Setting Up a Garmin 76- or 60-series GPS

Discussion in 'Mapping & Navigation' started by SnowMule, Jul 27, 2013.

  1. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    This thread covers how I set up my Garmin GPS 76Cx receiver. I'm doing this as much for you as I am for me - About once a year I master-reset the GPS and go through this setup procedure. And every year I gotta figure out all the little things I did to make it work.
    Since I'm coming from a 60CSx, I know how I use a lot of the settings.
    Some I keep defaults, others are my personal preference, others should have been default from the factory. I'll hilight the important ones in bold red and explain what all the settings do noting any caveats.

    There's a bunch of different ways to use these receivers. What works for me may or may not work for you. Play around with it and adjust things to your preferences. What I have works well for snowmobiling, motorcycling, and in the truck.

    The 60 and 76-series receivers are pretty popular. I've been real happy with my 60. Firmware and operation of the 60 and 76 are identical; only differences are the form factor, antenna, and that the 76 floats in water.
    The main reason I went with the 76 is due to the RAM-mount - with the 60's ram mount, the receiver snaps into the mount with the belt clip on the unit retaining it in the mount. The 76's mount wraps around the entire unit giving it more protection.

    Cx, CSx... what are the letters for?
    C = Color. You want this, especially if you're adding additional mapsets.
    S = Sensors - Barometer and electronic compass.
    x = Expandable memory. These have a MicroSD card slot under the battery door.
    H = High-sensitivity receiver. This isn't used on the 60/76 series, as anything with an "x" has the SiRF chip. You'll see this designation on the eTrex and Rino units.

    I wouldn't recommend any less than a Cx.
    The sensors (CSx) I found to be more trouble than they're worth. Barometer-compensated altimeter is wildly inaccurate unless you calibrate the baro weekly. The compass you can turn on and off by holding the (PAGE) key. I turned it off and never turned it back on - really don't need it with a GPS.

    Table-of-contents for the thread:

    • [post=21969137]Unboxing, top/bottom/connections[/post]
    • [post=21969139]Screen protector, name label, battery installation[/post]
    • [post=21969141]Basic key operation, Power-up, System/Display/Tones/Page Seq setup[/post]
    • [post=21969144]Map and Routing setup[/post]
    • [post=21969148]Time/Units/Heading setup, Welcome Message[/post]
    • [post=21969150]Satellite, Trip Computer, Map page configuration[/post]
    • [post=21969152]Data Card setup and installation[/post]
    • [post=21969155]Tracks, Compass, and Reset page configuration[/post]
    • [post=22068538]Track Log - "Record, Do Not Show" like the 62/78[/post] (New 09 Aug 13)
    • [post=22068580]Mass Storage Mode[/post] (New 09 Aug 13)
    • [post=24314823]Master Reset procedure[/post] (New 03 June 14)
    • [post=25248690]Using TracBack feature[/post] (New 09 Oct 14)
    #1
  2. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    Got my 76Cx for $150 on Ebay.
    [​IMG]

    Dude I bought it from slapped a label right on the product package and dropped it in the mail. Thanks, dude. Next time box it up a little nicer.
    [​IMG]

    Comes with some software (I don't use this), USB cable, wrist strap (for some reason I got two... hurray for ebay, lol), user guide and quick-start manual along with the unit itself.
    [​IMG]

    Top view. Has a solid rubber grip surrounding the entire unit.
    Antenna on the 76 is a <strike>patch antenna - works best with the unit parallel to the earth</strike> [[Correction: The antenna in the 76 is a QFH, same as the 60. There's some bad info on the internet. Crack it open and see for yourself if you don't believe me.]] When it's mounted on a sled or bike (or boat), this is perfect.
    The 60 has a "Quadrifilar Helix antenna", or "QFH". This is a circular-polarized vertical-oriented antenna that works best with the antenna pointing towards the sky. If you do a lot of hiking or use the receiver handheld, this may give you marginally better performance (though I much prefer the buttons-over-screen for handheld use, gives you a better grip on the device).
    [​IMG]

    Bottom view.
    [​IMG]

    Under the connection covers are the data and power ports: Mini-USB on the bottom, and Garmin's 4-pin round between it and the battery housing. (The external antenna connection is above the battery door.)
    [​IMG]
    #2
  3. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    First things first - Protect that screen.
    I buy these WriteRight screen pros in bulk from Amazon. They work well, reasonably tough, and I put them on everything I own with a screen.
    [​IMG]

