"Russification" of BMW G650X.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bli55, Jan 18, 2014.

  1. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    479
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    ... isn't just a made up word to describe the modifications necessary to tackle Russian roads - plentiful and...different. :norton
    It also signifies a deeper meaning of this thread, and the purpose of my project.

    From:

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    To:

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    ..........

    List of main modifications:

    For 2013.

    - Hot-Rod Welding: X-tank, luggage rack, nav. tower bracket and footpeg "hard-parts".
    - Scheffelmeier: "rally" bashplate, "Terry's" oil cooler, sprocket cover and wheel spacers.
    - Reshaped seat.
    - Steel gear and brake pedals, adjustable V-Trec brake and clutch levers.
    - HDB handguards, Rox offset bar risers, heated grips, Double-take mirrors.
    - HEL (UK) brake lines.
    - BMW F800GS - derived front fender.
    - DIY steel tower, screen and dashboard.
    - Koso slimline oil temperature display and voltmeter.
    - Garmin Montana.
    - FX-R 3.0 (2.5 inch) bixenon projector, VisionX Solstice Solo 10W: 2x LED DRL's.
    - Touratech/KTM chain guide.
    - EBC stiffer clutch springs.
    - Unifilters: main and pre-filter.

    For 2014.

    - Hot-Rod Welding: alloy nav. tower + KTM 690RR fairing, alloy RAM balls.
    - Marzocchi Shiver Factory Works 45mm forks, Motion Pro air bleeders.
    - Titanium SR-Racing exhaust, header + link pipe ceramic-coated, DIY composites heat shield.
    - FX-R 3.0 (3 inch) bixenon projector, Hella 60mm halogen low beam.
    - Permaglide 1225 steel clutch cover bushing.
    - DIY 10mm alloy footpeg lowering brackets.
    #1
  2. lobolator

    lobolator Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Oddometer:
    321
    Location:
    Corner of Kanc and Bear Notch
    Nice ride report as well.
    Thanks for sharing.
    :clap
    #2
  3. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    479
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    OK, finally, RR is filled and filed. :deal

    Time to get hands dirty!

    (Note: this build is not real time!)

    Not yet, anyway. This is the goal - get it to A current stage before next riding season!!
    Prob not too difficult considering the "to do list" and how slowly the crosses are appearing! :D
    However, I will now try not to fall down a trap of posting too many pics and too many general details.

    Instead, I will concentrate on custom solutions, on fabrications, doing things alternative way, basically, whilst keeping details of maintenance and standart bolt-ons to a minimum.

    Let's go!!!! :norton

    First addition was these Rox offset risers.

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    Don't generally like logos, so they go on the inside.

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    Next, another standart issue. So I got a used (very used!) Funduro gear lever.

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    Bike must have been standing neglected for years. I mean, 1700 km in 6 years is not what I'd call sympathetic.
    As a result, violent condensation inside airbox and crankcase breather.

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    For peace of mind, right cover was removed and cleaned religiously.

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    Then it was time for valve check. Whilst in there, fresh NGK's went in.

    All in spec, but the tightest inlet at 0.05mm has prompted me to do another one now, 10000km later.
    I found it really cool how there were numbers scribed by hand! And they matched!

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    I'm a fan of Dimple magnetic oil bolts. They are f---ng strong!!! I just didn't have anything heavier than this axe.

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    For comparison, stock bolt struggled even with some pliers or something. Another bonus to the Dimple is a more standart and manageable hex size. :1drink


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    Part of preparation to front end lighting and instruments, I wanted to monitor voltage and temperature.
    Being not quite ready to mess with the oil tank, I decided to go the simpler route (read = bodge job) and cut into the oil return pipe. I figured it would be easier and cheaper to replace if I screwed up bigtime.

    You can see a potential problem, which left me worried for some time - much reduced cross section, albeit at only a small section. (stock=right)

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    Part of profilactic work on the clutch, I installed heavier springs (on left). Both to prolong it's life and help cope with slippier SN rated oil.

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    Getting a little desperate on time, I hacked into the oil pipe in situ, cutting as much as I dared to try and keep it clear from hitting swingarm at compression, whilst not cutting too much to avoid clamping the hose on a bend.

