Show us your TransAlp modifications!

Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.

  1. Thunder Dan

    Thunder Dan I don't like wallabies...

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2008
    Oddometer:
    897
    Location:
    Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia

    G'day Cruz,

    The TransAlp was sold in Australia from '87 - '88. I've a Australian Compliance version of each. The stocker I'm slowly assembling is an '87 model. My modded ride is the '88 version.

    Clutch Lever is: 53178-MG7-003 (correct per Ray's reply);
    Brake Lever: 53175-MM9-006.

    These numbers should be on Honda Australia's system, as I bought one of each lever several years ago. Not sure if they're still available.

    Possibly the reason they cannot find parts listings for the early TransAlp is that they need to look on a Microfiche. If they're a Honda dealer - they should know that. If there is some 'young know all' behind the counter (apologies for the generalisation..), then I'd suggest either they don't know how to operate a microfiche reader or they cannot be bothered. Either way, if they don't pick up their act - make a complaint to Honda in Melbourne.

    Some years ago I bought a copy of the microfiche and had it scanned and put onto a CD-ROM. This was done in Sydney for a small fortune. PM me your address if you would like me to mail you a copy. Then you can just go in to the shop and tell them the numbers or quote the numbers over the phone. Saves everyone time - most importantly yourself :wink:.
    I'd recommend printing out the manual & putting into a folder.

    Occassionally you may find they advise "sorry that number doesn't work". I then take the manual in and stick it in their face and say - "why not, here it is in the Honda manual". I've got the local dealer trained. I went to order a new Main Harness for the stock build up. I got the 'sorry, that number doesn't work story'. I took the manual in and suggested that they contact Honda Melbourne to see what's going on. After about 1/2hr standing there, they got off the phone and advised that Honda would recognise the number - just had never had one ordered in Australia, ever - so it was never originally put on the parts system. About 2 weeks later the harness arrived from Japan to the dealer. :D

    Anyway, just don't put up with any crap service. If they can't get motivated to help - elevate it with a complaint to Honda.

    Cheers,

    Dan. :D
  2. Cruz

    Cruz Lost but laughing.

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    8,523
    Location:
    Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
    Thanks Dan. Yes, the said spare parts person each time did happen to be a younger variety. I am also wondering if it caused problems as they asked for the ID number off of the bike to search with? Being an imported Jap model may have returned nothing.

    The one I spoke to today and showed on my IPad the link from Ladder was my age and showed a bit more interest and came back about ten minutes later with two clutch levers and a front brake lever of MCS brand, all up cost was $30 for the three.

    I will grab a copy off of you and PM sent.

    Thanks everyone.
  3. Santa

    Santa Focused on the Future

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2001
    Oddometer:
    1,468
    Yes, that is the Lynx fairing.
    It fit pretty well although I had to fab an upper bracket as I have different upper triple.
    So far I am very happy although it was expensive.
    Good wind protection, a largish dash that fits my GPS, ICO and acouple of other parts.
    The lamps are Hella brand with HID projector low beam and Halogen high beam.

    I wanted to ask if anyone has recomendations for rad shrouds and maybe pics?
    I see that UFO sells the 89 CR 125 shroud in the US.
    Anybody have a pic of them on a TA?
  4. AppFan

    AppFan Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    761
    Location:
    Concord NC
  5. showkey

    showkey Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,094
    Location:
    Wausau
  6. Dr E

    Dr E Chasing after theory

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2010
    Oddometer:
    143
    Location:
    Pacific Northwest
    Well after 3 weeks of waiting I finally got my new shock from Klaus...a new Hyperpro 460 Emulsion Rear Shock.
    The shock is 1.5" (40 mm) longer then stock and has to have a travel of 4" (100mm). Top mounting eye is to be 1.06" (28 mm) wide
    Bottom clevis has inside width of 1.18" (30mm)
    Weight: 490 lbs on rear wheel
    Spring Color: Purple
    Cost delivered: $649.00

    When I first started this build, I was going to try a CR250 shock rebuilt with a spring value of 11.5 kg/mm and an increased length of 40mm. All things were good after the shock rebuild EXCEPT when the bike was allowed to site on the shock...it bottomed out on just the bike weight alone. This was not good.

