Sh1bby's R65 Cafe Build

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by sh1bby69, May 27, 2012.

  1. sh1bby69

    sh1bby69 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    534
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Hey everyone I just wanted to start a build thread on my R65. This will be my very first build thread and really my very first build. I just picked up Ben Carufel's '79 R65 and this is my first Airhead. You guys have been great answering my questions. My build won't be super crazy. I plan to add a cafe seat, new paint, and possibly custom housing for my gauges. I would love to tear it all down and powder coat the frame and wheels, but I have to put some cash aside and want to enjoy the bike for a bit. I also plan to work on the front brake. I'm not use to grabbing a handful. Any recommendations?

    Here are the images of the bike:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I've started working on fabricating the seat:
    [​IMG]

    I hope to fiberglass today or tomorrow. Will post updates as they come.

    Come Tuesday I plan to ride down to my local dealership and pick up an oil pan gasket and hopes my service manual comes in the mail.

    Thanks for looking guys!
    #1
  2. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,798
    Location:
    Nelson New Zealand
    Good stuff bro. Keep us posted. I'm doing the same.
    #2
  3. sh1bby69

    sh1bby69 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    534
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Thanks!

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
    #3
  4. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2002
    Oddometer:
    8,290
    Location:
    Jackson's Bottom Oregon
    Nice looking bike just the way it came! I'd have left the seat and worked towards installing a second disc and left it at that.

    Of course I'm not that wild about the look of the instrument housing. Some individual pods would look much better. But I've never done anything to change them, so can't offer any advice there.
    #4
  5. sh1bby69

    sh1bby69 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    534
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    I was thinking about getting individual gauges. Not sure how to go about it though. As for the seat, I plan to leave the mounts so down the line I can through the stock one on.

    When I bought the bike, it came with another caliper along with a disc. I know I have to get longer bolts to mount it but is there anything else I need to know about adding a second front break? I'd like to braided steel lines.
    #5
  6. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,304
    Location:
    NOR CAL
    I agree. All that bike needs is a second brake and a little attention to detail.

    Wish it was mine!:wink:
    #6
  7. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2002
    Oddometer:
    8,290
    Location:
    Jackson's Bottom Oregon
    I've used stainless allens sourced from the hardware store to mount the dual calipers. Nothing too special about them.

    Since you've got the disc and caliper, just mount them up. The problem will be the brake line. No need to modify or change the caliper. In your position, I'd add a cross-over from the current caliper to the new one. If you're getting new lines made, install a T at the junction of the metal line to the right side, and run a short line to the left caliper.

    For some reason yours has the caliper on the left side - it seems I've always seen the single caliper on the right side. No biggie.

    If your master cylinder is a 13mm it's actually the best size for the dual discs, so don't get the idea it's important to get the larger size that came with dual disc systems.
    #7
  8. WRC51

    WRC51 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    430
    Location:
    Hydesville, Calif
    That is a real nice looking bike., nice find. There is a 1970 R-60/5 for sale in our local Craglist (Humboldt County), that has my mind racing, no where as clean as yours. I have been wanting to dive headlong into the Airhead part of motos, maybe this would be a good start. Total new guy question, Iam assuming that the R-60 means it is a 600cc?? Is there a website or booklet that would explain the differences between Models and engine types from say the early 1970s. Thanks
    #8
  9. sh1bby69

    sh1bby69 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    534
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Much thanks! I was thinking about just going to my local hardware store to grab some. As for the brake line, can you show what you mean by the crossover. So instead of having it from a split the line would come directly from the primary caliper?

    Im not sure if I can use this as a split but I found what looks to be a split in the brake lines. Check the image below
    [​IMG]

    Another question is to determine the size of the Master Cylinder size. I couldn't find any markings besides Min and Max.

    @WRC51 I've always Google a bike to find the specs on them. The website that I usually refer to from Google is bikez.com.
    Heres some info on the R60/5: http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/bmw_r_60-5_1970.php
    #9
  10. melville

    melville Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,520
    Location:
    Behind the Redwood Curtain
    That bike was for sale a year ago for $1000 more. I think I saw the same bike at Mark's shop since then (how many white/white R60s are there?) so he may have some insight. Nice patina IIRC, no need to mess with it. If I were smart enough to buy a running bike.........