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    Meanwhile, box of goodies was growing! :evil


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    Gear lever was scraped, bent and painted. Yep, it was time to get at least a vice and G clamps! :D


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    Eventually, oil probe was installed. Clearance was very tight and I didn't like how it looked. Luckily, no leaks (loctite 648 lol!). :puke1


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    There was no way back now though. I just hoped it wouldn't get destroyed by the swingarm - it looked further out than before and now had extra thickness from hose and clamp.

    (Harder off roading revealed this to be a problem. Swingarm was abraded and hose showing signs of developing cracks.
    Apart from that, it worked OK until the wire broke due to being pushed around together with rear brake hose. My mistake) :puke1


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    Hated the stock bashplate, especially for exposed oil pipe - in my opinion, THE most vulnerable part of entire underbody.

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    Had a tap lying about, so that went on airbox drain. Very useful!!


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    Weight shedding to compensate for all to come! :D

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    #3
  4. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    479
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Next, I turned my attention to radiator. I wanted more protection and hated the original design blocking airflow head on. Maybe it was because of high fender?
    But X-countrys have a low fender and also this stupid design.

    Colebatch and Terry once reported their fix - http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20064822&postcount=666

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    I cut mine out.




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    Then got some stainless mesh wire and ziptied it with some edge trim to the rad shroud. It went on the outside despite an already small clerance between front fender (soon to be low) and radiator, primarily for better protection.
    It also fits flush as before and I like the look. :D


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    Toys arriving from the states...


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    Out of interest, I would weigh parts being replaced.

    1890 g for standart grips, mirrors and optional BMW hand guards.


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    2870 g for HDB setup, double take mirrors, heated grips and a pair of chinese switches.


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    Smoothed out the lower clamps.


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    I asked Paul to send spacers with the handguards to provide a bit more freedom on the controls. Downside is they were very heavy, over 200 g ...

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    Later I added an extension to handlebars to make more room for extra switches before the taper starts.

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    Bought a bike lift and did some general cleaning and inspecting, replacing many original bolts with stainless and proper hex sizes (BMW insists on having hex sizes as you'd find on threads one size smaller...)


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    Glad to have checked and regreased steering bearings.


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    Note where the fork is resting on! Story about the seat will come shortly.

    Unfortunately, something happened when the forks were removed and I gouged big scratches in the clamp...

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    More goodies came in from Germany!


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    Scheffelmeier's wheel spacers, oil cooler and sprocket guard.


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    His bashplate, a true work af art!!

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    Also ordered some real clever tire irons to cut down on number and weight of tools.


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    This must be the coolest packaging for a sprocket!


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    Got some KTM wheel nuts (26mm hex? BMW, WTF????) and took it to my mate to get the outer ring turned down to match original nuts. See also the handlebar extensions.


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    With just over 2000 km, original wheel spacers ALREADY showing signs of wear (stainless on left). :wink:

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    Now, remember the oil pipe?? :puke1


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    Scheffelmeier's bashplate is comparable in size even to a stock Africa twin huge beast of a plate, IMHO the best factory fitted bashplate to any bike to date.
    Except that Sch's one is a lot thicker, tougher and uses premium grade alloy.


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    Comparing it to stock bashplate really puts things in perspective.
    As you can imagine, it is a lot heavier though. 4.8 kg vs 800 g.
    A whole 4 kg of extra metal!! :eek1

    Partially this is due to toolbox option I opted for, but the benefits outweigh the extra weight (pun intended?):
    heavy tools and spares can be moved down there during long trips.
    Tools can also be kept on the bike at all times so no need to take an extra bag when just going for a short ride out.
    It is also carried very low and centrally, so you shouldn't feel it too much.


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    Had to grind a little off a weld on the frame section.


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    There's one stick I have and it is with the mounting proposition.
    Itis supposed to be "rubber-mounted" but there's no hard metal to metal contact so you can't get a good preload on the bolt and therefore no clamp force. All you are meant to rely on is loctite.
    Even when tightened real far...still not happy. :huh

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    Next, goodies from Zwaanshoek! :D


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    Erik has been a real star to help with my obsessive need to change every little thing to make it as best as I can imagine.
    Eventually, we found a solution to how I could have a lockable cap but have it vented externally (read - higher) and not through the lock barrel. :evil

    So I found a company in UK where the owner was very helpful in contacting their factory in Italy to come up with a model that used some standart thread. I then ordered 2 such caps to be sent directly to Erik, where he received them and did his magic to create this:

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    I later measured it to contain 9.7 litres, which is actually larger than stock tank holds (9.3)!!!!!