    After reading about how Klaus took good care of Ray, I decided to give them a call. Three weeks after my call the new shock showed up and it delivers everything I wanted: ride height is 15" to bottom of engine; seat height 41". Overall lift was an additional 7.5". Here are a few comparison shots of the shocks I have been working with: CR250/ TA OEM/ Hyperpro

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    A direct OEM to Hyperpro comparison:

    [​IMG]
  7. DualDog

    DualDog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    215
    Location:
    Galesburg, IL
    Have 89 Transalp. Fork boots are shot and oily. Ordered new progressive springs, boots and seals. Kinda new at this. Questions:

    Are any special tools needed to do this. Did some on KLR650 a few years back and was pretty straight forward but have heard special tools may be needed on these forks.

    Also what fluid is recommended and weight. Have heard to put in Automatic trans fluid but have heard otherwise also. If fork oil recommended weight. Mostly paved or gravel road riding. I weight 190. Mostly ride alone unless the Mrs. wants to come along which may add another 130 lbs.

    On progressive springs. Does anybody know if the tight wound end is installed up or down on these?

    Any help or recommendations would be appreciated.
  8. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,624
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    You'll need at least an impact wrench either electrical, pneumatic or manual (hit with a hammer)

    Here's the order of operations.
    Support the bike in some secure way to hold the front wheel off the ground.

    Remove the front wheel, fender and stamped fork brace.

    Then:
    1. Loosen the TOP triple clamp bolts ...ONLY the TOP bolts
    2. With the bottom triple clamp bolts still tight loosen the top fork caps 1/4 turn.
    3. Loosen the BOTTO< triple clamp bolts and slide the legs out of the clamps.
    4. Remove the top cap and pour the old fork oil out into a suitable container.
    5. If the fork oil was really dirty flush the fork leg with solvent. Pump the leg up and down with the spring out and the cap back on so you don't shoot dirty solvent about.
    6. Put the spring back in and the fork cap back on. Do NOT tighten the cap all the way.
    7. Here's the fun part. You will need an impact driver and a good TIGHT fitting allen socket. Be careful here since other owners may have already gotten this bolt a bit marfed up. Quality counts here. Make sure the allen is a tight secure fit into the bolt. It even helps to put a bit of valve grinding paste on the allen to make sure it gets a good bite into the bolt.
    8. Turn the fork leg upside-down. Use the impact wrench to loosen the bottom bolt. This bolt goes into the damper rod and it what holds the fork together. When you trigger the driver push down hard on the leg. You want to increase the spring tension here to prevent the damper rod from spinning inside the fork leg. If it spins you will not be able to remove the bolt.
    9. If you're using a manual impact driver (I do this alot) you have to time you strike on the driver with the downward push on the fork leg to compress the spring.
    10. OK, now the bolt is free, spin it out
    11. Remove the fork cap and spring
    12. Look down into the seal space and find the wire spring that holds the seal in place. Remove the wire spring.
    13. Use the upper fork tube like a slide-hammer. Pull it up sharply until it strikes the bottom of the seal. Repeat until the seal pops out of the fork leg. There will likely be one or two steel washers on top of the seal. Keep track of how they came out.
    !4. Inspect the insides and slider bushings. If the bushings are worn down into the copper (they should look dull silver) replacing the bushings would be smart at this point.

    Like they say, assembly is the reverse of the process.

    EXCEPT: You will have to seat the new seal in the fork leg.

    DO NOT try to do this with a screwdriver, chisel or punch. You will almost always destroy the seal.

    Borrow a seal driver from a shop, buy one or make one.

    You can make one easily by using a piece of 2 in. PVC pipe about 2 ft long.
    1. With a saw, split the tube lengthwise so you have 2 1/2 round pieces.
    2. Screw the fork leg back onto the damper rod. It doesn't have to be completely tightened yet, just snug.
    3. Lube or grease the seal lips lightly and slide the seal down over the fork tube.
    4. Push the seal down by hand as far into the fork leg as you can.
    5. Split the PVC and put the halves around the fork tube and the end down onto the seal.
    6. Using a hose clamp gently clamp the PVC together. Don't make it too tight because it still has to slide up and down the fork tube.
    7. Using the PVC as a slide-hammer, tap the seal down into the fork leg until you see the groove for the wire spring retainer.
    8. If you have to you can gently tap on the ends of the PVC to get the seal to set. Make sure you tap on both ends equally. You don't want the seal to cock sideways and bind as it goes down.

    ...............................

    Now reinstall the spring and fork cap to hold the damper rod in place while you tighten the bottom allen bolt. Just like you removed it pushing down on the fork leg. Sometimes just a dap of silicone seal on the washer for the bottom bolt is a good idea or insurance against leaks.