    Cut to size. The grid on these is nice to get parallel cuts.
    [​IMG]

    Peel the factory guard off. Shouldn't need to clean this if it's new, but if there's some dust on it they'll leave a bubble under the screen pro. A microfiber cloth with some rubbing alcohol works really well.
    [​IMG]

    Align a corner and slowly press down the protector working out any bubbles. Do it right and it should be invisible on the screen. This will save your screen (and has several times with my 60CSx) if you wipe out and scrape it up. The scratches come off with the protector.
    [​IMG]

    Next up is a name sticker on the unit. I stick them under the battery door, hidden and out of the way but if I ever lose it, this could be its ticket home.
    [​IMG]

    Then snap in the batteries. I like these rechargeables; higher capacity than a standard alkaline and they last for a few years cycling them between camera, GPS, and flashlight.
    [​IMG]
    #3
  4. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    So let's fire it up! Power button on the 60 is on top next to the antenna, on the 76 it's on the main keypad on the left. Hold it for a second to turn it on (Hold it to turn it off, or if the unit's on pressing it momentarily will toggle backlight).


    • (MENU) brings up the menu settings for the page you're on.
    • (MENU)(MENU) will always bring you to the main menu. This is where the pages that aren't in the page sequence can be displayed.
    • (ENTER) confirms the selected item. On the 76, holding this for a second will mark a waypoint. The 60 has a dedicated (MARK) button for this.
    • (PAGE) cycles forward through the page sequence. From any menu, pressing this will kick you back to the navigation page you were on.
    • (QUIT) is your escape/back key. This will step backwards through menus to the page sequence, once you're in the page rotation it will cycle backwards from the (PAGE) button.
    • (FIND) takes you to the "Find" menu. The items in here depend on the mapset installed, but you'll always have "Waypoints" and "All POI" in here. You can also access "Recent Finds" by pressing (FIND) from inside the "Find" menu.
    • Holding (FIND) for a second then (ENTER) at the popup activates "Man OverBoard" - This feature drops a waypoint at your current location and navigates to it. The 76 has "MOB" printed over this button, but it functions the same way on the 60. I use this snowmobiling when we're looking for someone separated from the group.
    • (ZOOM+) and (ZOOM-) do just that on the map page. Their other function is "Page+" and "Page-" in any situation where the D-pad is used to select an item. You'll see me use this a lot in the following screen animations, it makes ripping through long menus a lot easier.


    • Power-Up and Satellite Acquisition
    Give it a minute or two to find the satellite constellation and figure out where it is in the world. Depending on where you are and what time it is, it may switch to a darker "night" color scheme. If you're indoors, it may help to set the receiver by a window or otherwise give it a clear view of the sky.

    [​IMG]

    • System Setup
    From the satellite screen... press (MENU)(MENU), then key down to "Setup", (ENTER), then (ENTER) on "System".
    "GPS" lets you select between "normal", "battery saver", "GPS Off", and "Demo Mode". Normal is what you want to use. Battery Saver samples every 10 seconds instead of every 1, so you lose a lot of position accuracy with this.
    "WAAS/EGNOS" is a differential GPS signal. It can improve accuracy a small amount, but straight-up GPS is fine for my uses.
    Change "Battery Type" to match the batteries in your GPS. I use NiMH as mentioned earlier, so switch to NiMH.
    "External Power Lost" toggles what the receiver does when external power is removed. Switch this to "Stay On". This is important on a snowmobile where every time the sled is shut off, the external power is removed. The newer 62- and 78-series receivers DO NOT have this feature!!
    Leave prox alarms on, doesn't do anything unless you activate a proximity alarm. I don't use this at all.
    Quit back to the setup menu.

    [​IMG]

    • Display Setup
    "Display Mode" picks between day, night, or auto. Auto switches between day and night based on the sunrise/sunset time. I prefer one color scheme all the time, so mine's set to "Daytime".
    "Daytime color scheme" lets you select from a list for "day". Nighttime is the same way. Pick whatever you like. If your display mode isn't "auto", the opposite of what you have selected has no effect.
    Backlight timeout... pick what you want. Any keypress will turn it back on. Most of the time my GPS is externally powered, so I'm not concerned about battery savings. You can always turn it on or off by pressing the power button momentarily.
    Likewise, backlight level can be adjusted from any screen by pressing the power button and using the up/down d-pad to change brightness.

