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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.
Starting to miss the Falcon's horsepower already?
No, that is something I can get a fix on anytime (there's no snow). Just really day dreaming...
Now, in reality, I am close to having the TA wrapped up but I realize I need to upgrade an upgraded spring I have on my rear cr250 shock. With most of the bits and pieces it is now apparent that the spring is grossly underrated for the bike. So I am working with Mark at Hyperco springs and we are designing a new spring to accurately match the bikes load and ride. In going with the spring value of 11.5kg/mm as has been previously suggested in this thread, it gives a very mushy feeling to it and compresses to near 90% shock travel.
I plan on having the spring ordered by tomorrow and hopefully in house before the end of the month. I know I could go with a Wilber or other shock but sometimes I get a stubborn streak and push through till I get something done I planned on doing.
Oh well, back to the daily grind...
Hopefully Lomax won't mind. Side by side views of my TA and his (relatively) recent modified TA.
That thread went to Hell fast.
As much as I like the @'s looks, $9500 is a lot of $ for a 21 yo bike. A Triumph Tiger 800XC would cost a bit more and not look near as cool but would have nearly twice the hp, a six speed gearbox, and tubeless tires if you spring for the Explorer XC.
Much rather have that than a BMW but yes, the price kills it for me.
Yeah I had to bite my lip on that thread and ignore it. The guy is dreaming if he thinks it's worth that kinda money
On another topic.....
Has anyone been able to source a replacement bush/cushion for the rear suspension link on the transalp?
Honda part number 52486-MM9-000 - It looks to have been discontinued.
Are you certain you're looking at the correct part.
This is for the first model TAs ('87 I think) that used bushings rather than needle bearings in the suspension linkage. (note the grease fittings in the drawing).
If you really need that part, it would not be too awfully difficult to make on a lathe.
If you do have a bike with bushings you could likely update to the needle bearing bits without too much difficulty.
Spring is creeping up so I feel the need to get the Transalp tuned and ready to go any day now!
My bike has a poorly installed Supertrapp, stock filter, and seems quite loud. I believe the bike runs rich in general. There is a hefty deposit of black sooty crap at the end of the muffler on my turn signal and nearby parts and my mileage is right around 39-40mpg. So what I would like to do is tune the bike and maybe re-jet it so that it runs cleaner, quieter, and maybe even with better fuel economy. Part of this tuning will include a valve clearance check, new plugs, etc.
The exhaust questions first:
-The Supertrapp isn't well connected to the header pipe. I tried using the clamp that comes with the stock muffler to tighten the connection, but I still feel exhaust leaking out of that spot. Should there be a gasket at the muffler-head pipe connection? There is one in the parts fiche for the stock muffler.
-I am currently running 6 discs on the Supertrapp and am okay with that volume. Quieter would be even better. I think it probably needs a repack. What is a good source for packing material?
-I haven't torn into the carbs yet to see what's in there, but would folks like to suggest a baseline jetting setup for a Supertrapp and stock air filter? I find the bike to be powerful enough so I'm looking mostly for smooth running.
-I keep finding posts about these filters somewhere near the carbs that tend to vaporize into dust. I am almost certain this has happened on my bike, given its previous owners' care. I can't find these on the parts fiche, though? Does anybody have a part number?
-Where do I get the jets? The Honda parts diagrams only list stock sizes and I don't know enough about them to order otherwise.
Any other suggestions about carb maintenance while I'm in there?
Two unrelated questions:
Has anyone used Dirtskins in place of fork gaitors? Mine are rubbish and look terrible, so I was considering Dirtskins as a cheap alternative.
Also, I'm having trouble identifying footpegs people are using on their Transalps. I don't like the rubber covered stock ones but I also don't want to spend $165 for fancy Pivot Pegs. What other models use similar pegs?
Yep it's the 87 model. The bush looks fine (no corrosion) but it's not as snug a fit as the other bushings in the linkage. I'll look into the needle bearings option - thanks!
Yes but I don't know how the ST pipe was designed. This part is still available.
Any decent shop should have packing material. Use the stuff specifically for motorcycle silencers.
Most TAs seem to tolerate different silencers without a jetting change. They may be jetted a bit rich to begin with or - more likely - the restriction if any is on the intake side. Carlos is using a GSXR can, I'm running a DRZ 400 can...there are many others.
If your bike has had poor air filter maintenance (check to make certain the air filter is sealing on the right side of the airbox) you might find your best improvement to be replacing the jet needles and needle jets in the carbs. If there are obvious wear spots on the needles, the bike will run rich. Replacement is the only real option.
These are just a small rectangle of grey foam. I'd never pay for a Honda part here. Just go the the local hardware store, buy a green foam air filter for a lawnmower for a few dollars. Get out the scissors and make your own foam bits. Oil the foam lightly.