    Also ordered his clamp on solution for front subframes.


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    And side hard parts.

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    So, with the clamp on bracked installed, now I had a baseline to work from and build my own "subframe".
    To keep it simple, decided to do it by hand and use steel in case emergancy welding would be needed.
    Had to buy few more tools, jigsaw and clamps, for a start...
    Picked out a few sheets of scrap steel, judging by eye and feel of the weight, from a local supplier and measured later at 1.2 mm. :deal

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    Lots of inspiration came from Erik's own work on other X-challenges, as well as this huge "Rallye navigation bracket photo thread":

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684282
    #4
  5. Calikatoom

    Calikatoom Norcal Moto Nut

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2005
    Oddometer:
    289
    Location:
    Modesto CA
    Looks like a fun project!
    #5
  6. casperghst42

    casperghst42 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    218
    Location:
    Rotterdam, The Netherlands (in exile)
    Just one suggestion, change the clutch cover, and the clutch puller... if the current clutch cover is the one which is all aluminium then you'll wish you'd done it at some point ....


    Casper
    #6
  7. Bike Nomad

    Bike Nomad Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2011
    Oddometer:
    338
    Location:
    Central Newfoundland, Canada
    Dude. You had impressed the heck out of me with your picture heavy RR on Iceland where you must have covered the vast majority of every road and rideable track in the country. Now this most excellent build thread for dessert! Thank you again. I've got a question on the toolbox on your bash plate. I went over to their website for a bit and had a look around. I know the tool box is advertised as water proof when new, otherwise weather resistant--and I can see the sheet of black rubber sealing yours in your pictures. My questions are--how water proof was the design in heavy rain? In immersion crossing streams? If you got water in there, how hard was it to drain out? Did you seal items in there in zip-loc bags, small dry bags or similar? Any other comments on the toolbox? :ear
    #7
  8. Johnnyboxer

    Johnnyboxer Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,146
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
    Great work:clap
    #8
  9. motoreiter

    motoreiter Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,384
    Location:
    Berlin, Germany
    Just found this thread...I've got a G650X in Moscow, let me know if you pass through.

    What can you tell us about that Scheffelmeier oil cooler? I thought I had all of his toys but hadn't seen that one.

    I've just picked up a throttle booster and a steering dampner for mine, have you considered those options?
    #9
  10. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    479
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Calikatoom, very much so!

    :freaky

    casperghst42, somewhat ahead of you here, but thanks for the suggestion!
    I want to keep this in chronological order, but my mission on that clutch cover has just finished (wait and see why, enough to say it would've not been much more expensive to get brand new cover from the dealer and a lot quicker!)

    :freaky

    Bike Nomad, I can see why it would be advertised dry when new, but not necessarily when used. You would expect it to only lose seal if the structure itself got bent. Unlikely!
    Now, matter of fact is that this type of design should be possible to make 100% waterproof, 100% of the time (hopefully, we can disregard possible structural damage). The lid is solid, the hinges are solid and the clasps are solid.

    In my opinion, it is missing a good thick sheet of rubber and that is what I'm considering to upgrade to in the future.

    It seems that the supplied "seal" is a foam and might actually get wet itself, although that's hard to tell. But it definitely felt damp inside, that is the actual sheet of black sealing material.

    :freaky

    Johnnyboxer, not without some help from UKGSER!

    :freaky

    motoreiter, Moscow? X-challenge? I think I know! =))

    No doubt, cooler adds useful oil capacity.
    Again, for the purpose of chronologicity (?), I will postpone to go into details about the effectiveness of actual cooling.
    Hopefully, once the oil temperature can be monitored reliably, I will do some km's with and without to test it.

    As for degisn and fitment, this is probably the best post:
    http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20759441&postcount=1868

    Throttle booster - is that what plugs between intake air temperature sensor??
    Steering dampener, I don't know.
    I'm not fast or hard enough of a rider to decide on it's need at this time (didn't even bend stock rims!!). :D
    #10
  11. motoreiter

    motoreiter Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,384
    Location:
    Berlin, Germany
    I just noticed you're in Kazan...watcha doing there, I know some people there...

