Show us your TransAlp modifications!

Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.

  1. Transalp1999

    Transalp1999 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2012
    Oddometer:
    13
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    SVG, EWR
    I put a new National Cycle windscreen on this evening and put new windscreen screws in (Since the originals were in rough shape). Problem is the darn things don't tighten down like they should. They just spin. I've tried grabbing the back with a par of needle-nose pliers but no luck. Think it's just cheap rubber that's not compressing to form a seal?? Or what??

    Cheers!
  2. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,937
    Location:
    DFW TX
    I'm guessing these are what are called "well nuts". A flanged rubber tube with a brass threaded insert in one end. I had some that the threaded part turned in the rubber. I carefully used a little super glue on the metal part and quickly reinserted in the rubber. Worked good. Try to keep it straight, and check the threads on the screws. Or get new well nuts at a hardware store or bike shop.
  3. mgorman

    mgorman Crashing since 1964

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,333
    Location:
    Massillon, Ohio
    Make sure the new screws are threaded all the way up, maybe you are running out of threads before it gets tight or they are too long?
  4. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,116
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    The wellnut rubber end should be a very snug fit in the hole. I have to use a bit of ArmorAll to lube them up a bit before they will pop in.

    If they just fall into the hole they are the wrong size

    They also have to be long enough to allow the inside bit to deform slightly (like a rivet) to hold the screen tightly against the frame.
  5. danyila

    danyila Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2011
    Oddometer:
    74
    Location:
    Hungary
    This is a very robust.
  6. ChrisUK

    ChrisUK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2004
    Oddometer:
    599
    Location:
    God's Own County
  7. DualDog

    DualDog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    179
    Location:
    Galesburg, IL
    My 1989 Transalp is leaking from front shock and boots are falling apart and has had quite a bit of sag in front end for awhile.
    Getting ready to order some Progressive Springs.
    Also getting some Honda Fork Seals and Dust Covers.
    Question. What is a good fork boot to use? I put Daystar brand ones on my KLR650 and have been happy. Was wondering if anybody is using these and if so, what size. I have seen some sites say the size 58 is what is needed and others say size 69 is what is needed and Daystar website does not list what will fit this cycle. Any suggestions on what size or suggestion on another brand would be helpful (or a brand to avoid).

    I am wondering if any special tools and/or equipement will be needed to do this.

    Also, any help or suggestions here would be appreciated on how to perform this job.
  8. Rob 110

    Rob 110 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    41
    Location:
    UK, OK?
    hi been lurking for a while and reading up on what to do!

    bought this 99 bike with 30,000miles, ex Police bike for £800
    [​IMG]

    got 87 CR500 cartridge forks and RD03 swinger, plus '83 CR250 shocker, so it'll all happen slowly:D
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    managed to get a bit done today!
    [​IMG]

    sold loads on ebay, fairing, bars, etc for over £300!!!!

    so bought loads too
    [​IMG]

    the transalp exhaust was rotten and i'd always planned for it to go, bit when i removed it actually broke off from the header!
    [​IMG]
    especially pleased with the replacement titanium Gixxer pipe for £11.20 delivered! half the weight too at only 3kg

    talking of weightloss i've actually taken 23.5kg off it!
    but replacements for some parts only adding 3.8kg, but fairing and a new headlamp will add to this

    got the CR forks/XR yokes in today, had to drill and tap some lock stops, but fairly straightforward.
    Pleased to find the Transalp progressive springs were longer than the CR ones!
    But removing the CR spacer makes em fit with a bit of preload. Trying 5w oil and 120mm air gap.
    Oil removed was pretty clean for the age of the forks.
    [​IMG]

    more next week and over chrimbo
  9. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,116
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    As with any fork swap, you'll want to be certain that the front wheel/tire/fender does not compress so far that it contacts the triple clamp or the frame downtube or crashbars.

    Remove the springs and raise the wheel until the fork stops going up...see if anything gets in the way of the tire.
  10. Rob 110

    Rob 110 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    41
    Location:
    UK, OK?
    thanks
    ooops, had read about it and forgot too:rofl
    i've ditched the crashbars so no probs there
    the 87 CR500 forks are apparently same as later XR6 cartridge forks, so clearance should be ok:/

    its going to have a one off fairing made (bodged) for a rally-alp look, eventually;)
  11. ferretface

    ferretface Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    57
    Location:
    Wellington, NZ
    I'm currently riding at around 2500-3000m and have noticed the lack of power (even worse when running high octane fuel) and I was wondered if anyone has tried any quick fixes to make it run better without messing around with re-jetting?

    Another guy on a KLR650 has been riding along with me and the "altitude sickness" doesn't appear to affect the Kwakas as much. Maybe something to do with the vacuum type carb on the Transalp - not really sure......