    ...........................

    Remove the spring (yes, again) and fill the leg with oil.

    Fill the fork about 6 in away from the top then GENTLY pump the leg up and down until all the air bubbles stop.

    Then adjust the fork oil level with the spring out and the fork tube pushed all the way down into the leg. I think 125 mm is the correct air-space between the top of the oil and the top of the fork tube.

    For general road riding I'd try 10 wt. I greatly prefer real fork oil to ATF

    The spring doesn't care which end is up. Prissy racer types will put the closer wound bit at the top in the theory that this makes the fork leg lighter and more responsive. Not sure I believe that or believe that they'd be able to tell the difference.

    Then to take advantage of all your hard work be careful in assembling the front end.

    You can find instructions for this here https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwYQ...it?usp=sharing about page 89.


    I think I remembered all the steps in the correct order. But it HAS been a while since I've had to do this. If I've missed anything, the rest of you please jump in and correct it.
  9. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,148
    Location:
    Arlington, Texas
    WOW, Ladder. Hey Dr. E, got your note book handy?

    Congrats on retirement Ladder.:clap Like my dad used to say, "It doesn't cost any more to go first class you just gota come back sooner. :D
  10. Bonnie & Clyde

    Bonnie & Clyde Wishing I was riding RTW

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,135
    Location:
    Gardnerville NV

    Good news Ray! Congratulations! :clap
  11. DualDog

    DualDog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    215
    Location:
    Galesburg, IL
    To Ladder 106.

    Thanks for the detailed info.

    Really appreciate it.
  12. happyclam

    happyclam Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    238
    Location:
    Mary Land
  13. showkey

    showkey Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,094
    Location:
    Wausau
  14. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,624
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    Cory,

    Please do not tell me you made only ONE of those.


    Hear from your Dad. Didn't notice your avitar change at first. What are you doing in NEVADA ?......other then not paying California taxes.
  15. mattj82

    mattj82 n00b

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4
    Hello all...

    I'm the proud owner of an Australian 1989 Transalp. Love the bike, except for the seat! After a few hours my coccyx is agony!

    So my option appear to be Seat Concepts, Corbin, or having a custom seat made... Any input?

    Cheers!

    Matt
  16. Spina

    Spina wannabe motorcyclist

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2011
    Oddometer:
    90
    Location:
    Milano, Italy
    Finally, after almost 2 months, I have the bike back!
    I had to do the license in the shortest time possible to avoid new laws, then snow, then problems at my back and two months because my license was written wrong...

    Now my license is back and the bike is repaired from the CDI problem.
    Now it's time to practice a lot: I noticed that I have some problems about braking that I MUST resolve as soon as possible.
    I really have to learn a lot.
    Then I'll try to do the USB socket mod and an homemade scottoiler!
  17. Rob 110

    Rob 110 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    51
    Location:
    UK, OK?
    racing yesterday, goes well and you can drift it
    not too bad on the enduro sections, but most was rough single track and firebreaks
    [​IMG]

    unfortunately i overcooked it on a special test ending up 12' below the track
    [​IMG]
    marshals came and helped pick it up and i rode another 5 or 6 miles but it was too rough for my left arm, which turns out to be broken radius and ulna bones in forearm
    next 6 weeks in plaster :(
    [​IMG]

    bike is fine apart from cracked xtz 660 tenere front fender
    all my homemade parts are intact and performed well :)
    next event is 10 weeks....
  18. Cruz

    Cruz Lost but laughing.

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    8,523
    Location:
    Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
    A guy in Melbourne did my 87 seat, Cumfy Seats. I don't notice my seat so it must be okay. Quality is fine. The seat off of my bike is below.

    http://www.acmseats.com.au/example-work/honda-dirtbike-seat/80-honda-xl-seat/honda-xlv-transalp-seat

    http://www.acmseats.com.au/

    [​IMG]
  19. GSPD750

    GSPD750 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,559
    Location:
    Calgary, AB
    Ouch! Glad to hear your somewhat ok....and your already looking at the next event. :clap
  20. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,624
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    Cory,

    Tell me you actually posted a photo of a brake adapter for NX650 forks.

    Am I delusional ?? (well, in general, yes.....but I'm referring to this specific case).



    Rob.

    Sorry to hear about the sudden off-road bit. Good job you didn't smack one of those trees to hard. Glad the bike held up. Hope rehab on the arm goes well.