Show us your TransAlp modifications!

Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.

  1. Crash48

    Crash48 Secular Lord

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    Thank you JB and APP... Happy Trails called Givi for me while I was on the phone and discovered the last one in North America was sitting in Charlotte NC - on it's way to Dartmouth now:clap
  2. jtwind

    jtwind Wisconsin Airhead

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    If anyone else needs a set, twisted throttle's website shows they have some in stock also. Usually pretty accurate.
  3. dfc

    dfc Reluctant Cannonball

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    I can't remember and I didn't flag it. Anyone know if an '87 xr600 triple/forks will mate up to the '89 Transalp? an Inmate is selling a set, not sure I am ready to do it but just in case.......
  4. Lomax

    Lomax Nanu-Nanu Adventurer

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    I just picked up a highly modified 89 Transalp, Yes the one Jim has show earlier in this thread. :clap But my real question is does anyone have any advice on side rack for the bike ? It has a big Hayabusa muffler on it and while it does not look the best it sure is light, sounds good, and runs great. I do not know if this would interfere with a stock type side racks or not.

    open to suggestions.

    Marc
  5. old2wheeler

    old2wheeler Former nÔÔb

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    I went out to the garage and measured mine. I have the one Happy Trails sells and there is 5 &1/2 " between the stock luggage rack and the inside of the side rack on the muffler side. If you use happy trails panniers, their mounting device takes up 3/8 " of that, but you can have them leave the drilling of the bolt holes for the two that would possibly interfere with the muffler and possibly choose a location that would not interfere. The side racks are connected to each other by a "u" shaped rod that goes under the tail light. That bolts to the side rack about 5 & 1/2 " lower than the bottom of the stock luggage rack. I'm really happy with the rack & the panniers. Hope this helps, & let me know if you need other measurements.

    Rod
  6. shimazaki

    shimazaki Adventurer

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    Maybe anyone can have a ideia of what maybe the problem,

    this weekend I went for off road event with some friends and when coming back home on the road I've started to ear some noises on the engine, today I went to look at the bike and found no only a few oil in it, almost nothing... refilled the oil and went outside to ear the engine working, I've let the engine warm and the then give a bit of throttle and the sound was there again :cry I've took the bike for quick around the block and feel that above maybe 3000 rpm the sound was there and feel a lack of power, does anyone can give me a clue, hope I didn´t break the engine :( , at 1500/2000 rpm ear a tick, tick tick but higher rpm the sound changes and it turns louder,

    :becca
  7. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    Overhead cam engines run with little to no oil almost always damage the cams and rockers first.

    The noise you're hearing is most likely hugely increased clearance between the valves and the rockers caused by accelerated wear on the cams.

    Hate to be the bearer of bad news but oil is the life-blood of your engine....without it bad things happen.

    You can check this fairly easily by pulling the valve covers off and having a look at the cams.
  8. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Not good. Not good. No oil and motor noise = trouble and $$$. On most motors the clearance between the piston and head is less than 1 mm. Sometimes the first noise you hear is the carbon on the top of the piston hitting the head when the connecting rod bearing starts to go. It could be valve train, clutch or some other noise, but I would not run it any more before you find the problem or it could cause bigger trouble.
  9. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    A while back a inmate here purchased a TA from another local inmate, of course it was advertised as "excellent, well maintained condition".

    After the purchase he rode the bike directly to me to leave for service updating etc. The first thing I did before he left my shop was check the oil level, there was none on the oil stick and hardly any when the stick was screwed in. I have seen more than a few Transalps with low oil, knowing how to correctly check the oil level seems to be part of the problem.

    Here is a view of what all needs to stay clean and be well oiled.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    This good engine was ruined by someone who welded on the counter shaft sprocket which had to be cut off.


    [​IMG]


    Once the counter shaft sprocket was removed the reason for welding it on was revealed. The splines are damaged due most likely to over a tightened chain, another common error that I have seen far more than you would think.