    It's okay to re-jet for long term use but I won't be riding at altitude all the time so I need another solution.

    I'm going to be heading to higher altitude soon and was thinking of drilling some holes in the airbox (airfilter side) and sticking some rubber grommets in the holes and unplugging them when the bike starts to struggle for air.

    Maybe someone on here has another idea or suggestion before I start making holes in the airbox?

    Cheers
    Dan
  12. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,937
    Location:
    DFW TX
    From my experience in trips to CO mountains ( 8k ft - 13k ft ) every summer for 30+ yrs. In the 70s and 80s on the old trials and enduro bikes, carbs required dropping the main jet size quite a bit. With the newer bikes with the CV (vacuum) carbs not so much. Each bike is different...KLX300 with CV carb needed a much smaller main jet. Don't remember exactly how much but was supprised how much it took. KLR with CV carb needed very little reduction, 150 to 148. DR350 with CV carb none. And really ran great. All had "opened" air boxes. XR650R with non CV carb went from 150 to 125 main. Don't know how much air box mod will help. You could lean idle fuel screw ( turn in ), might help idle but probably won't effect mid and high rpms much. Some people have reported no problems at altitude. I haven't had my TA up there yet ( next summer :evil ), so I'm also interested to hear what jetting and mods the Colorado TA guys are running. If you're not getting knock or hot running, lower octain gas might help. Hard to tell with the alcohol blend gas we have now. Try to find non blend gas. Makes 3 to 5 mpg difference in my car. Not much way around some loss of power though, short of a turbo.
  13. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,977
    Location:
    Piedmont region NC
    Have you checked your air filter lately, is it dirty? Rather than modifiy the air box you might try a less restricted air filter element. I'm not a big fan of K&N filters but that might help or better yet do the "Ladder" air filter mod that has been discussed in the past.

    Without going into details you basically remove all the paper from the filter frame and replace it with a UNI filter or like I did replace it with the foam element from a NX125 filter. It will breath much easier.

    The mod is not something that you can easily do, especially without a dremel tool but you only need to modify the filter frame once and then you have a washable foam filter.

    See post 11484-11490 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=16069437&highlight=nx125+filter#post16069437
  14. partireper.it

    partireper.it Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    Florence, Italy
  15. ric678

    ric678 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2010
    Oddometer:
    866
    Location:
    WNY, where it no longer snows
    Holy Hell, could that pic be any bigger!!
  16. mgorman

    mgorman Crashing since 1964

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,333
    Location:
    Massillon, Ohio
    I had always heard the CV's weren't as finicky as normal carbs but I've never
    been above 7000 feet to know the difference. Has the slide ever been drilled? Some people drill the slides with a slightly larger hole to aide in throttle response and performance. I wonder if too big of a hole may have been drilled that would cause the slide to not have enough vaccume to raise it?

    From what I understood is Octane resists predetonation and helps high compression motors run cooler. So, I took some premium gas, 93 and a can of 87. Rode the XR with the cheap stuff, drained it and put in the good stuff then back to the cheap stuff. The bike ran better on the cheap stuff. If it had been a high compression motor, it could damage it but the XR and my '89 TA are far from that.

    If it weren't such a pain to drain the TA tank, I'd try it on that bike too.
  17. ferretface

    ferretface Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    57
    Location:
    Wellington, NZ
    I haven't played with the mixture but think it is running quite lean already as I get around 50mpg with pillion and full luggage. Might be worth looking at though! I'm in South America at the moment so god knows what blend the TA is getting. When we rode through Colorado, I always used the lowest octane available - think it might have been 83/85 but seemed to run fine.

    I'm not a fan of K&N either but I like the idea of the foam filter mod. I'll see if I can source the bits required and report back. Thanks for the link!

    I've got a set of carbs from a '93 Transalp but I am using the vacuum sliders from the original '87 carb which are made of plastic instead of metal so maybe that has something to do with it. I don't think it has been modified apart from that though.
  18. Dr E

    Dr E Chasing after theory

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2010
    Oddometer:
    143
    Location:
    Pacific Northwest
    Before I get into my build, I wanted to update everyone on the resource guide that I said I was putting together from this thread. The paper is together and is now being reviewed by several folks from the forum whose input we all appreciate. As it stands now it is over 400 pages (text and pictures). My plan is to post it up as a PDF file for folks to download. Additionally, I view the paper as a "GROUP WORK IN PROGRESS" and anyone who would like to add write ups to the paper, to please send me their input (with pictures) and it will be added.

    One of the biggest issues I found in putting this together is when ADVRider updated how pictures are handled, we lost a major amount of data when the earlier pictures that were hosted on the site server were deleted. Additionally, where noted I have indicated who posted the information that is quoted in the paper. If you find that you want to change, update or correct anything that is listed, please send me your updates and we will get it posted.

