Say It Ain't So !!! Harbor Freight discontinues the MC tire changer ! What?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by scottro, Jan 16, 2012.

  1. KeithinSC

    KeithinSC Long timer

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    I saw that it was available again. Put in the order and it showed up 6 days later, used the 25% coupon code!
    Red paint doesn't match the main tire changer I bought last year:lol3
    The threads that screw the adapter into the regular base need some attention, and I have to dig up some delrin to make the scratch proof adapters, but it looks like a deal.
    #21
  2. baloneyskin daddy

    baloneyskin daddy bikaholic

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    I think they steal and copy someone elses designs and add their special el cheapo materials to the ingredience and sell that product just long enough to avoid legal action then move on to someother design.Some of their stuff works great and some are worthless but it's so cheap you almost have to take the gamble.:D
    #22
  3. snoman002

    snoman002 Been here awhile

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    Nah, this stuff is all made in Chinese factories and HF just looks through the distributors catalog and picked what they want. Not kidding actually, this stuff is made for world markets by cheap Chinese manufactures and retailers like HF and Northern Tool just pick what they want to carry. The Chinese recognize what the retailers want and allow certain items to be optioned different, painted different, or offer slightly different specifications. HF doesn't make anything, and I would be really surprised if they ever even asked a manufacture to make something specific, they just do retail.
    #23
  4. baloneyskin daddy

    baloneyskin daddy bikaholic

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    I was referring to the Chinese manufacturers in my statement.I've purchased some very well made ,allbut copies,of tools that I use in my trade that periodically need replaced whether its the el-cheapo or the higher dollar original,only to find that they are no longer available . In some instances replaced by another copy of a tool that I don't particularly like.
    #24
  5. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    glad to see that is back.
    NOT a fan of HF Chinese stuff, but this one works.

    i use that base and top mc attachment. works great with a mojo lever (copy of a coats lever) and upgraded nylon clamp blocks (mojo blocks) to protect your rims.
    http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm
    i followed mitch's building and learning progression on bmwrt.com from him buy his 1st oven and learning how to powder-coat. i've had my mojo lever over 10yrs and still works like a champ.


    ...however there is odd about this one??? there are no hooks on the end of the 3 blocks that would grab on to the rim and hold it (the tool screws inward and hold the rim with the 3 hooks). guys would just wrap the hook parts with electrical tape or use plasti-dip to coat these and keep your rim protected. mitch then came up bolt on top nylon hook blocks to protect your rim and also are larger to clear GS rims. http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoblocks.htm

    all i see is vertical end plate on the 3 ends, but no hooks???
    guess mojo blocks are a must now.

    it's not 100% on HF website but you need this base too.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-tire-changer-69686.html
    #25
  6. MaestroPNW

    MaestroPNW Me!

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    Got the same setup - the new version of the changer and mojo lever. As far as I understand (and it is stated on the mojo lever website), mojo blocks are not compatible with the new design (yet).

    Haven't set mine up yet, but I guess I'll try to fabricate a set of blocks from HDPE/Delrin or something similar.
    #26
  7. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    how does the new top part clamp or hold onto the rim?
    #27
  8. fragile_this_side_up

    fragile_this_side_up Long timer

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    pretty crapily. i just setup mine over the weekend. rim slipped off about 10 times. i'm still having trouble getting the new tire on. not happy so far.. :( i feel like a need a fancy "Mojobar" but i really don't want to lay out the cash.
    #28
  9. WoodButcher

    WoodButcher Long timer

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    I used some of the plasticote dip stuff on the rim holders of my original design one and that stopped the slipping.

    I also have found that I don't use the long bar anymore for mounting and unmounting the tire. Just for bead breaking. So with normal levers I don't apply any rotational force to the tire and they don't slip.
    #29
  10. KeithinSC

    KeithinSC Long timer

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    OK, problem.
    I got the new adapter the other day, assembled no problem. Tonight I dug out the base I had bought a couple years ago and try to thread the adapter onto it.
    Threads are different sizes.:becca


    Old, base has threads at .940"
    New adapter has threads at .992" (or close to it)
    Took some creative measures to get at the threads that are hidden inside the tube.

    Threads per inch are off also.

    It looks like the new supplier used the wrong screw on this one, anyone else had this problem?

    I'll call them tomorrow, if nothing else I'll get it straight with the welder this weekend:wink:

    (Adapter has a Made in Vietnam label)
    #30
  11. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    the original design had hooks on the end of those 3 clamp points to hold the rim by pushing inwards. you could clamp with enough force and those hooks would hold but would often scratch the rim or leave red paint. also the hooks are too small for boxer gs rims. mojo blocks fixed all of this.

    this design has nothing but a flat bar that is suppose to hold by pressure?
    i went to HF and looked at it. useless pos beyond belief. until mitch comes up with some new bolt on mojo blocks or someone has a solution it's useless. the original design also came with 2 different sized center bar.

    yes the only time i use the crude mount bar is to break a bead. i lay a few towels on the ground and crack the bead in a second. i guess if you're using just hand spoons, then a mx stand http://cycleplicity.com/products/38...o2&network=g&gclid=COHMiu6PrLoCFeJDMgodihAA-g will work just fine.

    the design idea with the mojo lever and tubeless tires is you get the bead started, lube the edge up with ruglyde, position the mojo lever & pivot it on the center bar. then you just walk around the tire and the mojo lever mount end moves the bead onto the rim. it takes 10 seconds to walk around the tire and mount a bead. you then repeat for the other bead and fill the tire with fast air inflation.

    this is exactly how my mount tool is setup. that top L piece is trashed and useless. all you need is the center pivot bar. when he has the tire off, you can see the added white mojo blocks.

