Show us your TransAlp modifications!

Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.

  1. Blackbert

    Blackbert Factory Rambler

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,068
    Location:
    Belgium, wrong side of the river
    I have an RD03 skidplate on mine. A piece of 4mm flat mounted on the front of the frame, 2 holes for M6 bolts with nyloc nuts on the inside mount the plate using the OEM points.
    I drilled 2 holes in the rear bottom part and used 2 countersunk bolts to mount the plate to the frametubes, using 2 of these.
    [​IMG]

    It has taken a few beatings, never moved, no damage to the mounting points.
  2. locorider

    locorider Loco, pero no estúpido!

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,769
    Location:
    Puerto Rico, U.S.A.
    You can build your own bashplate...

    [​IMG]

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  3. locorider

    locorider Loco, pero no estúpido!

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,769
    Location:
    Puerto Rico, U.S.A.
    Love the crate! Is it yours? Of course, needless to say that the bike is awesome!:evil

  4. Belgian Waffles

    Belgian Waffles Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    875
    Location:
    Green. Wet. Oregon.
  5. Bonnie & Clyde

    Bonnie & Clyde Wishing I was riding RTW

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,312
    Location:
    Gardnerville NV
    That eBay chain and sprocket set is cheap and maybe too cheap. A good chain alone should cost around $100. Having seen front spline drive sprocket wear I will only get oem front sprockets the rear and chain just good quality but dosnt have to be oem
  6. WeeBee

    WeeBee Proud Deplorable

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,684
    Location:
    Windsor, CA
  7. danyila

    danyila Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2011
    Oddometer:
    86
    Location:
    Hungary
  8. mgorman

    mgorman Crashing since 1964

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    6,145
    Location:
    NEO
    Couldn't get the links to show so I edited them. My TA plate is cracked and getting fugly. Need something Heavy like this.

  9. Kamala

    Kamala Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2005
    Oddometer:
    13,125
    Location:
    Nashoba Valley
    You will need something (Clutch basket Tool, Pennys, Wood) to keep the basket from rotating to get the nut off but other than that its pretty easy. BTW, more often than not all you need for a slipping clutch are new clutch springs. If you are replacing them (as you should) its worth while to see if just those alone solves the slipping problem.
  10. Transalp1999

    Transalp1999 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2012
    Oddometer:
    13
    Location:
    SVG, EWR
    I put a new National Cycle windscreen on this evening and put new windscreen screws in (Since the originals were in rough shape). Problem is the darn things don't tighten down like they should. They just spin. I've tried grabbing the back with a par of needle-nose pliers but no luck. Think it's just cheap rubber that's not compressing to form a seal?? Or what??

    Cheers!
  11. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,452
    Location:
    Arlington, Texas
    I'm guessing these are what are called "well nuts". A flanged rubber tube with a brass threaded insert in one end. I had some that the threaded part turned in the rubber. I carefully used a little super glue on the metal part and quickly reinserted in the rubber. Worked good. Try to keep it straight, and check the threads on the screws. Or get new well nuts at a hardware store or bike shop.
  12. mgorman

    mgorman Crashing since 1964

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    6,145
    Location:
    NEO
    Make sure the new screws are threaded all the way up, maybe you are running out of threads before it gets tight or they are too long?
  13. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,701
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    The wellnut rubber end should be a very snug fit in the hole. I have to use a bit of ArmorAll to lube them up a bit before they will pop in.

    If they just fall into the hole they are the wrong size

    They also have to be long enough to allow the inside bit to deform slightly (like a rivet) to hold the screen tightly against the frame.
  14. danyila

    danyila Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2011
    Oddometer:
    86
    Location:
    Hungary
    This is a very robust.
  15. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2004
    Oddometer:
    749
    Location:
    God's Own County
  16. DualDog

    DualDog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    225
    Location:
    Galesburg, IL
    My 1989 Transalp is leaking from front shock and boots are falling apart and has had quite a bit of sag in front end for awhile.
    Getting ready to order some Progressive Springs.
    Also getting some Honda Fork Seals and Dust Covers.
    Question. What is a good fork boot to use? I put Daystar brand ones on my KLR650 and have been happy. Was wondering if anybody is using these and if so, what size. I have seen some sites say the size 58 is what is needed and others say size 69 is what is needed and Daystar website does not list what will fit this cycle. Any suggestions on what size or suggestion on another brand would be helpful (or a brand to avoid).

    I am wondering if any special tools and/or equipement will be needed to do this.

    Also, any help or suggestions here would be appreciated on how to perform this job.
  17. Rob 110

    Rob 110 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    51
    Location:
    UK, OK?
    hi been lurking for a while and reading up on what to do!

    bought this 99 bike with 30,000miles, ex Police bike for £800
    [​IMG]

    got 87 CR500 cartridge forks and RD03 swinger, plus '83 CR250 shocker, so it'll all happen slowly:D
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    managed to get a bit done today!
    [​IMG]

    sold loads on ebay, fairing, bars, etc for over £300!!!!

    so bought loads too
    [​IMG]

    the transalp exhaust was rotten and i'd always planned for it to go, bit when i removed it actually broke off from the header!
    [​IMG]
    especially pleased with the replacement titanium Gixxer pipe for £11.20 delivered! half the weight too at only 3kg

    talking of weightloss i've actually taken 23.5kg off it!
    but replacements for some parts only adding 3.8kg, but fairing and a new headlamp will add to this

    got the CR forks/XR yokes in today, had to drill and tap some lock stops, but fairly straightforward.
    Pleased to find the Transalp progressive springs were longer than the CR ones!
    But removing the CR spacer makes em fit with a bit of preload. Trying 5w oil and 120mm air gap.
    Oil removed was pretty clean for the age of the forks.
    [​IMG]

    more next week and over chrimbo
  18. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,701
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    As with any fork swap, you'll want to be certain that the front wheel/tire/fender does not compress so far that it contacts the triple clamp or the frame downtube or crashbars.

    Remove the springs and raise the wheel until the fork stops going up...see if anything gets in the way of the tire.
  19. Rob 110

    Rob 110 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    51
    Location:
    UK, OK?
    thanks
    ooops, had read about it and forgot too:rofl
    i've ditched the crashbars so no probs there
    the 87 CR500 forks are apparently same as later XR6 cartridge forks, so clearance should be ok:/

    its going to have a one off fairing made (bodged) for a rally-alp look, eventually;)
  20. ferretface

    ferretface Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    57
    Location:
    Wellington, NZ
    I'm currently riding at around 2500-3000m and have noticed the lack of power (even worse when running high octane fuel) and I was wondered if anyone has tried any quick fixes to make it run better without messing around with re-jetting?

    Another guy on a KLR650 has been riding along with me and the "altitude sickness" doesn't appear to affect the Kwakas as much. Maybe something to do with the vacuum type carb on the Transalp - not really sure......

    It's okay to re-jet for long term use but I won't be riding at altitude all the time so I need another solution.

    I'm going to be heading to higher altitude soon and was thinking of drilling some holes in the airbox (airfilter side) and sticking some rubber grommets in the holes and unplugging them when the bike starts to struggle for air.

    Maybe someone on here has another idea or suggestion before I start making holes in the airbox?

    Cheers
    Dan