Show us your TransAlp modifications!

Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.

  1. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,142
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    What do you mean fully loaded?

    In any case, check your rear sag with you on the bike and the bike loaded as ridden. You should have no more than 2.5 inches....if it's more, crank up the preload until it goes away.

    If is doesn't go away, reduce the load or replace the rear spring.

    Generally TAs with too much rear sag exhibit very odd handling, wobbling etc.
  2. ric678

    ric678 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2010
    Oddometer:
    866
    Location:
    WNY, where it no longer snows
    That would fix my problem, If only my wife would understand having 2 of basically the same bike...
  3. ferretface

    ferretface Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    57
    Location:
    Wellington, NZ
    With hard luggage and probably adding an extra 40kgs overall. Its pretty damn heavy!

    I've got the preload on Max already but the sag is probably too much due to the weight. I'm due to get a new rear spring so hopefully that will sort it.

    Cheers for your input Ladder.

    Dan.
  4. wdeTA

    wdeTA TransAlp Adv

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2006
    Oddometer:
    483
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    I have always had a bit of front end bounce in the 35-45 mph range. Isn't apparent at lower speeds and goes away as the speed increases. Not a problem, just noticeable. Changes in wheel balancing and application of Dyna-Beads has no effect.

    A mechanical engineering friend of mine thought it had to do with the designs of the dual sport tires. At a certain speed there is a bit of resonance because of the blocks/gaps in the tire tread. I do notice that the exact speed at which it occurs depends on the particular tire I am using and to some degree the surface of the road and tire pressure I am running, so I think his observation has merit. A friends TA has the same issue. It's never caused an problem, so I ignore it.

    If the problem is severe for you it may be another issue. I had a significant wobble (as opposed to bounce - highly technical terms) at higher speeds (over 65 mph) when I put a new rear shock on. Adjusting the rear pre-load as others have suggested got rid of that issue.
  5. ferretface

    ferretface Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    57
    Location:
    Wellington, NZ
    I was running Conti tkc80's on it before and put it down to being a nobbly but I've since moved to Anakee II's and thought the problem might disappear with it being a more road biased tyre. It's pretty noticeable on my bike so think whatever is causing it could be increasing the affects with the additional weight.

    Thinking about it, I don't think the progressive springs are not working as I expected - hitting any potholes and you really feel it hard compared to the standard fork springs.....almost as though it bottoms out.....Can anyone confirm if this is normal?
  6. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,987
    Location:
    Piedmont region NC
    That's not normal. they are stiffer than the OEM springs but nothing like what you described. Did you put the right amount of fork oil in? Fork oil weight? They should not come close to bottoming on the road.
  7. explain

    explain Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    35
    Location:
    Eastern Europe
    Hi,
    i'm about to upgrade CDIs for my Transalp. The unit of choice is DC-CDI-P2 from Ignitech.cz
    Question is how is that unit protected from water. I don't want a unit to die because of "not indoor usage". What are the opinions of owners of that unit?

    Here is the photo of a unit i'm thinking about. Serial port (for unit programming) sticking out of the box doesn't look watertight at all. That's my concern
    [​IMG]

    Thanks
  8. Dekatria

    Dekatria Ad Astra Per Aspera

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2011
    Oddometer:
    993
    Location:
    The Netherlands, Europe
    Does anyone here know how often to check the spokes on a '99, and what the torque setting should be if any need tightening? I have got no problems at the moment, but I'm just curious about it. Cheers :thumb
  9. locorider

    locorider Loco, pero no estúpido!