    [​IMG]

    • Tones Setup
    This is largely up to you.
    "Message Beep" is a tone you'll hear anytime there's a popup (like when external power is removed, you go off-route, track log fills, or a system error occurs).
    "Key Beep" happens every time you press a button. Annoying for those around you.
    "Power Beep" is what you hear on powerup and shutdown. This is another setting that was removed from the 62/78 units.
    "Turn Warning Early" is an early warning when you're navigating to a point with turn-by-turn navigation enabled. You'll need an additional mapset to use this.
    "Turn Warning Final" is the block-before, You're-turning-at-the-next-intersection alert.
    Prox alarm tones if you use those.
    "Mute" will silence all noises. Remember where this setting is and that its available. Most of the time I leave this off.

    [​IMG]

    • Page Sequence Setup
    Again, up to you and how you use the receiver.
    I like having "Tracks" in the page sequence to turn on and off track logging.
    I also like having the "Calendar" page in the sequence for the sunrise/sunset and moon phase.
    Since you can access the Main Menu from anywhere by pressing (MENU) twice, I see no reason to have it in the page sequence.
    "Turn Preview" and "Active Route" are only displayed in the page rotation when the unit is navigating a route.
    The "S" models will have an "Elevation" page that gives you an altitude profile. GPS elevation is still stored in the track log and can be displayed on the trip computer page, I'm not sure why this page option was left out in the Cx models.

    [​IMG]
    #4
  5. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    • Map Setup
    This is a big one. This menu can also be accessed by selecting "Setup Map" from the menu on the Map page.
    The 6 icons along the top are map setup sections. Left/Right D-pad buttons will scroll between these sections, Up/Down between items in the section.

    Map Setup - General: Orientation, auto-zoom, and detail are up to you. Whatever you like to see on the map.
    Auto-zoom zooms in/out for a "best-fit" as you're navigating a route. Some people find it annoying, I think it works pretty well.
    Turn "Lock On Road" off. If you're using a mapset that has detailed streets in it (like CityNavigator or Roads&Rec), this will lock your position to the road or trail in the mapset. This feature is fine for cars/trucks, but for snowmobiles and offroad motorcycles it snaps your tracks to the road rather than your actual position. If you're on the boundary between the road and "off-road" as determined by the receiver, your tracks will be all over the place.

    Map Setup - Tracks: Leave "Saved Tracks" and "Track Log" max-zooms to "Auto". This does well. This will let you select a level at which the tracks disappear once you zoom out past that level.
    The 62/78 has a "new" feature that allows you to "Record, Do Not Show" tracks on the map. Setting "Track Log" to "Off" here accomplishes the same thing.
    Change the "Track Points" to 10000. This should be the default. With the 3000-point number in there, the track points older than 3000 points disappear off the map. This doesn't affect storage unless you're past the 100% track log I'll show you later. But there's no reason to not show as many as possible on here. You could set this to a really low number and only see a short "tail" of where you've been.
    I prefer a course pointer over a bearing pointer. Personal navigation preference.

    Map Setup - Points: Again, displays the maximum zoom at which the points are displayed on the map. "Auto" works just fine here.

    Map Setup - Text: How good are your eyes? All personal preference. Obviously bigger text takes up more of the screen.

    Map Setup - Information: This lets you check or un-check map tiles within a mapset. This also tells you what mapset is loaded and active - in this screen animation it's the "January 2001 basemap" that comes with the unit. There's really no reason to hide any of these tiles unless you're building specialized mapsets, in which case you probably have a good idea of what they all mean anyways.

    Map Setup - Marine: Marine points settings. "Marine Colors" changes the color of water on the map from blue to white. The rest of the settings do nothing without Garmin's BlueChart maps installed.

    [​IMG]

    • Routing Setup
    Routing setup affects how the unit plots routes when you select a waypoint or POI to navigate to.
    Guidance method: "Off Road" gives you a distance-and-heading line to head towards. "Follow Road" uses data in the mapset to build turn-by-turn directions. "Prompted" lets you select which one you want when you "Go To" a point.
    "Follow Road Method" lets you pick between shorter, faster, or prompted. I've found "Faster" gives you a similar route to what Google Maps gives you, so I leave this on.
    "Next Turn Popup" briefly switches to the "Turn Preview" page after playing the "Turn Warning" tone. This is another feature removed from the 62/78. I like this on, in combination with the obnoxious turn-warning tones, since I can hear the tone on the bike and glance down to see where the next turn is.

