Scored a KLR Tengai, Sitting for years, Rebuild?[!]

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Frey, Apr 11, 2013.

  1. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2012
    Oddometer:
    288
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    Columbia, SC
    Hey y'all so I'm a fairly new rider. About one year now. Been doing all my maintenance myself usually under the shade of a tree if I'm lucky. I posted this http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=835926 about my KLR 2005

    Then when I came into a KLR Tengai for 175 Bucks I knew I had spare parts or at least a test dummy! On with the pictures...

    Here's my bike now packed for camping. Just did the valves, mostly stock except foot pegs, bars, ninja twin piston front brake and cylinder, oversized rotor, acerbis standard sport bike front fender (20 years old), clutch lever, thermo bob, wrist watch on bars to tell the time

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    Here's a sneak peak at fork mounted YZF1000 lights. Fixing the bracket as we lost light, got them painted, this weekend we will do the wiring.

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    Here's the Tengai as it should look

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    Note: I'm going to admit my mistakes as I go!!

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    Had to get it into the car, it had no kick stand! was disassembling it in the front yard in the sun, now I know I could have hurt the forks with them down in the trees like this, I think they're ok. Of course I bent the stock shift lever dragging it into the Subaru Forester ha. When I got home I sat down with my [travel and only] tool kit and a can of liquid wrench and started taking everything apart.

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    Tengai 天涯 means "the end of the sky" in japanese which is pretty f***ing cool!

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    the tengai passenger foot peg bracket doubles as a rear master cylinder guard. not super vulnerable but still sweet deal, KLR should have this! It can be mounted on the KLR which makes the KLR's foot peg mount superfluous. And of course then the Tengai wouldn't have any pegs...

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    dont think the sprocket guard has ever been removed. there are hatched spider eggs and other goodies

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    this is a motorcycle

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    frame supported on wood, engine case not touching the ground. time to try to hammer this b**** out. if you notice something missing from this picture consider it foreshadowing. also notice the fender on the fork. the only stripped bolt! i need vice grips.

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    After doing this a bit with liquid wrench i had no idea what to do. I split the soft wood around the bolt and feared spreading the frame as my father has done many years ago. :dhorse

    Then my father pointed out without the engine mounts in there would be twisting force on the bolt, the engine is a heavy SOB. :deal DUH

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    bought a can of pb blaster. tightened all frame mounts, hit intermittently with rubber mallet. put the nut on flush to the end of the threads giving me a 'nail head' turn it on the side, and one good hit with the sledgehammer and she budges. after that its all good. lots of old grey grease...

    And so what now? Maybe I will split the engine here (in my bedroom room with cardboard on the floor) or I will drive it up to pop. Would be a shame to make the drive with a dud. Maybe I will end up looking for a parallel twin!!
    #1
  2. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

    Joined:
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    Great Story!

    1/2 the fun is wrenching, the other 1/2 is the riding!
    #2
  3. Unstable Rider

    Unstable Rider Moto Fartografist

    Joined:
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    Twin Cities, Minnesota USA
    +1 brother, it's under your skin now.

    No turning back.

    Do-up a rebuild on that motor and stick her back in.

    Make it suffer ! :evil

    Go Tengai!

    Great story. Those bikes on the rare-ish side.
    #3
  4. TengaiJohn

    TengaiJohn Long timer

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    Good deal on the bike, too bad you couldn't restore it. That tank will fetch you $75 or more, the plastics even more, the front fender is hard to find and the instrument cluster alone is worth $150.

    Enjoy the bike!!!
    #4
  5. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2012
    Oddometer:
    288
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    Well my main bike got stolen a week which is a total bummer. It has pushed this project forward and I got a lot more done

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    everything on the shelves was on the floor!

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    here we go

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    we're in for it now!

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    getting the rotor out with the engine out is very hard. my pants are really dirty now holding the engine in my legs. with a long pipe i managed to get it off with a satisfying crack

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    happy that the stocker was bent not brocket, spring was intact too. got the hole drilled for the torsion spring and decided to go into the top end while i was moving forward

    well all was going so well until

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    needless to say i was very unhappy. there was a freaking leaf in there!! i guess the spark plug was out for a long time? a leaf obviously cant fit through the carb. when i checked the spark plug on purchase it was clean on the last few threads, i guess it was a new spark plug

    Question is, so what now? 685/705 kit? what all is included and what all will need to be replaced anyway? could water have slipped past the piston and hurt stuff below too? the oil didnt have water in it and everything on the left side seems fine. the coolant passages are full of gooey white stuff. while im here what can i upgrade as well? this is my first time doing this so any advice would be much appreciated. thanks for reading!
    #5
  6. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    the 685 kit needs a cylinder that is from 1996 or newer.... the walls are thicker. what I would do is clean up the bore as best you can & take it to a machine shop & see if they think they can bore it to an oversize. then you're looking for a new piston. the Kawi pistons were changed in '08 so the rings are slightly different than the older design. if you find an old Kawi piston, it will also need old style rings.... otherwise get a matching pair of new design, or....

    possibly....

    http://www.wossnerpistons.com/products/


    note they have a 102mm slug.... the stock bore is 100mm, so that will clean up a lot of damage if needed

    as for the head. pop out the valves. the seats are the question, the rest is no big deal. if the seats are ok I would have them cut & get new valves.


    any sign of rust on the con rod or crank?
    #6
  7. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    i read about the need of the 1996. but what about the 705? dont they replace the sleeve itself? the bottom end looks better than my 05 with twice the mileage... havent gotten any deeper than the left side off and the top...

