather buffing wheel aka old floor polisher????

    Plastics I use leather dye first then shoe polish, I sure had good results with that. And that's on plastics I intentionally defaced with either the sander or brake cleaners. And then went on to the bike parts, had to know first if I could work with the cheap products available almost anywhere.:wink:

    I am done detailing bolt heads in place for the year with the little paint brush/diluted Rub'n'Buff, the rusty ones I can't remove like the brake calipers halves, I know it will protect them for a year or so.:wink:
    #7
  8. HapHazard

    HapHazard Waiting for Gudenov

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  9. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    The OP has already seen my pics somewhere else. Probably where I told him to come here and search.:D

    I'd rather not say too much here....hard to convince some that for some of us a total dismantling and Vapor blasting Blah Blah Blah is not the way to go.:wink:

    But then anyone to whom I have displayed the product and most probably given a tube has adopted it. More on that at the end of March....:rofl

    But I'll go do my boots with the Ebony.:wink:
    #9
  10. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    plus 1 on the small paint brush. works good for bolt heads
    #10
  11. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    Some of us have too much snow/ice in the yard.:cry I wouldn't do that in the summer.....:clap

    Did good on my boots yesterday the Ebony. Part of an old tube all dried out. Squeezed out with the needle nose pliers,reactivated with a little paint thinner and the parts of the boots I had time to do look like new. Rubber toe pads for sure so it does work well on rubber.

    And that's the good thing about it, I have been using the same container to dilute the silver stuff for a couple years. Even the residual dried out stuff is still good, all you have to do is dip the small paint brush in thinner.....swirl it around the container and you can pick up enough to do a few bolt heads.:D
    #11