    "Follow Road Options" gives you some configuration for the "follow road" guidance method.
    Change "Off-Route Calculation" to "Prompted". Leaving this on "Automatic" will recalculate the route every time you make a wrong turn. Prompted throws an "Off route! Recalculate?" popup with yes/no options instead. That popup times out after a few seconds, and route guidance will continue once you pick up on the route again.
    I've found "Truck" is a better routing option and calculates more like Google Maps.
    Check any "Avoids" you want to skip - Just remember that the GPS has no problems routing you 100 miles out of the way to avoid a 50¢ toll or 20 feet of unpaved road.

    [​IMG]
    #5
  6. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    • Time Setup
    Up to you, how you prefer your time format.
    Once nice feature the 62/78 has is an automatic time zone calculation. The 60/76 requires you to switch manually. Not a big deal IMO unless you're travelling between multiple time zones regularly.
    Set DST as needed. "Auto" works fine.

    [​IMG]

    • Units Setup
    Position Format is something that can lead to a lot of confusion.
    The most popular ones are:

    • hddd.ddddd - Decimal Degrees
    • hddd°mm.mmm' - Decimal Minutes
    • hddd°mm'ss.s" - DMS, Degrees-Minutes-Seconds.

    Recognize these formats and know how to switch between them!! If I'm copying a lat/long, I'll write it down as its given to me and set the position format to match the format it's given. This saves from hand-calculating between the two and eliminates human errors in doing so.
    Most of the time you can set it to whatever format you like. Amateur radio operators will give their "map grid" in Maidenhead format - that option is in this list.
    Map Datum: Most maps are WGS84. Match the datum to the map you're using, if you're using the GPS along with a paper map. Leave this at WGS84 unless you know what you're doing.
    Distance/Speed if you want to toggle to metric or nautical units. Know its there.
    Depth and Temperature only matter if you've got external sensors or marine maps (Garmin's BlueChart) installed.

    [​IMG]

    • Heading Setup
    All personal preference on this page.
    "Display": Cardinal Letters is the N, NW, SE directions. Degrees is easier to use with a compass and gives you a more accurate direction. I'd rather nav with a degree heading.
    "North Reference" moves you between true and magnetic north (grid and user are for more advanced users). Magnetic will match up with a compass, magvar indicates the difference between true and mag north. Paper maps will show this too, and they should match each other.

    [​IMG]

    • Welcome Message Setup
    Another important step in setting up your GPS is a "Welcome Message". This is a freeform text field that's displayed when the unit is booting up.
    Put your name/email/phone contact info into the Welcome Message. Again, this could be its ticket home should you ever lose it.

    [​IMG]

    That's it for the Setup of the GPS!
    #6
  7. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    Next is configuring the display of all the pages.
    &#8226; Satellite Page
    North Up vs. Track Up - Positions the satellite constellation with North to the top (track heading is the eyeball on the horizon) or with the track to the top. Advantage to "Track Up" is this page also functions as a compass.
    Multicolor vs. Single Color is a personal preference to how the satellites are displayed.

    If you have WAAS/EGNOS enabled, you'll see a "D" in the bottom of the signal strength bar indicating that satellite has a differential adjustment on it.

    [​IMG]

    &#8226; Trip Computer Page
    Default display is "Small Numbers". In the menu choose "Change Data Fields" to configure which indicators are displayed where in the page. Contents and location are up to you. My previous GPS was a GPS12, I configure this page similar to its display.

    [​IMG]

    Other display mode is a "Big Numbers" - I like this on the snowmobile and moto. Gives you three humongous indicators that are easy to read. Toggle between the two by choosing "Big Numbers" or "Small Numbers" in the menu.
    Setup is the same way.
    [​IMG]

    &#8226; Map Page
    I like to see distance and speed on here. How many and what is entirely up to you.
    Didn't picture "Guidance Text" or "Declutter" in here, but those are two other options. "Guidance Text" puts a line on the screen for what road you're on, or what road to turn on when it's navigating a route. I leave this "Show when Navigating". Turning Declutter on will reduce some of the points on the map screen making it easy to read. You'll see this indicated by a "Declutter" in the lower left corner of the map under the scale.

