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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Ricardo Kuhn, Feb 3, 2012.
About the carpet inside the box. The walls are the same - the thickness is about 1-2mm and about one more mm that is really soft... The bottom of the box is elevated for about 20mm due to the soft foam on the bottom and the carpet... it is not much compressible due to relatively stiff carpet... but if you put there something it may compress the foam lil bit but not much. So on sides its almost the same, bottom lil bit decreases the clearance for about 20mm
during the las 2 years I have done a few things like a windshield spoiler, headlight plastic protector, oil cooler mesh protector, adapt adventure footpegs, cut the bike in half 3 times , 2 for the gear box and 1 for the clutch, adapt vario top case, master cilinder front brake, replace and fix screw, instal quick couplings on the gas linesand alot of adjusting and renewing since is an old bike but exelent ride!!!
I did all of this with alot of reading of the knowledge from this threads and good adviceses from people like JVB, and many other exelent inmates!! THANKS!!!
WARNING: Do not click on that link unless you have a couple of days to spare!
I ended up reading the whole built thread, then thr RRs, then researching what have been posted on those two threads.
On a serious note: quite an interesting fellow. Amazing tech skills and great story teller.
I've been using the back rack on my Y2K 1150GS mainly on multi-day trips to hold my running shoes. The stock rack is barely large enough to hold those, and is otherwise useless. My plan is not to hold a lot of weight, just make that rack a bit bigger with some good attachment points. I had some spare 1/4" thick ABS sheet laying around, so I zipped this out last night (appx dims 12.5" x 7.5"):
The stock rear rack, drilled and tapped:
Rack installed. One other benefit, I think it helps to update the look of the stock rack:
Although this one is sturdy and inexpensive, I may make one a bit larger, and if so I will probably use 1/4" thick aluminum plate.
Good grief...that looks incredibly professional! How did you cut that so precisely?!
looks good, but dont make it larger unless you reinforce underneath first!
10 lbs on a rough road will crack the stock rack
Any details on the gauges?
Um, I am a professional.
Fabricator, that is. I worked for a couple of years exclusively with Acrylic and other types of plastics.
Most plastics including ABS work very well with traditional woodworking tools.
Yup, I know that stock rack is very limited. I just wanted to increase the surface area a bit, make it useful for carrying my running shoes and maybe light groceries.
Thanks for the compliments, guys!
one thing to keep in mind, my stock rear rack was cracked from being used as a lifting point ( bike on its side)
any extra leverage you put there will severely weaken the stock design.
just my opinion of course, you are a pro it shows, I have no doubt you have already thought more about it than I have!
I use 2 vaccum manometers from 0 to -30 inhg or 0 to -76 cmhg and the most importan thing are the orifice that are the ones that keep the needles stable so you can have a good reading, I made the orifice with two insulin syringe needles gauge 25 (0.455mm / 0.018in)
the only thing that I bought were the manometers the rest are left over and scrap recycle.
No doubt Mouth, no doubt.
BTW, Nice rack!
I appreciate the tip and the concern. Perhaps the add-on looks bigger in the photo than in reality. It's only about 2" wider and 2.5" longer than the stocker. The most I would load this with is a gallon of milk or gasoline. I've got racks and Pelican cases for the heavy stuff.
Honestly my main concern was to make the stock back rack useful for something, and to improve the appearance. It was pretty much just an ugly tail light mount prior to my addition.
Nice work JVB. I like it!
OBTW... where did you find my pliers??
You lost them a long time ago? I really don't know where I got them, HF maybe?
I was so impressed with ownst1100's cooking setup I made my own. Mine isn't as involved as his, I simply wanted a wind block for my stove and a convenient food-prep area for when picnic tables are not available. I thought the positioning of rear-bike-mount made a lot of sense. It's a great work height. Also, I wanted mine to be very small when folded, which it is.
Shown stowed on my top box, a Pelican 1550. Folded dimensions (appx) 12.5" x 10" x 1". Also shown is the ABS rear platform I made to create a bit bigger footprint for better stability:
Takes less than a minute to set up.
Other uses are on the tailgate of the Land Cruiser when 4 wheeling, and it's small and light enough to fit into a backpack for mountaineering.
Thanks ownst1100 for the inspiration!
Great idea. Reminds me of the 'wind screens' on the ole Coleman stoves.
I also use a 1550 and have Varios.
Going to look into designing something like yours/other one that utilizes the Vario as the support on the bottom. (You used an additional ABS plate).
Martillo...do have any 'patterns' that you used?
That is...mine would mount to the right side...with the back attached to the RotoPax.
Might even utilize the 1-gallon RotoPax handle as part of the securing???
<a href="http://s635.beta.photobucket.com/user/RMWBMW/media/2012%20Trip%20to%20Alaska/ONE%20WORLD%20Alaska%202012/DSC01284.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu73/RMWBMW/2012%20Trip%20to%20Alaska/ONE%20WORLD%20Alaska%202012/DSC01284.jpg" border="0" alt=""Sign Forest" at Watson Lake, BC"/></a>
Thanks. I'm looking forward to seeing the variation.
Out of order, but you get the idea.
Front axle tool for my 1200. I spent about $8 at the hardware store and made two of them... one to show and one to go.