Scooter Maintenance for Noobs

Discussion in 'Battle Scooters' started by klaviator, Aug 23, 2012.

  1. klaviator

    klaviator Long timer

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    Based on his previous posts, and the stupidity of the one above, I wouldn't take Tacoma's advice on changing a light bulb. But then, it is possible that he knows better than the engineers who designed your scooter:huh. I'll let you decide.
    #41
  2. hexnut

    hexnut Been here awhile

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    I would say he would have trouble pouring piss out of a boot with the directions written on the heel.
    #42
  3. klaviator

    klaviator Long timer

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    :lol3:lol3:lol3

    I'm not sure he can actually read.
    #43
  4. steveb126

    steveb126 Adventurer Anonymous

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    thanks klaviator, another worthwhile post/thread. You da man !

    By the way picked up a new 2012 Super 8 150 August 17th, loving it. Already have 500 miles on it and did the break in service myself at 238 miles. I'm a semi-retired automatic transmission rebuilder by trade so I gots tools and experience :D.
    #44
  5. klaviator

    klaviator Long timer

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    Great, make sure you post some pics. I've got 7600 miles on mine. I'm getting ready to replace the belt and rollers. Still on the original tires. So far it's been an easy scooter to work on.
    #45
  6. klaviator

    klaviator Long timer

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    One of the , if not the most common cause of stranding a rider on the road is a flat tire. Since few scooter have a spare tire, it's repair the tire or get a tow. Often the flat can be repaired, at least temporarily.

    Flats can be caused by many things such as a leaking valve stem or core, or a leaking bead. Probably the most common cause is a puncture from some sharp object like a nail or screw.

    The procedure for fixing a flat is different for tube type tires than for tubeless tires. Since all modern scooters, as far as I know, come with tubeless tires, I'm only going to cover that.

    Fixing a flat is basically four steps or less.

    1. Find the source of the flat.
    2. Remove the object that caused it - if applicable.
    3. Plug the hole/stop the leak.
    4. reinflate the tire.

    Sounds simple but let me go into more details.

    Sometime finding the flat is simple, sometimes not. If you have a slow leak from the valve of bead, you may not be able to find it. However, if it's a slow leak, you should be able to notice you have a problem before your tire is completely flat. Actually, you should find it before you start your ride if you look at your tires. But, if you do notice it on the road and can't find the reason for the leak, just add air to bring the tire up to pressure, check it again, and ride it home or to a dealer, stopping to check it every so often. As long as it's a real slow leak, this should work.

    More commonly, when you check your tire, there will be a nail or something sticking out, or just a hole. If you find an object in your tire, pull it out. Sometimes this is not that easy. That's what the pliers or vice grips are for. Then, take the reamer from your tire repair kit, and run it through the hole. Instructions on doing this should come with your tire repair kit. One caution I'll throw out. Don't go overboard with the reamer and make the hole real big. Then, try to get some glue into the hole. Put a sticky string on to the insertion tool as per the instructions and put some glue on it. Then insert the tool into the hole untill the string is most of the way in and pull it out. The sticky string will stay in the hole and plug it. Then let the glue set up a bit and reinflate the tire. I carry a CO2 inflater but a bicycle pump will also work. Let it set up a bit more them use a sharp knife or razor to cut off the part of the string sticking out of the hole. Then ride the bike home or to a dealer to get a permanent fix.

    How long should the glue set up? I don't really know. The instructions on the kits I have don't say anything about letting the glue set but it just makes sense to me. If anyone knows more on this, please let us know.

    A repair of this type is supposed to be temporary. Some people do a repair of this type and then keep it until the tire is worn out. There is the possibility of the repair failing although it has never happened to me except one time when I had a huge hole and it would just spit out the sticky string. I got it to work by using two strings but I only rode it home then replaced the tire.

    Another possible way to get you home is to use Fix a flat. I used it a few time way back in the day before I found out about plug kits. I had mixed results. It makes a big sticky mess and the mechanic who has to take off the tire probably won't be happy. You may be charged extra for the clean up. I'm not an expert on fix a flat, but in the tire repair threads I have read, opinion was overwhelmingly against it. I don't carry it and won't recommend it.

    There are some limitations to tire repair. You can generally fix a small hole but a cut or really large whole or a puncture of the sidewall may not be repairable. Same with a blow out. Some common sense is required. Don't ride on a tire that is likely to go flat again, or if you do, ride on the shoulder at low speed.

    Tire plug kits can be found at motorcycle/scooter shops, auto parts stores, and even places like Wally World. I prefer the kits with sticky strings over the plug type. They have always worked for me. I once used a plug from my BMW tool kit. It got me home but was flat the next morning. From the threads I have read, most other people seem to prefer the sticky strings too.


