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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by KTMarty, Mar 8, 2009.
Nice. I need that for my Versys.
Ya shoulda covered up that rusty hardware before ya took the pic!
I keep forgetting I am not a KLR rider!
Seriously, a 120K mile GS has a right to a spot or two of rust.
Hoooooooooly shit, that's cool!
Cnc cut 5/8" plate bonded to 1/8" alum bracket. They sell something similar but not exactly.
Wanted to have a proper tool kit but didn't want to pay for that overpriced stuff. Decided to make my own one with a leftover jeans, and some other leftovers.
here is step by step:
The inner layer
assembling my tools for the space
finished product. Added some magnets to hold the folded thing together. Took me the afternoon and two beers
Nice work but this ratio concerns me.
Considering I just got my toolkit in the mail today, which I paid $80 for, this looks way better! Bravo
The girlfriend wanted bags for her DR, so I ordered a sheet of .063 and got to work! I have yet to silicone the seams and install weatherstripping, but she doesn't do much riding in the rain anyways.
Fuck $600 aluminum panniers, these cost me $30, and if she drops it and dents one, I'll just pull the rivets out and make a new panel!
Oh yeah, and they'll also be getting flush mounted turn signals as the bags interfere with the stock ones.
Not bad for home made!
Is there a reason you have them opening forward? Seems like if you forget to latch one it could fly open and damage it.
You'd have to build your own rack (I've sold both my DR350's) but it wouldn't be much... shoot me a PM if you're really interested.
I like to be able to get into my bags while sitting on the bike. Grab some sunglasses, switch gloves, grab a sip of water at a stop light. Not to mention the fact that her DR200 doesn't like much over 55, so there's no real danger of high speed gear dumps
I was thinking the rear hinges was crazy at first, but after you explained it, it made so much more sense. In fact I'm thinking of adding hinges to the rear of my new panniers. I have been waffling on using detachable latches on both ends, but worry that if one pops open then the lids on my boxes can fly off and be lost without me knowing it. I have a hatchet and other camping items strapped to the underside of my lids. So losing them will mean losing some expensive equipment.
And come to think of it, I'm always wanting something out of my suitcase panniers at stop lights, so having them hinge at the rear and latch at the front will make it more practical. The main reason I am building new top loaders is the suitcase style are just so hard to load. And forget getting into them from the saddle.
And I can check on top lid boxes security while riding by just running my hand over the front latch to make sure they are latched securely.
Think I'm going to redo them before I powder coat them!
Sometimes it's the simplest of ideas that make the biggest differences. Glad I could help
Only problem being Mitey, now that I have seen your boxes I have been Googling Sheet Metal Brakes and aluminium sheet retailers instead of doing what I'm getting paid for.
Great job, and I'm in agreement with the front opener idea; maybe the left one as a front opener (for your free hand) and the right one the conventional way, just in case.
I called a Aircraft Mechanic Friend of mine yesterday and started talking about using my sheet metal brake bender on Aircraft Aluminum and got a good lesson on the right way and wrong way to bend aluminum. Found out my sheet metal brake won't work on aluminum too well. He's got some Airplane skin he's going to let me have to see if I can make some boxes like these. My next Door neighbor has a bender in his airplane hanger behind his house with the proper radius feet I can use for the corners. So I'm going to try my hand at them.
The 30 MM Navy heavy steel ammo cans I have for the latest set of panniers are heavy. My KLR is already a pig, so saving some weight would be nice. Thinking of making the boxes to fit the Metal Ammo Lids. They have some nice seals built into them. and I've already added equipment loops and racks for the hatchet, hunting knife and other stuff!
I've got a tubing bender and make all my own racks and crash bars, so I'll just adapt the new boxes to my old racks. Well, actually I just made myself a new set of racks this Winter for the KLR and added some features I wanted. Like a 1.5 gallon spare fuel can behind the left pannier and a tool box holder behind the right pannier. Plus a rifle scabbard rack for my 30-30. Oh and a removable hitch for my one wheel trailer I built this Winter. Pulls great BTY!
The rack I built is stout enough I can pick my bike up by it, WHILE LOADED, and not hurt it!
Had to drag a bike back up a mountain once and we destroyed his pannier rack doing it. Lesson learned!
I wasn't happy with the XR's braking but I didn't want to go the full super moto route - no problem.
1) Find a larger front rotor that fits the XR's front hub. After much looking I stumbled upon an EBC 276mm rotor for the Honda Africa Twin and it became mine for about $110.
2) Whittle away unnecessary metal from a DL1000's left caliper carrier. It was surplus from my VStrom's GSXR 750 brake upgrade.
3) Fabricate an adapter out of steel to mount the modified DL1000 caliper to the XR's fork leg. The steel was in my scrap box under the bench.
4) Bolt it together, bleed it and go bed in the new HH pads. I can't remember the cost of the pads but it wasn't much.
33% increase in brake swept area by virtue of the larger rotor and the DL caliper's wider pads - priceless.
Hi Lex, that's looks like a nice upgrade, did you first try and make a bracket for the stock caliper?
No, I wanted to use bigger pads as well as a bigger rotor. I think that the DL caliper's pads are 3mm wider than the XR's. I initially thought about using a 4 puck caliper like I used to upgrade my VStrom's brakes but the XR doesn't leave enough room between the rotor and the spokes.