    [​IMG]
    #7
  8. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    At this point, let's set up the data card. Even if you don't have an additional mapset to install, you should have a data card installed in the unit to save tracks to (more on that later).

    The receivers use USB 1.1 spec for mass storage - this is incredibly slow. In the unlikely event that you don't have a card reader, go buy one. Most MicroSD cards come with a full-size adapter, and a lot of computers have an SD card reader built in. This will greatly speed up data transfer between the computer and the card.

    Format the data card as FAT32. Anytime I'm setting up a data card for a new device (camera, GPS, phone) I like to format it to wipe away anything that was on there previously. Give the card an intelligent name.

    Create an OWNER.TXT file. Put your name/phone/email in here. Save it on the root directory of the card. The GPS is going to ignore this file.
    [​IMG]

    Next, install the mapset. There's a dozen different ways to do this, and hundreds of maps to choose from. Pick whatever you want. I like CityNavigator on everything but the snowmobile, where I switch to topo maps.
    [​IMG]

    An interesting note... The 60/76 units read the map out of /Garmin/GMAPSUPP.IMG. Any other files on the card are ignored (with the exception of custom POI files). If you have multiple maps to install, install a map then rename it, repeating that process for all your other maps. Once you're done installing maps, change the name of the one you want to use back to GMAPSUPP.IMG.
    This is how I keep CityNav and Topo maps for the entire US on the card, and stay under the 2025 map tile limit.

    What's a tile limit? In addition to the file size limit of the data card, you've got a tile limit in the receiver.
    When you're selecting areas on a map to install, you're selecting tiles.
    Older receivers have a 100-tile limit.
    The 60/76 has a 2025 tile limit.
    The newer 62/78 has a 4000 tile limit.
    Some maps (like topo maps) have very small tiles, so you hit the tile limit long before you hit the file size limit. Keep this in mind as you're loading maps - though MapInstall, MapSource, and BaseCamp all warn you about this.

    Eject the card from the computer, and install it into the GPS.
    The 60 is under the battery door:
    [​IMG]

    The 76 has a slot that installs towards the 4-pin round. Make sure you power the unit down before you install or remove the data card! This isn't an issue for the units that require battery removal to access the card slot.
    I'm using a SanDisk 16GB and it seems to be working just fine. I had a 4GB in my 60 and it was enough for all the maps and plenty of tracks and other data.
    [​IMG]

    Slide it in till its fully seated. On the 60, close and latch the metal card door.
    [​IMG]

    Power up the unit with the maps and memory card installed. The first time it boots up with a new mapset it scans and indexes it - Once it does this you won't see the indexing progress bar again. Copyrights and map information are displayed briefly.

    [​IMG]

    To verify the maps installed, (PAGE) to the map page and start zooming in. Watch in the lower left - "basemap" is displayed when the map displayed is the internal base map. When you zoom past that detail level, it'll draw the higher-detail maps and display "mapsource" in the corner.
    This mapset is CityNavigator 2013.40.
    [​IMG]
    #8
  9. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    &#8226; Tracks Page
    Tracking is turned on by default. Fine, but you don't want it on all the time. Right on the D-pad over to "Off", then (ENTER) to turn tracking off. The % gauge is how much of the 10,000 point log you have filled.
    Clear the track log, "yes" to confirm. All that's in there right now is you sitting on the couch playing with the GPS. Turn it on when you go riding to capture that position data.

    Next, go into the "Setup" screen.
    "Wrap When Full" will push out the oldest track points in favor of the newest track points if you fill it (FIFO). With "Log tracks to data card" on (keep reading), this doesn't matter. Unchecking this stops logging once the log is full, and you'll see an alert when this happens.

    "Record Method" and "Interval" affect how often the track points are dropped. "Auto" record method drops points in turns, but if you're on a long straightaway at an even speed (cruise control on a highway) it won't capture as often. This keeps the track log relevant and minimizes worthless points. The other options are time or distance.
    "Interval" is how often the points are dropped. More often gives you better resolution in the track log at the expense of filling the log faster.

    Color... Why "Transparent" is the default confuses me.
    Change the track log color to something other than transparent. "Transparent" is just a small dotted line, where any other color is much easier to see on the map.