    <iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/d_J5_sRRiAk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    you can see the original design with those hold hooks in this video.
    like many he coated his hooks, but mojo blocks are better.
    when he refers to the no-mar bar, he's talking about mojo levers.


    <iframe width="480" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/iyg2WgSxGlI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    here is the new design. who the hell though this would hold a mc rim???
    most everything about the new top part is designed different (in a bad way).
    the original had quick removable pegs and clips to reposition the 2 clamp pieces (the 3rd screwed in). the new one has slow to move bolts, but this can be fixed with a trip to the hardware store. the clamps piece mount holes are drilled different. the clamps, or lack of, are different. the supplied center bar has 2 size option in uncoated alum. this new one is 1 size only with red paint that will be left lingering in your bearings. from above we see the threads are not the same as the old.
    HF did a real clusterfuck in whomever they had build this new one.

    if you look at the original design it has a flat metal surface ahead of those lips.
    when i looked at the new design that area ahead of those upright plates (where the hooks should be) is devoid of a flat plate. it's on that flat plated (ahead of the hooks) that the mojo blocks are mounted. you drill the plate and bolt through the blocks and plate. w/o flat bar in that area the current mojo block design has no place to sit on.

    more than likely mitch will make the mojo blocks stand taller in height and bolt through the back plate (that is suppose to hold the rim) & make it wider so it sits out-board on the top of the 2 upright pieces of metal.

    [​IMG]
    #31
  12. fragile_this_side_up

    fragile_this_side_up Long timer

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    Yup. Pretty much what I found too. The center bar doesn't even work on my vstrom wheel. I am using a 2 ft 1/2 extension.

    All in all im pretty pissed.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
    #32
  13. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Ignoring the fact that Mitch stole his design from a friend of mine, I actually think this new design of HF unit will be easier to use once you fabricate a new block for it. Maybe a wedge block to hold the tire off the rim even.

    I might see if I can get one and design a block Mitch could steal! :lol3

    Jim :brow
    #33
  14. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    the center bar is too wide to fit inside the bearing?

    go get some thinner alum. round bar and cut it to size.
    the original design came with a thicker and thinner center bar.
    it doesn't need to match the width of the hole in the tool where it sits into.
    sure it will move around some, but it will still work.
    #34
  15. biometrics

    biometrics Been here awhile

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    No modifications to the new tool are necessary, and neither would the mojo blocks be necessary...

    Get yourself a 12" section of appropriately sized automotive heater hose.

    Cut it into 3 equal length pieces. (For you non-wrenching types that means 3 pieces 4 inches long)

    Slit one side of the hose lengthwise so they will fit on the edge of your rim (after you have broken the bead).

    Place them on your lower rim edge at the locations where these new strange looking rim holderz will grab/touch your wheel, and tighten the motorcycle wheel attachment till you can't move the rim. Change your tire.

    When the hose pieces wear out, just replace them.

    Problem solved for less than $5.00.

    OR --- you can wait until the new mojo blocks are designed, engineered, stolen, and produced for sale. :eek1
    #35
  16. epix1718

    epix1718 Been here awhile

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    I got my "newly designed" version yesterday, put it together and yup it sucks in stock format for holding the wheel.

    What I simply did was wrap the wheel holders in a few layers of "Rescue Tape" which is a rubbery silicon compound. and it held the wheel tightly after that.

    Also toss the top device and goto your hardware store and pick up a $5 2ft section of course threaded 3/4" rod. It will mount right into the stock center ring on the changer. If 3/4" is too wide for your wheels go with 5/8".. will roll around a bit but still plenty enough to seat in the hole.
    #36
  17. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    I have an old 24" Snap-on 3/8" extension that I use in my tire changer. It bends a bit, but is plenty strong, and always pops back into straight on its own. I think threaded rod is kind of weak, and would tear up the tire bar, and the bearing surfaces on a GS wheel.

    [​IMG]
    This center bar?

    Unless I misunderstood what you are using it for. :dunno
    #37
  18. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    #38
  19. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    indeed the top part is not needed. everyone just trashes it.
    the 1st version came with 2 thickness of rod like in the pic above.
    you used the thickest rod you could that would fit through your bearing.
    you want smooth rod as the mount bar (the mojo is square bar thus a flat surface) pivots around the bar as you mount/dismount. threaded bar would be bad and tear up the bar and possibly the inner bearing surface.
    #39
  20. bwalsh

    bwalsh Long timer

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    #40