Show and Tell: First Project is Ready for the Road!

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Player B, Apr 9, 2012.

  1. Kunst

    Kunst Adventurer

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    the seat is gorgeous did ya make it yourself?
    #21
  2. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    I thought so too :D

    It is a seat i purchased from MotoLana

    http://www.motolanna.com/ourshop/prod_1910098-Seat-Cafe-Racer-v20.html

    It is made for a yamaha sr500. Took a little bit of cutting and welding to make it fit. There are a couple of other places that sell similar seats. Dime city cycles has recently added one to their inventory. And it looks pretty nice too.
    #22
  3. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    Made a bunch of progress recently.

    a) Had the charging system breakdown on me. Stranded at a gas station 2 miles from home. No biggie. Got it jumped long enough to leave me with enough battery to get home. Tracked the problem down to the board inside my instrument cluster. I didn't realize that the light not turning on at all may actually prevent the battery from charging...

    I'd been meaning to replace the cluster with an acewell unit, so I bit the bullet and purchased the 4583 and proper cable from the guys at Dime City. Spliced in all the wires and miraculously it worked the first time. Not super happy with all the wire management, but there's not much you can do with the stock loom. Most of it hidden under the tank anyways. It's all shrink wrapped nicely, just had to leave more extra wire in there than I would have like to.

    One of the great features about the 4583 is that has a voltmeter function. I left out a secondary charging light for now, and just wired in a small resistor in its place. Not sure if that actually needed to be done, or if i could have just spliced the wires together. But better safe than sorry. Bike has been keeping charge nice now.

    b) replaced the old battery with a much smaller/lighter battery from http://syclbatt.com/. Made a little bracket to hold it in the old airbox location.

    c) Tank got a new look for cheap. Stripped the paint from the upper half. it was in pretty rough shape to begin with. left it bare metal and got some pinstriping tape from autozone to clean up the transition. I'm really happy with the way it turned out. Just need to get some more tank badges.

    Not sure if I should clear coat it or not. Right now, I'm just giving it a generous wipe of wd40 every time I park it in the garage.

    d) had to modify the way I mounted the mufflers, so the pipe wrap had to go. I think this goes better with the new look on the tank, so I probably won't replace it.

    e) I've been working on a cowl cover for the back of the seat. Not sure if I'm going to use it or not. I have a little bit of more work to do on it and I'll try to put some pictures up to see what you guys think of it.

    All that's left for right now are some rear sets and new rear shocks.



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    #23
  4. jsullivan

    jsullivan Been here awhile

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    Looks good! That's a clever trick with the tank... I contemplated buying one of those seats, but decided to have a go at making my own. Did you have any interference with those mufflers and your brake lever?
    #24
  5. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    The fit is definitely tight. About a hairs with between the two. I'm sure they touch a little bit during vibration. Haven't had any problems with it though.
    #25
  6. Kunst

    Kunst Adventurer

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    Looking really tasty. Fair balls having a go at the tank like that! Reminds me of the 'cafe racer dreams' 2-tone tanks.

    Any chance of a few close ups of your seat bracket, and how it fits on the frame? Is the seat the same with as the sub frame or would it drop in there?
    #26
  7. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    The bikes from CRD are the inspiration for tank. Always liked the way they looked, and I think it helps slim down the bike.


    I don't have any pics of the seat area right now, but I'll be sure to snap a few this week if I can. Unfortunately, the seat and subframe are the same width. I was hoping to be able hang the edge of the seat over the horizontal tubes of the subframe, but they won't fit over. I tried to match the lines as best I could. Its not perfect, but I'm happy with how it turned out. I had to find a medium between the lines of the subframe, and a comfortable angle for the seat.

    I've given some thought to fabricating a new subframe, but I figured it could wait as I take care of some other stuff. I've had a bunch of people ask how long it took me to "finish" the bike. I just laugh saying that I don't think it will every be "finished", but it is rideable...
    #27
  8. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    Couple new pictures to show (no, I totally forgot to get some more detailed pics of how the seat is mounted to the sub frame :doh)

    Ordered some new badges from San Jose BMW. The oldschool motosport ones. Really nice quality. Also finished up a little cowl cover for the seat. I cut out part of the original seat unit so I could keep the roundel and model designation emblems. Then gave it the same finish that the tank got.

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    #28
  9. ignatz72

    ignatz72 call me iggy

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    As much as it pains me to say it (I'm a stock-wiring-loom-color-scheme-as-BMW-intended purist), I like this bike.

    If it were my project, I'd next black out the engine and possible add some trick shocks for the rear (with reservoir, comp/rebound adjustments).

    But I wouldn't be ashamed to sit on that one as it is, nice work.
    #29
  10. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    Thanks ignatz! I've had a blast working on the bike. This is my first real project. I've had a lot of inspiration from the other builds on Old's Cool, especially Miob's build (as i'm sure many other have as well). As you can tell, I'm not much of a as BMW purist myself, but tend to really enjoy taking a project and throwing my own spin on to it.

