Severely Damaged Engine Case(Threads)

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by WonTian, May 10, 2013.

  1. WonTian

    WonTian Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
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    19
    So my inspection plug was very badly sized so I first cut a slit in it with an angle grinding and hammered at with a screw driver for a hour with no luck. Pieces of the plug were cracking and breaking off. So I broke out the drill and started drilling some holes thinking it would relieve some of the pressure, it didn't work. I stared hammering the holes with the screw driver again until enough of the plug had broken off to actually unscrew the plug. This is where I notice I messed up...bad. What are my options? I'm thinking if I just put a new plug in with RTV in the massive pits and it might be okay. or do I need a new side case?

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. rpeterk

    rpeterk Been here awhile

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    Judging by the looks of the mess you need to take the side cover off anyway to be able to adequately clean. Depending on the number of threads that are left you might be able to have the the surface welded enough to get a sealing area. You wont have threads there as that would be very time consuming to restore. Unless this is some vintage with parts that are very hard to get or its very expensive the best would be to replace it. If you have no way to get a new one I could make that one look like new but it is allot of work and time consuming. Where are you located? What kind of bike? A better pic of the whole area would also help.

    bob
    609-851-2810
    #2
  3. 74C5

    74C5 Long timer

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    Not sure what I'm looking at. If the female threads are fooked, pull the cover and either replace it or, see if a Devcon titanium putty patch will fix them. Put wax or teflon tape on the new plug and insert then apply the devcon. That will allow later removal.
    #3
  4. WonTian

    WonTian Adventurer

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    I'm in North California
    Its a 01 DRZ400S, nothing special. I just don't to shell out the bucks for another engine case

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #4
  5. WonTian

    WonTian Adventurer

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    Where can I find this Devcon? I've never heard of it before

    I actually am trying to get the side cover off but the starter gear screws are stuck...
    #5
  6. two40two

    two40two ....

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    Is this a DR or KLR? Replace it- looks very eph'd. In addition to the metal fragments everywhere and inside i imagine- it looks like there is a hefty crack/fracture right before the first thread. Hammers are my favorite tool but they can wreak havoc on cast alloy pieces. Peace of mind is cheap when the alternative is sitting on the roadside with a defunct machine.
    #6
  7. speedracertdi

    speedracertdi Been here awhile

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    Wow! Somebody needs to take your tools away.
    #7
  8. WonTian

    WonTian Adventurer

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    I know, right??

    How would you have dealt with the problem?
    #8
  9. WonTian

    WonTian Adventurer

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    This is my 01 DRZ400S I just picked out a few weeks ago. The side cases are actually magnesium. The previous owner dropped in a deep mud puddle, so he was selling it cheap. This also probably explains why are all the bolts on this bike are sized.

    My KLR on the other hand has been a rock these past years
    #9
  10. haggeo

    haggeo Been here awhile

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    i had the same problem with my DR350 and this is what i did.

    laid it on it's side
    [​IMG]

    drilled 4 holes in (not through) the cap then used a castle nut socket to turn the wrench while standing on the wrench/socket/cap with my motocross boots on.
    [​IMG]

    no damage to the threads or shavings in the hole.
    [​IMG]

    i put the new cap in with anti seize compound and did not tighten the piss out of it like the PO did.
    #10
  11. two40two

    two40two ....

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    Best of luck with this. Do you have a quality extendable small magnet? Have you pulled the side cover off yet? I'm worried about debris in the crank case. A magnet may at least get the bolt fragments out of the engine, I don't know how much Fe is in the side cover. I'd plan on a few very short interval oil/filter changes after this.
    #11
  12. WonTian

    WonTian Adventurer

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    I wish I had seen this before I assaulted my DRZ with a power drill..
    #12
  13. WonTian

    WonTian Adventurer

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    Thanks. I'm still trying to get the side cover off, the starter gear cover screws are sized. I the bike on the lift right now tilted to the right so the shaving fall on the flywheel instead of down into the crank case. Thanks for the tip
    #13
  14. WonTian

    WonTian Adventurer

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    Thanks for the input!
    My first attack was WD40 overnight, heat gun, and 1/2 breaker-bar with a allen head, and it totally stripped it clean out. I think the plug is a soft aluminum

    I might just start peeking around on ebay if I can't get this sorted out.

    I'm going out on my KLR to pick up an impact driver right now, more updates later tonight
    #14
  15. haggeo

    haggeo Been here awhile

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    i used PBblaster (heat gun too) and could swear (in my case) it didn't get past the o ring down to the threads on the cap. the first attempts were with a pin spanner but it was a harbor freight cheapie that bent right away but it gave me the castle nut socket idea. laying the bike down is also key to getting enough pressure on the cap with my foot, otherwise the pins just spin off of the holes.
    #15
  16. FlySniper

    FlySniper Bleh...

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    Rode the bike until it was completely to temp, broke the bolt loose while the engine was still hot. Work on the bike after things cool down. No problems.
    #16
  17. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    I would try a new inspection plug in the old cover first. clean everything of course. if there any threads that are boogered, get after them with a little file or a Dremel so the new plug can screw on without binding up, better to remove more thread than get crossed up or bound tight. then RTV silicone on the gouge & the threads too. mebby the Ultra Black... that seems to be the best oil sealer. It'll be fine. the epoxy would present some other problems.... like how to keep from gluing the plug to the case. it can be done with mold release, but I don't think you need the extra strength anyway, only need to keep it from leaking. the plug ain't gonna fall out. I RTV'd the bottom of a pop can over a hole like that once... lasted months. was still working when peeled off for a proper fix
    #17
  18. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    and btw.... the covers are magnesium I think. they are also thin and easy to punch a hole in. the stock shift lever has been known to spear the case and break it. there is an aftermarket steel lever with a plate welded on the side so it isn't as sharp a contact when you crash on that side... don't remember who made it. the stock lever is alloy. I built a thin steel plate on a bracket for mine. it attached to the pivot for the toe lever thing there at the end
    #18
  19. 3DChief

    3DChief "Moto therapist"

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    Ummmmm, in your case, I'd recommend a file and not a Dremel!:deal Next time, before resorting to destructive methods, get on here and ask the question. This particular problem has been covered numerous times in quite a few threads. I applaud you trying to do your own work, but have an idea of what you are doing and do the research first. Or take it to a shop!
    #19
  20. WonTian

    WonTian Adventurer

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    Yes, it was the correct size. I have a full tool cabinet of only metric tools
    #20