    I haven't seen your full build thread, but what did you do for a luggage rack? I designed a pretty nice one for my XC, but had to order two from the cutter so I have an extra one if you are looking for a rack.
    #11
  12. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    479
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Trial and error metalwork began.

    Mocked up brackets for low fender from cardboard, then 1.6 mm steel.

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    Not perfect, but something to work with.

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    Then mocked up a bracket for proper horns, as well as relocating the rear brake reservoir to clear space for that oil cooler. :ear


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    In preparation with work on the front tower, I experimented with this set of hole saws I ebayed and how weight could be saved without weakening the structure. :D

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    I redid it and used the lower bracket subsequently, also adding a strip to tie it together with another mounting point on the frame (all from 2 mm aluminium).


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    Stub secured for convenient mounting of the reservoir with just a nut.


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    12-cell Antigravity (6.9 real Ah) weighed with full hardware vs. OEM battery:
    1242 g against 3120 g, or a 60% weight saving. :clap

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    Main feed wire for auxilaries (2.5 mm sq.), fused, all joints soldered and sealed and protected inside plastiс conduit.

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    Got the fuse block ready.

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    Had another one to play around with, but it was too bulky and with only 6 outlets.

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    Reluctantly, ordered 2 items from Touratech....One needed machining work, the other was outright ridiculous! :huh
    This was also a good oppotunity to install side parts since the brake pedal was to be removed.

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    To lower the pedal enough, needed to cut extra thread on the shaft, make a larger eccentric and see the spacer which in the picture above is what this pedal pivots on? (btw, stock has bearings inside that!!!)
    Well, is was not deep enough, so it wouldn't protrude enough through the pedal and, when tightened, the washer would catch on the pedal and bind it...despite that it's a bent spring type washer. So the spacer also needed work on the lathe!


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    2nd disappointment: compare "Touratech" chain guide with a stock KTM item above (hint: partnumbers match =))) )


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    All would be well at least if they bothered to cut it smoothly or at least run a brush through to clean the swarfs, or better yet not sell you a KTM part with a few bits of metal at a huge mark-up...

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    Grrr!! Used my own bolts and washers too. :evil

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    Taking shape here!


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    70 g and future headache saved with sidestand switch! :D


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    Plugged the axles, now that the nuts are closed and won't let water out when parked.


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    Then, Erik's headstock bracket went on after removing headlight, instruments and laying through new wiring.
    That includes the main earth wire and main +ve feed to all auxiliaries, +ve feed for the horns as well as some other bits.


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    Top panel needed cutting to clear new bracket and wiring loom. :deal


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    Now starts the interesting bit - the making of a tower!
    It all started with a mental experiment - you just need to imagine a ravaging desert, or an endless steppe, or lava-ladden desert, replace the table background with that and see how this dash arrangement works.
    For me, this was it:


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    #12
  13. craigincali

    craigincali Just hanging around

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,681
    Location:
    A town called Hell
    I like what you are doing, looks great!! I have to ask, why didn't you go with the Touratec Rally Fairing? I got the hint you aren't crazy about TT but just wondering why you built your own.
    #13
  14. Bike Nomad

    Bike Nomad Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2011
    Oddometer:
    338
    Location:
    Central Newfoundland, Canada
    The fancy rally style fairing he had got discombobulated shortly after arriving in Iceland, so he quickly fabricated the one in the picture above. You should go read his ride report it is exceptional. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=922852:deal

    EDIT: Correction. The side panels had to be removed in post#19 of the RR--I had mis-remembered it and thought the 2mm polycarbonate had been added then which is what I meant by quickly fabricated--which it had not, it was remaining from the original design. Sorry about the bad info.
    #14
  15. craigincali

    craigincali Just hanging around

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,681
    Location:
    A town called Hell
    I have read it. THE best RR I have ever seen.
    #15
  16. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    479
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Wow, your reviews have been very encouraging! :clap

    craigincali, sure you haven't missed any of these RR's??
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175189
    :D

    As for Touratech fairing, it was simply the lack of good reasons to wanting it vs. the reasons for making my own.
    Sure, it's plug and play, but where's the fun in that??
    Granted, with larger projectors, the head-on look is simply spectacular... :cry
    I drool on it since the very first time of seeing...