    #7
  8. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    i guess with the piston rebuild (looking at the 658 kit) im looking at 400 dollars. If the motor was fine it would be worth rebuilding but at this point I think it'd be better to buy a $1500 klr and use this as a donor bike...

    too bad there is no way to rebuild and improve this old 1990
    #8
  9. KustomizingKid

    KustomizingKid Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2012
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    Minneapolis
    I'd have no qualms about rebuilding that engine... Nothing that can't be easily fixed.
    #9
  10. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    So the issue with the older cylinder and overboring is the water jacket aka coolant passages around the cylinder sleeve. Trying to get a 1996+ cylinder assembly now for the Tengai. Would like to come back with a bit more power to make up for the sad feeling of having my first bike stolen...
    #10
  11. Ramv

    Ramv Been here awhile

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    Castle Rock, Co
    Nothing to add other than I loved my Tengaii which I bought used in the mid 90s.
    #11
  12. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    i think the piston is ok, i cleaned it up with a rag and solvent

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    Is it possible to simply clean up this sleeve and get new rings? I assume not...

    LA Sleeves are 100 bucks off ebay. I can buy new valves and new rings for less than a hundo combined.

    I also have read that if I replace the sleeve I will need to rebore it, if I rebore it will I need to get a new piston for it to marry up?

    At this point I was thinking I should just get the $400 eagle mike 658cc kit with rebore, end up with a lighter piston and be done with it, if all that work needs to be done anyway...

    http://www.eaglemike.com/658-forged-piston-kit-658pk.htm

    Can someone who knows better please shed some light on what here is salvageable?

    Thanks in advance!!
    #12
  13. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    Nuke
    #13
  14. BenFenner

    BenFenner n00b

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    Makes me wonder (if you need transportation on the cheap and with the quickness) if you couldn't get 30k+ miles out of it if you just wire wheeled the head combustion chamber (with valves in place or not) and then wire wheeled the cylinder wall (in diagonal directions only) with a yellow metal wire wheel to clean up the cylinder wall. You could have a relatively well sealed and operational engine for almost free. It might not last 100k miles like that, and it might suffer from some abnormal blow-by, but it could probably get you riding around with the idea that at some point you'd do the engine correctly, or swap something else in, or whatever.

    You'd have wheels though... If that's a priority.
    #14
  15. rally roo

    rally roo the hoonigan formerly known as sevenpointsixtwo

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    Meanwhile, somewhere near Smuggler's Notch, VT...
    I like your style. :evil

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    #15
  16. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    haha in a forester no less!

    #16
  17. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    Columbia, SC
    Ok! Scored a 2002 Cylinder Sleeve, sent it off to eagle mike for a 692cc over bore and all the other minor farkles, front sprocket, jet kit, valve seals, subframe upgrade etc... took my valve head to a local machine shop. waiting on both of these to come back. Got a camera card for my camera so no more phone pics! here's what i've done in the mean time!

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    balancer system

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    high res of cylinder

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    knowledge is power!

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    fork springs and spacers, these are surprisingly small... don't think progressive spring kits work from the klr for the tengai, found some tengai progressive on ebay, 200 dollars with shipping, cant bite that cost right now with everything else but maybe someday or better yet front fork swap! in a year or something...

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    fork seals, old, new, old, new

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    old piston, used needle nose pliers to remove snap rings and a 16mm socket to push out the piston pin

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    I'd say I'm a week away from getting the engine in the frame, I have ordered or have already received everything I have foreseen needing

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    expensive necessary stuff! daystar fork boots, used oem seat cover (still gotta get some foam), uni air filter, tengai brake pads, DID atv 106 link x-chain (was cheaper and heard they are stouter than motorcycle chains), moose racing control guards, pro taper high bend atv bars, clutch and throttle cables, old brake master cylinder and clutch lever stock from my 2005 KLR, YZF1000 headlight and home made brackets, fork brace, 2008 KLR coolant resevoir, iridium spark plug
    #17
  18. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2012
    Oddometer:
    288
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
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    every little thing has to be taken care of... used DON's vermont registration trick to get a registration card and plate for my title-less bike

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    serviced the swing arm link bearings, had to replace one of the seals

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    cleaned all with solvents and a wire brush, where did my 3 hours go?

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    this thing was the b****

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    short focal length isnt the best for some things

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    this bolt had a tough life

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    #18
  19. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    since there is wear on the balancer chain guide, look hard at the balancer weights too.... specifically the springs in the damper system. they are known to wear & break or fall out. screws with the balancing act as well as possibly putting more parts in the engine to float around. the system was changed in 96 to make the weights solid. the solid ones are a direct replacement if you can lay hands on them (only $$$, check Mike or ebay).

    as for progressive springs.... if Ricor makes valves that will fit don't bother with springs, save money for that. you can also play with fork oil weight and quantity to change the ride. raising the oil level helps control fork dive... so does adding 10 pis air pressure
    #19
  20. Frey

    Frey motocrossdresser

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    Columbia, SC
    Thanks for the tips. What are your recommendations for fork oil, pressure and two up riding, specifically in the dirt? I got some oil, planning to go half 10w half 15w... I emailed Ricor, I think the Gen 2 or KLR 650 C valves would work as I believe the Tengai has 41mm forks (the service manual doesn't specify anywhere I've found, I've got calipers at work I reckon I otta measure them)

    I am low on cash and plan to drop another k or 2 into the bike in a year, might hold off on the balancer upgrades, all the sprockets look healthy (teeth) and no springs are missing. i did check for play, there is a small amount in everything but that seems to be the case with almost everything in life. all the bearings look good in the rest of the bike too, only 12k miles on the whole bike... everything that was in oil seems happy, balancer wasn't broken nor was the spring...
    #20