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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.
for the 600 guru's....somebody needs your help
XL600V Specific Clutch problem
I ordered another CDI from another company, SVS Powersports through Amazon.
The CDI ws made by 'Arrowhead MFG." Part IHA6001. 'Made in Argentina'.
This CDI works great. No problems so far.
Sorry, I replied by conversation. Here is what I said:
No particular schedule. Changed oil about every 2000 miles Rotella T6 10 w 40
Plugs changed last year.
Carbs cleaned last year.
New fuel lines last year
Registration July renewed.
Now that NC700 are dirt cheap..............I often think a great project would be EFI NC700/750 engine in a Transalp would be fun.
Welcome back! Since you own a NC700 what are your thoughts on how well the engine would fit space wise? I have never ridden a NC700, how do you like the engine performance and gearing?
Not sure of the fit........NC cylinders are low and come out the front.
The engine has great “manners” EFI is almost flawless, with low end and flat torque curve. Stock gearing is tall and would need be lowered if your TA was used off road. Stock suspension on NC is the very weak “link” that’s where the Transalp chassis witha modern engine might be the perfect solution. I use my NC the same way I used the the TA. I put emulators in the front and Ohlin shock in the rear.
I suspect grafting the NC engine into the TA chassis would be a huge project..........I have not sized it up....only dreaming. If a TA came by my way I would like a new project...........again that engine transplant might sound better than reality.
One of my old friends took his NC on our annual CO jeep trail trip this last September. The bike was stock except for TKC80's. The bike did great.... went every where we went. And the rider has a fake hip and a pace maker.
My little tranny being pieced back together post it's long voyage from the Netherlands
I like that "flat" seat profile, looks much more comfortable than the original seat.
I can advise that it is. I had the seat done by a specialist and I asked him to do it that way. It was designed for long distance comfort and it delivers.
Hi guys. I've run into a problem getting my bike through NZ compliance. I thought I might run into this problem but was hoping it would slip through.
Because the bike is from Europe, the headlight on low beam is slanted to the right (away from oncoming traffic). But in NZ we drive on the left hand side so this beam setting is pointing towa4rds, not away from oncoming traffic. Yes the headlight is not bright on dipped beam, the compliance shop nevertheless cannot let it through.
So I need to try and source either a second hand part or a new part. I have the NZ Distributor looking for a new part, but I'm not sure they can find one.
The details are below for a 1998 XL600V. This is the part number for a UK/Aus speak 97-99 600 tranny.
If I cannot source a new or second hand part I will have to look to non OEM solutions, not sure what this will be.
Grateful for any suggestions you might have? Cheers...
http://www.anacondaltd.co.nz/ That guy is full of surprises, but propably you'll still need to turn towards Japan...
In NZ the oncoming trafic is on your lane anyway, so I don't see no reason for not using the original light! Ü
Anyone else have a wandering idle?
I can leave for a ride and the idle is fine at around 1300 but a couple hours in it's stumbling to stay running trying to idle at 900-1000. I think it happens more in the cold so my brain wants to go to air-fuel mixture and jets.
If I try to turn the idle up the rpm increases and hangs when I pull in the clutch to shift gears and will slooooowly come back down if I keep the clutch in and coast.
Have a look at your carb diaphragms.
The new ones are dark gray with a dull sheen soft and pliable. If yours are stiff, wrinkly and shiny black and 25 years old, they likely should be replaced. Particularly if they are cracked around the edges and/or have splits and holes in them.
They are not cheap so if you can find someone to loan you a pair for diagnostics, it might save a few dollars.
Might also look at partially clogged idle jets. When you turn the idle speed screw up enough to make it idle, it might be getting into the mid range (main jet) and the fast idle will hang. Those little idle jets stop up easily.
Thanks, will definitely inquire through this site.
The light bias in NZ needs to be to the left not the right.
Edit - no stock.
I recently bought an 89 Transalp for light commuting and the seller threw in another 89 as a parts bike. While it’s in pretty rough shape, it’s got potential.
I was originally planning on pulling parts off the parts bike, restore them, and swap/save them to keep my commuter bike fresh. However, I was holding out hope that Honda was going to come out with a lighter rally raid alternative to the Africa Twin this year. Obviously the bike show season has passed and it didn’t happen.
With that in mind, and after my brief time with this sweet engine, falling in love with it, and realizing I'm basically riding a twin cylinder XL with the potential to have XR-like off road capability, my plan is to do a frame up rally raid build of the parts bike (assuming I can get a clean title generated).
I’ve been working my way through the thread, and doing my best to read it in sections (figuring it best to go back to around 2014 and go forward, working my way through the 700s now).
I’ll save you all from the usual questions (suspension, fairing/body work) as I have a plan based on the years of posts in this thread.
However I’ve got two initial questions, one simple, the other a really probably addressed in the thread, but I swear I’ve searched.
1. The parts bike doesn’t have a key and I want to be able to use the keyed ignition if possible. The parts bike also has a locking gas cap, which I am hoping is keyed alike to the ignition. At this point I care more about getting the keyed gas tank cap off the gas tank so I can get a look inside the tank and see how badly it’s rusted. I also want to get the tank painted and put a non-keyed cap on it. Can I take the tank, ignition, and tool box/helmet holder with a blank off eBay to a locksmith? Can they cut a key to fit?
2. Idiot lights, controls, sensors wiring
I’d like to eliminate as much of the idiot lights, sensors, wiring as possible. I’ll likely use a simple Speedo/ODO from an 80s Honda ATC as the center piece for my fairing. I’d also like to eliminate the heavy/clunky 80s street bike based controls for signals and lights and go with something slicker, modern. Are there thread pages/posts for me to find that show how others have done it? At the end of the day, I want to build a 2 cylinder dirt bike with a rally fairing and basic street controls.
Somewhere I read that you'll find a key code on the backside of the baseplate for the helmet lock on the left side. I can't prove that and I don't know if it will be useful for a locksmith. Maybe a Honda dealer can use it to order a new key.
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We transported an XL600 on a trailer once. 1400km on, the key was missing - never did figure out whether we left it at home, or it blew out.
Took the locksmith about 15min to make us a new key. No transponder. The 89 TA should be just as easy.
A "good" lock smith can make you a key with just what you have. I don't really understand how they do it, even after standing there watching him do it.
There have been several guys do a stripped down version and a few even have raced them. They are in this thread somewhere.
You're gonna need a manual/wiring diagram... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Serv...ash=item3f8a97b543:g:dPsAAOSwVlVZ93zd&vxp=mtr ...