    New rear shocks are on the shortlist of mods that I'd like to add soon. I just started looking into them, and it appears that I'll need to save up a little more. Wasn't quite prepared for the cost of a good pair (almost as much as I spent to purchase the bike), and I'd rather save up for some good ones, than buy a cheaper pair just to put them on there.

    Other than that I'm looking to put on some rearsets and a machined upper triple clamp. I'm torn between just purchasing the rearsets from Boxer Metal or having a go at making my own. Some time this winter I'm going to tear her down and clean up the frame by cutting off the extra tabs and refinishing it. Also going to paint or powder coat the wheels. Probably give the engine a coat while I'm at it too.
    #30
  11. mrbindc

    mrbindc Adventurer

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    Sweet bike, I really like the recent changes. What type of speedo did you mount on it?
    #31
  12. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    Its an Acewell 4553. Its a bit pricer than the 2853 everybody seems to be using, but I prefer it for a couple of reasons
    1. There's an option to turn off the gas gauge, so it doesn't constantly blink
    2. The mechanical tach needle just looks damn good
    3. There is a voltmeter built into it. I had some charging issues, which I eventually tracked down to the circuit board and the gen light. It was intermittently working. Got myself stranded twice, luckily pretty close to home both times. I replaced the Gen Light with a small resistor and haven't had any problems since. Now I can keep a close eye on my battery
    #32
  13. Speed King

    Speed King Long timer

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    That thing looks great.
    #33
  14. gfx

    gfx gfx

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    Really love the frugal and simplistic changes you've made so far. Is that the stock front wheel fender? It looks really sporty compared to the full-length ones on the older /6's and /7's. It looks like someone chopped up the stock one.

    What kind of mufflers are those?
    #34
  15. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    You are correct. Both the front and rear fenders are the stock components. They just had run ins with the dremel. In fact, the two sections I lopped off the front fender are big enough that I'm thinking of using one to make a hugger style fender for the rear.

    The mufflers are units from cone engineering. They come needing a little extra assembly. Ideally I think I would have just welded them in place, but I don't have access to a quality welder at the moment. Instead I took a thin blade on the angle grinder and cut in 3 evenly spaced slits on the end that goes over the exhaust. A heavy duty clamp from dime city cycles holds them down in place. Initially I was a little worried that I don't have any additional supports bolted to the frame, but it's been 4-5 months now and they haven't budged at all.

    They really scream when you get up above 5k rpm. But aren't too obnoxious at cruising speeds. Hopefully at some point soon I can swap bikes with a friend and get to hear what it actually sounds like from a third person perspective.
    #35
  16. gfx

    gfx gfx

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    Any chance for some pics? :evil I've been interested in replacing mine with the medium-length cones for a while, and I'm about the most timid person on the planet when it comes to doing anything like that without some photographs.
    #36
  17. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    here's the Part of the muffler that slips over the exhaust. Pictures not great, but you can see how the slits were cut. This allows the clamp to tighten it down over the exhaust. They're probably 5/8" long. It's slid onto the exhaust as far as possible, and the clamps tightened down. These are the clamps I used.

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    #37
  18. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    Here's a close up of the the battery bracket I made. It is just some sheet metal from Lowe's, cut with a band saw, drilled a couple of holes for looks, and bent on a sheet metal brake. Bolted down in the same 3 locations the Airbox is. There is a layer of rubber and insulation put down before the battery. The inner tube bands are probably unnecessary, but they are used to secure everything down into place. Assembly is a little tricky, but once its all in there, it doesn't want to go anywhere.

    Sorry, for the blurry pics. I could swear these looked better when I took them last night.

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    I saw this on another build from the DoTheTon forums. Placing the filter pods on the the ends of the original intake manifolds. I know there has been a lot of previous work done to optimize similar options. Most of it is way above my head. But overall, it should reduce the turbulence of the airflow into the carburetor. I haven't had any serious issues balancing the carbs to the pods, but I also never really got idle to smooth out as nice as it was with the airbox there. Haven't taken it for a serious ride yet, but I did start it up in the garage and the idle seemed to be just a bit smoother than it has been.

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    #38
  19. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    Well, have had a couple of requests about the seat and subframe modifications. Took some pics, but we've had crappy weather in dallas the last several days so they're inside and may be a little dark.

    The seat is a motollana unit, but recently DCC has started carrying their own that look very similar too.

    Here's the bottom of the seat. You can see where I had to cut into the rear section so I could fit the cover flush.
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    The rear hoop was cut off the subframe and brackets welded on the front and back. The the front tabs slide into the front bracket and the seat bolts down to the rear section.

    So far so good, no problems with it. I know the front bracket has a pretty large moment arm on the weld, but it's made out of 3/16" steel angle iron and has a pretty large weld running on it.

    There's a sheet metal part that covers up the underside of the seal and has the brake light and turn signals mounted to it.

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    #39
  20. Player B

    Player B Adventurer

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    They are made by Cone Engineering. Lots of places buy them, rebrand them, and sell them for slightly more. I bought mine from Lossa Engineering and I know Dime City Cycles also carries them. Not sure, but you may be able to save a couple bucks and get them directly from Cone.

    They fit through the break lever without any modification. It is very close though.
    #40