Show us your TransAlp modifications!

Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.

  1. Dekatria

    Dekatria Ad Astra Per Aspera

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    Alright :thumb

    By the bye, your chain looks like it could use a bit of tightening... or is it just to compensate for the extra height/length of the swingarm?
  2. jwb

    jwb Local minimum

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    Nice, I was looking for an AGM battery for the 'Alp yesterday. Strange that Yuasa doesn't spec one for this model.

    Thanks for the tip.
  3. TRBaron

    TRBaron Been here awhile

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    Thats what it'll be.
    when that suspension compresses fully that chain will tighten significantly.
    even with stock setup you want about 50mm of play in the chain else you'll be putting a lot of stress on the output shaft when the suspension compresses.
  4. TransAfrika

    TransAfrika Been here awhile

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    That is the biggest Problem when you want to enhance the ground clearance.
    You could change many things in the suspension but the chain travel area and the slag is the thing that is fix. It would be great when there where an ability to mount and an auto chain tightener, that adjust it for normal drive and be flexible
    when it goes off the road and the suspension goes over all travel range.
    Some tried to fix this with chain rolls to save the swingarm but it is not so easy i think.

    In Germany it is not allowed to melt on the frame so ......
  5. jamie92j

    jamie92j Been here awhile

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    It was pretty slack in that picture!

    I always prefer to run my chain on the slack side

    I carry a tool to tighten it on the trail if required

    The ground clearance isn't increased drastically so the chain doesn't rub more then normal

    I think i can get away with lifting the rear more without major problems
  6. TRBaron

    TRBaron Been here awhile

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    I often wonder if there is a way to design the swingarm mount on the same axis as the output shaft, would eliminate the problem completely.
  7. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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    Yes there is. G450X BMW

    [​IMG]



    So why don't all builders do this since it makes so much sense? Like Rosanna sez..."It's always sumpthin"

    The main problem here is strength vs. width. You'll notice that many off-road bikes - if set up correctly - have their foot pegs right about at the swingarm pivot point.

    Putting the swingarm pivot right at the CS sprocket means some fancy bearings have to be used to provide adequate strength and stiffness in the frame. This can increase the overall width of the machine right at a point where narrow is better.

    It's OK to do this with a narrow engine but when you start getting higher displacement, the cases tend to widen out at the CS sprocket.

    I'm sure there's also a cost and service concern here that I know nothing about.

    Retrofitting this to your TA would cause a major redesign of the suspension linkage system since changing pivot point locations will alter the suspension geometry.
  8. TRBaron

    TRBaron Been here awhile

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    Oh yeah I'd never suggest a retro fit like that, just that there has to be a decent solution for new bikes with an off-road orientation.

    Could be interesting to see what could be done with a pair of thompson couplings [like a CV joint but without the power sapping characteristics] and a shaft drive.
  9. raoulserban

    raoulserban vrrummm

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  10. R_Rick

    R_Rick Been here awhile

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    I pulled apart my front wheel yesterday to get it ready for a respoke. My plan was to take a couple out of each position and mark them so I can match up the correct length / position when my new set arrives. Unfortunately, I was only able to loosen the nipples from one side / position (speedo, outside) and had to take the grinder to the remaining leaving me with a pile of half spokes.

    Can someone fill me in on the size combination? Are the speedo outer the same length as the rotor side outer? Are they the longest? Some other combo?

    Thanks
  11. mgorman

    mgorman Crashing since 1964

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    I have this same centerstand in this photo laying in my garage but doesn't fit. What year is it actually made for? I haven't decided if I am going to try to make it work or not.
  12. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    In the Flea Market 4,280 miles


    [​IMG]
  13. jwb

    jwb Local minimum

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    Wut m8? Amazing.
  14. jwb

    jwb Local minimum

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    Oh, you MAKE them. :clap

    I thought you were saying you found a minter in a flea market.
  15. mikejohn

    mikejohn Long timer

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    If you decide not to use it, what would you ask for it?
  16. mgorman

    mgorman Crashing since 1964

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    Get in touch with me in April, I should be done with a few projects by then and start on the TA.
  17. R_Rick

    R_Rick Been here awhile

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    Looks awesome! What are you using for header paint?
  18. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    These best paint I found has been discontinued, isn't that always the case?

    I tried a Rustoleum hi temp paint but it is way too shiney and dulls eventually to a flat uneven blue-gray color.

    VHT has a good product, the only thing I don't like is it's a bit flat looking but at least it works. Coverage is not the best so you will use a fair amount to cover headers and a muffler. Carefully clean everything that gets painted. Wear latex gloves when you handle it after painting, finger prints really show on this product.
  19. R_Rick

    R_Rick Been here awhile

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    Thanks, Ill look into the VHT. I've sanded some surface rust from mine and in the process took everything down to bare metal. I'm currently trying to find something that will cover it up / stand up to the heat.
  20. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    Rick, I wasn't clear on what I meant by cleaning the surface, make sure there is no oil based residue on the metal, I like to do a final wipe down with naptha before painting, it just needs to be grease and oil free before spraying.