    BTW, I also keep these kits in my trucks. It's usually easier to plug the tire than to put on the spare. I have used these many times and consider them permanent repairs (on a car or truck) and have never had on leak or fail.
    #46
  7. Dothemountain

    Dothemountain n00b

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    I just wanted to say thanks to Klaviator and the others who have helped build this thread. I've only recently become a rider of two wheeled machines and have fallen in love with it. I'm not mechanically defective and it seems I already own most or all the tools I will need to do my own maintenance and repairs once I learn how to do it. Youtube has been very helpful, as well as the Kymco forum and my service manual, but it is still nice to have some of those directions reinforced or explained by other, more experienced riders.

    I see there have not been many posts to this thread in a while and hope there will be more to come at some point? I'd love to see the same type of detailed write up about CVT maintenance.
    #47
  8. klaviator

    klaviator Long timer

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    #48
  9. Dothemountain

    Dothemountain n00b

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    Thanks for the link!
    #49
  10. MskJon

    MskJon n00b

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    I'm new to scooters too. 2010 honda Elites. This is ALL very helpful. Tacoma has his points too. Cars, cycles, lawnmowers etc don't generally go to the junkyard because of seized engines.
    #50
  11. Chindog

    Chindog Old Guy

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    This is very good stuff. Thanks Klaviator for this thread, as well as the CVT thread. It's going to help me a great deal as I start on doing the maintenance tasks on my scooter that have previously been done by the dealership. I'm starting this weekend with the oil change and belt & roller/sliders replacements.
    #51
  12. Yokomo

    Yokomo Gorilla Adventurer

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    This looks like a good thread to put my question:

    I just got a Roketa 50cc scooter and the brake light stays on. Tail light not on. Light bulb is good. I can start it without squeezing the brake lever so that tells me there is a switch somewhere that thinks the brake is pulled.
    The brakes are working properly.
    Where should I look for the problem?
    Thanks!
    #52
  13. tortoise2

    tortoise2 Been here awhile

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    Schematic . . hand lever assembly brake switch resource.
    #53
  14. Yokomo

    Yokomo Gorilla Adventurer

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    Cool, thanks.
    I wonder where the switch is located?

    I looked at the belt and see that it states: Gates Powerlink 669 18.1
    I could also faintly read J9 2206.
    I'm wondering if the belt is smaller than stock? When I took it off and on the front pulley, it was somewhat tight? Should there be some slack?

    The scoot takes off quick for a second, then it bogs down for abit and then very slowly gets going up to speed. Normal?
    #54
  15. Yokomo

    Yokomo Gorilla Adventurer

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    Looking at that scrappydogscooters.com site it looks like the stock belt for my scoot is an 18.3
    My scoot has a 18.1, so I'm assuming its a little smaller. I'm thinking that's probably what's making it feel so boggy when it tries to pick up speed.
    Can anyone confirm this?
    Or know of a better place to ask scoot questions?
    Does Autozone carry any of these belts?
    Thanks!
    #55
  16. vader1701

    vader1701 Adventurer

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    Cool thread, I do as much of the maintenance on my 2008 Yamaha Majesty, it is fun to work on, I have a buddy that doesn't live to far from me and we do his stuff also. I am not the sharpest mechanic on these things but I am willing to learn and the internet sometimes pulls the rest of the info. I suspect I may have to draw a line in the sand on certain repairs but I will cross that bridge when we get there.

    All I can say is take the old college try I say you got nothing to lose, if you find you can't do the repair just button it up and suck it up and find a good dealer to do it.
    #56
  17. klaviator

    klaviator Long timer

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    I have found the best place for brand specific questions is the forum dedicated to that brand. I am on the Kymco and Aprilia forums. For more general questions or just overall knowledge, this forum can't be beat.
    #57
  18. tortoise2

    tortoise2 Been here awhile

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    A worn (narrower) drive belt mostly effects top speed.

    Routine maintenance should include 139QMB valve adjustment, and inflating both front and rear tires to around 30psi. Might also amend old gas by adding a splash of 91% isopropyl alcohol in the tank, and accessing the carb through the seat-tub bottom hatch, twisting up the left-side 90° vent tube, and spraying in a shot of carb cleaner. Inserting a plastic drinking straw "upward extension" may also be helpful.

    If the symptom is engine warm-up bogging, consider installing an enricher switch. 139QMB variator 5 gram rollers (replacement slides) will keep the CVT drive in "low range" longer for better performance on hills and into headwinds, but may decrease top speed by a few miles per hour.
    #58
  19. Yokomo

    Yokomo Gorilla Adventurer

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    New battery, fresh 91 octane gas, raised the needle 2 washers, she fires right up now and idles good. She takes right off but then bogs. I feel like it is the tight belt, so I ordered the 18.3 - we'll see if it fixes it.

    The new battery is not charging up, but maybe that is because I haven't got it out and rode it (because of the bogging). I'll wait and see if I have to track down the issue later...
    #59
  20. Yokomo

    Yokomo Gorilla Adventurer

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    Doing some more reading, I'm wondering if the problem is the choke enrichner. It seems they have an auto choke, then they are suppose to slowly turn off once warmed up. It sounds like these can go bad and remain on choke.

    Is there a way to disable the choke enricher so I can test to see if that is the problem?
    #60