She's got this crazy idea- exploring the 3 America's solo, for better or for worse...

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Hewby, Sep 10, 2012.

  1. Ulyses

    Ulyses Long timer

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    Love the pics Deb! They're making me want to get back on the road! Can't believe I missed you and Alisson Puerto Notales by a day. :D
  2. Hewby

    Hewby Been here awhile

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    Thanks Bryce, they are giving me the same sense too!
  3. Cuttle

    Cuttle twisted

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    absolutely love it! :clap
  4. DustyRags

    DustyRags Idiot

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    Amazing pictures! Man, I love this report!
  5. skibum69

    skibum69 slave to gravity

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    Rock on! Thank you for the little uplift your pics gave me just before I head out for 3 months on tour in Taipei with no moto in sight for me.
  6. Hewby

    Hewby Been here awhile

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    I could have stayed in Torres Del Paine forever. I had planned to do lots of hiking here when I had envisaged this trip, but somehow time had got away from me. We compromised and camped 2 nights in the park, doing a day walk and enjoying riding the beautiful roads. It is a place I endeavor to return to someday, both for riding and hiking.

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    Coming into the park we met up briefly with Fiona and Matt two Australians on 250’s riding the Americas from the bottom up. A brief but lovely encounter, in which I forgot to get a photo until it was too late.

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    The seasons were turning and my favorite time of the year, autumn was starting to greet us. And, true to form, the mushrooms of the season were also popping up ready to grace our camp dinners, which they did many a night.

    I am excited as always to find a giant puffball
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    Once again my luggage racks were giving me grief, and while I thought JB Weld might help, nothing but Alison’s extraordinary skills with tie downs held me together as I rode a few hundred beautiful km to Purto Natles and another welder.
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  7. Hewby

    Hewby Been here awhile

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    The race was on, leaving Puerto Natales late in the afternoon after having to make a detour to get my racks welded, we rode again till dusk set in, stopping at a tiny pull off on the side of the road, taking the opportunity to hang out all our newly washed clothes….
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    Onwards to Rio Grand we stopped past this awesome ship wreak and I was able to score myself some nice looking mussels to cook up for dinner.
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    As we were to cross back into Argentina, we met up with the wonderful Carlos again. He was riding back from Ushuaia with another biker, Michael, whom he had met on the road, who was also riding a 650gs. They were heading on to Punta Arenas where Michael dropping off his bike which he had already managed to sell to a local. Carlos heard of my timing and shipping dilemma, and assured me he could also sell my bike, for a good price and legally. He begged me to take my time in Ushuaia and enjoy the journey and visit the penguins! Not attempting the insane trip I had before me of touching Ushuaia tonight, with crazy windy and rainy weather looking to set in, and spending the next three days racing the 3000km back to Buenos Aires that I would need to do to ship the bike before my flight. My rear tire was balding, and I was terrified I was going to kill myself on the ride north pushing it too hard. Carlos news was a godsend. I felt he had saved my life. I could hardly contain my excitement. Alison and I went through the border with giddy smiles. We were so close. We might be able to sell our bikes (taking away the last headache of what to do with them), and I actually had some time to enjoy it.
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    As we rode into the rain around Rio Grande we decided with our new news, and my new found breathing space, that we could call it a day, finding some lovely lodging at the Ruta 40 B&B, where discovered many of our friends had been before us. Alison’s bike was having battery starting issues again, so after a few push starts, so we ended up rolling it into the hostel.
    The lovely owner, Willie welcomed us like this was our own home, checked on the safety of my mussels for me, and as with all his guests he took some photos of us, which I have lifted off his facebook site!
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  8. OldTriumphRider

    OldTriumphRider Livin the Dream

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    Been reading this report for ever , you make it so exciting, thank you for taking us alone on your journey!
  9. GuateRider

    GuateRider Long timer

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    After all this time I'm still loving your pics and enjoying your writing :clap:clap:clap
  10. Hewby

    Hewby Been here awhile

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    Thanks for your patience! Getting there slowly!
  11. Hewby

    Hewby Been here awhile

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    At last we were almost at Ushuaia. The place I had dreamed of arriving. The funny little point on a map that had encompassed all that was a dream. That, despite the need to ride out of Ushuaia, signified the end of the trip; the end of the road. The accomplishment of something that many times I did not think I could do. Coming down that road, I couldn’t help but continually stop to take in all around me; to enjoy the mountains, to take photos, to savor the excitement.
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    We stopped at the sign for an obligatory photo our souls singing with joy.
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    We arrived in Ushuaia on International Women’s day, an unplanned, but fitting date to mark the completion of our journey. To celebrate our arrival we went out for a fancy meal celebrating our achievements. After 6 weeks of travelling together, Alison and I had skimped on eating out, instead foraged local food, cooked on our little camp stove, or cooked meals at host’s houses that had taken us in. This was indeed a treat.

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    Again I had hoped to take a berth on a boat down to Antarctica, but the lateness of the season, and a promise I had made to my father five years earlier that I would be home for my mothers 60th birthday, convinced me otherwise. Instead I hold a promise to myself that I will return to this part of the world, to hike further in Patagonia, and to cruise to the icy continent of the south.

    So instead we took Carlos' advice and went on a boat day trip to see penguins. Though we found out later that he wanted us to take a different one that you could walk amongst the birds, and literally almost “kick a penguin” as he so kindly but hilariously put it, as they waddled through your legs and across your path. Another day!
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    Our last leg of our journey south took us to the end of the road, down to the national park south of Ushuaia.

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    While the sign said 17,848km to Alaska my odometer suggested that my journey was closer to 60,000km.

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    It was a beautiful place, but a little disappointing that there was no ice in the water here!
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    From there we could only head north again with our trusty steeds, content with a sense of deep accomplishment.
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  12. enduro Dan

    enduro Dan Sticks and Stones™..

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    :clap

    Great report!
  13. Golden_Cliff

    Golden_Cliff Adventurer

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    Thank you both of you for take us along and tank you for great RR.:clap:clap
  14. DustyRags

    DustyRags Idiot

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    Wow. Thanks, Hewby! That's an amazing adventure, and amazing trip report! And you're amazing too! :D
  15. MeefZah

    MeefZah Curmudgeonly

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    Epic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :clap
  16. ChazW

    ChazW Adventurer

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    Kansas City
    I just read your adventure. You had so many opportunities to quit, yet you stayed the course and followed your dream to completion. What Courage you have displayed. Congratulations on a "Life Accomplishment"!

    :clap
  17. dickosaurus

    dickosaurus Geezer Coalition

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    Cool. Really enjoyed your trip, Hewby. And Happy Birthday to your Mum.
  18. Hewby

    Hewby Been here awhile

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    Feb 20, 2012
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    currently on the road, but I call Tassie home
    Thanks all - it was great to have you along for the ride.
  19. bESS

    bESS Been here awhile

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    Hewby:

    I lurk more than I comment

    I am so sad that your ride is over. I'm also sad that you aren't heading back to Seattle. I'm going to miss your smiling face

    I sort of feel a bit bonded with your Beemer as we were together in it's previous life and I can't believe where both of you have been. It's certainly an accomplishment riding to the end of the World and you are truly an adventurer.

    thanks for taking us along

    bob
  20. Cuttle

    Cuttle twisted

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    :clap

    thank you!