    Yes, R60 would be 600cc.
    #10
  11. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,116
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay area
    I wouldn't run stainless caliper bolts for safety. I wouldn't run titanium there either! I think the BMW bolts are about the best for that job. I would do away with the hard line and run stainless braided down to the calipers. Why have more fittings that you need? All you need is four fittings, not six or eight. I would run a double banjo bolt at either the MC or one of the calipers. I think they are easier to bleed running two lines all the way down. That's how I set up my R65. A brake line over the fender is a giant air trap.
    #11
  12. WRC51

    WRC51 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    430
    Location:
    Hydesville, Calif
    Thanks melville, I have also been watching your build-up very nice.
    #12
  13. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,304
    Location:
    NOR CAL
    While I agree with Wirespokes 95% of the time, when I remodeled my bike I used a lot of SS fasteners but not on the calipers or disks. I replaced those nuts and bolts with factory parts.

    Somehow, it lets me sleep better at night! :wink:
    #13
  14. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2002
    Oddometer:
    8,290
    Location:
    Jackson's Bottom Oregon
    The stainless bolts holding the calipers are plenty sufficient. Especially stainless allens. And there are different grades of stainless. The forces on those bolts aren't so much in a length-wise direction, more at right angles. Mine never wore grooves in them from the forces. As a matter of fact, since the nuts are nylocs, I don't even torque them down with much force. Can't say how much since I do it by feel. They're large enough I can't imagine them shearing off! That would take a LOT of force!

    As for the brake line - I agree - I don't like the idea of running the second line from the first caliper. But I would run it from the metal line, over the fender and to the other caliper.

    In your case, having the splitter at the steering head, I'd run it from there, which is the way the factory did it.
    #14
  15. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,116
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay area
    I still don't understand. Why run a splitter like the factory did? Two more line fittings than need be (three lines instead of two) and a place to mount the splitter. BMW's splitter is a small boat anchor too. I like to keep things simple when I can. In this case it will cost you less money too!

    What Brembo's need nuts on the back side? Stainless nuts? Around all that brake dust? Stainless on stainless is a sure way to bugger threads in my experience. IMO, stainless is for boats!
    #15
  16. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2002
    Oddometer:
    8,290
    Location:
    Jackson's Bottom Oregon
    If he runs a new line from the splitter, he'll need to buy only one line. It's simple and it works, and is probably the cheapest route. If he's going to replace the current line (looks like the original rubber brake line) then it's either run one line and a second to the other caliper, or two lines from up above - either the splitter or the master cylinder.

    The system I liked was a friend's newer guzzi. The single line ran down to the right caliper, but somewhere above the fender was a T fitting and from there a line ran to the left caliper. It was simple and elegant.

    Stainless bolts with nuts for the brembos? :huh

    I am currently running stainless bolts to retain the brembos on the LS, but they thread into the slider, if I recall correctly. No nuts. The originals were rusted pretty badly and I had some stainless allens lying around so used them. They haven't seized up and have come out a couple of times in the two years I've now had the bike.

    But that's not what the topic was - it was the bolts retaining the discs. And I haven't had a problem there - though the LS hasn't needed those replaced so they're still the steel originals.

    The R65 splitter isn't that big so I don't see how it could be considered a boat anchor. The way I see it, flex lines should be kept to a minimum length - and that's why smaller metal lines are used for some of the distance. Metal lines don't expand, and they also are lighter. The fittings haven't ever been a problem where they join, so I see no problem there either. I'm sure the engineers had other reasons for keeping flex lines as short as possible, though I don't know what they are. You'll see this on cars and other vehicles as well.
    #16
  17. sh1bby69

    sh1bby69 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    534
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Thanks for all the insight on running the brake lines. I went to the dealer yesterday and they stated the bolts were the same from single to dual discs. So I figured I'd reuse the bolts and just use new nuts.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
    #17
  18. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,116
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay area
    Two lines from up above - either the splitter or the master cylinder? A splitter requires three lines no matter how you slice it. I don't see that as simple and elegant. Not when two will do. Different strokes for different folks. Keeping it down to two lines costs less too.

    I think the R65 splitter is huge but I think realizing you don't need it makes it look bigger.

    Hard lines are great but I don't think a few inches of it is going to make any difference and in my eye unneeded fittings clutters the setup. I would run an R65 just like I have in the past. A double banjo bolt at the MC. R65's have a bolt hole on the top tree that is perfect for mounting an adel clamp to hold the second line right where it bends down the fork tube. To each their own.
    #18
  19. sh1bby69

    sh1bby69 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    534
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Supershaft, would you happen to have any pictures? I'd like to see your set up
    #19
  20. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,116
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay area
    One of these days! I wish I had a scanner. I have regular photos of that setup. I will figure out how to do it soon because I am going to sell my LS and a bunch of parts.
    #20