    Now go into "Data Card Setup".
    If the data card you installed isn't formatted or installed, the options here will be grayed out. Put a properly-formatted data card in before you continue.
    If you do one thing in this entire guide, make this the thing you do. Turn "Log Track to Data Card" on. This should be on by default with these receivers IMO.
    From this screen, if you press (MENU) and go to "Card Info", you can see how much of the memory card is full. Here I've got CityNav loaded (red), Topo maps and some other data on the card (green), and a few years worth of tracks (blue) on the card. I said earlier I used a 4GB MicroSD card with my 60, and still had room to spare. Nothing to configure in this screen, but it's nice to know its there.
    From here you can (QUIT) or (PAGE) back to the Tracks page.

    [​IMG]

    &#8226; Compass Page
    Not much to set up here, I use this screen occasionally when navigating (time to next and ETA at dest). Personal preference.

    [​IMG]

    &#8226; Reset configuration
    Last thing is the "Reset". Do this after you've downloaded all the data to the computer after a ride.
    From the "Trip Computer" page, (MENU) to "Reset". Check the items you want cleared.
    Trip data, odometer, and max speed can only be cleared through this page (as well as elevation data on the Sensor-equipped models).
    Track log, saved tracks, waypoints, and routes can be deleted from their respective pages.
    Once you set these, the unit retains the checked and unchecked items in memory.

    [​IMG]

    That's all I have for now!
    Questions are welcome, and eventually I'll add a post for the almanac and master reset procedures, diagnostic page, and self-test procedure.
    #9
  10. 9Dave

    9Dave Bazinga!

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    Great info. Thanks for sharing.
    #10
  11. NorthernTraveler

    NorthernTraveler Long time Adventurer

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    Some people have had problems loosing everything on their data cards in the 60/76x series units.

    I've wiped out 2 no-name data cards in the last year - mapsets, tracklogs, etc. The cards couldn't be read in a computer at all.

    SanDisk specifically talks about their data cards being shock/vibration/cold resistant. You might want to spend the few extra bucks for the piece of mind.
    #11
  12. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    >2013
    >big hard drives and laptop/portable computers are quite inexpensive
    >not backing up your data on a semi-regular basis
    laughinggirls.jpg

    Haven't heard about sandisk being shock/vib-resistant.
    But you're right, the name-brand cards do seem to perform better than the no-name cheapies.

    [​IMG]
    #12
  13. maquette

    maquette Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Oriental, NC
    Thank you for the effort! I learned several new (to me) things for my 60CSx.
    #13
  14. _cy_

    _cy_ Long timer

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    thanks .. very timely for me ..setting up 60csx
    #14
  15. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

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    Curious, like what?
    #15
  16. WIthumper

    WIthumper The 610 guy

    Joined:
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    Milton, WI
    Great write-up! Need to recheck my settings...
    #16
  17. ramjet

    ramjet Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2004
    Oddometer:
    2,352
    Location:
    Super F'd Up N. California
    Great refresher. I tend to forget how to use the GPS only using it for long rides infrequently.

    How about some info on appending .gpx files with tracks to existing files?
    #17
  18. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

    Joined:
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    Some further clarification on the "new" feature with the 78 - "Record, Do Not Show".
    In the 78, (MENU)(MENU), Setup menu, Tracks, then "Track Log" gives you three options. "Do Not Record" is the same as "Off" on the 60/76.
    [​IMG]

    "Record, Show On Map" and "Record, Do Not Show" can be configured on the 60/76 in the Map Setup page.
    Turning "Track Log" to "Off" == "Record, Do Not Show" when track logging is "On" in the tracks page.
    Alternatively, and this may be a better way to do it ... set the "Track Points" to a really small number like 10, to show a short tail of where you've been. This way you know it's on and logging, but the track log doesn't clutter up the screen. Also gives you a good idea of your heading.
    [​IMG]

    Hope that clears things up.
    #18
  19. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

    Joined:
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    &#8226; Mass Storage Mode
    This mode effectively turns your GPS into an expensive MicroSD card reader.

    With the unit plugged into a computer through an A-MiniB USB cable...
    (MENU)(MENU), "Setup", "Interface", and at the bottom is the "Mass Storage Mode" button.