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,724
    Location:
    Puerto Rico, U.S.A.
    ....or buy them here, under air filter... http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

    On the other hand, I did mine with lawnmower filter too...
  10. R_Rick

    R_Rick Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    424
    Location:
    Halifax, NS
    My 87 was outfitted with an ignitech when I bought it. I've been sorting out some other issues so haven't had much seat time and cannot comment on it yet. However, one thing to consider if you get it - take the stock cdi holder, cut the middle section out (piece of rubber that would normally separate the two units) and the cdi can be placed horizontal to keep the connectors away from the seat. If you're concerned about the serial port cap letting water in, give it a few wraps with electrical tape or zip tie a small piece of sandwich bag over the port.

    cheers

    Rick
  11. Daveski

    Daveski n00b

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2011
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    Bonnie Scotland
    Right All,

    I have been lurking on these pages for way too long and to say they've been an inspiration is an understatement! This is my first post so if I screw up, sorry! The mods from folk in the US and elsewhere made me buy a 97 transalp 600 (in good nick) last Feb. I was looking for a more versitile bike than my KTM 640 LC4E, which was awesome, but I wanted more robustness, smoother engine characteristics, bigger service intervals for big trips and simpler servicing and happy to sacrifice a little dirt ability as I am not on the hard end of it - this all came out of taking my ktm to Sweden and riding as much dirt as possible. The KTM rocked, but I felt I could have more by getting a TA and taking a spanner to it. So, I had the odd road trip on the TA in its original state and then set about making it 'better' over the winter - well for what I want... As such, just wanted to share where I'm at with her with you to say thanks! Inspired by the likes of modrover and atgreg, with other folk and there africa alps - i forget all the names, but you've all played a part in me wanting to make something both cool and useful - though there's still a wee way to go, I'm just gonna ride her for the summer, and see where I go next winter... Right, photos...

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]

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Summary of mods:

    KTM 640 Adv Yokes, Forks, Front Wheel, and Brembo Brake with 320mm rotor/disc - much easier than I'd imagined as I realised that the TA takes the same head bearings as the AT - for which you can get an aftermarket replacement steering stem to fit KTM ADV yokes ( http://www.ruggedroads.co.uk/shop/a...k-Conversion.html?shop_param=cid=30&aid=7016& ). There seemed to be a 5mm difference in headtube length which I sorted with a spacer under the top cap. Put new needle bearings in at the sametime.
    Sunline Bars - have some black ktm handguards to add.
    Simpson Detour Side Supersport fairing - great guys to talk too and deal with - I was after the twin headlight type and looked at A LOT of options from using a 640 adv fairing, a boano (maybe in the future?), numerous universal type rally fairings from german manufacturers - but settled on this which I love. The idea when I removed the original fairing and cradle frame was too loose weight and still have good lights with a rally/enduro edge and this ticks the boxes for me. Above 75mph is a bit blustery and I am considering ordering a laminar lip made for a 640 adv which should fit perfectly and take the edge off on longer trips.
    Cut the clocks down to fit but will ultimately be putting on some trailtech number when I can be arsed - just enjoying riding again right now.
    Radiator shrouds are I think UFO aftermarket for a 1990-1992 honda cr125/250 (thanks to a french chap on this thread who's name I couldn't find) - had to do a little cutting to make them more flush with tank then heated them up with heatgun in the area close to tank and shaped them by holding in place on tank and letting cool. Not bad, but may go for similar ally ones that modrover made eventually - though I like that I can drop it with less fear!
    SW Motech Engine guard
    Aftrica Twin RD04 rear shock, rear swing arm, linkage and axle. Aluminium so reducing the unsprung weight and also balances up the geometry of the front forks adding more travel and increasing the rear ride height. Used original rear disk brake, but replaced the rear wheel (as had bimetallic rust around spokes and rim) with a mint one from a 650 TA - the rear wheels are identical.
    Front indicators are in the mirrors for a clean look - though I'll take these off for more challenging dirty stuff, rear are from a ktm exc.
    Got rid of old rear light for an LED unit that someone else on here had used - thank you for the idea! DRC Edge 2.
    Aly Chain guard
    Avon Distanzia Tyres - okay on gravel and great on the road - set of tkc80s for more dirt.
    Supermoto mudguard.
    Remus can came with bike - perfect.

    I am planning to fit a decent pannier rack and set of ARDCases Panniers - I had a pair on my KTM and they are impeccably well made - the the bloke that makes them, rodger, is a gent. May also think about some crash bars, we'll see.