    [​IMG]




    .
  10. Crash48

    Crash48 Secular Lord

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    [​IMG]

    Not sure if these are the original CDIs or how long the SGH Defense has been in place... but I keep a new CDI handy - just in case.
  11. Santa

    Santa Focused on the Future

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    So, watch those chains guys.

    We need a little PSA here, someone with a stock TA should post a photo of what correct chain tension looks like.
    I cannot as my bike has the AT swingarm.
  12. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    I agree, maybe we should create a top 10 list of the most important things one should not ignore on a Transalp.

    Page 3-11 in the Honda service manual, 1 3/8" - 1 3/4" chain slack free play. I can't image not bothering to learn the basics.

    One thing I don't agree with in the Honda service schedule chart is to change oil and filter every 8,000 miles. Like Ray said it is the life blood of a engine, I'm a bit OCD about this sort if thing and change it every 2,000-2,500 miles.
  13. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    One of the common traits of this engine that seems to run throughout many threads and user sites and shared experiences is:

    (a) Transalp engines will use some oil if run consistently over 5000 rpm for long periods of time.

    (b) As the engine hours/mileage increases, this oil use also increases.

    The engine seems to run well and consistently well into high hours and it's only at the very end of service life that oil consumption reaches unbearable levels.

    This means, therefore, that one is well advised to check oil levels when on long trips with many miles at highway, motorway, freeway speeds.

    - and -

    One should check oil levels frequently in high hour/miles engines.....yes, even if you change the oil at frequent periods.
  14. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    I don't see anything in the design that looks odd. Have any of you guys figured out why this happens more than other motors or does it ?
  15. Cruz

    Cruz Lost but laughing.

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    The tappet cover gasket on the rear cylinder of my 87 600 has developed a slight weep/leak of oil that is slowly becoming worse.

    Do I have to drop the motor from the frame to change the cover gasket or can it be done in the frame?

    Thanks. :ear
  16. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    See this link below, page 713 post # 10690.

    Depending on how bad the leak is you can also try a very thin washer commonly used for water faucet valve repairs. Typically they are brass and measure around .020 to .025 thousanths thick. Place each of them under the two valve cover screws ( IF 87's use the same screw design). This will allow the screws to compress the valve gasket the same thickness as the washer before the screw shoulders against their stops. I would use the thinest washer you can use to stop the leak.

    The valve cover screw design has a shoulder that bottoms out and limits the compression of the valve cover gasket while being able to be tightened firmly. The washers in effect make the shoulder length slightly shorter which requires the valve cover gasket to compress more before the screw hits the stop. Remember you are compressing the valve cover gasket and you can cut the gasket if it is compressed too much by using too thick of a washer.

    I have found that most all leaking valve ( tappet) cover gaskets are still soft and flexable enough to compress some more and this should stop the leak or at least reduce it. I just go ahead and change them for new gaskets but I think this works to, at least it's worth trying and may buy you more time before needing to replace them.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39170&page=713

    [​IMG]
  17. potski

    potski Wiley Wanderer

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    Hi guys...
    A think a top modification would be a kick start.

    IMO all ADV type bikes should come with both electric and kick...guess it's possibly beyond the engineering realms of us normal bods on here..
    A couple of times I really could have done with one; flat batery no way of a push start...... guess we have all been there.

    Cheers
    Potski :freaky
  18. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    Cruz, Sorry, I failed to answer your question!

    I see no reason why you need to drop the engine. Not being exactly familiar with the 87 engine differences I am guessing the cooling hose tubes mounted on the heads are in the same location. You will not be able to remove the rear valve cover without removing the water tube. The front valve cover can be removed without removing the front water tube but only if you pull the front coils, ( as best as I remember).
  19. Crash48

    Crash48 Secular Lord

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    [​IMG]
    Installed new chain and sprockets with slack at 1.5 inches... photo after 600kms - bike on sidestand.
    jerrekan likes this.
  20. Cruz

    Cruz Lost but laughing.

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    Thanks for the excellent info and pics Mas.