The rubber inserts can be removed by removing the 6mm bolt on the bottom center. You can easily weld a "u" shaped extension onto the stock pegs to make them wider.
Thanks for the help, Ladder. I now see where the foam goes. It's called the "sub air filter" on the parts diagram. Much clearer now.
I see that the muffler packing material is your regular old fiberglass. I was bouncing around Supertrapp's site and saw some choices they had that seemed very expensive so I thought there was something special about it. Not so, though.
You may be right about needing new jet needles. I haven't torn into the bike yet, but I'd like to line up some parts so I can get the job done in a weekend. Honda doesn't sell the needles anymore. Would the next best thing be to get an aftermarket jetting kit that includes them? I have heard mixed reviews of Dynojet's kits. There's another supplier on ebay called Sigma, but their kits look very similar.
Also, these suppliers don't seem to include any idle jets. Where could I find a #40 idle jet if I wanted to replace my originals?
Ray is a know it all and I don't mean that in a sarcastic way either. He and a few others here are part of an elite group of walking/riding encyclopedias. Any good bike shop will have those jets.
Search thread for pilot jet:
#40 pilot jet Honda US part # 99103-427-0400
Honda part # is there and other aftermarket purchase locations.
I would be shocked if the stock needles are worn:eek1. On older high mileage bikes stuck choke and choke cables (enrichener valve) and damaged carbs diaphragms far more common.
IMS Super Stock, work well for me, a small amount of grinding is necessary IIRC
I have the dirt skins on my xr250 also. They work fine. Mainly for looks. I think regular fork boots would keep out more mud, but I try to stay out of the mud.
Well, after going with a rebuilt CR250 shock and heavier spring I have come to the decision that while I like the ride height, I should have listened to those that said the ride may be mushy. That was an understatement as the bike basically takes the spring to 60% compression when allowed to sit on the shock and ends up lower that she sat on the blown OEM shock!
So, with my first thought was looking for a new upgraded spring for the 250 shock, but the more I dug and the more I read on new shocks, I decided that a new shock was needed. I did look at Wilbur and a number of others, but in the end, it came down to customer service and help and the folks at EPM are going to build me a new shock based on the TA specs, but the 250 length and travel. The new travel will be about 1 1/2 inches longer than the OEM. New travel length will be 4". I should have it in three weeks, but before they construct it, they will have engineering review my specs and give me a call before fabrication. Total bill is only $620 delivered.
I will post pics as soon as I have them...otherwise the build continues!
i got these from China for £15, only took 9 days to come
http://jetsrus.com/ has the #40 slow jets you're looking for. I just bought some and they did the trick. About $7 bucks each.
Team Shed Racing presents.............
fairing is 2mm HDPE about £5 for 1000x500mm sheet, I only used 2.
cut with jigsaw or tinsnips and bent with a heatgun
testing tomorrow with my mate on his TE250 :/
Well, it was a nice day outside but I was able to stay focused on the bike and get a few more things knocked out on the bike. A friend of mine had told me about a company called Highway Dirt Bikes and their handle bar guards. http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/ The pair were only $149 and $24/mirror. What I like most about these is the mirrors hide away when you are off road or going through brush and don't want to risk smacking your mirrors. Their customer service is incredible. When I ordered the "build your own set", if you don't call them before you will be sent bars that are a tad short for the TA. When I sent them a note asking if they could help, a second package showed up on my door step with new bars that were longer and a great fit (no cost!).
What makes these really nice is the top place has the bars attached to the bike rather then the handle bar themselves. Also, you get two sets of wind guards (one black and one white).
Here you can see how the mirrors open and store away.
Here is an underside shot so you can see the bar.
Here is the LiMaCap-2 I was able to order. Sorry the image is so off. What a nice easy mod.
One of the things I was able to purchase as a set was an XR450 plastics. This is the Acerbis high mount fender that came with everything. Ebay find ($25.00)!
Couple more things to show, I upgraded my OEM brake line to a braided steel. You may wonder why I went with a straight connection out...it ended up giving me cleaner install and it placed the brake line in the position I wanted for directional control and positioning.
With all the peg discussion above, here are the IMS pegs I went:
This was a bit of fun to make. I have always been dissatisfied with OEM kickstands and while I had considered welding an extension on my OEM stand...but, I have been making billet kickstands for a number of years for sport bikes...so here is the TA version:
To close out today's post, this is my Supertrapp installed. Wow, talk about being caked with carbon. I ended up power brushing all of the 8 plates and to add a little bit of performance while maintaining the spark arrester set-up. I placed a small lock washer between each of the plates. When I first got the bike, I noticed that the exhaust was very restricted as the plates were almost touching thus restricting the exhaust more than I would like.