    The bike handles great, confident on gravel and superb on the road... I've only done a couple of hundred miles so far, so there's bound to be some tweeking. I serviced the forks and was wondering about stiffer springs... not yet sure - stock ktm 640 adv about 155kgs, plus takes 30l of fuel so another 30kgs, I've lost at least 10kgs from the trannie, plus it takes only 18l of fuel, plus I only weigh 76kg - we'll see how it works out, just want to keep the front and back balanced which currently they seem to be. Oh, and its about 2 inches taller front and back - which suits me fine. Still gotta get the side stand modified, but will probably keep using a 2 x 4 for the centre stand for the time being.

    Think that's about it. Just passed its MOT (so is now road legal) - so time to have some adventures...

    Massive thanks to all those that have contributed to this thread - truly inspirational - and it was great to steal a lot of your ideas!

    Cheers, Dave.
  12. Hotmamaandme

    Hotmamaandme Wishing I was riding RTW

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,725
    Location:
    Gardnerville NV
    Good job on that conversion! Love the CR250 tank shrouds! Might need them some day.
  13. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,966
    Location:
    DFW TX
    Great work on bike the Daveski. I envy you guys over there having all the different models and varieties of used and new parts to choose from. Over here in the US with only the '89 & '90 TA available, you really have to be a fan and determined (obsessed). Again, really nice bike !!!
  14. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,142
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    Welcome and "Well Done", Daveski.

    Nicely played
  15. dualdogdave

    dualdogdave Twin Power Rules!

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    148
    Location:
    Santa Cruz Mountians
    Welcome Daveski

    Very Nice !
  16. Daveski

    Daveski n00b

    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2011
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    Bonnie Scotland
    Thanks for the welcome! Couple of days of experimenting mean I'm going for a higher spring rate on the front (WP progressive), and gonna add a Hyperpro prog spring to the rear. Seems that the original springs on the 640 adv are way on the soft side in the first place. Hopefully that'll have her fully dialled shortly. Royce, you're absolutely right, we are very lucky with parts over here - I've picked up from the UK, Germany, Austria and Italy to get my bike fettled on a tight budget - what did we do before fleabay?!

    On that note, I was going to open up some parts to offers - might be easier as a job lot, though I don't know how cost effective it would be to have parts shipped to the states or even if there would be that much interest. Anyhow, I'll probably try and list on the flea market when I get the chance as I'm aware this thread is probably not the right place to do this!

    Parts (97 ta600):
    http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s446/daveski1000/photo.jpg
  17. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,966
    Location:
    DFW TX
    You are right about the shipping being a little pricey, but in a lot of cases there is no choice. I have found a few cooperative riders over there that have shipped me RD04 parts ( clocks, and a nice Rothmans jacket ), but some won't, and of course, I understand. Right now I need a rear RD04 suspension link and mounting bolts, already have the swing arm, but it's hard to tell if you are looking at the correct part on ebay, so haven't pulled the trigger yet. If it was easy, anybody could do it, Right.
  18. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,142
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    I do not believe there is any difference between the RD04 and Transalp suspension links other than the large allen bolt that attaches it to the AT swingarm and I think that can be sourced from other US Honda parts..

    [​IMG]
  19. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,966
    Location:
    DFW TX
    Thanks Ladder, I remembered ravelv and some others trying to work through this a long while back, and thought there might be a geometry problem. I'll try to source the bolts. What did you wind up with for front suspension? Think I remember you changed from the xr forks. ---too tall/tippy?
  20. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,142
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    The XR long forks just did not fit the kind of riding I use the TA for. If I routinely took trips to Africa or the Nevada desert, I'd have kept the long legs.

    As it is now, I'm using NX forks and a Ricor rear shock. About 8 inches of travel on both ends is plenty for the fire/gravel roads I routinely ride. The 11 in. travel front and tall rear just made the bike too much of a handful in tighter riding.

    I think that special allen bolt is the same one used for the XR250. I think I have one still in the parts bag with number. I'll have a hunt through the spares box.