    With the GPS in this mode you can access the data on the card as if it were plugged into a card reader on your computer. Mounts as a drive letter in windows or a volume on the desktop on Mac. Move tracks around, install maps, whatever. Until you unmount the unit (Right-click, "Eject" in windows, or drag the volume into the trash/eject icon in the dock on Mac), reboot it manually holding the (POWER) key, or unplug the USB cable, it will stay in this mode and will not track GPS satellites or be usable as a Garmin Spanner device. I can't even grab a screenshot with the device in MSM. It's got a cute picture of the receiver plugged into a tower PC.

    If you're moving large amounts of data (like installing maps), I HIGHLY recommend a card reader - The GPS functions at USB 1.1 speeds - very slow. What takes hours through the GPS will take minutes through a card reader. Fair warning.

    [​IMG]
    #19
  20. SnowMule

    SnowMule [angry moth noises]

    Joined:
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    Like what exactly?

    A GPX file is XML at its core - it's a text file that follows some rules. If you're familiar with HTML, XML isn't much different.
    Open a copy of an existing GPX file in a text editor and play around with it.
    (I like TextWrangler on the Mac, Notepad++ on Win - Both offer "folding up" sections and syntax hilighting)

    You'll have a schema up top that looks something like this, yours may vary depending on what software you use:
    (Note that I've replaced < with &#8804; and > with &#8805; in the following examples so it doesn't parse as HTML...)
    Code:
    &#8804;?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1" standalone="yes"?&#8805;
    &#8804;gpx
        xmlns="http://www.topografix.com/GPX/1/1" version="1.1"
        xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance"
        xmlns:gpxdata="http://www.cluetrust.com/XML/GPXDATA/1/0"
        xsi:schemaLocation="http://www.topografix.com/GPX/1/1
                          http://www.topografix.com/GPX/1/1/gpx.xsd
                          http://www.cluetrust.com/XML/GPXDATA/1/0
                          http://www.cluetrust.com/Schemas/gpxdata10.xsd"
    &#8805;<gpx
    <gpx
    
    Below that you'll have some waypoints:
    (Note that comments are encapsulated around &#8804;!-- --&#8805; tags, just like HTML)
    Code:
    &#8804;!-- ## Parking Areas --&#8805;
    &#8804;wpt lat="40.389079995" lon="-106.635330060"&#8805;
        &#8804;name&#8805;Dumont Lot&#8804;/name&#8805;
        &#8804;cmt&#8805;Upper lot, Hwy40&#8804;/cmt&#8805;
        &#8804;sym&#8805;Car&#8804;/sym&#8805;
    &#8804;/wpt&#8805;
    &#8804;wpt lat="40.387669334" lon="-106.618745322"&#8805;
        &#8804;name&#8805;Muddy Creek&#8804;/name&#8805;
        &#8804;cmt&#8805;MC lot&#8804;/cmt&#8805;
        &#8804;sym&#8805;Car&#8804;/sym&#8805;
    &#8804;/wpt&#8805;
    WPT and NAME tags are pretty much required, SYM depends on the GPS. ELE for elevation is another common one, created when you save a point on the GPS. Not required though.

    Tracks are in the TRK tags:
    Code:
    &#8804;trk&#8805;
    &#8804;name&#8805;To MFerArea&#8804;/name&#8805;
    &#8804;trkseg&#8805;
    &#8804;trkpt lat="40.440104083" lon="-106.643632219"&#8805;&#8804;/trkpt&#8805;
    &#8804;trkpt lat="40.440389474" lon="-106.644032647"&#8805;&#8804;/trkpt&#8805;
    .......
    &#8804;trkpt lat="40.441609959" lon="-106.646455420"&#8805;&#8804;/trkpt&#8805;
    &#8804;trkpt lat="40.441361221" lon="-106.646500499"&#8805;&#8804;/trkpt&#8805;
    &#8804;/trkseg&#8805;
    &#8804;/trk&#8805;
    This is just an array of lat/long (and potentially ELE) points. Tracks will also have a time.
    Active Log is segmented when you power-cycle the receiver or turn tracking off then back on, but on the GPS and on Google Earth, the last point of one segment and the first point in the next segment are connected. Making a new TRK out of the two segments will separate them.

    Routes cont'd....
    </gpx
    </gpx
    <gpx
    <gpx
    </gpx
    </gpx
    #20