    I realize that until you see the paper there is not much to add... My plan is as soon as I have the reviewers comments I will get it up for everyone!


    Now, onto my build...

    I picked 89 Honda Transalp earlier this year from Seattle Used Bikes as my friend owns this shop and he new I had been looking for one of these for years. There are a lot of dual sport rides that I have had on the back burner for years and with the rebuild of this bike I am hoping to achieve many of them.

    [​IMG]

    Well, the bike when I put it in the studio it was running great, but with any bike that is 24 years old there is only so much trust you can put in seemingly good looking parts. After two months of ordering parts and pieces both from US suppliers and European vendors, I can finally begin the tear down on the bike. A major thanks for parts and pieces that are almost impossible to find go to my friends MAS336 and LADDER106. Mark and Ray are very much a part of this build as are many of you. Your input over the last 9 years has built a wonderful resource for anyone wanting to build one of these bikes...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    To date I have been able to do the following: Suspension upgraded: front forks are from an XR650 (rebuilt) and the rear shock is an XR250 with the spring upgraded to Spring rate: 11.5kg / mm. This will place the bike seat at just under 41" which is exactly what I wanted. Front and rear wheels are completely rebuilt, rear brake converted from push to pull (thanks Locorider!) that was a great idea. If you are sticking with drum brakes, this is one of the simplest mods to protect your rear linkage. The drum brake cam works exactly the same in either the push or pull configuration so all you have to do is move the lever.

    Something else I was able to do tonight was the blending of a XR450 rear fender. The previous owner for some reason sawed off the end of the fender leaving the bike with little rear wheel protection. Since I decided to go with a high mount fender, I was able to order all the plastics for an XR450 from EBay for $20.00 and when I started looking at the fender I found that cutting at the bolt hole location gives you a fender that can be slipped onto the existing TA fender and be attached (I will post pics on that as well). With everything, as I progress I will add more images.

    Other areas that I will be replacing or upgrading are:
    Carbs rebuilt (new diaphragms in hand as well as the slow 40 jet upgrade)
    Clutch rebuild
    Air box upgraded (Rays mod)
    Engine mounts upgraded (Rays mod)
    Top end rebuilt
    Rays optical fuel gauge
    All electrical connection cleaned and upgraded
    Swing arm stripped, coated and bearings replaced
    Brakes upgraded
    New handle bar
    Highway Dirt Bike guards (you need to see these things: http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=billet_hg_7%2F8
    Handle bar switches replaced
    PIAA lights upgraded
    XR450 high mount front fender
    XR450 rear fender

    It will probably take till the end of January to finish the build...funny how all the parts in bags make the build seem so far from the finish...but that's have the fun!

    When I first started my build I wanted to do a TA to AT conversion, but than after some wonderful conversations with folks here I have found that what I really wanted was a blend.

    As Robin said, of all the bikes I have built this one seems to multiply the number of parts as they come off.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In closing I want to wish every single person here a MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!:freaky

    I consider myself lucky to have found this group and look forward to where the new year is going to take all of us!
  19. happyclam

    happyclam Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    169
    Location:
    Trapped in Maryland
    Dr. E . WOW! You make what i'm trying to do childsplay. Can't wait for your pdf file. My resurrected Ta is still coming along well.Yours looks better than mine before you started the build.I will ad pics...I promise, tried tonight but photobucket said it didn't know me.Mine was crashed and left for dead for 10 + years. So far...xrl complete front end, new tires, boiled carb twice, rebuilt/repaired back side of platics, alot of scrubbing/touchup, rear shock with modified spacer, and the list goes on.... I debated selling my vstrom to pay for a lot of well needed parts...but i love the wee too, modern reliable. I'll just have to be patient. Anyway, I had a question for you gurus. I did the 40 jet change, cause she took forever to warm up. Now my choke doesn't work right. I know it functions, just doesn't idle. I drilled out the pilots and have played with 1 turn out to 2.5 turns with everything in between. Still no easy start. Once warm up shes fine, just needs throttle to get her going a bit. I 've searched and searched.Is it because i didn't shim my needles? What does raising the needle do to the mixture? Thanks for any advice. The Myans were wrong, go figure.
  20. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,937
    Location:
    DFW TX
    If it set up for ten years it could have something really stopped up. But it sounds like you had it running. Check the idle air jets and be sure the choke plungers are closing all the way. Also check the sync on the carbs, and vacuum leaks. Mine idles best with the mixture/volume screws out ~ 4 turns out. Raising the needles shouldn't effect the idle much/any...makes coming on the mid range circuit a little richer. My carbs are 100% stock...runs perfect.