    It was basically that I wanted to try it myself, to see what one could make with limited tools and some sheet off cuts, with lots of ebaying, radio, sweat and running about. :evil

    That thread mentioned above gave lots of ideas but all seemed to be lacking something...a transparent windscreen! :rofl
    Yeah, for some reason I was thinking that a traditional opaque rally style fairing is good for high speed blasting, but would hinder visibility in normal driving.
    Now, considering my journey and how much (or, how little) I had to look THROUGH my windscreen, this is bull--it. :lol3
    I just didn't know it then.

    So I searched for bikes using a clear type of fairing, also thought about using a sportbike screen vertically...didn't work.

    This is when Honda steppes up into the picture.

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    Sorry, I meant this one... :D

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    Anyway, I now had a vague idea of what I needed to make, but I already knew it wasn't going to be as pretty as that CRF...I tried, worked hard on the looks too, i promise! :deal

    Also quite liked the look of modern car headlights, how they have a projector with a shroud behind a clear lens...And when retrofitted and painted black? Oh yeah!
    That's why you'll see a shroud in the coming pics.

    Needless to say, that also didn't work.

    Just to clarify, this tower and fairing were made BEFORE the trip, during which the plastic side panels were rendered useless. The structure itself performed flawlessly, and it was by no means "quickly fabricated"..


    PS. Can you now imagine the suprise to discover KTM using my idea for their 2014 edition of 450 rally?? :rofl:rofl

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    #16
  17. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    479
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Quick catch up on the seat before we go into fabrication.


    I specially chose a workshop that was close by so I could feel and see the materials, speak to the guy in charge and make sure we make it exactly as needed.

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    Little did I know that they had almost no experience with this type of thing...
    The guy must have forgotten or something, despite a good hour going over the details and lots of pictures of examples!

    It was a disappointing site to pick up what seemed to be a stock shape with shed loads of foam just piled on.
    This is considering my main message to him was to make it narrow at front, wide at back and lower overall.

    So I took it in again and we did it together.


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    Before and after:


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    On the bike.

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    Despite all that, it was SOOO much better than stock!
    Memory foam as a filler was a good call, just needs to be a bit firmer (or thicker), highly recommended! :clap (it is the pink stuff).

    Side parts made from "slippier" material weren't really necessary, and the extra stitching associated with it just rubbed off color and now looks horrible - all this will need to go at some point in favour of a one piece cover, with memory foam over a larger area, possibly a bit higher (flatfooting with luggage is actually lots better!)...

    Might try it myself! :evil
    #17
  18. Bli55

    Bli55 -

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2012
    Oddometer:
    479
    Location:
    Russia, N56 E49.
    Approach I took was to reduce available degrees of freedom one by one, dealing with clearance problems as they arose.
    Trying to comprehend EVERYTHING at the very start is impossible.

    So first I fixed an arbitrary angle to get reasonable height at resonable forward distance...with cardboard from a skip.

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    I wanted to mount the GPS (which is a heavy and heavily levered unit) on the main tower, not on dashboard. So that fixed another degree of freedom...GPS vs dashboard position. And thus the max height of tower.

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    Fancy as the words may be, it was, in reality, a hack job.

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    To give my head a rest, I turned to the bixenon. Idea was that the tower is as narrow as possible, as it only needed to contain the projector INSIDE it's box section...Everything else would be external.



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    It needed sealing. I didn't feel comfortable just slapping a load of sealant everywhere, especially near moving parts, so made a shroud of sorts for the solenoid.


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    And angle brackets for mounting (poor choice).


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    With that sorted, I could fix the width of opening of tower.

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    All this was done whilst constantly checking clearance between dashboard and handguards, forks etc...
    Something else I wanted differently done to more traditional designs is a much much lower, and much closer in dash, almost toching the top triple, in fact.


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    With holes marked out, it was time to step back, take a look over and pull some wiring through.

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    Next was the really painful part. To turn cardboard into steel...


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    :ear


    ---


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    Strategically placed lightening holes! High tech computer-calculated optimal positioning was achieved with state of the art plasma-laser-nano machine.

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    Don't do this without earplugs!

