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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.
Also, see post #7374 on this very thread.
this is the thread of awesome. Just love it how you guys help out when someone asks a question.
found it http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...alp-modifications.39170/page-356#post-9759159
that's with hawk rotor and ta wheel
this is mine with xr wheel
straight fit of the ta caliper is out of option (i think) unless using xr650l forks with the ta caliper 98-07.but you'll have to fit the 256mm disc.... that disc has 4 holes and can't be fitted to your wheel.
go for 320mm disc with any caliper by fabricating or buy a reallocation bracket .
you will be amazed from your brakes.believe me
Short answer: NO
There are axle changes, bearing changes, different year XR forks (some cartridge some not) etc
Then you have to compensate for the increased front height with a longer rear shock or shock mods.
Last but no least you must make certain the tire/fender does not contact the downtube/crashbars etc on full compession.
What is your goal with these mods?
650 with exhaust from 700.
Direct fit without touching the side panel.info that may help someone.
Mitas E-010 no good..
I need to replace my battery and am thinking about adding some additional lights.
I recall reading about an alternator from another bike that was easily installed, and higher output. I can't find the link now. Does anybody else have this information?
Also, I am a bit nervous about LiPo as I live in a hot environment, but by all accounts, the Shorai seems to be the best battery for these bike. Is there anyone in a hot place with good data on how the Shorai has held up?
Oh, I would appreciate thoughts about lights as well. I am leaning towards LED, mounted on my engine guards.
The nice thing about LED - no large current draw so you don't need to upgrade the alternator.
The bad thing - very hard to get an LED with the same reach as a good high-wattage Helium globe or HID if you're planning on night riding. LED is really good for trail work - lights up everything beautifully. Not much good on back-roads traveling at 100km/h or more where there are no cat-eyes or other reflective aids.
Hi there , is there some nice mod after this happened? Broken clutch lever bracket. Any other better option then original? Can you suggest some replacement , more durable?
Hi there , after 3800 km, 2 adults, alu paniers fully loaded, 2 weeks on tarmac 90% + 10% offroad riding. Notking extra hard, speed between 50-130 kmh, riding allday long , wet & dry , pretty good seems to be. Amazing in mud and offroad. ON tarmac is a bit noisy, not that responsive, realy funny in rails , no matter if small or big , but its typical for nobby tires I guess . Pretty good tyre for these money¨, good for me at least. I can t say , it is a bad tyre, but of course, im not a kind of pro
wheels down , respect
Does that tire have 3800 kilometers on it? Wow! My Kenda Big blocks don't do that well.
yes. it is even over now and it looks the same. This tyre is e-10 Dakar version. It was hard to put on a rim, because its quite reinford structure, but it is there and it is doing well. I wonder how will it looks like in a future so far so good
Hello, all! I'm the proud new owner of skybo1's masterpiece '89 Transalp resto-mod. I've already read a ton of this thread and appreciate the collective wisdom here.
I just took delivery a couple days ago. The bike was shipped from NC to OR via Haulbikes. It took them about 3 weeks, and the bike arrived in perfect condition. The drivers were excellent, and know bikes. The driver who dropped it off even hauls his own bike around in the trailer for down days! He gets paid to ride, occasionally, and I get paid to snorkel Hawaii, so I think we'll call it a draw.
I normally don't ride in traffic whenever I can avoid it, but I did run into Portland for one trip, and holy hell was that a good reminder why I prefer the back roads and dirt! Most drivers, when confronted with a motorcycle are as dumb as most deer when confronted with a car.
Anyway, I'm listed in the tent space thread, but I'll throw it out here, too: SE of Portland with tons of room for a tent, or possibly a guest bed available, along with a garage/tools, etc. Oh, and bike storage is no problem, as well.
Congratulations on your new purchase, I'm sure you will be very, very happy.
I had the 'CDI failure', read about how to open and solder to repair the CDI in this thread, and repaired my faulty unit. Thanks guys!
My question is this. I ordered two new CDI units for spares (A double in case of trouble!!!) from this seller on amazon...
The replacement CDI does not work. From what I understand about the part #, this is the correct part #.
Is there something anyone is aware of that would make this CDI unit not work with my bike?
As for now,I asked the seller for a replacement CDI.
For my '94 TA I buyed these CDIs from Italy where I live
The seller declare CDI 87/95. Until now they work well... But the original CDI is Shindengen, very expensive. this CDI-copy are inexpensive, made form China. When you replace it and connect it, you doesn't know if it will work and how much it will work. Maybe I'm only a fortunate man...
We've seen problems like this with the units built in China. The units from Argentina (about $70 on ebay) seem to last well and I do not believe anyone has has a bad one right out of the box.
Currently I'm running these:
The bike runs better in the midrange with these (see previous posts). Unfortunately there is little if any long-term data as yet.
In Europe these units cost $140 + shipping cost
My PD 10. I have paint it in colors of the Dakar winner of 1986 Cyril Neveu.
Swing arm from Africa twin RD 07, 18” rear wheel, Hyper Pro springs front and rear and Remus exhaust.