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    Remember how this was the painful part? Well, it was a lie.
    Because now there were 3 (+ one more to come) flat pieces that needed to come together to form 4 rectangles all of different sizes and all but two in different planes along the "depth" of the tower. :eek1

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    In Erik's original design, he uses the three larger bolts to both clamp the headstock bracket and to hold the tower (that is in addition to 6 smaller bolts).
    I would've thought those 6 alone (per side) would be plenty enough, but decided to do similarly. :deal

    Only difference is I decided to not use all of them as that would allow easier disassembly with two of the large bolts still clamping the bracket in it's original position strongly.

    Of course, I also needed this for process of mocking it all up...
    So only the centre one it would be!

    [​IMG]

    Oh, by the way, though it might be interesting to show my bending setup:

    [​IMG]

    Not bad, eh, symmetry wise?

    [​IMG]

    Shroud looks comical actually...This is about nearly the point of when I realised visions in my head don't materialise in the same fashion on the bike so it is about to become 100% function, 0% form.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Took me a while to realise if the dashboard really was sloped to one side...
    Turns out the outer mounting holes aren't on the same parallel!
    Perhaps, this thread title should say, in brackets, it's alternative name:

    "WTF, BMW???"

    Jokes aside, despite the brilliance of this machine, some things just keep on raising this question!
    :huh


    [​IMG]

    KOSO gauges additionally sealed and hardcore hook-loop tape was used to hold them.


    [​IMG]

    Made up split power and ground supplies to feed the gauges off the same line.

    [​IMG]

    Actually, desided to do most of additional wiring before putting it on. Although much more convenient to work on a desk, some lengths were not optimal and almost all were way way too long!
    This is only part of it:

    [​IMG]

    Cut another hole for main instruments, luckily there was enough material to use the same piece.
    Now it was level, but I noticed something else amiss.


    [​IMG]

    The stock plastic holder is much thicker, and rubber grommets sit real nice in it.
    I needed to add more thickness to mine too, so found some unused washers of correct OD. :wink:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Then took it to my welder, trying to keep pieces together with some temporary angle brackets and got the three top bits tacked together.
    Remounted and started adding dashboard brackets and bottom section.


    [​IMG]

    Notice said angle brackets.


    [​IMG]

    Finished off the projector. Made a connector for solenoid, installed bulb and sealed the whole lot.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Attacked the stock loom and soldered in my thing... :D


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Finally, took the entire thing for welding, where the master suggested stiching was enough and would minimise distortion.
    Proud to think some of them were mine. He very kindly taught me to do my first ever welds! :norton

    He also explained how even parts made on a jig can shrink during cooling and be ever so slightly at different shape when taken off. Now, this was a big problem for me, as the material was very thin and I put it together extremely tight on the clamp-on bracket. Additionally, some metal ran though and solidified on the inside corners and it was a major pain in the bottom to file away grain by grain, to reach deep inside and try to make sharp corners again...to make it slide back on bracket enough for the bolt holes to line up...

    In retrospect, it was extreme luck (and lots of bodging), to get away with making only one part. Might have even been quicker to just start from scratch (and most definitely nicer), but it was way too far in and I'm way too stubborn to give up. :D

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    1160 grams with dash! Not bad, just missed out on under a kilo. :deal

    [​IMG]

    Flimsy last minute creation to hold front fender on. I stopped caring about it at that point, as it seemed to not work as planned originally... I couldn't engage all the original holes (they are at different height and funny angles), and it was too tall in front. Was checking with fork caps removed and it seemed the only way was to cut lower portions..So I ended up hacking and hacking it more and more until it could've been sort of made to work and be really close to the wheel especially at the back to avoid hitting radiator at compression.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Kinda even symmetrical!
    In truth, I was setting off mentally prepared for this to be the first thing that would fail...
    It has ploughed through gravel, taken lots of beating, each fall made me immediately go and check on that right-hand bracket.

    Amasingly, it held up!!! :eek1


    [​IMG]

    Despite all trouble, stuff started taking shape. :clap

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Yep, black makes anything presentable! :D :rofl
    #18
  19. Twinmike

    Twinmike Grandpa

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Austria
    great job :clap
    i`m at the same progress with my XC, i will mount two Hella Premium BiHalogen but i have broken a clip from the headlight, so i have to wait for a new one
    #19
  20. Bike Nomad

    Bike Nomad Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2011
    Oddometer:
    338
    Location:
    Central Newfoundland, Canada
    What material did you use to seal up the bixenon projectors? Are they the same model of bixenon projectors that Colebatch uses?:ear
    #20